Thule T2 vs. Saris Cycle-On vs. Yakima Hookup?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Thule T2 vs. Saris Cycle-On vs. Yakima Hookup?

    Help me out here. My LBS are all out of the Thule and the Yakima, and one has the Saris (which is more money). I really like the Sportworks but understand that they are now merged with Thule and no longer exist as Sportworks.

    The rack is going on a Jeep Wrangler with a 33" spare tire, so I need about 16" of clearance between the reciever and the bike tray in order to clear my spare. Unfortunately none of the rack manufacturers list this distance on their websites. I know that the trays on the Sportworks can be moved forward/backward on the mount to allow more clearance so I wondering if the Thule design does as well. The Yak and Saris appear not to from the pics on their respective websites?

    I am going to go take a look at the Saris today, but I'd prefer to spend less that $430 on a rack. My other Saris racks have been decent, but the Thule looks pretty good to me. Any opinions appreciated.

    TIA
    Chris

  2. #2
    kmc
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    Thule T2

    I just bought a Thule T2. Just measured...19.5" from the hole where you insert the bolt on the hitch to the center of the inside bike rack. There is some room to move the racks out more, but Thule does give you guidelines on where to place them.

    Also, consider buying the rack from orsracksdirect.com. Got mine for $290 shipped. Looks like they are still on sale. That was much cheaper than any other place I could find and they were great to deal with.

    FYI...the Sportworks Racks is now the Thule rack...Thule bought out this division.

  3. #3
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    $288 for the T2 at Agees but it was the Sportworks T2 without the movable trays like the Thule T2 has. it works well and I kike it a lot. The Yakima is similar but with fixed trays and no tilt-down capability, only fold up. The Saris may give you the most clearance but it is maybe 20 lbs heavier (pro for some and con for others) and is well built. All are very solid. I use my T2 all the times and even with a 1.25" hitch receiver, it feels and acts very secure back there. I bet the Thule T2 AND the Yakima Hookup are around $288 at Agees. Call and ask- don't just check their website. I ordered a Thule roof rack system from them yesterday and it was 20% off and free shipping.

    See pics from many previous threads discussing this very topic. Do a search and you will find 3-4 long threads wih many pictures.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by igere
    Help me out here. My LBS are all out of the Thule and the Yakima, and one has the Saris (which is more money). I really like the Sportworks but understand that they are now merged with Thule and no longer exist as Sportworks.

    The rack is going on a Jeep Wrangler with a 33" spare tire, so I need about 16" of clearance between the reciever and the bike tray in order to clear my spare. Unfortunately none of the rack manufacturers list this distance on their websites. I know that the trays on the Sportworks can be moved forward/backward on the mount to allow more clearance so I wondering if the Thule design does as well. The Yak and Saris appear not to from the pics on their respective websites?

    I am going to go take a look at the Saris today, but I'd prefer to spend less that $430 on a rack. My other Saris racks have been decent, but the Thule looks pretty good to me. Any opinions appreciated.

    TIA
    Chris
    Ive got the saris Cycle on 4 bike rack and i love it. it has 2 holes on shaft for hitch. On one truck w/o spare on back it slides to second hole. on blazer w/ spare on back it uses first hole(not thrilled about hanging 4 DH bikes w/ 6 less inches of shaft in there but weve done it. Not sure if 2 bike cycle on has 2 holes tho. and i know nothing of the other 2 racks u mentioned.
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  5. #5
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    It's all about the Saris...Much nicer than my old Sportworks (which I killed while 4x4ing with it on...stupid...)

    Tom

  6. #6
    FM
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    There are other options

    definatately look at the sportrack (performance) and swagman XC racks.

    I got the 4-bike performance/sportracks rack, very happy wiht it. $250 out the door for 4 bikes. Check out the "swagman racks? thread for pictures.

  7. #7
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    I was just in the same decision point this week. What sold me on the T2 (the plastic issue have apparently been fixed) was the amount of people using them, and their feedback at the local trailhead.

    Couple of other factors:
    -Wanted the rack to swing or drop out of the way (family access during trips etc.) The T2 drops and the Yakima does not (though their "swing" racks do).

    -Cost - REI has the T2 @ 20% off right now and with last years dividend and a coupon code for members got it down to $200. Saris was too much and I did not see a local dealer with one to "review".
    "Welcome to All Things Scottish, if it's not Scottish, it's craaaapp!! Can I help ye?" - Stuart Rankin

  8. #8
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    Thanks for all the replies. I looked at the Saris today and while the build is very nice, I don't feel likes it worth the extra cost for the amount of time that I will use it. I already have a Saris Bat and Saris Bones rack, but my new FS won't work with either rack. I'm leaning toward the Thule based on all the feeback so far.

    Hey KMC, is that 19.5" from center of the bolt hole to center of the innermost tray? How many inches of adjustment forward/backward would you say there are?

    Also, can the Thule be locked to the vehicle? Biked locked to the rack?

    Chris

  9. #9
    kmc
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    more t2

    Hey Chris -
    Yes, that is center of the bolt hole to center of inside tray. There looks to be some adjustment, but the instructions have guidelines as to where you are supposed to place the bike racks. You might be able to get away with another inch...maybe.

    And yes, you can buy a lock to secure the rack to the vehicle. The bolt goes in one side only on the receiver, so they do make a lock that goes in the other side...just looked into that. You can also lock the bike to the rack via the mechanism that clamps the front wheel down.

    Hope this helps.

    Kurt

    Quote Originally Posted by igere
    Thanks for all the replies. I looked at the Saris today and while the build is very nice, I don't feel likes it worth the extra cost for the amount of time that I will use it. I already have a Saris Bat and Saris Bones rack, but my new FS won't work with either rack. I'm leaning toward the Thule based on all the feeback so far.

    Hey KMC, is that 19.5" from center of the bolt hole to center of the innermost tray? How many inches of adjustment forward/backward would you say there are?

    Also, can the Thule be locked to the vehicle? Biked locked to the rack?

    Chris

  10. #10
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    Just happended on this thread again...

    FYI, here is SoCal, there seems to be a lack of the T2 in-stock. I ordered mine last Saturday and it is expected to be in next week. According to a couple of shops, due to the issues Thule was having with the plastic, they have a backorder going with the new versions. Typical response I got was 1 to 2 weeks.

    Saw a floor version at Sports Chalet, purchased from REI.
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmc
    Hey Chris -
    Yes, that is center of the bolt hole to center of inside tray. There looks to be some adjustment, but the instructions have guidelines as to where you are supposed to place the bike racks. You might be able to get away with another inch...maybe.

    And yes, you can buy a lock to secure the rack to the vehicle. The bolt goes in one side only on the receiver, so they do make a lock that goes in the other side...just looked into that. You can also lock the bike to the rack via the mechanism that clamps the front wheel down.

    Hope this helps.

    Kurt
    Kurt-

    I appreciate the reply. I'm going with the Thule. Still wish I could see it first hand, but from all the reviews and your measurments, I should be fine.

    Thanks again.

    Chris

  12. #12
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    I heard something about still being able to get a bike off that style of rack even with the rack locked, personaly i'd never trust a rack lock, always go with a krypto newyork chain and secure to your hitch. I once had a wrangler with 33's, you might wanna keep in mind that with such a short wheelbase that these heavy style of racks really mess around with the handling. I remember most the sportworks weighed in at about 70lbs. I have a yakima hookup right now, and as for the fit problem, i think hollywood racks makes adapters to extend ur rack out away from the hitch.

  13. #13
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    Someone on the forum had some measurements. I thought they said the hookup stood out more than the other two. I have a wrangler with a hookup. I only have a 29 inch spare. Hitch is a frame mount, not a bumper incorporated hitch. It fits and works well. The pedal on the inside bike has to be in the area of 12 oclock. If not, the bike doesn't sit right on the rack. That's my only fit issues. Handling hasn't been an issue with my wrangler and rack set up.

  14. #14
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    I believe the hookup might be lighter, and handling might not be as big of an issue at stock, but when u add a 4" lift and 33's things change quite a bit

  15. #15
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    Thanks to kmc for posting that link. I ordered the Thule T2 today with 2 locks for the bikes and the lock for the hitch. It came to 340 shipped. Awesome deal. Everywhere else I find this rack it's well over that for just the rack and without shipping. Finally, no more forgotten wheels and slipping off the door sill trying to mount the bike on the roof!
    If the rig made the rider, I'd be pro...

  16. #16
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    Yup, point taken!!!

  17. #17
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    You should be okay if you have the spare in the stock swingout connected to the body. I have my spare on an aftermarket carrier attached to a bumper and cannot fold my t-2 up. I need about half an inch (Darn) more. Oh well, still, it is a hell of a rack.
    Getting a dropper post is like getting a bidet. I didn't know I needed one until I get one and boy, does my ass thank me.

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    Quote Originally Posted by NMPhi767
    You should be okay if you have the spare in the stock swingout connected to the body. I have my spare on an aftermarket carrier attached to a bumper and cannot fold my t-2 up. I need about half an inch (Darn) more. Oh well, still, it is a hell of a rack.

    My spare is mounted on an aftermarket bumper/tire carrier combo (Warn). Fortunately the receiver is incporated into the bumper, which gains me a bit of extra space between the hitch and the spare.

    Crashtdp is correct about the tail wagging the dog with a short wheel base such as the TJ/YJ. I've never noticed any negative handling issues with my my current rack on my lifted Jeep (3.5"), but even a small trailer changes things dramatically. I routinely pull a small offroad military M416 cargo trailer - just have to be extra cautious.

  19. #19
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    [QUOTE=igere]Help me out here. My LBS are all out of the Thule and the Yakima, and one has the Saris (which is more money). I really like the Sportworks but understand that more than enough room on the TULE T2 rack
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmc
    I
    Also, consider buying the rack from orsracksdirect.com. Got mine for $290 shipped. Looks like they are still on sale. That was much cheaper than any other place I could find and.
    290 shipped is hella cheap
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  21. #21
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    please check out my thread, the thulet2 is overrated imo. i have the swagman xc 4 bike carrier and its tuff, light, portable, and cheap in price, i will post a review with pics soon. http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.ph...hlight=swagman

  22. #22
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    Okay, Thule should be here Thursday. Where can I order the locks online? I already have a krypto cable, just need the lock that secures the rack to the hitch. Thanks

  23. #23
    kmc
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    google

    Google this phrase

    Thule Snug-Tite-Lock (STL) for Locking Hitch Bike Racks to the Reciever Hitch

    orsracksdirect has them for $32.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by kmc
    Google this phrase

    Thule Snug-Tite-Lock (STL) for Locking Hitch Bike Racks to the Reciever Hitch

    orsracksdirect has them for $32.
    Hey KMC,

    Thanks once again. You are the man!

  25. #25
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    My T2 showed up today and I installed it this evening. I'm happy to report I have no clearance problems, it fits just fine even with oversized spare. I don't have enough room to fold it all the way up, but I'm not worried about that.

    I'm curious what everyone's thoughts are on the rear wheel mounts? I don't like the amount of play in them even when tightened to the wheel. I wish there was a way to secure them to the platform once they are in position. Other than that, I really like the design and overall quality. Seems like a great rack, glad I got it! I'm looking forward to trying it out this weekend.

    Chris

  26. #26
    mak
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    T2 Rack

    I have a T2 rack and it was great on my Jeep Grand Cherokee.

    I bought a 2006 4runner with factory hitch. The rack extends about a foot from the bumper and I cannot use the vertical anti wobble bolt.


    I was curious if the extension from the vehicle is okay. I want to keep on my 4runner permanently.

    Please send some photos of your t2 rack to ease my mind.

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by mak
    Please send some photos of your t2 rack to ease my mind.
    Here is a side view.
    Attached Images Attached Images

  28. #28
    mak
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    Thanks.

    Thanks for the pic! That is about where mine is located. When I fold it up it has about a foot or so gap between the bumper and the folded rack.

    Do you leave yours on all the time?

  29. #29
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    Jeep Liberty Here...

    Quote Originally Posted by igere
    Thanks for all the replies. I looked at the Saris today and while the build is very nice, I don't feel likes it worth the extra cost for the amount of time that I will use it. I already have a Saris Bat and Saris Bones rack, but my new FS won't work with either rack. I'm leaning toward the Thule based on all the feeback so far.

    Hey KMC, is that 19.5" from center of the bolt hole to center of the innermost tray? How many inches of adjustment forward/backward would you say there are?

    Also, can the Thule be locked to the vehicle? Biked locked to the rack?

    Chris
    Don't know if the dimensions are the same, but I have a liberty with the rear spare and a Curt reciever. I have to take the spare and it's carrier off the car to get the thing to fold. YMMV. You may need a decent extension, too.

    AJ
    "Stop smirking. It's irritating" - Judge Judy

  30. #30
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    Yes, I leave it on all the time even though I get to use it about twice a week only. Too much of a hassle for me to take it off and I think it kind of looks cool! But since I don't have the spare wheel in the back, and have no use for the "extension", it looks a bit freaky to me.

    See my other thread about concerns, fyi: http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=224849

  31. #31
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    $288

    Just bought one from Agees.com - no one in town could even come close to matching the price.

    http://www.agees.com/thule/Thule2.htm

    "Nobody ever told me not to try" - Curious George Soundtrack by Jack Johnson

  32. #32
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    T-2 fan here....very easy on and off and fast too
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  33. #33
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    Anyone have any updated reviews of the Thule T2 vs. Yakima Hookup?

  34. #34
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    Well I've been using my Thule regularly for over a year now and I love it. It's the best rack I've owned, and I never feel like I have to worry about my bikes on the back, even on bumpy roads. It's easy to remove when not in use, and takes no time at all to load the bike. I'd buy it again. Hope that helps.

  35. #35
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    after more than 4 months...

    I can't stand using the wife's roof rack anymore - removing a wheel? C'mon!

    The T2 is THAT good! It takes longer for me to put my riding shoes on than it does to unload the bike and get rolling (under a minute) and it's just as fast to load up after the ride.

    I'm ready to order the 2-bike extension.

    I never remove it from the Pathfinder.

    "Nobody ever told me not to try" - Curious George Soundtrack by Jack Johnson

  36. #36
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    I second the opinion on the T2. Only advantage Saris version might have is that it's a lot lighter, which can be an issue if you take the rack off frequently. The T2 is solid and Thule support has been great. You can actually talk to a human being.

  37. #37
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    Since I modified the T2 rack to let me fold it up and open the swing gate on the Jeep (spare tire interfered with it) I leave in on the Jeep permanently.

    Never had a single problem with it other than losing the odd tire strap (which you can order from Thule directly for a couple bucks).
    Due to a lack of interest, tomorrow has been canceled

  38. #38
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    Question for all you guys:

    Is it just a simple pin that drops through the receiver connecting the rack to the receiver? If so, is there a considerable amount of sway?

  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattP.
    Is it just a simple pin that drops through the receiver connecting the rack to the receiver? If so, is there a considerable amount of sway?
    The T2 uses a threaded hitch pin, tightened correctly there is no noticeable sway.

    Thule make a locking hitch pin as well, you can also buy multiple cores keyed to the same key, so the key that unlocks the hitch pin also unlocks the bike rack arms.
    Due to a lack of interest, tomorrow has been canceled

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyoseki
    The T2 uses a threaded hitch pin, tightened correctly there is no noticeable sway.
    Excellent. My last rack I bought was the same, but when I first got it I made the stupid mistake of drilling out the threads and just buying a bolt/lock washer/nut and dropping that through. Now there is a ton of sway, and I haven't taken the rack off for over 6 months so I should have left the threads there.

    Thanks for the quick reply,
    Matt

  41. #41
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattP.
    Thanks for the quick reply,
    No worries, got nothing better to do, I'm at work watching progress bars
    Due to a lack of interest, tomorrow has been canceled

  42. #42
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    I drilled out the threads

    just enough to fit my Yakima locking bolt and REMOVABLE nut. There is very little sway and the best part is that the sway doesn't matter since the contact points are the tires anyway! My old Yak RimRoc would damage the rims/ spokes when I hit big bumps etc.

    Not anymore!

    Love the T2.

    My only other modification would be to allow for a method of securing the rear tire holder so if in the event the arm on the front tire failed for whatever reason, the back tire would stay put and keep the bike in the front tire holder. I think that if I ever have to do a BIG road trip, I'll just run a nylon strap around the front tire holder as an extra safety measure - but I'm overly cautious anyway.
    "Nobody ever told me not to try" - Curious George Soundtrack by Jack Johnson

  43. #43
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    Just to clarify,

    I;ve heard that the 1.25" version does not come with the threaded bolt hook up system. Can anyone confirm or deny this?

  44. #44
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    Quote Originally Posted by MattP.
    I;ve heard that the 1.25" version does not come with the threaded bolt hook up system. Can anyone confirm or deny this?
    Don't know about that, I would be surprised though, but you definitely can't mount the 2 bike extension on the 1.25" version.
    Due to a lack of interest, tomorrow has been canceled

  45. #45
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kyoseki
    Don't know about that, I would be surprised though, but you definitely can't mount the 2 bike extension on the 1.25" version.
    Haha, yeah I know that, I don't think my little car can handle 4 bikes anyway

  46. #46
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    New question here.

    I was wondering if anyone has had experience with using either a Saris Pro or T2 for four bikes, on the back of a 5th wheel camper. Neither one of the manufacturers recommend using them on a trailer.

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