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  1. #1
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    best place for front light

    i've got a salsa fargo that i commute with. it's got drop bars and i've got my headlight placed on the top of the bars. however it seems the hoods block the light from being seen from the side. i thought maybe place the light lower but there is nowhere else that will work without cables or the front tire casting a shadow on the road. ideally it would be placed right on top of the front fender but the fender is plastic and wouldn't support it. i've got reflective sidewalls on my tires but i was looking for something less passive. thanks.
    I'm never gonna be a Rock Star

  2. #2
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    Your Fargo have a hole drilled through the fork crown? There are several ways to mount a light to/near there. What kind of light (or specifically, mount) do you have?

  3. #3
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    How about mounting the light upside down under the bar? Depending on the light, you may be able to get a helmet mount as well although I find those to be highly annoying.
    The pedals turn, not just the left one, but the right one too.

  4. #4
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    A fork crown mount:



    A front handle bar rack mount:



    Those mounts allow side views even with BarMitts on, but there is a tire shadow.



    And underbar mount gave no tire shadow:



    But the side view of the tested light (on the bars) was blocked by the hoods or bar mitts:



    Mounting to the front of a normal front rack might get the side view and no tire shadow.

  5. #5
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    i'm using a dinotte light that straps to the bars with a rubber ring. i'm sure i can come up with some sort of mount but it needs to be pretty durable as i use the bike for a lot of off-road excursions along with commuting. i thought about getting additional lights just for being more visible from the side.
    I'm never gonna be a Rock Star

  6. #6
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    i like the fork crown mount.
    I'm never gonna be a Rock Star

  7. #7
    since 4/10/2009
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    fork crown FTW

  8. #8
    I'd rather be on my bike
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    coughTURNITUPSIDEDOWNcough
    The pedals turn, not just the left one, but the right one too.

  9. #9
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    You can use a QR mount bolted up to a cut-off IS brake adaptor.

    See Problem Solvers | Fork Crown Light Mount from Repurposed Hardware

    You can use an M5 bolt threaded through the mount to the QR, rather than trying to source a double-ended metric stud. A little ingenuity can go a long way.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
    You can use a QR mount bolted up to a cut-off IS brake adaptor.

    See Problem Solvers | Fork Crown Light Mount from Repurposed Hardware

    You can use an M5 bolt threaded through the mount to the QR, rather than trying to source a double-ended metric stud. A little ingenuity can go a long way.
    This by all means. Us packrats, well............

  11. #11
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    The Cronometro NOB can allow a handlebar mount on the fork blade or head tube.

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  12. #12
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    Helmet mount works as well.

  13. #13
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    There is no replacement for a good helmet light in my opinion. I can't ride at speed (even as slow as I am) on my commute without looking around corners. Much less so on a trail. I also like that you can look directly at cars at an intersection and grab their attention. And, you can look down to the side of the bike path away from oncoming joggers and other bicyclists to be more considerate of their night vision and comfort.

    Fork crown mount is good. Do they make quick release mounts for there? Problem solvers makes skewer and front rack braze on light mounts too. I've run lights on my front fork at the rack braze on and it worked pretty good. However its kind of a safety issue to reach down and adjust the light or turn it off and on while riding when its that close to the front wheel.

    If its really going to be dark both ways I run the amoeba. The little Vis360+ is a solid little light, I use it a lot also. I even ran an urban 700 strapped to my helmet for a couple or three winters until it crapped out. I also use a smaller light on my handlebars mostly just for visibility.

    best place for front light-lv7k1bal.jpg

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by anomad View Post
    There is no replacement for a good helmet light in my opinion. .... I also like that you can look directly at cars at an intersection and grab their attention.
    I agree about the ability to stop drivers from pulling out right in front of you with a helmet light. I would not want it as my only headlight, though. I have a DIY 3 LED headlamp mounted to a QR Slide mount and a SuperFlash Turbo on a DIY Pivot mount to keep it vertical as it has a pretty narrow beam.



    Quote Originally Posted by anomad View Post
    Fork crown mount is good. Do they make quick release mounts for there?
    I adapted two slide mounting bases from handlebar QR mounts to make side my side slide mounts on my fork crown mount. Easily aimed. Yes, I corrected the brake pad mounting:


  15. #15
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    I have a fork crown mount I got from B&M I believe that you can strap a light to. I also have a couple that use a go-pro mount from another site that does 3D printing. I much prefer the fork crown style especially on a commuter and even more so with pogies.

    I have a stem mounted version on my mountain bike and fat bike it sits higher than the fork style but I think it works better on those style of bikes for trails at speed plus it gets your light out in front.
    Mr. Krabs: Is it true, Squidward? Is it hilarious?

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by leeboh View Post
    Helmet mount works as well.
    yup

    can aim it exactly right

    and when you break down viola you can fix the problem way faster

    you can of course have lights any where else.

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc View Post
    I agree about the ability to stop drivers from pulling out right in front of you with a helmet light. I would not want it as my only headlight, though. I have a DIY 3 LED headlamp mounted to a QR Slide mount and a SuperFlash Turbo on a DIY Pivot mount to keep it vertical as it has a pretty narrow beam.





    I adapted two slide mounting bases from handlebar QR mounts to make side my side slide mounts on my fork crown mount. Easily aimed. Yes, I corrected the brake pad mounting:

    And it looks way cool!!! Bonus points. Bet it ain't that clean right now.......

  18. #18
    Yeah!
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    If bars are where you want the light...

    ...start with a k-edge (or knock -off) bar mount. They are all over Amazon:

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    If it doesn't stick out far enough, they have various extensions up to 7.5 inches in length:

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    Then attach a mount that works with your light. Can't help here as you didn't mention your light. Rec-mounts on Amazon makes direct adaptors for a lot of LED bike lights, and there are mounts for regular cameras, gun lights, video cameras, bike computers, cell phones, etc. You can find something that works.

    There are also bar real estate expanders:

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    I will suffer no butt-hurt fools!

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlMarin View Post
    And it looks way cool!!! Bonus points. Bet it ain't that clean right now.......
    Well, as that pic was after first assembly after the frame was powder coated and the fenders were brand new, it is more scratched, dented, paint worn, and as I do not clean it to concours state often, it is a little worse for the wear, but not much:


  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by BrianMc View Post
    I agree about the ability to stop drivers from pulling out right in front of you with a helmet light. I would not want it as my only headlight, though. I have a DIY 3 LED headlamp mounted to a QR Slide mount and a SuperFlash Turbo on a DIY Pivot mount to keep it vertical as it has a pretty narrow beam.





    I adapted two slide mounting bases from handlebar QR mounts to make side my side slide mounts on my fork crown mount. Easily aimed. Yes, I corrected the brake pad mounting:

    The brake pad holders are installed backwards on that bike. The open end should face the rear of the bike.
    GRAVELBIKE.COM - ride everything

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by GRAVELBIKE View Post
    The brake pad holders are installed backwards on that bike. The open end should face the rear of the bike.
    Thanks for the helpful intent. Please read the post. It says I had corrected it to save people from making exactly this sort of comment. Also see post above yours of my pic from yesterday: correctly mounted.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by wschruba View Post
    You can use a QR mount bolted up to a cut-off IS brake adaptor.

    See Problem Solvers | Fork Crown Light Mount from Repurposed Hardware

    You can use an M5 bolt threaded through the mount to the QR, rather than trying to source a double-ended metric stud. A little ingenuity can go a long way.
    i sorta did this. i cut a brake mount down, bolted it to the fork crown and used a stainless steel strap to clamp on to the light. seems durable. there is a little shadow from the fender but it's workable. especially for free.
    I'm never gonna be a Rock Star

  23. #23
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    second [or 10th] on the helmet light - you can move it and that makes you all the more visible to cars and allows you 'light where you look'
    big kudos to the etiquette on averting the lights to oncoming cycling and pedestrian traffic
    those who do this are the good people

  24. #24
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    I'm a fan of moving reflectors for being seen. Used to get tape to stick on the rims. May not look cool, but the human eye will see moving objects first

  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by OlMarin View Post
    I'm a fan of moving reflectors for being seen. Used to get tape to stick on the rims. May not look cool, but the human eye will see moving objects first
    They work well when there is a reflection angle back to the driver. For right angle traffic, my videos show rim tape appearing about 20' (1 second or less at speed), so adds but is not something to bet your life on. So they can tend towards telling the driver he jsut ran over a cyclist.

  26. #26
    Yeah!
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    Use 3M brand DOT conspicuity tape, you will get a reflection from a very wide angle for a hell of a lot more than 20ft. Your only issue will be drivers with poorly aimed or no lights.

    Reflectors should always be an added feature. Lights should approach vehicle lumens (1000lm front, 300-500lm rear), and should be solid, not blinking.
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  27. #27
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    Moving lights/reflectors do grab the attention. If you can possibly stand doing away with clipless pedals, you can either get some with reflectors or add them to your old quills.
    Cheap, easy and works. Need to find a woman like that.............
    Not sure if you can still get shoes with reflective heel tabs. If you can, there's the fit gamble.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flamingtaco View Post
    Use 3M brand DOT conspicuity tape, you will get a reflection from a very wide angle for a hell of a lot more than 20ft.
    The stuff is good at 90 degrees and less fine but there has to be light hitting it. Show me your video. I have it on my Ghetto panniers - nope cross traffic headlights do not light it up for the driver beyond about 20 ft and that is generous! The site the video was hosted on folded and I don't know that I still have a copy. This video illustrates the problem: the low beam headlights don't fan out to the side. The reflectors can only reflect light if there is light. There is no light so no reflections.

    https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=ov1Onx6BFow

  29. #29
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    Center fork crown mount. This is a B&M mount I got on amazon for maybe $9 shipped or $13 shipped.
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  30. #30
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    Light & Motion with the GoPro mount is a pretty sweet setup. May be the closest I get to owning a GoPro. Also do the Vis 360 on my hat and another Vis 180 in the rear.

    best place for front light-20161217_161839.jpg

  31. #31
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    We have very similar setups. I use a Vis 360+ most of the time when I commute and use a light down below if I am doing a ride somewhere at night for an extended period of time. I also have that same mount on my road bike for that exact same reason during later season group rides with a 180 micro on the rear.

    The barfly mount is very clever and makes for a clean setup, I have a 820 up top.
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  32. #32
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    I've got a vancbiker GoPro crown mount headed my way that I'm pretty stoked to try out for my magicshine (works with the GoPro to Magicshine adapters he already sells). The plastic shapeways mount I had crumbled. it moved too much on the rough roads I ride until I tightened it too much for the plastic to handle and the mount cracked. So I asked vancbiker to machine one out of alu for me.

    I supplied him some specs and asked him to make me one, and it's on its way to my doorstep right now. I'll share plenty of pics when I get it installed on my Vaya. I think he's planning to sell them to interested folks, too.

  33. #33
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    My sweeeeet machined aluminum crown mount from @vancbiker. Just came in today, so I mounted it up.

    DSCF2708
    by Nate, on Flickr

  34. #34
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    Well, I left my L&M bar light (and the fully charged battery) outside today, it was -6F to a high of 10F, and about 6F when I left work. Unsurprisingly, the light was noticeably less bright than usual, despite the oversized battery on the way home. I also had a helmet light, the battery for that came inside in my pack, so I still had plenty of light. Conclusion: power is more important than position.

  35. #35
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mr Pink57 View Post

    Center fork crown mount. This is a B&M mount I got on amazon for maybe $9 shipped or $13 shipped.
    Hey Mr Pink,
    Are you using a Fender Flute as well? I'm about to get the flute as well as the B&M mount for my set-up. Any issues with these parts?

  36. #36
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    BTW, anyone seeing this and interested in a crown mount, I have one left. Built this as a custom for Harold, but machined 2 just in case I scrapped one during manufacture. PM for details.

    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    My sweeeeet machined aluminum crown mount from @vancbiker. Just came in today, so I mounted it up.

    DSCF2708
    by Nate, on Flickr
    GoPro adapters for bike lights http://www.pacifier.com/~kevinb/index.html

  37. #37
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    Quote Originally Posted by mtbxplorer View Post
    Well, I left my L&M bar light (and the fully charged battery) outside today, it was -6F to a high of 10F, and about 6F when I left work. Unsurprisingly, the light was noticeably less bright than usual, despite the oversized battery on the way home. I also had a helmet light, the battery for that came inside in my pack, so I still had plenty of light. Conclusion: power is more important than position.
    i have that issue with batteries crapping out in cold weather. i'm thinking of getting a dynamo hub. are the shimano hubs durable enough for off road abuse?
    I'm never gonna be a Rock Star

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by Megashnauzer View Post
    i have that issue with batteries crapping out in cold weather. i'm thinking of getting a dynamo hub. are the shimano hubs durable enough for off road abuse?
    None of their hubs are officially rated for off-road use. If you are going to buy one of their hubs, take care to get one with a steel axle (which shouldn't be a problem, since I don't think they make any disc-brake models with aluminum axles...). I regularly use an Alfine hub on "XC" singletrack, so if that's your idea of off-road, you [should?] be fine. Schmidt is the only company that explicitly endorses their hubs for off-road use, I believe.

    The bigger issue is light production, off-road; as long as you never go slower than 7mph, or so, you'll have usable light, but if you drop below that threshold for some reason, the [better quality] lights will flicker and switch to a low power LED that has no real throw. I'm a big believer in generator-powered lights, but they're not right for every application. Even on the road, I have a backup on my helmet/handlebar, since if something comes up (like a flat tire) I don't want to work in the dark.

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