How easy to remove the highroller?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    How easy to remove the highroller?

    How easy is it to remove the highroller when I finish my trip? and reinstall?

    The frontloader looks much easier! but I read many times the highroller is more stable. so which to get?

    I would have to install and remove two of them whenever I want to go on a trip, just wondering how much of a chore it would be.

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoorCyclist
    How easy is it to remove the highroller when I finish my trip? and reinstall?

    The frontloader looks much easier! but I read many times the highroller is more stable. so which to get?

    I would have to install and remove two of them whenever I want to go on a trip, just wondering how much of a chore it would be.
    Both bike mounts allow for easy, and quick, installation and removal.

    > The HighRoller is mounted to the cross-bars via three cross-bar snap-arounds, bolts, and thumb-wheel nuts/hex-key.

    > The FrontLoader is mounted to the cross-bars using a front clamp and a rear clamp secured by a built-in T-bolt.

    > Both racks can be locked to the cross-bars using Yakima's SKS Lock Cores.

    > No tools are needed to install or remove either bike mount.


    To remove the HighRoller.
    1. Slightly raise the wheel hoops (they will self-hold their position).
    2. Snap-off and remove the left and right aerodynamic baseplate covers.
    3. Unscrew the front left and right thumbwheels.
    4. Unscrew the rear hex-key nut and, if fitted, the SKS Accessory Lock Housing.
    5. Replace baseplate covers, lower wheel hoops and remove HighRoller from cross-bars.
    6. Remove the three cross-bar snap-arounds.


    To remove the FrontLoader:
    1. Loosen the front clamp.
    2. Rotate rear clamp T-bolt.
    3. Loosen the rear clamp.
    4. Remove FrontLoader from cross-bars.


    These are the main differences between the HighRoller and FrontLoader:

    > The HighRoller is more aerodynamic (quieter).

    > The HighRoller features an automotive finish.

    > The HighRoller has an extra strong wheel tray for an extra stable ride and a greater maximum weight capacity.

    > The HighRoller's rear wheel strap can be ratcheted/released from either side, while the FrontLoader is one sided (Noteworthy when installing more than one roof-top bike mount).

    > Out of the box, the HighRoller can be mounted on round bars and Thule square bars (Other shaped bars require the use of Yakima's Universal MightyMounts).

    > Out of the box, the FrontLoader can be mounted on round, square, or factory crossbars, without the use of MightyMounts.

    > When installing/removing the FrontLoader, Yakima warns users to use caution and avoid damaging the vehicles roof finish (via the open jaws of the front and rear cross-bar clamps).

    > To lock the bike mount to the cross-bars (without using the built-in cable lock), the HighRoller requires the purchase of the SKS Accessory Lock Housing ($15), while the FrontLoader does not.

    > The HighRoller is typically $20 more than the FrontLoader.

    > The HighRoller wheel size is adjusted via a single locking lever, while the FrontLoader uses two independent locking levers.

    > The HighRoller's maximum bike weight capacity is 50lbs.

    > The FrontLoader's maximum bike weight capacity is 40lbs.


    Hope this helps.
    Last edited by Bambi19; 09-26-2010 at 04:03 AM.

  3. #3
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    That was highly helpful, thanks
    Do I need 2 SKS core per highroller, I believe one to lock to rack and one for the cable?
    1 SKS core fore frontloader ?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoorCyclist
    That was highly helpful, thanks
    Do I need 2 SKS core per highroller, I believe one to lock to rack and one for the cable?
    1 SKS core fore frontloader ?
    Yes and no. 2 SKS Lock Cores each are needed for both the HighRoller and the FrontLoader - 1 for the integrated locking cable and 1 for the Lock Housing.

    The difference is that while both bike mounts have an integrated locking cable, the FrontLoader is fitted with an integrated Lock Housing - while the HighRoller does not (The HighRoller requires the separate purchase of a $17 Accessory Lock Housing).


    Yakima SKS Lock Cores are sold in packs of 2, 4, 6, 8, 10, and 12.

    > 4 Lock Cores are needed to lock the Q-Towers

    > The integrated cable lock requires 1 Lock Core. This cable can be used to lock the bike to the HighRoller, or to lock the HighRoller to the cross-bar.

    > The HighRoller can be independently locked to the cross-bar using 1 SKS Accessory Lock Housing AND 1 Lock Core. The Accessory Lock Housing is mounted to the HighRoller's rear mounting bolt and cross-bar snap-around.

    > When not transporting a bike, the HighRoller and FrontLoader can then be locked to the cross-bars via the Lock Housing AND the integrated cable.


    > In summary, you may need the following:

    >> 4 Lock Cores for the Q-Towers.
    >> 2 Lock Cores per HighRoller or FrontLoader (1 for the integrated cable and 1 for the Lock Housing)
    >> 1 SKS Accessory Lock Housing per HighRoller.

    *** A useful tip when using the integrated locking cable: Turning the key into the "Lock" position before locking the cable to the bike, or rack, allows you to then simply "snap" the lock into place.

    Yakima SKS Accessory Lock Housing:

    Integrated cable used to lock bike:

  5. #5
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    Very useful info from Bambi.

    I install my HighRoller on the roof as needed.* It takes me ~10 minutes to install the crossbars and both HighRollers. Taking all of them off is about half the time or maybe 5 minutes.

    I don't leave my cross bars on the car. Rather, I keep the small short base mounts in place on my rack rails, and use covers over them. When I want to install the crossbars, I just take off the base covers and snap the cross bars into place. Then the HighRoller goes on with three snap-on clamps onto the rails, and then three thumb screw knobs to tighten down on the clamps.

    The hardest thing on the install is getting the aerodynamic covers in place. You need to have the arm lifted up a little, and then slide and twist the cover into place just right to get it to clip into place properly. It takes me a while to get each of the four covers (two per HighRoller) clipped into place properly.

    *I usually use my hitch rack for up four bikes. I only use the Highroller on the roof when I'm carrying five or six bikers and their gear in my Taurus X crossover.
    It's not slow, it's doing more MTB time.

  6. #6
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    I am leaning towards the highroller,
    I do have a second car I want to get factory cross bars and hopefully swap the bike carrier over, I called Yakima and they told me when adding the mighty mounts everything will be 2" higher, and strongly suggest I look into the frontloader instead.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BigLarry
    Very useful info from Bambi.

    I install my HighRoller on the roof as needed.* It takes me ~10 minutes to install the crossbars and both HighRollers. Taking all of them off is about half the time or maybe 5 minutes.

    I don't leave my cross bars on the car. Rather, I keep the small short base mounts in place on my rack rails, and use covers over them. When I want to install the crossbars, I just take off the base covers and snap the cross bars into place. Then the HighRoller goes on with three snap-on clamps onto the rails, and then three thumb screw knobs to tighten down on the clamps.

    The hardest thing on the install is getting the aerodynamic covers in place. You need to have the arm lifted up a little, and then slide and twist the cover into place just right to get it to clip into place properly. It takes me a while to get each of the four covers (two per HighRoller) clipped into place properly.

    *I usually use my hitch rack for up four bikes. I only use the Highroller on the roof when I'm carrying five or six bikers and their gear in my Taurus X crossover.

    Like you, I found that lifting the wheel hoops allows for easy removal and installation of the aerodynamic baseplate covers, as the wheelhoops are then allowed to clear the channel in the baseplate cover.

    Given that there are three contact/clip points where the aerodynamic baseplate cover connects with the baseplate (front end clip, middle peg, rear end clip), I've found that the key to easy baseplate cover reinstallation is to make certain the middle peg of the baseplate cover is lined up/inserted into the corresponding opening in the HighRoller baseplate.

    This should then allow for the quick and easy reinstallation of the aerodynamic baseplate cover, securely clipped-in at all three of the baseplate contact points.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by PoorCyclist
    I am leaning towards the highroller,
    I do have a second car I want to get factory cross bars and hopefully swap the bike carrier over, I called Yakima and they told me when adding the mighty mounts everything will be 2" higher, and strongly suggest I look into the frontloader instead.
    I believe what you were told about the 2" height increase caused by the combination of the HighRoller with MightyMounts is incorrect.

    There is no appreciable rack height difference between the use of MightyMounts (for factory cross-bars) vs. the included cross-bar snap-arounds (for round & square cross-bars).

    It sounds as if the person you spoke to, was mistakenly visualizing the Vertical MightyMounts which is designed specifically for use with snow-sport racks.


    Were there any other reasons why the person you spoke to recommended the FrontLoader over the HighRoller for your application?


    Yakima offers two types of MightyMounts for use with factory car rack systems:

    > Horizontal MightyMounts: For bike racks

    > Vertical MightyMounts: For multi-sport snow racks


    The Horizontal MightyMount for bike racks:

    The Vertical MightyMounts for snow sport racks:



    You can confirm, and view, the HighRoller Installation Instructions here (Instructions for MightyMount users is STEP 6):

    > http://assets.yakima.com/resource/pr...e/instructions


    Lastly, to illustrate the ride height of each system - compare the images of bikes mounted on the HighRoller and FrontLoader:

    Yakima HighRoller:

    Yakima FrontLoader:


    I hope this helps.

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