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  1. #3601
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skyking1231 View Post
    here is what i used or using at the moment. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    you can sometimes find these at a local hardware store... I found one...had to order few more on ebay. these work with the existing bolt...BUT...i wanted a little more bolt sticking out...so went with a 4 1/2 inch rather than 4 inch. the knobs are thick enough that the extra bolt is still recessed into the knob. I am waiting on a T handle style knob that has a built in Nylock nut. will try those....but the current knobs seemed to be holding really well...not sure if the rubber washer is needed or not. the rubber washer is really just to keep the whole thing from coming loose when no bike installed....with bike there is enough pressure to keep things inplace...(at least the bolt and bowties). the bolt as you probably know is 5/16 -18...Ace hardware has smaller knobs...but the nut inside is recessed deeper inside the knob which will not work with a 4 inch bolt.

    also locating a 4 1/2 bolt locallly was impossible...plenty of 4 inch and 5 inch...but no 4 1/2. i got SS ones on ebay 4 1/2. or you can get a 5 inch...and cut down to size.
    Awesome. Thanks.
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  2. #3602
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    Just installed the EZ pull for the two racks. I was gonna make one which i could have....but didn't want to invest the time and energy....

    anyhow...for those that are wondering.

    You can easily switch between two racks and single with the EZ pull installed.

    all that is needed is unscrewing the two bolts that hold the 'add-on' on. (which you need to do anyway) and then loosen the two bolts on the handle that secure the handle rods to the bar. enough to slide the rods out....then retighten the bolts. easy. the handle stays on the add-on section.

    not sure about 3 oe 4 rack setups.

    just FYI

  3. #3603
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    Ordering my 1up rack this week mainly cause of it's ability to fold up for apartment living and reputation for durability. Are their locks, wheel or hitch worth it? I'm getting the 1-1/4 1 bike rack to start and then will probably get 1 more tray in the future. I'm not sure if a padlock/cable or block/cable combo would be a better option.

  4. #3604
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    I bought their lock, and I like it very hard to get in there even with the tool, for $20 not bad. My rack is on 90% of the time.
    Quote Originally Posted by Laekon View Post
    Ordering my 1up rack this week mainly cause of it's ability to fold up for apartment living and reputation for durability. Are their locks, wheel or hitch worth it? I'm getting the 1-1/4 1 bike rack to start and then will probably get 1 more tray in the future. I'm not sure if a padlock/cable or block/cable combo would be a better option.
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  5. #3605
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    There's a lot about bike locks and security scattered across mtbr. What you need depends on where you live and how secure you want to be. Bike cables can be easily cut, as can the aluminum 1Up support arms (with a battery powered tool); both are good for modest security situations.

  6. #3606
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    Just got my new single bike quick rack. Love the build quality. Having trouble with the black lever though. Doesnít seem to pull smoothly. It pulls somewhat eccentric and therefore catches on the grooves. Anyone else have this issue?

  7. #3607
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaeha View Post
    Just got my new single bike quick rack. Love the build quality. Having trouble with the black lever though. Doesnít seem to pull smoothly. It pulls somewhat eccentric and therefore catches on the grooves. Anyone else have this issue?
    Yeah, it take a little getting use to. Make sure you're pulling it right at the middle so both sides slide out evenly. I used to have that issue but with some practice and muscle memory it's no problem now.
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  8. #3608
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    same here....annoying at first. make sure the black cup thingy is not all the way out.

    also relieve some of the tension/weight off the bar

  9. #3609
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    After you use it for a while it will no be as sticky.

  10. #3610
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    I agree with the above. Also, keep an eye out to make sure that the bar engages fully in the notches on both sides when you change positions.

  11. #3611
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    How "tight" do you guys clamp the wheels down with your 1-up? I'm always concerned its not tight enough. Also, I've found sometimes I have to press the releases down hard and push the holders down to relieve pressure on the tires for it to open. Assume I'm putting too much pressure on!

    Note I have the heavy duty version 2 and also the +2 add on that I;ve only used a few times. I love the rack.

    Thanks!

  12. #3612
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    I tighten with modest pressure; you don't need to or want to use a lot of force. As you noticed, doing so makes the releases harder to use. Just tight enough so the tire does not slop around.

  13. #3613
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    Here's an easy trick to release the pressure. When you're about the release, apply pressure to the top of the arm towards the center of the bike (as if you're making it tighter). That relieves the pressure off the release lever and makes it easy to lift up to release the arm.
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  14. #3614
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    Is it really secure?

    Whatís to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?

  15. #3615
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newbikeman View Post
    Whatís to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?
    Absolutely nothing, except once a human gets up to about 9mph running speed, the act of multi-tasking becomes more challenging. But when you look at this from a societal perspective, crime really does pay and yet we have far less crime then we should? Itís a mystery of sorts...

    I am going to start a new thread for all bike racks that asks others to share their stolen bike rack experiences, or their stolen bikes from their bike rack experiences. I will go out on a limb here and predict that 99% of the 1UP thefts will belong to people with new MTBR accounts.

    From my own experience with an old Yakima roof rack that I had from 2004 - 2015, I recall there being a brief spike in reported roof rack thefts when I lived in SoCal, as someone was going around and prying them off roofs. The solution was a huge spike in the sale of convertibles to new car buyers.






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  16. #3616
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newbikeman View Post
    Whatís to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?
    If someone happens to be walking around with a set of tools looking to steal a rack and/or a bike attached to it then there is absolutely nothing to stop them. This rack isn't theft proof nor does the manufacture claim it is theft proof. The main function of that rack, and most other racks, is to transport your bike. Any theft deterrent device you use is just there to keep an honest man honest by making it difficult (not impossible) for them to take it. There is always a risk of bike theft when it is on a rack but that's a risk that millions of people assume when they decide to transport their bikes that way. If you don't want to take that risk then get a vehicle big enough where you can store your bike(s) inside and out of sight of would be thieves.
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  17. #3617
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newbikeman View Post
    Whatís to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?
    I think you need the 1up tool to that, no?

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  18. #3618
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newbikeman View Post
    Whatís to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?
    this is where you would run a cable trough bike and hitch. but...like mentoned, not very hard to cut through cable. I don't leave my unattended on rack for too long...so no need for locks.

  19. #3619
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    People used to steal custom wheels off cars. Now they just steal cars. If you have a nice bike what's to stop them from stealing your car?

  20. #3620
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlee View Post
    People used to steal custom wheels off cars. Now they just steal cars. If you have a nice bike what's to stop them from stealing your car?
    Getting your car stolen for your bike would suck but at least if you have your car insured you'll have some protection.
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  21. #3621
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    True.
    All the theft prevention suggestions here are good but a thief who wants your stuff will go all the way to try and get it.
    Always carry a stick and don't let you stuff get out of sight.

  22. #3622
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    Quote Originally Posted by rlee View Post
    People used to steal custom wheels off cars. Now they just steal cars. If you have a nice bike what's to stop them from stealing your car?
    ride a horse instead.


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  23. #3623
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    Horse, good idea then you won't need a bike will you. Then you can start wearing a Tilley hat and become one of those people.

  24. #3624
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    Here's an easy trick to release the pressure. When you're about the release, apply pressure to the top of the arm towards the center of the bike (as if you're making it tighter). That relieves the pressure off the release lever and makes it easy to lift up to release the arm.
    Thanks Tony, I do that - but I think I was clamping them down too hard and then there was only so much give for me to relieve pressure (hope that makes sense).

    Thanks guys


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  25. #3625
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.

    First time using for road bikes - worked


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    Last edited by a63vette; 07-16-2018 at 03:47 PM.

  26. #3626
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    Quote Originally Posted by a63vette View Post
    Thanks Tony, I do that - but I think I was clamping them down too hard and then there was only so much give for me to relieve pressure (hope that makes sense).

    Thanks guys


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    OK. You really don't need to clamp it down that hard.
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  27. #3627
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    Does anyone who parks outside leave their rack on 24/7? If so, how is it holding up? Any corrosion? I suppose local weather might make a difference, but just wondering.
    Somersaults... that's how I roll.

  28. #3628
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    Quote Originally Posted by briantortilla View Post
    Does anyone who parks outside leave their rack on 24/7? If so, how is it holding up? Any corrosion? I suppose local weather might make a difference, but just wondering.
    I leave it on my car 24/7, 360. No issues.
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  29. #3629
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I leave it on my car 24/7, 360. No issues.
    What about those other 5 days?

  30. #3630
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dr Evil View Post
    What about those other 5 days?
    I have it on my wife's car on those days for our camping trip.
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  31. #3631
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    mine has been on for a year now...central Ohio weather, so a bit of everything. No problems at all!!
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  32. #3632
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    I was looking at the new design of these racks and the associated thread as I wanted something easier than what I had. I opted for the original 1up version and here are some thoughts on the two.

    The only improvement that I would really get use out of is the crank handle for installing the rack to the car. That setup seems pretty slick and would be handy since I move them around a lot.

    The release lever for lowering the rack wouldn't do much for me as trying to lower the rack with 2 or more bikes installed is a PITA. Once it lowers just a bit, you either have to support the whole thing by the outer most bike, or get hit by it. Picking it back up with 4 bikes is a 2 person job regardless of the release lever design. Once all the bikes are off, the original design works perfectly fine whether it's in 1, 2, 3, or 4 bike mode.

    The quick release on the wheel size adjustment is nice for anything less than 26" in diameter. But in reality, once it's set, you would probably leave it in one spot most of the time anyway. If you wanted to change it, it's a pretty simple process and takes about 2 minutes with a 1/2" ratchet wrench. The quick release slots, in my opinion, lend themselves to having the wheel stop slide up and lose tension on the tire. Not necessarily and upgrade, just different and may or may not work for you.

    I thought that the 5" tire width would be nice until I installed the kit on my 1up. Now the arms on the fat tray hit the pedals of the bike next door if I don't pay attention. Again, it's just different, not really an upgrade unless you ride fat often.

    For what it's worth, I ordered the 2 place 2" receiver only rack with two add-on's. Once I got it and used it, I ordered a 1 place / 2" receiver rack as I didn't want to deal with the now cumbersome Thule T2. Now I can mix and match racks between 1, 2, 3, or 4 bikes between our 3 cars and camper as needed. I put the 2 place on the camper hitch and fold up the 2 add-on's which go in the camper. Once I get to where we are going, it takes more time to unload the bikes than it does to move the rack to the truck and install the add-on's. So that's my 5 minute overview on the rack options.

    And as always, it's useless without pictures.

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_5111.jpg1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_5104.jpg

  33. #3633
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    ^ What trailer do you have?

    Say I wanted a single rack for 1 1/4" hitch, and I order a second roof mount 1up bike holder.. what part do I need to mount the roof mount useable on the hitch mount?

  34. #3634
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    Quote Originally Posted by RX93 View Post
    ^ What trailer do you have?

    Say I wanted a single rack for 1 1/4" hitch, and I order a second roof mount 1up bike holder.. what part do I need to mount the roof mount useable on the hitch mount?
    I think this is what you're looking for but I would call them to double check.
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  35. #3635
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    Quote Originally Posted by RX93 View Post
    ^ What trailer do you have?

    Say I wanted a single rack for 1 1/4" hitch, and I order a second roof mount 1up bike holder.. what part do I need to mount the roof mount useable on the hitch mount?
    I think TonyRide1 is correct but I'm not sure how it will all fit together. I know the trays on the hitch mount racks are two piece but I would think that it would still work with the two mounting holes in the add on frame.

    That's a [email protected] CS-S. We don't get to use it as much as we would like but it's great. The kids sleep in the Land Cruiser and the misses and I get the camper.

  36. #3636
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    I think TonyRide1 is correct but I'm not sure how it will all fit together. I know the trays on the hitch mount racks are two piece but I would think that it would still work with the two mounting holes in the add on frame.
    If you read the description for the Roof Rack tray it says " Easily converts to Hitch-Mounted Rack or Add-On ". I believe it is the "Add-On" version he's looking for.
    https://www.1up-usa.com/product/roof-rack/
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  37. #3637
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    I converted my one up roof trays to hitch, on the hitch the 2 piece sleds just led you fold up instead you just use the carriage bolts in the roof sled and postion them over holes and bolt through bottom of hitch base. Been a long while but I had to call 1Up and order the hitch without sleds/trays that standalone part was not on website at the time.

    If in doubt call 1Up they will answer and take care of you make sure you get what you need.
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  38. #3638
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    If you read the description for the Roof Rack tray it says " Easily converts to Hitch-Mounted Rack or Add-On ". I believe it is the "Add-On" version he's looking for.
    https://www.1up-usa.com/product/roof-rack/
    Yup, that was my thought process. I have just never done the conversion so I canít speak for certain. Looks straight forward though

  39. #3639
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    I just received my rack today. I am impressed by the build quality but have one complaint and a few comments that I thought people should know about.

    I have the 2 bike rack model and ordered the EZ pull since I didn't want to reach under every time even though it is just 2 bikes right now. My one complaint is with the handle, it doesn't protrude very far from the end of the rack and I can only put my fingers up to the first knuckle in the gap to grab the handle. I am disappointed with this as it is just too short and not as well thought out as the rest of the rack. I will be contacting one up about this and seeing if I could possibly get the bars for the 3 bike rack and cut them down myself.

    Next are just comments about the rack that I had not seen mentioned other places. (I read lots of online reviews and most of this forum)
    1. The black knob around the golden bar in the tilting mechanism can be twisted down to lock the rack in place. I can't see the tilting mechanism falling, but it is nice to have that extra feature if needed.
    2. All of the locks I ordered secure by a thread in the lock. Different from the normal locks that just have a recessed groove like most hitch locks. I assume this is a more secure design as any attempts to break it are loaded over all the threads instead of just one groove.
    3. The add-on lock is another bolt that locks from the other side. I wasn't sure what it was at first but made sense once I started putting together the EZ-pull. I could use this lock to lock the EZ-pull to the rack but haven't decided if it's worth it.
    4. The security bolts on the one up are nice, but I would not trust them to be theft resistant at all. Tamper resistant Allen keys are super easy to come by now and it is just a normal size.

    Hope this helps someone.

  40. #3640
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    Just posted before but have a question and thought the two posts could be separate for less confusion.

    I was wondering what the quality of the light bar sold by one up was? I can only find one mention of it on one forum. Hoping to find some other feedback as it would be nice to get that one since it will probably play nicer with the rack.
    Here is the quote:
    "I did buy that POS of a light bar that 1UpUSA sells for $90. It interferes with the fat bike kit on one of the add-ons I have and the wiring is just ridiculously flimsy and poorly thought out."

  41. #3641
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    Anyone use the 1up hitch extender? Any advantages or disadvantages than buying another brands hitch extender plus a locking pin?

  42. #3642
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    Yes

    Quote Originally Posted by rhynohead View Post
    Anyone use the 1up hitch extender? Any advantages or disadvantages than buying another brands hitch extender plus a locking pin?
    Have had mine 2.5 years maybe a little more no issues holding up well. Nice that it uses same tool as rack. I recommend it.
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  43. #3643
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    Quote Originally Posted by HEMIjer View Post
    Have had mine 2.5 years maybe a little more no issues holding up well. Nice that it uses same tool as rack. I recommend it.
    Thanks for the quick reply. Any wobble?

  44. #3644
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    Quote Originally Posted by rhynohead View Post
    Thanks for the quick reply. Any wobble?
    Nope the security bolt keeps it tight.

  45. #3645
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    Anyone using an "EZ pull handle"? I've had my rack (super duty double) for about 6 months now, and I have to say the EZ pull handle is anything but EZ. Maybe I am doing something wrong or installed something wrong, but the handle is "sticky" in the sense that it takes a bunch of wiggling to get the bar out of the slots when the rack is in the Upright position (i.e. when its folded up against the vehicle w/o a bike on it). I now am finding myself just grabbing the pull bar, which seems to be easier to use in that position.

    Anyone else have this issue? Any tips or tricks to get the mechanism to work more smoothly?

  46. #3646
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    Quote Originally Posted by blylek View Post
    Anyone using an "EZ pull handle"? I've had my rack (super duty double) for about 6 months now, and I have to say the EZ pull handle is anything but EZ. Maybe I am doing something wrong or installed something wrong, but the handle is "sticky" in the sense that it takes a bunch of wiggling to get the bar out of the slots when the rack is in the Upright position (i.e. when its folded up against the vehicle w/o a bike on it). I now am finding myself just grabbing the pull bar, which seems to be easier to use in that position.

    Anyone else have this issue? Any tips or tricks to get the mechanism to work more smoothly?
    I don't have the EZ pull handle ( actually on V2 of my DIY handle), but can definitely say that you have to move the rack slightly to make sure it doesn't bind when trying to pull the bar. It is pretty easy to "learn" the motion, but till you do it consistently, it is hard to release the tilt mech.

    Not sure that helps you much, but ...

  47. #3647
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    Quote Originally Posted by blylek View Post
    Anyone using an "EZ pull handle"? I've had my rack (super duty double) for about 6 months now, and I have to say the EZ pull handle is anything but EZ. Maybe I am doing something wrong or installed something wrong, but the handle is "sticky" in the sense that it takes a bunch of wiggling to get the bar out of the slots when the rack is in the Upright position (i.e. when its folded up against the vehicle w/o a bike on it). I now am finding myself just grabbing the pull bar, which seems to be easier to use in that position.

    Anyone else have this issue? Any tips or tricks to get the mechanism to work more smoothly?
    mine used to be like that..... but now it works great. i think the little wear that occurs allows the handle to work better. i guess when they make the racks, the tolerance is quite small....maybe too small in this case.

  48. #3648
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    Yea the tolerances seem to be pretty tight. Looks like I'll just have to use it more often!
    Appreciate the replies!

  49. #3649
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    Quote Originally Posted by blylek View Post
    Anyone using an "EZ pull handle"?

    Anyone else have this issue? Any tips or tricks to get the mechanism to work more smoothly?
    I don't have the EZ pull handle (I only have a 1 bike rack), but I occassionally lube the notches that the bar fits into.

  50. #3650
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    Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
    I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.

  51. #3651
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
    I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.
    No issues with it loosening up. Iíve had my 1up for 8yrs and have never had an issue with the bolts that hold the second tray.

  52. #3652
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
    I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.
    I have a single (2Ē only), a double, and 2 add-ons and Iíve never had an issue. If you donít see a need to carry 4, then I would go with the single and 2 add-ons. The single is just easier to handle and it fits better on vehicles with a hatch. The single can be folded up on our Subaru Crosstrek and the hatch is still useable. Big plus if you donít want to remove it all the time.

  53. #3653
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    I have a single (2Ē only), a double, and 2 add-ons and Iíve never had an issue. If you donít see a need to carry 4, then I would go with the single and 2 add-ons. The single is just easier to handle and it fits better on vehicles with a hatch. The single can be folded up on our Subaru Crosstrek and the hatch is still useable. Big plus if you donít want to remove it all the time.
    Iím on a 17 Outback. I have a single I use 80% of the time. I picked up an older double and bought an add on for use with the kids. Had trouble with a bolt but other than that it fits well.

    Caveats are HEAVY and not fun when lowering the rack for access to the back. BUT I still think itís one of if not the best out there.

  54. #3654
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    I need 4 bikes out back sometimes; single base rack only allows two add ons for three total, so went 2+1+1. Love it!


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  55. #3655
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
    I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.
    I haven't had any problems with the bolts loosening. Recently I got a lock from 1UP USA which replaces one of the bolts and without a key it cannot loosen up.
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  56. #3656
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    Quote Originally Posted by tonyride1 View Post
    I haven't had any problems with the bolts loosening. Recently I got a lock from 1UP USA which replaces one of the bolts and without a key it cannot loosen up.
    I hadn't seen that on their site before you mentioned it. Thanks.

  57. #3657
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    I hadn't seen that on their site before you mentioned it. Thanks.
    Yup. I also got 2 wheel locks. When you order all the locks at the same time they will key them all the same and you get 2 keys per lock. So with the 3 locks I got (2 wheel locks and 1 Add-on lock) I got 6 keys and they're all the same. Plus you get a 15% discount when you order 2 or more wheel locks. The wheel locks have 2 sizes depending on whether you have the fat tire spacer kit or not.
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  58. #3658
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
    I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.
    No, I have a single plus an add-on, and Iíve never had it loosen at all. 6 years with mine now.

  59. #3659
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    Does anyone have any complaints with the add-on attachment mechanism? I know it is a sliding keyhole secured with two bolts. Has anyone had any issues with the bolts loosening and the add-on rattling around?
    I'm coming from a very old T2 but will need the ability to accommodate a third bike. I probably transport 60% with one bike, 30% with two and 10% with three. I'm kind of leaning towards getting the single and two add-ons vs getting a double and one add-on.
    Nope. None. Iíve had these racks for 8+ years and more than 20,000 miles and never been an issue.

    Because of the design, the angle is such that the faces of the ads ins are not a verification surface. That also adds side to side friction eliminating any play and therefore loosening.

    Iíd get the single and two add ons. One of the biggest advantages of this system IMHO is the modularity. Personally, it bugs me to have that extra tray hanging out there when I donít need it.

    The other big advantage to the single tray stage is how easy it is to store and move compared to the double. I hang mine on the wall in the garage and I donít think I could effectively do that with a double. Also, lugging the double tray unit is a lot more work than the single which my wife can do one handed.

  60. #3660
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    I wish they could come up with a ďpackageĒ offering rather than list several dozen options to dig through trying to figure out what makes the most sense. I was about to order a single, but now have a headache and a donít care attitude after screwing around with only some of the option choices. I didnít really seeing any overall recommendation in the thread. Went from being excited to thinking what a pita this is ...

  61. #3661
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    I wish they could come up with a ďpackageĒ offering rather than list several dozen options to dig through trying to figure out what makes the most sense. I was about to order a single, but now have a headache and a donít care attitude after screwing around with only some of the option choices. I didnít really seeing any overall recommendation in the thread. Went from being excited to thinking what a pita this is ...
    What do you mean by "package"?

    If you're ordering a single, you have two options. One is for a 2" receiver and the other is for a 1.25" receiver but includes a 2" receiver shim. As for add-ons, unless you're rocking 40 plus pound bikes, there is no need for the super-duty, the standard ones are more than sufficient.

    That being said, if you don't see the need to ever carry 4 bikes, definitely get the single plus whatever add-ons you may need. It's just lighter and easier to use (on and off vehicle).

  62. #3662
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    I wish they could come up with a ďpackageĒ offering rather than list several dozen options to dig through trying to figure out what makes the most sense. I was about to order a single, but now have a headache and a donít care attitude after screwing around with only some of the option choices. I didnít really seeing any overall recommendation in the thread. Went from being excited to thinking what a pita this is ...
    It's pretty straight forward. Do you have an 1.25" hitch or 2" hitch? Do you want to carry up to four bikes, or is three sufficient?

    I find the 1.25 inch works great since I normally only carry one bike, and keep on the car all year round. The rest of the items are nice to have accessories, but not required.

  63. #3663
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    I love this rack-but it is just a rack and it works like a rack should---holds my bike--I find it funny that it has 3661 posts and nearly 750000 views---more than almost any bike on the forum---go figure

  64. #3664
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    I want the single quick rack, which is the 1.25Ē/2Ē cheapest version, and how this thread started before it morphed into super thread status. By package I mean lock sets, accessories, etc. It seems like they might offer some recommended packages like just the rack, possibly rack & security, mid-level accessories option, then maybe a full premium heres the kitchen sink deal all included. You know; actually marketing a product trying to generate as much sales as possible, making it as easy as possible to order without having to plan it out like a world tour.

    I can sympathize with people who gripe about 1up sort of taking their customer base for granted. Seem like friendly people and all talking to them on the phone, but not interested in product development or marketing much. I suppose as long as Quik-Rack and Saris advertise BS and never actually deliver itís no problem. Pretty sweet business position to be in.

    well sorry for griping, was just a bit on edge after a long day at work and became annoyed/frustrated by the process is all ...
    Last edited by TheUnknownRider; 12-03-2018 at 10:06 PM.

  65. #3665
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    Quote Originally Posted by TheUnknownRider View Post
    I suppose as long as Quik-Rack and Saris advertise BS and never actually deliver itís no problem. Pretty sweet business position to be in.

    well sorry for griping, was just a bit on edge after a long day at work and became annoyed/frustrated by the process is all ...
    Saris was giving one away in an mtbr contest - they said Spring 2019

    Yeah, must have been a rough day. Can't be bothered to do a few clicks and research when spending a bunch of money, but time to whine on the internet?
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  66. #3666
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    Well itís more than a few clicks and maybe if you know it in and out it makes sense to you, but for people less familiar itís not so clear. However, I can take it as well as dish it out, so your response is fair enough.

    Which I didnít realize that the Kuat Transfer 1 was already out. For $220 msrp it has my attention at the moment and it is just a few clicks the way they laid it out. So it was just as well I held up.

  67. #3667
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    UnknownRider, you made me chuckle, maybe first time I read a post on MTBR complaining about lack of marketing for a bike product.

    So many posts on this rack about security, tons of great DIY stuff for security or activating the lever. Or you can buy 1up locks, straight forward.

    Enjoy the rack and the hype.

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  68. #3668
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    Well Iíve been on the web for practically 25 years now. Usually donít have a problem, but for some reason I end up just leaving their site without buying, several times now over the six months. Maybe itís something else. I read the thread. Could just be me being stupid or having some kind of mental block. Wouldnít be the first time, not likely the last either.

    Brightened up my day knowing somebody got a laugh out of it though

  69. #3669
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    Plenty of other options out there.

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  70. #3670
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    Yeah thanks. If I just wanted a rack by itself, no problem, but Iím in an apartment for the time being with no garage. So Iíd prefer being able to receive and install it securely without having to plan and make various trips & fitups to do the ideas and solutions suggested here. If I had my own place it wouldnít be any issue coming up with all my own solutions, tricks, and cluges. Thatís just not how it is at the moment though.

  71. #3671
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    Does anyone know if the trays on Super/Heavy Duty are the same as Quick Racks? Just has different size hitch?

    Iím asking because my 1.25Ē hitch quick rack is wobbly and My handle grip would bang on the window when I hit a small dip even with only 1 tray/bike. Even worse with 2 bikes. Since they donít make 2Ē hitch for my car, Iím unable to swap to that option but maybe the trays are built with less movement/play on their Super/Heavy Duty models and I can just buy the trays to swap out the noodle trays that I have.

  72. #3672
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    How hard are the add ons to install? I'm drawn towards getting the one bike rack for impromptu after work rides where it's just me and the dog, but on the weekends if I'm carrying one bike I'm usually carrying two. Would like to leave the one bike rack on through three week and still have uninhibited access to the back of my SUV but if the add on is a PITA to be putting on/off every other weekend I might just go for the 20% off Kuat NV 2.0 on Jenson USA.....

  73. #3673
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChaseN View Post
    How hard are the add ons to install? I'm drawn towards getting the one bike rack for impromptu after work rides where it's just me and the dog, but on the weekends if I'm carrying one bike I'm usually carrying two. Would like to leave the one bike rack on through three week and still have uninhibited access to the back of my SUV but if the add on is a PITA to be putting on/off every other weekend I might just go for the 20% off Kuat NV 2.0 on Jenson USA.....
    It literally takes a minute to put an add-on rack on to the main rack. There's beauty in its simplicity. It takes me a little longer because I got a lock to secure it to the main rack so it takes a couple of minutes to work the lock but without a lock it is very straight forward.
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  74. #3674
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    Quote Originally Posted by ChaseN View Post
    How hard are the add ons to install? I'm drawn towards getting the one bike rack for impromptu after work rides where it's just me and the dog, but on the weekends if I'm carrying one bike I'm usually carrying two. Would like to leave the one bike rack on through three week and still have uninhibited access to the back of my SUV but if the add on is a PITA to be putting on/off every other weekend I might just go for the 20% off Kuat NV 2.0 on Jenson USA.....
    Very easy, to put on and take off the extra tray.

    A big selling point for me was that it could do exactly what you are thinking.

    Much gets made of how convenient a bike rack is to use with the bike, but IMO how easy it is to deal with the REST of the time is even more important.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  75. #3675
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    Very easy, to put on and take off the extra tray.

    A big selling point for me was that it could do exactly what you are thinking.

    Much gets made of how convenient a bike rack is to use with the bike, but IMO how easy it is to deal with the REST of the time is even more important.
    Exactly my thoughts as well.

  76. #3676
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    I take my 2nd rack on and off a lot. There are two bolts. Yes, about 1 minute.
    Concerning questions about the trays, call the company; they're helpful. I believe the trays are all the same as i originally bought a roof rack tray and then later used it as part of a hitch rack setup.

  77. #3677
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
    Does anyone know if the trays on Super/Heavy Duty are the same as Quick Racks? Just has different size hitch?

    Iím asking because my 1.25Ē hitch quick rack is wobbly and My handle grip would bang on the window when I hit a small dip even with only 1 tray/bike. Even worse with 2 bikes. Since they donít make 2Ē hitch for my car, Iím unable to swap to that option but maybe the trays are built with less movement/play on their Super/Heavy Duty models and I can just buy the trays to swap out the noodle trays that I have.
    I believe the trays are all the same. Most of the wobble you are describing comes from the 1.25" shank on the rack that fits into the hitch. Obviously 1.25" is less torsionally stiff than 2". Aluminum is also less stiff than steel, and most other racks have a steel shank so they are stiffer. The rest of the wobble comes from the combination of the way the tray arms hold the wheels and the profile of the tire tray, which isn't as secure as other wheel clamping racks.

    How far are you inserting the rack into your hitch receiver? Maybe you can pull it out a bit to get more clearance between the handlebar and rear window.

    When first got a 1up rack the overall amount of wobble in it was very unnerving. I eventually got used to it, but this is also one of the reasons I ended up selling it.

  78. #3678
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    Thanks guys. I got my rack in today. Got to put my hitch on the car this weekend and see how it all works!

  79. #3679
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustMtnB44 View Post
    I believe the trays are all the same. Most of the wobble you are describing comes from the 1.25" shank on the rack that fits into the hitch. Obviously 1.25" is less torsionally stiff than 2". Aluminum is also less stiff than steel, and most other racks have a steel shank so they are stiffer. The rest of the wobble comes from the combination of the way the tray arms hold the wheels and the profile of the tire tray, which isn't as secure as other wheel clamping racks.

    How far are you inserting the rack into your hitch receiver? Maybe you can pull it out a bit to get more clearance between the handlebar and rear window.

    When first got a 1up rack the overall amount of wobble in it was very unnerving. I eventually got used to it, but this is also one of the reasons I ended up selling it.
    Thank you. I have pulled it out some and although it helped from not hitting the rear window, the wobble got worse! 1UP said to buy their lock kit to tighten the insertion to the hitch but I'm done buying chit from them. I'll just use the hitch anti-wobble that I already have and see if that would help. If not, I'll have to use a pool noodle and stick in the handlebar.

  80. #3680
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    Has anyone put a long tail cargo bike on one of the super have duty racks? Wheelbase for some of them like RadWagon and Tern GSD should fit length wise, wondering about gripping on the wheels etc

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  81. #3681
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    considering the 1up quick rack with1 1/4' with 2" adapter
    has any one used a single with 3 add ons (total 4 bikes)
    I know the website say's only 3bikes total but if I calculate the rack with 4 bikes none are more then 30lbs each this doesn't exceed the tongue weight of 350lbs of the hitch
    is this possible or am I missing something?

  82. #3682
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    I read on one of these threads that 1Up used to say "up to 4" for the QuickRack at some point in the past but then changed to the current guidance. I don't know why.

  83. #3683
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    Quote Originally Posted by forgetaboutit905 View Post
    considering the 1up quick rack with1 1/4' with 2" adapter
    has any one used a single with 3 add ons (total 4 bikes)
    I know the website say's only 3bikes total but if I calculate the rack with 4 bikes none are more then 30lbs each this doesn't exceed the tongue weight of 350lbs of the hitch
    is this possible or am I missing something?
    You would have the extra weight further from the receiver though, which creates leverage and downrates its capacity. Your class III or IV receiver will be fine but to me that seems like a lot for the 1 1/4Ē piece of aluminum. One-up sells the piece to make your rack 2Ē.

  84. #3684
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    Quote Originally Posted by forgetaboutit905 View Post
    considering the 1up quick rack with1 1/4' with 2" adapter
    has any one used a single with 3 add ons (total 4 bikes)
    I know the website say's only 3bikes total but if I calculate the rack with 4 bikes none are more then 30lbs each this doesn't exceed the tongue weight of 350lbs of the hitch
    is this possible or am I missing something?
    Issue is the base 2 bike unit is built as one unit, so starting with a single base unit and bolting on 3 isn't as strong as starting with 2 base unit and bolting on 2 singles.

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  85. #3685
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    Yes I get this just more options with the single with 1 1/4 and 2 " adapter
    the majority of the time would only be 1 or 2 bikes sometimes 3 and the very rare 4bikes(twice a year) so I was really hoping it would be possible without issue that I could go this way without going to the 2" double.
    Cheers

  86. #3686
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    Quote Originally Posted by briantortilla View Post
    Does anyone who parks outside leave their rack on 24/7? If so, how is it holding up? Any corrosion? I suppose local weather might make a difference, but just wondering.
    There is nothing to corrode from weather except probably the handle spring. Everything else is aluminum with a little bit of plastic and stainless hardware.
    1up has anodized finish, but unavoidable bar surface scratches will allow for galvanic corrosion. Keep in mind that if you leave the rack in receiver for months, the unavoidable galvanic corrosion will bond them, and it may become very hard to detach the rack from receiver.

  87. #3687
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    Quote Originally Posted by Newbikeman View Post
    Whatís to stop anyone from unscrewing the four bolts on the sides and taking the bike and most of the rack?
    All 1up bolts that are not supposed to be unscrewed during regular maintenance, such as bolts that attach side plates to the hitch bar, etc., are secured with Loctite threadlocker. There is much higher chance of breaking the bolt than unscrewing unless you use the heatgun.

  88. #3688
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosulin View Post
    There is nothing to corrode from weather except probably the handle spring. Everything else is aluminum with a little bit of plastic and stainless hardware.
    1up has anodized finish, but unavoidable bar surface scratches will allow for galvanic corrosion. Keep in mind that if you leave the rack in receiver for months, the unavoidable galvanic corrosion will bond them, and it may become very hard to detach the rack from receiver.
    On mine, the long bolts that go through the stabilizers that hold the tires are not stainless, and pretty rusty after a few years. I've been meaning to replace them with stainless if I can find them. I end up moving the stabilizers on occasion, which is the only reason I was even aware of this.

    Other than that.... as you say, there is not much to rust.

    I leave mine on quite a bit in the salty North East winters.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

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    I have a single black one I leave on all year in northeast winter. So far a ok on year 2.

  90. #3690
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    Quote Originally Posted by biscut View Post
    I have a single black one I leave on all year in northeast winter. So far a ok on year 2.
    have the silver stainless on now 2.5 years...Central Ohio winter (1 inch of snow...10 inches of salt!!!). It is fine!
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  91. #3691
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    Quote Originally Posted by kapusta View Post
    On mine, the long bolts that go through the stabilizers that hold the tires are not stainless, and pretty rusty after a few years.
    Interesting. Do you mean bolts that attach tire spacers to bars?
    I checked mine, and you are right, there are bolts that are most likely yellow zinc galvanized, including bolts that hold tire spacers. These will rust if the coating is damaged.

  92. #3692
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosulin View Post
    All 1up bolts that are not supposed to be unscrewed during regular maintenance, such as bolts that attach side plates to the hitch bar, etc., are secured with Loctite threadlocker. There is much higher chance of breaking the bolt than unscrewing unless you use the heatgun.
    A cable and lock.


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  93. #3693
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    Hello, anybody here that insert the hitch ball less than 2 inch? Maybe insert just 1.25 inch? I have a 3rd gen Rav4 with the spare tire, the pedal might hit the spare tire cover.

  94. #3694
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-imag0397.jpg
    Quote Originally Posted by porDIOS_porSANTO View Post
    Hello, anybody here that insert the hitch ball less than 2 inch? Maybe insert just 1.25 inch? I have a 3rd gen Rav4 with the spare tire, the pedal might hit the spare tire cover.
    I have the same vehicle (2008 RAV4) and I'm able to insert it 2" without the pedal scratching the spare tire as long as I have the pedal at the 6 O'Clock position.
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  95. #3695
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    Thanks, I also saw your pic yesterday on google search but I wasn't able to find anything 3rd gen rav4 with 1up side shot/picture. I have a flat pedal (OneUp composite), you must be using clipless?

  96. #3696
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    Quote Originally Posted by porDIOS_porSANTO View Post
    Thanks, I also saw your pic yesterday on google search but I wasn't able to find anything 3rd gen rav4 with 1up side shot/picture. I have a flat pedal (OneUp composite), you must be using clipless?
    I had clipless pedals but I've switched to flats. Still no issues.
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    1Up sells a hitch extender; might be worth considering.

  98. #3698
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vtbikologist View Post
    1Up sells a hitch extender; might be worth considering.
    that is what I got for my 2010 RAV4...works fine. I had a 2"hitch put on the car so I am running 2" hitch -> extender -> 1Up 2 rack system (with plans to get the 2 bike add on this spring)
    Go practice. Figure it out. - Fleas

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  99. #3699
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    Quote Originally Posted by sXeXBMXer View Post
    that is what I got for my 2010 RAV4...works fine. I had a 2"hitch put on the car so I am running 2" hitch -> extender -> 1Up 2 rack system (with plans to get the 2 bike add on this spring)
    How is the wobble/side to side play comparing to without an extender?

  100. #3700
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    This is what I use on our 2014 Wrangler. I donít notice much difference with it versus being on our vehicles with straight 2Ē hitches. The anti rattle device makes a huge difference though so I would definitely go with one of those. Total is $35 which is significantly cheaper than the 1up option.

    Cal Hawk Tools CZHBME08 8" Receiver Extension https://www.amazon.com/dp/B00CXXI4XC..._HXgwCbMRHKGZ8

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  101. #3701
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    Quote Originally Posted by porDIOS_porSANTO View Post
    How is the wobble/side to side play comparing to without an extender?
    I never used it without the extender so I would not know that element of it, but it can get wobbly on rougher roads (gravel/neglected country), when the it is empty. (It lives on the car 24/7). With bikes, it is more stable, again, unless I am on rough road. Side to side is not as bad as up and down though. It has been to Central Michigan from Central Ohio about 5-6 times in the past 3 years loaded, and have had no problems...also been to Lake Placid from Central Ohio once
    Go practice. Figure it out. - Fleas

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  102. #3702
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    My rack came in today, I got this for $500 CAD ($380 USD) from the 2018 Share the Ride PB winner. Talk about luck.

    Happy to share that with 2 inch of insertion on the hitch, the pedals are 1.5 inch from the spare tire cover. Thanks a lot for your responses.

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_20190204_174701.jpg

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  103. #3703
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    Quote Originally Posted by porDIOS_porSANTO View Post
    My rack came in today, I got this for $500 CAD ($380 USD) from the 2018 Share the Ride PB winner. Talk about luck.

    Happy to share that with 2 inch of insertion on the hitch, the pedals are 1.5 inch from the spare tire cover. Thanks a lot for your responses.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    sweet...you got it all!!!

    Cool car, cool bike, cool rack, cool weather and SNOW!!! Get out there and ride!!
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  104. #3704
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    Is it possible to use a wheel-lock as a hitch lock?
    Last edited by peanuthead; 02-14-2019 at 09:52 PM.

  105. #3705
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    IIRC, the hitch lock is shorter length than the wheel lock.


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  106. #3706
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosulin View Post
    All 1up bolts that are not supposed to be unscrewed during regular maintenance, such as bolts that attach side plates to the hitch bar, etc., are secured with Loctite threadlocker. There is much higher chance of breaking the bolt than unscrewing unless you use the heatgun.
    Correction after I disassembled the rack for a damaged part replacement:
    1) contrary to what was stated to me by 1up customer service rep, I haven't found any bolts secured with Threadlocker. I managed to disassemble the rack using wrench with long handle and cordless screwdriver, no heatgun involved.
    2) Unscrewing 4 bolts that attach side panels to the hitch bar does not detach them from the hitch bar as side panels have slots where the hitch bar is nested into.
    3) However, the rack can be easily detached from hitch bar in less than minute by unscrewing the long threaded pin that goes through the tilt pipe, and is secured by 2 nuts on both sides of it. All you need is a wrench and cordless screwdriver. Additional security measures, such as long U-Lock, is a must if the rack is left unattended!

  107. #3707
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    In case anyone is wondering, current 2" 1up racks have a slot machined in the hitch tongue. Now you can put a hitch pin (or locking hitch pin) through the hole in your receiver and through the slot. Because it's a slot and not a hole, you can still adjust the depth of rack insertion. Racks are sold with a "locking hitch pin" - so instead of using a lock to block access to the securing screw, you simply lock the rack to the hitch directly. No need for a velcro strap or u-lock unless you want extra security.

    This thread has really helped me. Thank you: I plan to buy a Super Duty single (because I have a 2" receiver and want a 2" hitch) and a Heavy Duty Add-On (I'll only ever need to transport one or two bikes).

    I plan to get silver since black, apparently, fades with time and UV exposure.

    I'll probably buy the 1up Add-On lock - feedback seems pretty neutral. I suppose it would be possible to just padlock or u-lock the Add-On to the base rack though? Maybe a padlock wouldn't fit over the junction between the two. It sounds like the 1up Add-On lock significantly slows down the process of adding/removing the Add-On...

    What I haven't decided on is wheel locks. I'd be getting them just as a deterrent, but it seems like a super-heavy chain or cable would be faster and a bit more secure than the wheel locks.

    I also haven't decided on the EZ Pull addition... worth the money if you're only using a single + Add-On at most?

    Also: the Thule Helium Platform that was supposed to be available this month has been delayed until 2020.

  108. #3708
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    Quote Originally Posted by tullynation View Post
    This thread has really helped me. Thank you: I plan to buy a Super Duty single (because I have a 2" receiver and want a 2" hitch) and a Heavy Duty add-on (I'll only ever need to transport one or two bikes).

    I also haven't decided on the EZ Pull addition... worth the money if you're only using a single + add-on at most?
    Nice pick. That's my preferred set up. I have a 2" heavy duty double as well but the single super duty is just easier to deal with due to smaller size and less weight.

    No need for the EZ pull. It seems like a great idea but I found that it's a solution to a very minor issue. Then you also have the hassle of removing it when you remove the add-on.

  109. #3709
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    I have the Super Duty Single, with 2 single add-ons. Wanted 2" , ability to haul 3 bikes when needed, and something strong enough for ebikes.

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  110. #3710
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    I always use the rack lock and add-on locks, but wheel locks - only occasionally, when needed. IMO they offer better protection than any cable, and I need only one key for everything!
    Speaking about hitch pin - I would avoid using it; 1up ball saved me a lot of money when my rack hit a curb when backing off - the rack just moved slightly deeper into receiver. With pin I would get a broken rack.

  111. #3711
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosulin View Post
    I always use the rack lock and add-on locks, but wheel locks - only occasionally, when needed. IMO they offer better protection than any cable, and I need only one key for everything!

    Speaking about hitch pin - I would avoid using it; 1up ball saved me a lot of money when my rack hit a curb when backing off - the rack just moved slightly deeper into receiver. With pin I would get a broken rack.
    Sounds good. I think we'll get the wheel locks - at least two of them if not four.

    Regarding the rack sliding during a low-speed collision, since the hitch pin passes through a long slot (not a single hole) in the rack hitch tongue, it could still slide in the receiver depending on where in the travel the pin happens to be. But this is definitely a point worth considering... Perhaps the "u-lock" method would be best after all.
    Last edited by tullynation; 05-15-2019 at 11:43 AM.

  112. #3712
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    The fixation with securing the rack is odd. The Velcro strap works. I use 2 when I carry 3 bikes.

    But if you want belts and suspenders, go for it.

    Given all the 1Up haters on MTBR, wouldn't you think that theft would be played up? U stead, we get staged bullshit from competitors and Cal's oent up volcanic insanity eruption.

    This us one if the best products as is, high price, made in THE USA. DON'T SWEAT IT.

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  113. #3713
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    Thinking about selling my 1Up 1.25" single and buying the Super 2". But then I saw the Saris MTR and supposedly there's a Thule one coming out as well. They look much nicer, but also seem to cost a pretty penny.

  114. #3714
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    Quote Originally Posted by djxpress View Post
    Thinking about selling my 1Up 1.25" single and buying the Super 2". But then I saw the Saris MTR and supposedly there's a Thule one coming out as well. They look much nicer, but also seem to cost a pretty penny.
    Why? Need more weight capacity?

  115. #3715
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    getting one for 2 bikes, plus I want a 2" vs the 1.25" and an adapter.

  116. #3716
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    Quote Originally Posted by djxpress View Post
    getting one for 2 bikes, plus I want a 2" vs the 1.25" and an adapter.
    There is STILL a three bike limitation for the 2 inch single super duty. The 1-1/4 plus the adapter for 2 inch is more versatile, and 3 bike max is the same. Only the 2 inch 2 bike carrier can carry up to four bikes with extra carriers

    I've had my 1UP since 2012 (1-1/4" version) and I use it on my SUV with the adapter (2 inch) , and also have an extra 1Up carrier. Never had an issue. I needed the 1-1/4 at the time because 1UP only made a two bike version for 2 inch receiver, and I had a camper with a 1-1/4 inch receiver on the back. I would carry one or two bikes on MTB trips, then transfer the 1UP over to the SUV (2 inch ) for the weekend. Could not wish for a better system.

  117. #3717
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    I still feel like using the 2" super duty one is better and sturdier. If I ever needed to put it into a 1.25" I could buy an adapter. Also I've read the newer produced ones have a hole now for the hitch pin (I could be wrong) making it a safer bet from coming out of the hitch. I have the 1.25" and hate how the little L adapter with a single bolt holding it on is the only thing that's keeping pressure inside the hitch to prevent it from coming out. I'd hate to have 2 x $3k bikes on the back relying on this sole mechanism.

  118. #3718
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    Quote Originally Posted by djxpress View Post
    Thinking about selling my 1Up 1.25" single and buying the Super 2". But then I saw the Saris MTR and supposedly there's a Thule one coming out as well. They look much nicer, but also seem to cost a pretty penny.
    It's cheaper to buy the parts you need than to sell your rack and buy another.
    https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2-hi...h-side-plates/

  119. #3719
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    Do these racks ever go on sale? Pretty spendy, though they do look nice.
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  120. #3720
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space Robot View Post
    Do these racks ever go on sale? Pretty spendy, though they do look nice.
    Not really, but its a one time investment.
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  121. #3721
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    $599 - Thule T2 Pro XT 2 -2"
    $799 - Saris MTR 2
    $649 - Kuat NV 2.0
    $589 - Kuat NV Base 2.0
    $569 - 1up 2" double heavy duty
    $598 - 1up 2" single plus one add-on

    The cost of these racks is inline with everything else. Maybe a bit more when comparing it to mid to low end racks but that's not a fair comparison. If I was going to spend $600 on a bike rack and didn't need to carry 4, the 2" single with one add-on would easily get my vote. After using Thule racks for the last 15 plus years, I can say that they have a quality product and amazing customer service. With that being said, I would still pay full price for a 1up before buying anything else at 25% off. You don't find them on sale or used for a reason, and it's completely justified in my opinion.

  122. #3722
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    Thanks guys, good to know. I was looking at a RockyMounts Split Rail on sale for $399 which is pretty much my limit. I have their Brass Knuckle roof rack and havenít had any problems with it. Iíd have to go with a single tray 1Up at that price level. But Iíd rarely need to carry two bikes anyway so Iím looking closely at it.
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  123. #3723
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space Robot View Post
    Do these racks ever go on sale? Pretty spendy, though they do look nice.
    Wait and see if there is competition from some of these other companies, otherwise--no.

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  124. #3724
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space Robot View Post
    Thanks guys, good to know. I was looking at a RockyMounts Split Rail on sale for $399 which is pretty much my limit. I have their Brass Knuckle roof rack and havenít had any problems with it. Iíd have to go with a single tray 1Up at that price level. But Iíd rarely need to carry two bikes anyway so Iím looking closely at it.
    I looked at that Rocky Mount a few months ago. I'm sure it's a good rack, but visually it is huge. I didn't get it.

    Ended up with the 1up 1 bike rack. It's way less rack to tote around, I can open my trunk without having to fold it down and my dog can even jump right over it to get in the back of my SUV.

    Turns out I do sometimes take two bikes though, so I ended up needing to order the add-on rack after a while. It attaches or removes in less than 30 seconds. I like the modularity, and just leave the 1bike setup on my car 24/7.

  125. #3725
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    Quote Originally Posted by JScoot View Post
    I looked at that Rocky Mount a few months ago. I'm sure it's a good rack, but visually it is huge.
    It seems all of the competition is failing to realize that the overall size does matter. I was loading up two bikes on my wife's Subaru Crosstrek this morning using the 2" single and one add-on. For giggles, I folded it up against the vehicle and tried to open the rear hatch. It cleared by an inch or two. That's a huge selling point. When I had the Thule T2 on there, it was always in the way. It's either folded up rendering the hatch useless, or it's in the bike carrying position and you have to wiggle in between the rack and the car to use the back cargo space. It definitely wasn't a rack that you would want to leave on 24/7.

  126. #3726
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustMtnB44 View Post
    It's cheaper to buy the parts you need than to sell your rack and buy another.
    https://www.1up-usa.com/product/2-hi...h-side-plates/
    I didn't know about this. Good link! Nice upgrade if you don't require the 1-1/4 inch at all.

  127. #3727
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    Quote Originally Posted by JScoot View Post
    I like the modularity, and just leave the 1bike setup on my car 24/7.
    You'd better take it off once in a while, say, every 3-4 months, for inspection, otherwise you may have problems with 1up bar being stuck in hitch receiver thanks to galvanic corrosion.
    1up prevents corrosion by anodizing all aluminum parts, but the layer is thin and is not scratch resistant.

  128. #3728
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosulin View Post
    You'd better take it off once in a while, say, every 3-4 months, for inspection, otherwise you may have problems with 1up bar being stuck in hitch receiver thanks to galvanic corrosion.
    1up prevents corrosion by anodizing all aluminum parts, but the layer is thin and is not scratch resistant.
    Hmm, okay, I'll check that. What do you use to prevent corrosion, a little WD40?

  129. #3729
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    Just try to keep the interior of the hitch clear of rust and youíll be fine. A little WD40 on the ball wouldnít hurt.

  130. #3730
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    Just try to keep the interior of the hitch clear of rust and youíll be fine. A little WD40 on the ball wouldnít hurt.
    I asked 1up about this last week when I ordered my rack. We didn't discuss WD40 but they advised against a light coating of grease. He actually told me to wrap the hitch in a layer of electrical tape prior to insertion. I'm somewhat skeptical. Also concerned that WD40 on the ball might prevent secure clamping inside the receiver.

  131. #3731
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    Ya, I wouldnít coat the whole thing. Just a little something to keep the ball from seizing up.

  132. #3732
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    I just picked up a heavy duty double on Tuesday, super fast shipping and great vs. As far as the rack itself, I purchased it just die to fitment on my Jeep Wrangler and the high ground clearance. As far as function, meh...it's a little discerning to see my bike wobble so much at highway speeds, wouldn't of expected that at this price point. Don't get me wrong I haven't lost a bike and I know I never will but the only rack I've had this much movement was on a Kuat Transfer.

  133. #3733
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    Bummer. Does the rack move in the hitch or the bikes move around in the rack? Is it the 2Ē version?
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  134. #3734
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I just picked up a heavy duty double on Tuesday, super fast shipping and great vs. As far as the rack itself, I purchased it just die to fitment on my Jeep Wrangler and the high ground clearance. As far as function, meh...it's a little discerning to see my bike wobble so much at highway speeds, wouldn't of expected that at this price point. Don't get me wrong I haven't lost a bike and I know I never will but the only rack I've had this much movement was on a Kuat Transfer.
    If the rack is wobbly at the hitch, you may have a problem. The ball is supposed to lock it up tight, I can move my car before I can get the rack to wobble. The bike itself is also very tight to the rack, with the arms snugged up to the tires I see no way for the bike to move. Are you tightening the arms to the point that they are slightly depressing (digging into) the tires?

  135. #3735
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    With everything secured properly, the bike will still wobble a little. There is no way to stop this. You are holding the bike by the tires which probably have 15 to 20 psi. The tires flex allowing the complete bike to move. The only cure is for a fork mount rack or something that holds onto the frame. I got a little less movement out of my Thule T2 but it also contacted the fork. If I pulled the T2 arm away from the fork, the movement was similar.

  136. #3736
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    Quote Originally Posted by Space Robot View Post
    Bummer. Does the rack move in the hitch or the bikes move around in the rack? Is it the 2Ē version?
    2 inch and super tight in the hitch.

    Quote Originally Posted by JScoot View Post
    If the rack is wobbly at the hitch, you may have a problem. The ball is supposed to lock it up tight, I can move my car before I can get the rack to wobble. The bike itself is also very tight to the rack, with the arms snugged up to the tires I see no way for the bike to move. Are you tightening the arms to the point that they are slightly depressing (digging into) the tires?
    Not moving in the hitch but yeah even with the tires compressed so much I can hardly trip the mechanism to release them and it still wobbles.

    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    With everything secured properly, the bike will still wobble a little. There is no way to stop this. You are holding the bike by the tires which probably have 15 to 20 psi. The tires flex allowing the complete bike to move. The only cure is for a fork mount rack or something that holds onto the frame. I got a little less movement out of my Thule T2 but it also contacted the fork. If I pulled the T2 arm away from the fork, the movement was similar.
    Yeah it's just the design but it fits my vehicle good so... Never had any movement with my rm monorail, t2, or Kuat nv but yeah everything will be ok, just surprised a bit.

  137. #3737
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    My admittedly cheap and easy security solution. Also instills more confidence than a velcro strap.

    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  138. #3738
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    Quote Originally Posted by BXCc View Post
    With everything secured properly, the bike will still wobble a little. There is no way to stop this. You are holding the bike by the tires which probably have 15 to 20 psi. The tires flex allowing the complete bike to move.
    Huh. Maybe my standards aren't high enough, but I haven't considered tire flex when taking corners or hitting bumps to be the same as frame movement. The tires retain contact with the rack and the arms at all times, and all that's allowing any visual movement is compression of the air in the tires, right? Seems good enough for me 😊.

  139. #3739
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    Quote Originally Posted by JScoot View Post
    Huh. Maybe my standards aren't high enough, but I haven't considered tire flex when taking corners or hitting bumps to be the same as frame movement. The tires retain contact with the rack and the arms at all times, and all that's allowing any visual movement is compression of the air in the tires, right? Seems good enough for me 😊.
    Correct. Well, thatís how I see it anyway. The pivoting of the headset adds to it as well.

  140. #3740
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    All racks have some sort of movement.
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  141. #3741
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    The wobble of the bikes in the trays was the thing I disliked the most about the 1up rack I had. It just doesn't inspire confidence, even though I know it isn't possible for the bikes to come out. The way the rack only holds the tires with relatively low angle surfaces instead of a cradle or hook is the main contributor to it.

    Other racks I have used had much less bike to rack wobble, but may have had more wobble in other places such as the tilt pivot, hitch interface, or the structure of the rack itself.

  142. #3742
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustMtnB44 View Post
    The wobble of the bikes in the trays was the thing I disliked the most about the 1up rack I had. It just doesn't inspire confidence, even though I know it isn't possible for the bikes to come out. The way the rack only holds the tires with relatively low angle surfaces instead of a cradle or hook is the main contributor to it.
    .
    I can understand that.

    Under normal circumstances The movement is not very much and I am fine with it. However When I use the fat bike adapter with road/gravel tires, there is more movement than I would like. It holds, but I do not have full confidence. I rigged up a second set of cross-pieces to use with road/gravel tires.

    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  143. #3743
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    For those interested in a few picks of the new Saris MTR, I got mine today. A co-worker of mine got his new black 1up with the new hitch receiver yesterday. There are pros/cons of each.

    The new 1up hitch is much better than before and the locking pin is nice. The saris one hand tightens, but then you need to use a wrench to eliminate all wobble play. But once tightened, it is very solid with no play. Lock is nice.

    The saris definitely has more plastic. All important parts are metal as they should be. Plastic is mostly to cover the ratchet mechanisms and the pull handle.

    Pull handle on saris is probably better than 1up just for where it is located. The saris slides/ratchet mechanism is rotary compared to one up. This is where the plastic covers are on the saris rotary mechanisms.
    The saris levers to work the arms are better than 1 up as it is not finicky to be just right horizontal level.

    The saris integrated cable locks are nice. And there is a lock for each tray or bike rather than looping a single lock through all like my kuat did. Saris came with 3 keys that all work for hitch pin lock and the cable locks.

    So, is it worth the $150 difference? Hard to say. If they were both $650 and side by side in store it would be hard to choose. I like both.

    The new bike comes tomorrow, so then I can see how it all works as intended.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_1897.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_1898.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_1905.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_1904.jpg  


  144. #3744
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLAYER2015 View Post
    For those interested in a few picks of the new Saris MTR, I got mine today. A co-worker of mine got his new black 1up with the new hitch receiver yesterday. There are pros/cons of each.

    .
    Can the cross bars that hold the tires on the Saris be moved down as far as the ones on the 1UP can?
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  145. #3745
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    Hi. Not sure about the 1up. But Saris is optimized down to 20".
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-screen-shot-2019-05-24-11.16.18-am.jpg  


  146. #3746
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    Quote Originally Posted by JScoot View Post
    I looked at that Rocky Mount a few months ago. I'm sure it's a good rack, but visually it is huge. I didn't get it.

    Ended up with the 1up 1 bike rack. It's way less rack to tote around, I can open my trunk without having to fold it down and my dog can even jump right over it to get in the back of my SUV.

    Turns out I do sometimes take two bikes though, so I ended up needing to order the add-on rack after a while. It attaches or removes in less than 30 seconds. I like the modularity, and just leave the 1bike setup on my car 24/7.
    Thanks, I started thinking about this and 95% of the time I'll only have one bike to carry. So the smaller 1 bike Quick Rack is really appealing. Add to that, when I do carry another bike, it will likely be a kid's bike with 16" wheels. I can't find any other platform racks that will go down this low. Makes it harder for me to justify the RockyMounts or anything else.

    I've been reading about finish issues on the 1Up which gave me pause, but I just went out and looked at my two roof racks and they are getting a beat down. Scratched/flaking paint, faded plastic. Nothing stays nice for very long. Maybe a reason to go with the silver version though. If the powdercoat flakes, it won't be as noticeable.
    2015 Santa Cruz Tallboy
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  147. #3747
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    I have the 1.25 hitch and its wobbly too! A friend of mine has the same in his WRX and his too wobbles. I wonder if the 2" version Super Duty wobbles less? Mine is even worse when I have two bikes back there. It bounces off of my back window (I have a Kia Soul) that I have to put pool noodle at the end of the bar end to eliminate the chance of the grip cracking the back window. I also make sure I have locks after locks. I'm sure it's not going to fall out but you just never know with this bike racks bouncing around all over the place.

  148. #3748
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLAYER2015 View Post
    Hi. Not sure about the 1up. But Saris is optimized down to 20".
    Actually, it is not small wheels, but rather full coverage fenders I had in mind. I would need to get a measurement to know for sure if that rack would work, but the fact that they specifically talk about it is a good sign.
    15mm is a second-best solution to a problem that was already solved.

  149. #3749
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tjay View Post
    I have the 1.25 hitch and its wobbly too! A friend of mine has the same in his WRX and his too wobbles. I wonder if the 2" version Super Duty wobbles less? Mine is even worse when I have two bikes back there. It bounces off of my back window (I have a Kia Soul) that I have to put pool noodle at the end of the bar end to eliminate the chance of the grip cracking the back window. I also make sure I have locks after locks. I'm sure it's not going to fall out but you just never know with this bike racks bouncing around all over the place.
    ďYou just never knowĒ....how do you manage with this contraption? Youíd have no problem selling it for top $$$ in a day or two, and getting something that is bike wobble free.

    When I got my first roof rack, Yakima King Cobra (forget the version), I was so worried that I had installed the bars incorrectly that I had a friend drive behind me to report what bike and rack were doing. I had that rack for 10+ years, never lost a bike, despite mounting with flat tires, despite mounting with improper tightening of front wheel clamp, i.e., completely loose, despite Santa Anna winds pushing the entire set several inches backwards on the roof, etc.

    When I got my 1upUSA rack, I wasnít aware of this ďwobble issueĒ until I read about it on MTBR.

    If you have bikes bouncing off the back window then you should consider how far the rack is inserted into the hitch, or whether the bikes need to be offset of each other in the trays. I carry 3 bikes on a Super duty single with 2 extras and donít hear wobble noise, nor does anything hit the rear window.

    It is possible to enjoy these racks, never lose a bike, and never have the rack stolen , ďwe do know.Ē




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  150. #3750
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    So, I finally got the new bike built and used on the new rack. Thing is solid and works awesome as expected.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-img_1911-2.jpg  


  151. #3751
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    Quote Originally Posted by SLAYER2015 View Post
    So, I finally got the new bike built and used on the new rack. Thing is solid and works awesome as expected.
    Are those plastic hinge covers new? Did they come with the rack or did you fabricate them?
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  152. #3752
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    ?? This is new, stock Saris MTR 2 rack fully assembled out of the box...

  153. #3753
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    Oh, that's not a 1UP Rack.
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  154. #3754
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    Is anyone using the new 1UP slotted hitch bar? Did the slot properly line up with the receiver holes?

  155. #3755
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    Quote Originally Posted by mountaincyclist View Post
    Is anyone using the new 1UP slotted hitch bar? Did the slot properly line up with the receiver holes?
    I have the 2" hitch with the slotted bar. It lines up with my hitch hole, though the slot isn't as big as the circumference of the hitch hole. It lines up with about 3/4ths of the hitch hole which is more than enough for the lock that's included with the hitch. It's also a welcome addition as there is no more velcroing the hitch rack to the hitch. With the hitch lock on, there's no way the rack can fully slide out from the hitch if the ball mechanism were to loosen too much.

  156. #3756
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    Quote Originally Posted by djxpress View Post
    I have the 2" hitch with the slotted bar. It lines up with my hitch hole, though the slot isn't as big as the circumference of the hitch hole. It lines up with about 3/4ths of the hitch hole which is more than enough for the lock that's included with the hitch. It's also a welcome addition as there is no more velcroing the hitch rack to the hitch. With the hitch lock on, there's no way the rack can fully slide out from the hitch if the ball mechanism were to loosen too much.

    That slot seemed like a clever design, but making it not centered is pretty deceiving since it will not line up with standard hitch holes. This means you're stuck with using the included lock, which for me doesn't fit on my hitch.

  157. #3757
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    I'm sure the answer is "no problems," but ...

    I'm looking at a couple of these new loooong 29'ers -- Ibis Ripmo and Yeti SB150 to be specific. I put a large Ripmo with 2.6" tires on the rack for a demo on Saturday. There seemed to be not a lot of purchase with the arms on the wheels, certainly far less than I'm used to with my 26". And the SB150 is a bit longer still...

    Has there been any issues with these longer bikes on a quick rack? Provide me with some comfort, lol.
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  158. #3758
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    What about getting some replacement "bent arms" and adding a little length to the arms. There are 7 holes in the arms. Cut the bend off of the replacement arms and bolt them to the existing arms with 5 bolts. That will leave two new holes to extend the overall length of the arms. That should allow for the arms to bite a little higher on the wheel.

    I'm not sure if that would be needed and it will cost $80 plus hardware, but it should help ease your worries.

  159. #3759
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    Just used my 1up 2 bike rack for the first time (4 hours round trip). Performed flawlessly and was extremely happy with how secure the bikes were and there was zero movement while driving.

  160. #3760
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    I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.

    Last edited by ahkim; 2 Weeks Ago at 08:13 PM.

  161. #3761
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahkim View Post
    Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble.
    May very well not lead to any serious problems, but yeah, I would be a little unnerved too after seeing that. I'll probably be in the market for a new bike and rack in the coming year, and the Ripley and 1up are very high on the list. It does seem that if the clamp arms were just a bit longer, stability might improve. Maybe I just don't remember, but it doesn't seem like I've heard many others with big tired 29ers having this problem?

  162. #3762
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahkim View Post
    I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.

    https://youtu.be/ZWo_V5dzryo
    Have you contacted 1Up about that and showed them the video? Curious to hear what they have to say.


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  163. #3763
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahkim View Post
    I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.

    https://youtu.be/ZWo_V5dzryo
    My Evil Offering does the same thing, absolutely ridiculous.

  164. #3764
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    Quote Originally Posted by cjsb View Post
    Have you contacted 1Up about that and showed them the video? Curious to hear what they have to say.


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    I have not reached out to 1up but I will. I might have a video from my rear dash cam when it was VERY wobbly, to show them how bad it can be. I love the rack but if this happens even 25% of the time, I guess I'll be looking for a new rack again.
    Last edited by ahkim; 2 Weeks Ago at 05:52 AM.

  165. #3765
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    I've always seen a bit of wobble on mine, more so with 29ers. I think seeing it through the cam makes it look worse than it does in the mirrors. Never hurt anything.

  166. #3766
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    I wonder if due to the combination of longer wheelbases and larger tires on 29ers, the arms are now just a bit too short to provided enough stability in these circumstances. I believe if the arms are lengthened an inch or two and allowed to come up higher on the wheel, stability would increase.

    @ahkim: Curious to know what size Ripley you have?

  167. #3767
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    I wonder if due to the combination of longer wheelbases and larger tires on 29ers, the arms are now just a bit too short to provided enough stability in these circumstances. I believe if the arms are lengthened an inch or two and allowed to come up higher on the wheel, stability would increase.

    @ahkim: Curious to know what size Ripley you have?
    Also, a velcro strap over the wheel and the rack tray makes a big difference. I have a couple from the kuat fatbike kits that work on 1up racks, too. But the wobble is not a big deal. I have driven thousands of miles with no trouble.

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  168. #3768
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harold View Post
    Also, a velcro strap over the wheel and the rack tray makes a big difference. I have a couple from the kuat fatbike kits that work on 1up racks, too. But the wobble is not a big deal. I have driven thousands of miles with no trouble.

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    Yeah, I see where strapping that front wheel in a second location would help prevent wheel twist.

    What's the longest/biggest bike you are hauling?

  169. #3769
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    What's the longest/biggest bike you are hauling?
    Iíve logged thousands of miles with a L Banshee Prime and a XL Yeti 5.5. Both shod with big AM tires.

  170. #3770
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    What's the longest/biggest bike you are hauling?
    2 big bikes. Salsa Bucksaw 26 x 4 and a Guerrilla Gravity Pedalhead in 29 x 2.6" flavor. I put the Pedalhead in my 1up tray with the fatbike kit and my wife's Juliana Furtado goes in the other. Less wobble on her bike. Less wobble on my Bucksaw. More wobble on the Pedalhead in the wide tray with the fatbike kit. A strap calms the wobble a lot.

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  171. #3771
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    When I first got my 1Up it had a slight up/down wobble no matter how tight I cranked it. On one of the threads here it was suggested to lift the rack up while tightening. Wobble disappeared for me. ymmv

  172. #3772
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    Quote Originally Posted by Alafia View Post
    When I first got my 1Up it had a slight up/down wobble no matter how tight I cranked it. On one of the threads here it was suggested to lift the rack up while tightening. Wobble disappeared for me. ymmv
    watch the video. not the same wobble.

  173. #3773
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    I wonder if due to the combination of longer wheelbases and larger tires on 29ers, the arms are now just a bit too short to provided enough stability in these circumstances. I believe if the arms are lengthened an inch or two and allowed to come up higher on the wheel, stability would increase.

    @ahkim: Curious to know what size Ripley you have?
    Yes, that would help I think. I know just by pushing on my 26" Enduro vs. the longer 29'ers, I can tell that there is less movement with the 26. The 26 inch bike is shorter and smaller wheels and so the arm reaches nearly to the top of each tire.

    On the 29er, the arm grips the tire well in front of the axle and so the fork can easily twist. On the 26 inch, being near the axle, there is much less twist. I mean, push on the front of your tire and the middle of the tire and see which makes the bars turn easier.

    Good to know others are having no issues with long 29 inch bikes on the rack. That is comforting.
    '11 Specialized Enduro Expert for the trails
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  174. #3774
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    So now I need to use a wheel strap on my brand new fairly pricey rack if I don't want my bike to wobble all over?? I'm only keeping this thing because it fits my Jeep better than anything else I've tried.

  175. #3775
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Iíve logged thousands of miles with a L Banshee Prime and a XL Yeti 5.5. Both shod with big AM tires.
    Multiple 12-18 hour days on the road with this combination without issue.



    The 5.5 is longer, and now I have the fatbike spacers, but still no issues on 12 hour drives.


  176. #3776
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    Does this thread have more responses than most any bike on these forums---crazy---I have a 5 year old model and no issues beyond getting rear ended and crushing the first one.

  177. #3777
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    Quote Originally Posted by evasive View Post
    Multiple 12-18 hour days on the road with this combination without issue.



    The 5.5 is longer, and now I have the fatbike spacers, but still no issues on 12 hour drives.
    I'm sure there won't be any issues, I still don't have to like it. It just shouldn't wobble so much for how much it cost. I'm happy your happy but people need to know all the facts and there is a chance the bike could move around quit a bit.

  178. #3778
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    Quote Originally Posted by pctloper View Post
    Does this thread have more responses than most any bike on these forums---crazy---I have a 5 year old model and no issues beyond getting rear ended and crushing the first one.
    Yes. Just my opinion as to why: the vast majority of new owners are blown away by the rack compared to what they used previously.

    It sets expectations very high, but all of these racks from all companies have trade-offs. Roof rack, trunk rack, hitch rack, suction cups, cross bar/hanger rod, tail gate, or DIY fork mounts somewhere on your vehicle. All have trade-offsónone are perfect.

    If one of those trade-offs really bothers a person, or it actually impacts negatively how they use it, then Iíd be miffed too if it wasnít really apparent until after I started using it.

    The post above of the video showing the sway, it would concern me, too. Still, I can either send it back with no shipping cost within 60 days, or i can try and get some resolution from 1Up, i.e., ask for some money back or an accessory (make some lemonade). I can also try my own fix and see if i can live with it. If the latter doesnít work for me and itís past the 60 days, then I can try and sell it, which wonít be a problem.

    If it were me, I would ask 1UP whether I got a lemon and should ship back for a replacement (free of all charge to me), ask them how it can be best addressed, or demand an accessory for free if I have to live with it and itís past free shipping full refund time and they still wonít take it back for free.

    Another reason the thread gets so many ďclaimsĒ, which isnít the case here, is that 1UP is a small company that put a big dent in rack sales for the competition, even when 1UP was charging so-called outrageously higher prices. So a few hacks have posted with countless issues, some even staging the rack detaching from the vehicle...




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  179. #3779
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    You're not able to see the back end of the bike wobbling in the video, so there may not be enough room, but I think I would try moving the bike back in the rack to get the front arm up as high as possible on the front wheel. The wobbling does appear to be originating from twist in the front wheel.

  180. #3780
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    del

  181. #3781
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    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.

    Quote Originally Posted by ahkim View Post
    I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.

    I have been using my 1up rack for about a year now. Very few racks will fit my super long XXL Hightower 50in wheel base. I run 2.6 front and 2.35 rear tires. The arms being lower on the wheels does lead to some wobble but it has never been major issue for me. I drive 90 miles per day sometimes 3 days a week with my bike at high speeds. It wobbles, really bad when passing a big rig at 80mph, but its not going anywhere. Im sure 1Up will update this rack at some point to fit the longer bike / bike tire trend a bit better, but you bike is not going to fall off by any means. Still hands down the best rack out there. Best customer service also..... IMO

  182. #3782
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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    I'm sure there won't be any issues, I still don't have to like it. It just shouldn't wobble so much for how much it cost. I'm happy your happy but people need to know all the facts and there is a chance the bike could move around quit a bit.
    Cool story, bro. The question

    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    What's the longest/biggest bike you are hauling?
    was asked, and I provided an answer based on my experience.

  183. #3783
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    You're not able to see the back end of the bike wobbling in the video, so there may not be enough room, but I think I would try moving the bike back in the rack to get the front arm up as high as possible on the front wheel. The wobbling does appear to be originating from twist in the front wheel.
    That's a great idea. I'll try to move my bike so it clamps high on the front wheel. I'll report back.

    As I previously mentioned, the video does not show how bad it was, it was moving 2-4 times as much and I was worried about the other bike scratching my bike.

    My bike is Medium.

  184. #3784
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahkim View Post
    I've been searching for a rack and bought the Kuat nv2.0 2 bike, Saris Superclamp EX 4 bike, and the 1up 2 bike Superduty with 2 add ons. Love the 1up but the I've had some major wobble or swaying of my 29er bike. The video shows the wobble before it got really bad, I stopped and checked and everything was tight. My bike is the new Ibis Ripley v4 with 29" x 2.6" tires and it seems like the clamp arms don't clamp high enough on the wheels. My kids bike and older 26" wheeled bike don't wobble. Just wondering if others are experiencing the same thing.

    Wow, have never seen this with my bikes, but these are all hardtails, including 29+ Stache, 29, 27.5, and 24. I suspect the wobble is caused, or made worse, by rear suspension of the bike. Can it be be locked down? If yes, is the wobble same bad?

  185. #3785
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    Quote Originally Posted by kosulin View Post
    Wow, have never seen this with my bikes, but these are all hardtails, including 29+ Stache, 29, 27.5, and 24. I suspect the wobble is caused, or made worse, by rear suspension of the bike. Can it be be locked down? If yes, is the wobble same bad?
    It isn't the suspension. It is because of how the rack is designed -- I don't think they have changed this rack much in 10 years, before long 29'ers were even a thing, lol. The longer the bike is, the less purchase the arms have on the wheel -- they can't reach anywhere near the top of the wheels. Look at the video and the arm on the front wheel. It is covering like 20% of the wheel is all. It looks like you could just about pick the bike up out of the rack without undoing the arm. You couldn't, but if it were just a little bit lower you could. On my 26" bike, the arm reaches to nearly the top of the front (and rear) wheel. Maybe when I get home I can post a picture of the 26" bike to compare. If the arms were, say, 2" longer, I think it would be in there as securely as shorter bikes are.

    I think the wiggle is originating from the front. I am going to do as mentioned and get the arm up as high as I can on the front wheel. Well, when I get my bike, that is! That should prevent the handlebars/fork from twisting.
    '11 Specialized Enduro Expert for the trails
    '13 Felt Z4 for the road

  186. #3786
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tystevens View Post
    It isn't the suspension. It is because of how the rack is designed -- I don't think they have changed this rack much in 10 years, before long 29'ers were even a thing, lol. The longer the bike is, the less purchase the arms have on the wheel -- they can't reach anywhere near the top of the wheels. Look at the video and the arm on the front wheel. It is covering like 20% of the wheel is all. It looks like you could just about pick the bike up out of the rack without undoing the arm. You couldn't, but if it were just a little bit lower you could. On my 26" bike, the arm reaches to nearly the top of the front (and rear) wheel. Maybe when I get home I can post a picture of the 26" bike to compare. If the arms were, say, 2" longer, I think it would be in there as securely as shorter bikes are.

    I think the wiggle is originating from the front. I am going to do as mentioned and get the arm up as high as I can on the front wheel. Well, when I get my bike, that is! That should prevent the handlebars/fork from twisting.
    I have never experienced this with my bike, and i have one of the longer FS bike - Kona Process 153 29 size XL. I've never locked my suspension, and everything is solid, even on highway speed. It obviously will wobble if you go through rough back-roads. The way the rack is designed, unless the two arms "failed" and open up, i don't see any way the bike can fly out of the carrier.
    Kona Process 153 29er

  187. #3787
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    And for what it's worth, for my bike, each arm does 5 clicks to secure the bike. I have 2.5 WT front and 2.3 rear tires, both minion DHF
    Kona Process 153 29er

  188. #3788
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahkim View Post
    That's a great idea. I'll try to move my bike so it clamps high on the front wheel. I'll report back.

    As I previously mentioned, the video does not show how bad it was, it was moving 2-4 times as much and I was worried about the other bike scratching my bike.

    My bike is Medium.
    Agree that this is a great suggestion. In the video looked like arm is dwarfed by front wheel.

    I never thought about wobble but notice on mine that sometimes I press arm on front wheel too hard and the front half if tray pivots. I eased back on force and started making sure the arm was higher on front wheel v. Rear.

    Sent from my moto x4 using Tapatalk

  189. #3789
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    Quote Originally Posted by aski View Post
    You're not able to see the back end of the bike wobbling in the video, so there may not be enough room, but I think I would try moving the bike back in the rack to get the front arm up as high as possible on the front wheel. The wobbling does appear to be originating from twist in the front wheel.
    This seemed to help some with mine, thanks!!

  190. #3790
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    Bump.

  191. #3791
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    Sent email to 1Up about sway and bounce

    I'm posting as an FYI but I sent an email to 1Up asking if what I'm experiencing is normal.

    I finally used my 1Up with 4 bikes and it was very nerve racking to see how much the entire rack seemed to bounce. As I mentioned in my email to 1Up, I love the product, but I don't feel good about using it. My Kuat NV2.0 and Saris Superclamp 4 didn't have these issues.

    Here's a video showing the bounce with 4 bikes, do you guys get the same with your 1Up?





    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-2019-06-19-00_38_39-photo-google-photos.jpg  

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-2019-06-19-00_38_55-photo-google-photos.jpg  


  192. #3792
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahkim View Post
    I'm posting as an FYI but I sent an email to 1Up asking if what I'm experiencing is normal.

    I finally used my 1Up with 4 bikes and it was very nerve racking to see how much the entire rack seemed to bounce. As I mentioned in my email to 1Up, I love the product, but I don't feel good about using it. My Kuat NV2.0 and Saris Superclamp 4 didn't have these issues.

    Here's a video showing the bounce with 4 bikes, do you guys get the same with your 1Up?
    When I had a two bike 1up it didn't bounce like that but did have a lot of sway like in your other video. That is one of the reasons I sold it and now use a Saris Superclamp instead. What didn't you like about your Superclamp 4 that made you get the 1up instead?

    The bounce is likely related to the excessive weight you have hanging off your hitch; a fully loaded 4 bike 1up is heavy, and with that long of a cantilever, you could be exceeding the tongue weight of your hitch. The hitch itself could be flexing, or even the vehicle structure, depending on how the hitch is mounted.

  193. #3793
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    Is that a 1.25 in hitch? ^^^ that may be part of the issue?

  194. #3794
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    t
    Quote Originally Posted by ahkim View Post
    I finally used my 1Up with 4 bikes and it was very nerve racking to see how much the entire rack seemed to bounce. As I mentioned in my email to 1Up, I love the product, but I don't feel good about using it. My Kuat NV2.0 and Saris Superclamp 4 didn't have these issues.
    Same car with the old racks? Guessing not.
    --------------

    [WTB] 1987 Cannondale SM800, 20", Pink with airbrushed graphics.

  195. #3795
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    I see the 2" 1up bounce with 4 bikes, and do not worry much. This is aluminum, it flexes.

  196. #3796
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    Quote Originally Posted by JustMtnB44 View Post
    When I had a two bike 1up it didn't bounce like that but did have a lot of sway like in your other video. That is one of the reasons I sold it and now use a Saris Superclamp instead. What didn't you like about your Superclamp 4 that made you get the 1up instead?

    The bounce is likely related to the excessive weight you have hanging off your hitch; a fully loaded 4 bike 1up is heavy, and with that long of a cantilever, you could be exceeding the tongue weight of your hitch. The hitch itself could be flexing, or even the vehicle structure, depending on how the hitch is mounted.
    The main reason I bought the 1Up is the ability to convert from 2 to 3 to 4 bikes. The add ons store in their box and are out of sight in my garage. I later found out they sell a piece that allows you to convert the rack into a 2 bike.

    Quote Originally Posted by apnk View Post
    Is that a 1.25 in hitch? ^^^ that may be part of the issue?
    It's the 2" rack/hitch.

    Quote Originally Posted by J_Westy View Post

    t

    Same car with the old racks? Guessing not.
    Same car with all 3 racks. The only change is that I swapped my Tesla tow hitch to another brand because the Tesla hitch has a quick release receiver which limits the tongue weight. The new hitch has a 700 lbs tongue weight. The Saris did not move at all so it has something to do with the 1Up.

    I received an email from 1Up and they said the movement is normal behavior. They offer something called a Quik Slide which I couldn't find on their webpage. They say it can help with larger longer bikes. They also suggested to tighten down the wheel clamps further.

    As for bounce, they said to tighten down the bolts on the side as the notches allow for some movement.

    I'll report back after I try these things.

    1up Quick Rack Quick Review.-xfa2f32.png

  197. #3797
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    I like the look of those Quick slides, let me know if you find a way to order them.

  198. #3798
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    Quote Originally Posted by ahkim View Post
    Same car with all 3 racks. The only change is that I swapped my Tesla tow hitch to another brand because the Tesla hitch has a quick release receiver which limits the tongue weight. The new hitch has a 700 lbs tongue weight. The Saris did not move at all so it has something to do with the 1Up.

    I received an email from 1Up and they said the movement is normal behavior.

    As for bounce, they said to tighten down the bolts on the side as the notches allow for some movement.
    Well, I agree with 1up that it's normal, but it does look unsettling. We had the same on my wife's Wrangler.

    Some contributors:
    - 1up has a lot of space between bikes so the moment/torque/twisting-force is higher than some other racks
    - Al isn't as stiff as steel (for the same size)
    - The way the verticle part of your hitch hangs down it makes the moment arm effectively a little longer

    Don't sweat it, but can you insert the rack farther into the receiver?
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  199. #3799
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    After 8 years with a Super Duty Double, I ordered a new 1-1/4 single tray so I would not have to keep switching from vehicle to vehicle (first world problems, right?) .

    1-Up is still great. Period. The lightweight, low-profile single is awesome for everyday use.

    If you are reading this because you are considering a rack >> my vote is (still) 1-Up.

  200. #3800
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    after watching the vid, that is nor more or less than I experience with Super Duty Double on my RAV 4, (3 years old rack; 2" Reese aftermarket hitch installed at my local mechanic; Surly Krampus 29+ and Fuji Nevada 26er are the bikes that are usually on the rack) and have never had any trouble with the bikes getting damaged, or the rack coming out...

    80% of my usage is "in town" on the way to the trail sites, so road conditions range from great to scary;

    the other 20% is on vacation in Michigan or the Adirondacks on gravel/fire roads (after High way travel getting there) and even on the fire roads, I never worry...

    granted, I rarely hit RR tracks as fast as you did, even with nothing on my car, and on the fire roads, if you travel faster than 25mph, the whole car will come apart...so there is some common sense that I think the companies assume people are going to use when driving and using their products
    Go practice. Figure it out. - Fleas

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