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Thread: Rack Security

  1. #1
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    Rack Security

    I got myself an expensive bike. Now I am thinking the Saris I got hanging off the back of my Sube is not going to be secure enough. Plus It does not like the fat bars on mountain bikes. My Spec barely fit, my Trek Fuel ex7 is just not fitting.


    So I am looking at the Yakima High Roller. I am wondering about the security of the device. Is there any weak point that makes buying the locks pointless? Are the MightyMounts secure?


    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    It's a cable lock. Anyone motivated well enough will find a way to pry it off the car or cut the lock. I bought some Mighty Mounts for my brother and there's really no way to secure those given they're just held on w/ wing nuts. The next weak point would be your factory rails given some of them can be removed rather easily. Most bike security systems will only slow down even a casual thief. If I recall my old Yakima Copperheads were held on w/ 3 M6 bolts w/ a thermoplastic cover.

    I've gotten away w/ a cable lock, 2 u-locks, and a hitch pin lock to secure my Scott to my Thule Parkway. That said, the Scott cost me as much as a motorcycle so I still don't leave it out anywhere that someone has time to start cutting locks or dismantling my hitch.
    Mountain: Scott Spark 20
    Road: GT GTR Rival

  3. #3
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    The rack itself has some locks on it you can purchase. So are you saying those are faster to cut than a cable lock? Or are you saying those ARE cable locks in some sense?

  4. #4
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    Yakima makes SKS housings that act as a shroud over the nuts that secure the rack to the crossbars. A pair of these is a good deterrent against theft of the rack itself, which has been a problem for some folks according to their posts on these forums.

    <img src="https://www.rackattack.com/dynamicimages/productimages/yakima-accessory-lock-housing.jpg">

    Not bad insurance to protect the $130 investment that's usually on your roof 24/7, but also not foolproof.

    Here is essentially the locking cable that comes with the Highroller. Instead of a loop at one end, it's anchored inside the rack. The SKS lock core you purchase will fit inside the cylindrical head, which snaps on to the sliding chrome-looking doohickie at the looped end of the cable.

    <img src="https://yakima.com/FileRender.aspx?ID=421&ImageSize=Big">

    Even in <a href="https://yakima.com/Product.aspx?Number=8007233">Yakima's description on their website</a>, they plainly state "<i>...scares away <b>recreational</b> thieves.</i>" Truthfully, any hack with a flat screwdriver or even some dull dykes can defeat this lock pretty quickly without raising suspicion.

    And no matter how well secured you bike is, remember it's also pretty easy for someone to grab your $200 brake calipers, your $80 rear derailleur, your $150 seatpost + saddle, etc.

    Like mishap, I only use my locks as a casual deterrent for quick coffee and burrito runs. My level of paranoia doesn't allow me to leave the bikes out-of-sight for much longer than that.
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  5. #5
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    Thats good info, thanks a lot man. So it looks like I need 2 SKS locks for the rack itself, then 2 SKS locks for the bike?

    I only intend to make quick runs too, like sitting in mcdonalds waiting for the rest of the folks to show up while I keep my eye on it.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by dnoyeb
    Thats good info, thanks a lot man. So it looks like I need 2 SKS locks for the rack itself, then 2 SKS locks for the bike?

    I only intend to make quick runs too, like sitting in mcdonalds waiting for the rest of the folks to show up while I keep my eye on it.


    Depends... are you going to use Yakima towers & crossbars, too? Their locking towers will each require a lock core, raising your total to eight!

    So either 4 or 8 SKS cores, plus two of those housing accessory things.
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  7. #7
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    I'm going to use the Mighty Mounts and a High Roller. I guess I can just chain the bike to my roof rack anyway. The locks probably only protect the rack itself. Which is probably a good thing. I ride alone a lot...

  8. #8
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    I'd recommend never leaving your bike and car unattended for long, no matter how they are locked. My dad had someone steal his bike from his locked Yakima roof rack when someone cut through the round bars to bypass the locks.

  9. #9
    XCfosho15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Speedub.Nate
    Yakima makes SKS housings that act as a shroud over the nuts that secure the rack to the crossbars. A pair of these is a good deterrent against theft of the rack itself, which has been a problem for some folks according to their posts on these forums.
    I think there are only about 10 different keys for those things, so a real bike thief could just carry around a set with him. Those are probably your best bet, though.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by XCfosho15
    I think there are only about 10 different keys for those things, so a real bike thief could just carry around a set with him. Those are probably your best bet, though.
    True... that, or a flat-bladed screwdriver. But you're right -- short of welding the suckers to your vehicle's roof, there's not much more that can be done.
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  11. #11
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    Don't waste your money on the Mighty Mount Locks... In fact are you sure on the High Roller on factory roof rack crossbars??? The mount had a ton of movement on my full blown Yakima setup... enough that I dumped it and went back to steelheads.

    Either way the only good solution is a good homeowners policy... that and never letting the vehicle leave sight. You're rolling the dice any time you're putting your bike on the car regardless.

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    Something for the roof instead of a Thule Otride 561? - and available in the UK?

    Can I join in. I am desperate for some advice on front fork roof mounted racks. I had a Thule Velo Vise pro which I know get pretty poor reviews but was snapped in half to steal the bike from a few months back, was actually pretty good I thought.

    A have a new bike so went on line to buy a new one but the design has changed. the velo vise has been replaced by the Thule Outride 561 and I assumed it would be even better but the lock is not at all flush now. Although I accept that the locking is a deterrent rather than security (I've learnt that the hard way), this one looks really easy to break into. I may be daft but it even looks like I just need to undo the screw to release all the tension in the locking device!

    I nreally want to get 2 new roof mounted cycle carriers that are reliable and where the lock would need picking or some pretty serious force to get open. Enough to leave the bikes on the car at a campsite for instance.

    can you help?

    N.B. If you are still thinking a second hand velo vise could be a good buy. My other one has since failed for the same reason that most reviewers state!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountain komodo
    ...the Thule Outride ... lock is not at all flush now. Although I accept that the locking is a deterrent rather than security (I've learnt that the hard way), this one looks really easy to break into...

    I nreally want to get 2 new roof mounted cycle carriers that are reliable and where the lock would need picking or some pretty serious force to get open. Enough to leave the bikes on the car at a campsite for instance.
    Do yourself a favor: get the Outride, expecting it is simple-easy to get into, and you'll stop leaving your bikes unattended.

    At a campsite? Are you serious? In that situation, I'd feel comfortable leaving the bikes on the roof overnight, provided I'm right there in a tent AND I've got a pretty secure cable lock snaked through everything. But with just a stock locking core? No deal! And plan to disappear on a day hike? Forget it! Bikes locked inside the car, under a blanket!

    I'm telling you, bikes left unattended on cars are shining targets, and the more deserted the location, the easier it is for the thief to jump on 'em.
    speedub.nate
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  14. #14
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    I grew up in the inner city and know of more stolen bikes than I can count. I would never leave my bike unattended. I enough locking to stop someone from just hoping on and riding the bike away. Also, I'd like it to be a pain to cut with a power saw or something.

    You know what would be nice, a 50lb frame boot


    I am getting the mighty mounts because they should work and are relatively cheap. If the thing gets shaky, I'll upgrade to the Yakima Cross bar. Just wasn't ready to shell out that much yet. Maybe with my Tax boost thingy.

  15. #15
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    Thanks for the responses, have either of you heard Altera Giro roof racks?

  16. #16
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    I got the mighty mounts and the High Roller. I am only using the one lock that comes with the rack. When its mounted to the car, I lock the bike to the rack. When the bike is not on the rack, I lock the rack to the car crossbar. Thats good enouogh for now. I do need a way to lock the rack to the car when the bike is locked to the rack. Thats next on the list. Also, I wonder if I need to lube this think some way to keep the lock working?

    P.S. I wish they would have put some coating on the lock because its scratching up my roof when I put it on and off...

  17. #17
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    Hiya, just For your info, I got the Thule fork mounted roof racks. Very stable at speed but the lock is just to stop the ratchet arm springing open really. It's certainly not a lock that any kid couldn't force open with just a screwdriver and lock the bike to the roof rack with a big chunky lock but as others have said; It may prevent the petty thiref but leaving it in one place for long will attract anyone with a hacksaw to easily cut through the roof bars. Cheers

  18. #18
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    If anyone wants it bad enough they'll take it or even your vehicle. I was told by number of people that this is the one to get: http://www.cyclestuffusa.com/index.a...D&ProdID=12406

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