Just got a roof rack for my Mazda 3, have some questions.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Just got a roof rack for my Mazda 3, have some questions.

    I used, my new rack for the first time today and just had a few questions. I noticed my bike wobbling a little while driving, it didn't look like anything too serious. But I just want to be sure. Should the bike be perfectly stiff? For the most part I was traveling at speeds between 45-55 mph, just some easy winding roads. Also, is there anything else I should be cautious about or look out for?

    I know alot of this sounds kinda obvious, but this is actually the first time I've ever used a roof rack, thanks.

    And some pics:


  2. #2
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    I wouldn't worry about it. Worse case is that when you get to the trail head, your bike won't be there on top

  3. #3

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    Yeah, they tend to do that. It's just the cumulative flex in all the members you're seeing.

    If you want to minimize it, use a strap to tighten the frame down a bit to the rack. In fact, I use one on my hitch rack to give a bit of security in case something fails so I have a few extra seconds to save everything. The strap also reduces the swaying when I'm driving at around 90mph on the Autobahn.

    Those straps are pretty cheap- something like $5 a pair from Wally World. Put one over the top tube of the bike, or over the stem and run it down to the tray. There might still be some flex about the carrier to tray interface, however.

  4. #4
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    What kind of rack do you have? Fork mount racks are usually pretty rigid. There is usually a little more movement with upright mounts.

    I assume that the loadbars are attached well and do not move at all.

  5. #5
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    Yeah, everything seems tightned down pretty good. In fact, when testing to see how tight they were, I actually rocked the car without the bars moving any... so yeah. I think I'll probably get some straps if I decide to take my bike any further... most of the trails I ride are about a 10 min. drive from the house.

  6. #6

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    Quote Originally Posted by speed_bump
    What kind of rack do you have? Fork mount racks are usually pretty rigid. There is usually a little more movement with upright mounts.

    I assume that the loadbars are attached well and do not move at all.
    I don't know if you were asking me or the OP. I don't have a fork mount, and it's not practical for me, since we have 20mm forks. I use the p21 model of these, not that it really applies in this thread. My inclusion was just incidental:

    http://www.uebler.com/fahrrad/pvpro-15600.htm

  7. #7
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    I found the Thule fork mount tray to be pretty flexy as well... It's only joined to the load bars with one bolt at each, so it's not good with lateral loads. It never gave me a problem but always miffed me.

    I now use the Inno racks universal trays. These attach with 2 metal bars which are bolted around the load bars. This gives 2 contact points at each bar and less wobble.
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  8. #8
    Lone Wolf McQuade
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    [QUOTE=ZeroNine3]I Also, is there anything else I should be cautious about or look out for?

    pulling into your garage
    drive thru's
    tree branches

    I'm sure ther's lots of stories out there!

    Matt
    I should be out riding....

  9. #9
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    I do not think a liitle movement is a bad thing. If there was none I would be more fearful it would break since there would be no absorption, just hold hol hold and then fail.

    sure an mechanical engineer or material scientist could explain allot better, or totally debunk what I said.

  10. #10
    Ride, Sleep, Work
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    [QUOTE=beagledadi]
    Quote Originally Posted by ZeroNine3
    I Also, is there anything else I should be cautious about or look out for?

    pulling into your garage
    drive thru's
    tree branches

    I'm sure ther's lots of stories out there!

    Matt
    Matt,
    The garage does a lot of damage to the top of a Mazda3, I drove mine into the garage on Friday.
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  11. #11

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    How bad was the car damaged?

  12. #12
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    A deep gouge ~ 2 inches long in the roof and nice dents above all four doors. So, about $3500.00 in damage according to the insurance adjuster. OUCH!!!
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  13. #13
    Lone Wolf McQuade
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelW
    A deep gouge ~ 2 inches long in the roof and nice dents above all four doors. So, about $3500.00 in damage according to the insurance adjuster. OUCH!!!
    ......and the bike damage?
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    I should be out riding....

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by MichaelW
    A deep gouge ~ 2 inches long in the roof and nice dents above all four doors. So, about $3500.00 in damage according to the insurance adjuster. OUCH!!!
    Ouch! I garaged my 3, but managed to destroy only the bike and Thule bike tray. I feel for you nonetheless.
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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Frs1661
    Ouch! I garaged my 3, but managed to destroy only the bike and Thule bike tray. I feel for you nonetheless.

    I guess I feel better, but I did it again. I sold my rack and bought a hitch. I guess I smoked myself stupid twice.
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  16. #16
    Tulsa
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    I bought a yakima fork mount for mine but watching the shadow of my bike moving around drove me crazy

    I bought a cheap inno one with the arm that grabs the tube and it's verrr secure now. I'll buy another.
    wherever you go, there you are

  17. #17
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    I have had Thule fork mounts for 9 years. The bigger bike occasionally wobbles a little on the rack but the small bikes stay solid. I do occasionally tighten all the bolts since they do work loose, especially when new. Also two of my velovise mounts have a chunk cut out of the tray lip for brake caliper clearance but are still solid. The one part of my setup that vibrates regularly are the Yakima wheel holders, since for some reason the QR skewer on the wheel in the lefthand one always works loose.
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  18. #18
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    the wobble you are getting is from using the aero bars with the xadapt 9 to mount the peleton bike rack.
    the bike rack itself is rock solid, with only a little bit of normal play, but thule uses a large plate in the rear to attach the bike tray to the rear bar, and in my opinion this is one of their worst designs. you can never seem to get them tight enough. overtightening will only break the plastic handle
    we sell both aero bars and standard thule rectangular bars, and 98% of the time we sell their standard system especially with uprights like the sidearm.
    either way, i wouldn't worry too much about the wobble...

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by cracksandracks.com
    the wobble you are getting is from using the aero bars with the xadapt 9 to mount the peleton bike rack.
    the bike rack itself is rock solid, with only a little bit of normal play, but thule uses a large plate in the rear to attach the bike tray to the rear bar, and in my opinion this is one of their worst designs. you can never seem to get them tight enough. overtightening will only break the plastic handle
    we sell both aero bars and standard thule rectangular bars, and 98% of the time we sell their standard system especially with uprights like the sidearm.
    either way, i wouldn't worry too much about the wobble...

    since y'all are bringing this back up... haha... i actually broke my plastic handle within the first two weeks or so, so now i have nuts tightened down on the bolt... which brings me to another question: has anyone ever drilled a hole into the bike rack itself and tried securing it in the same manner as the front? i don't know how much more secure it'd be then having that stupid rear plate though...

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