Heres how I haul it.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Heres how I haul it.

    I'll share how I haul my bike around I noticed alot of you don't like to remove your wheels, or drill holes but I don't care either way my truck is perpose built and is beat on every day.
    I have a roll bar so it takes good measuring to get the tire carrier to work but because of the way I mounted it I can lock both the wheel and the bike to the bed of the truck.







    Lifes Short, Ride naked!!

  2. #2
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    thats pretty much what I did too
    seems to work pretty well for me.
    07 Spec. FSR XC
    08 Gary Fisher HiFi

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ranger_mclaren
    ...but I don't care either way my truck is perpose built and is beat on every day.
    ....
    Props for using a truck properly! Trucks are meant to be beaten up.

    In my old truck, I had my fork mounts screwed to a piece of 2x4. The front tires were held up against the bed via bungee cords.

  4. #4
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    Thanks!
    Lifes Short, Ride naked!!

  5. #5
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    I put mine on the rollbar. Then I could haul more stuff in back.

  6. #6
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    I love 1st gen Ford Rangers. My first car was an '86 Bronco II (same as a Ranger, but without a bed).

    Glad to see it being used.
    Too many bicycles to list...

  7. #7
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    Trust me dude I know a ton of crap about RBVs (ranger base vehicles) I'm a member of 8 ranger clubs and 3 web sites. I know what a B2 is. The first gens are my favorite as well but they have the weak dana 28 front with a 7.5 rear so i'm currently switching to a dana 35 and a 8.8 rear from a explorer. I'm also planin a 4.0 swap.
    Lifes Short, Ride naked!!

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by ranger_mclaren
    Trust me dude I know a ton of crap about RBVs (ranger base vehicles) I'm a member of 8 ranger clubs and 3 web sites. I know what a B2 is. The first gens are my favorite as well but they have the weak dana 28 front with a 7.5 rear so i'm currently switching to a dana 35 and a 8.8 rear from a explorer. I'm also planin a 4.0 swap.
    Minus the drive-shaft mods, bolting in a D35 is easy. As for the 8.8" rear, be sure and get a 31 spline from the Explorer. Sure, you'll have to move the spring perches, but the extra strength and selection of lockers and LSDs is worth it compared to the 28 spline out of a Ranger.
    Too many bicycles to list...

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tornadom
    Minus the drive-shaft mods, bolting in a D35 is easy. As for the 8.8" rear, be sure and get a 31 spline from the Explorer. Sure, you'll have to move the spring perches, but the extra strength and selection of lockers and LSDs is worth it compared to the 28 spline out of a Ranger.

    Yea I've actually been talking to some guys about the rear, for about $200 I can get a FX4 level2 rear off an ranger it's 8.8 31 spline LSD with 4:10s but I'd really like rear disc so i'd half to get the rear from the explorer with a 5.0 not the 4.0 one that I have. But as it looks with my budget I already have a complete explorer so I stuck with what I got for now. I honestly liked to see dana 44s or 60s in the future and a V8 swap.
    Lifes Short, Ride naked!!

  10. #10
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    If you grab an 8.8" with rear discs, try and grab the proportioning valve and master cylinder from the same vehicle. That will make for a seriously nice setup in a Ranger.

    If you can find an FX4-L2 rear end for cheap, I would go that route. While rear discs would be nice, a Torsen LSD and factory 4.10s would be even better.

    I'm kind of putting together a rear end for my vehicle right now (1990 Toyota 4Runner). My plan is to find a Toyota e-locker from a newer Tacoma or 4Runner and install it in my axle. There is a little bit of work to be done to it, and I will need to wire it differently than the factory does so I have use of it at-will (the factory wiring/brain limits use of the locker to 4--lo at speeds below 5mph). I already have factory 4.56 gears, so I'm good there.
    Too many bicycles to list...

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tornadom
    If you grab an 8.8" with rear discs, try and grab the proportioning valve and master cylinder from the same vehicle. That will make for a seriously nice setup in a Ranger.

    If you can find an FX4-L2 rear end for cheap, I would go that route. While rear discs would be nice, a Torsen LSD and factory 4.10s would be even better.

    I'm kind of putting together a rear end for my vehicle right now (1990 Toyota 4Runner). My plan is to find a Toyota e-locker from a newer Tacoma or 4Runner and install it in my axle. There is a little bit of work to be done to it, and I will need to wire it differently than the factory does so I have use of it at-will (the factory wiring/brain limits use of the locker to 4--lo at speeds below 5mph). I already have factory 4.56 gears, so I'm good there.
    Wow I've never seen a locker like that before, Don't know much about toytas' thuo. You otta look into detroit locker, LockRight or a selectable locker all are good for daily driving and can use at-speeds and if you just use the 4runner as a trail truck you could always weld the spiders. Although I really woudn't recomend that.
    Lifes Short, Ride naked!!

  12. #12
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    I had a Detroit in one of my previous vehicles. I do a lot of driving on ice in the winter time, and the Detroit is designed to lock both axles together under power, thus making it very scary coming out of a corner in wet conditions. The Lock-Right is basically the same design I think.

    Toyota's E-locker is very similar to Eaton's E-locker and other selectable lockers. It is fully open until you push a button, then it is like having a spool or welded gears. The ability to run it open on the street is a major plus. Not to mention the lockers tend to show up in wrecking yards from time to time on crashed trucks and are available for cheap. The only flaw I can find in the design is Toyota's computer that won't let you lock the differential unless you are crawling along in 4-lo, but that can easily be overcome when I wire it up.
    Too many bicycles to list...

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