Help get a commuter rolling again...- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Help get a commuter rolling again...

    A coworker rolled this in yesterday, somewhat dejected after a trip to the LBS with it, sounds like they were concerned about safety (liability?) in his quest to get it rolling again on the cheap, and pretty much said he should get a new bike. He said to me, "how come every time I go in a bike shop I feel like I'm dealing with NASA engineers?" He used to commute on it occasionally and would like to get it back to the point where it actually pedals and brakes again. He took a bunch of parts off and did a home repaint job. I think the brakes are the stumper...CB, aren't these similar to your bars? What would he need to buy to get brakes on those bars? I assume he has the rest of the brake parts at home, and that they can be reinstalled, but he's not here today to ask. Any other observations/suggestions welcome... I assured him that some of you folks would certainly not demand a premature burial and would know ways to make it work.
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  2. #2
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  3. #3
    a lazy pedaler
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    I think CB use TT brakes on his bar...this ones:



    but I'm pretty sure he won't be able to use those with the kind of brakes he use (cantis??)

    Perhaps the V-brake version will do it...but I'll look weird....maybe the cross brakes are the way to go.



    if he needs new parts for his derailleurs (I see a 7 speeds on the cassette?) , I think that with a cheap friction shifter ( I remember rodar post about them somewhere here) and a cheap 7 speed Shimano derailleur (Altus? Alivio?)...will do it.

    some maintenance to the hubs will be necessary, I think.

    anyways...I think rodar will be the guy to post here

  4. #4
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    what are the drops? Maybe semi horizontal? Single speed it, save him some cash.

  5. #5
    a lazy pedaler
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    yeah fastale may have a point there....I was assuming he will have a commute with some hills,as you do.

  6. #6
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    The guy that owns the bike lives a lot closer to work and will ride along 2 rivers, so the hills will not be too bad...he said he would be OK with just the front gears, but that won't help because he needs the rear der. to take up the slack, right? I'll report back what he has for usable parts next week & also ask about singlespeed. I think this is the bike he had a bad crash on, got tangled up with his own dog on way to the corner store & arm busted up real bad, then infected around the icky steel bars sticking out of his arm for a while. Would be nice to roll again.

    Thanks Martin & Fastale for your help. Jeffscott, I can loan him the book, so I guess I already saved him $22 + S&H.

  7. #7
    weirdo
    Reputation: rodar y rodar's Avatar
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    The cable pull won`t be hard to match- the brake calipers he has now will work with any "road" lever or most "mtb" levers. The only thing to watch out for along those lines is that if you get a lever for V and disc that doesn`t have a two position pivot thingy so it can also be set for straddle cantis.

    As far as what levers fit the bars, AFAIK, all those bullhorn bars are road diameter (15/16 in). You can measure it with cheap caliper or use a ruler on the very end of the bar to see. If it happens to be 7/8 in, it`ll take mtb levers:
    http://www.sheldonbrown.com/cribsheet-handlebars.html
    Note that those TT, (which I think are normally used with that style bar) levers mount inside the bar. Hopefully the IDs are close enough to some kind of standard that there won`t be any discrepancies. I know that bar end shifters needed to be ground down a bit to fit into my Origin 8 "Gary" bars when I set up like that for a while even though the OD was the same as other drop bars.

    If the guy wants to go SS, he can use the derailler as a tensioner no matter what dropouts he`s got. If he wants shifters on his bars, it`s back to the road/mtb question. Or maybe an old set of stem shifters?

  8. #8
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    Is there a bicycle recycle group/place in your area? There's one in Columbus, In, and I understand it's a national effort to repair bikes inexpensively and keep them rolling of salvage the useable parts and junk the rest. If you have such a resource nearby both parts and expertise may be available. I do my own bike repair and refitting in part because of the 'bike tech/engineer' talk down. As a kid on the farm you fixed it, or it stayed broken.

  9. #9
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    Why can't he just use MTB levers and put them on the horizontal part of the bars. Sure they won't be in his hands all the time but they would be there and they would work.

    I'm not a fan of the through-the-stem cable routing so for brakes I'd recommend investing in some V-brakes. Pricepoint has some Avid Single Digit 5's for $15 right now. Cheap and effective and they'll fit the canti mounts nicely. My personal preference is for the linear travel shimanos but they are probably more expensive. As mentioned by someone else, be sure to get levers for V brakes if you go that route.

    Good thinking BrianMC. We have a bike co-op in our little town that has tools to use and some free parts. Look for something like that. That's probably a 7 speed drivetrain and there should be lots of old matching shifters in people's junk boxes. Before you go doing all that though, check the der hanger to make sure it's straight or can be straightened. If it got wasted in his crash then SS is probably your best option.

    If you want to go SS or front gearing only, I bet you could use any old rear derailleur as a chain tensioner. Find the right position and you can probably make it stay in one place with a piece of wire. Just a nutty idea...I have no idea if it would work.

    It actually sounds like a fun challenge. I love doing stuff like that.

    Good luck and keep us posted.

  10. #10
    weirdo
    Reputation: rodar y rodar's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tweezak
    Why can't he just use MTB levers and put them on the horizontal part of the bars. Sure they won't be in his hands all the time but they would be there and they would work....

    ...Good thinking BrianMC. We have a bike co-op in our little town that has tools to use and some free parts. Look for something like that. That's probably a 7 speed drivetrain and there should be lots of old matching shifters in people's junk boxes.
    It actually sounds like a fun challenge. I love doing stuff like that....

    ...Good luck and keep us posted.

    I would have reminded you that the mtb levers are too big, but now that I think about it, you`re right. Even if they don`t tighten up enough, they could easilly be shimmed. The same for shifters, which would be an even bigger break since that bike probably has no shifter bosses and won`t work easilly with clamp on bosses.

    Yeah, there`s 7-speed stuff out the wazzoo at our local used bike goodies place. The catch is finding them when they`re open- hopefully Xplorer has one and it`s easier to get in than ours. And when going with new stuff, 7-speed is very cheap, too.

    Yeah, it does sound like fun.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tweezak
    Before you go doing all that though, check the der hanger to make sure it's straight or can be straightened. .
    Amazing how you can realign a mildly bent one if you can use wood in bench vise jaws to clamp stay (dont's crush or bend stay) and use a pipe wrench.

    Quote Originally Posted by Tweezak
    If you want to go SS or front gearing only, I bet you could use any old rear derailleur as a chain tensioner. Find the right position and you can probably make it stay in one place....
    I have a 10 speed RD on a seven freewheel until my new 10 speed wheels come in. Using a longer stop screw I forced the narrower range of movement on the pull side (large cog). So limit screws can give some control.

    Cableless or fully extended, the high stop screw stops the cage. So you should be able to get to the second or third cog with a long stop screw before you miss the stop ear. The high stop screw hole might be used to bolt the cage into alignment for a single cog or even be made adjustable so as fitness builds, higher cogs are preselected. A selectable SS. If the RD is not a good shifter or the user hates shifting cogs, this may make some sense. No weight (other than cable and shifter) or friction savings.

  12. #12
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    Thanks everybody...I will let you know how he makes out with the bike.

  13. #13
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    Yes I do use the cane creek 200TT levers that Martin posted. They were something like 10 bucks on pricepoint. I think they could work fine with cantis. I'm using them with 'mountain' bb7's, and they have plenty of throw to work well.

    But that dude from Montana who posted his bike the other day is using full-on road levers on his bullhorn bars...hold on I'll dig up the pic.

    here:



    But based on my experience with the TT levers I wouldn't hesitate to use them with cantis.

    Here are mine. You can see how much lever throw they have... plenty of cable movement for just about any brake I'd think:



    They act as a bar plug so you can compensate for a loose fit by tucking more bar tape overlap in there before you tighten them down. But the plug expands as you tighten, so they should fit most bars with no issues.

    Here's the pricepoint link... $20 now, I think I hit a sale: https://www.pricepoint.com/detail/13...ake-Levers.htm
    Last edited by CommuterBoy; 06-01-2010 at 11:04 AM.
    You have no excuse for driving to work
    (unless you don't have studded tires)
    (no excuse for that either)

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