Setting up my Strive cable/hose routing for right hand front brake 'moto' styleee- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Setting up my Strive cable/hose routing for right hand front brake 'moto' styleee

    My Strive came with all the cables & hoses routed for euro style left handed front brake and dropper lever on the right. This didn't suit my need for a right hand front brake set up. I also wanted the dropper post on the left. This meant rerouting a lot of the cables and hoses. There was a distinct lack of information available when I did it and Canyon Australia were less than helpful too so I thought I'd share what I did and what I found out along the way to save others the trouble.

    My bike is a 2016 CF Race 9.0 with a 1x11 drive train. The cables/hoses that are routed through the frame are the rear brake hose, rear mech cable, reverb hose and shapeshifter cable.



    They all enter the frame through 2 aluminium mouldings integrated into the frame just behind the head tube. Each mounding has 3 holes each with a different size hole and specification but they are mirrored (I.e same each side).



    Top tip - if you are looking to mess with the cable/hose routing it's worth dropping the forks down so you get access to the head tube to see what you are doing. Have a good look around in here when you are making your plan.

    The 3 ports have distinct uses and associated specifications. The top one is designed for the reverb routing. In my bike it's not just a hose going through the port, behind it is an aluminium tube with a corrugated plastic guide tube that I assume is to both help guide the reverb hose and protect it in the frame

    Here is a picture of the full assembly



    The lower one towards the back is for standard cables and hoses (like the rear brake). There are rubber grommets that fit around the hose to both protect the outer and seal the hole.

    The lower front port is very different. It's used for cables only. You can see it here



    For the rear mech my outer runs from the RH shifter to the left hand lower front port and stops. The cable then runs through the frame inside a thin plastic pipe to another stop below the BB. Fortunately I haven't had to reroute this. I may look to setting it up with full cable outers in the future but it can wait for now

    So I needed to move the following cables/hoses

    Shapeshifter cable from lower back RH port to lower front RH port

    Rear brake hose from lower back LH port to lower back RH port

    Reverb from top LH to top RH port

    The big problem was that lower front RH port. Something had to go through it. Designed for a cable to a front mech but I wanted a full outer to the shapeshifter or rear brake hose.

    I decided to tackle the shapeshifter cable first as the port was free and I had all the tooling to hand.

    It's a pain. You have to take apart the rocker to access the shapeshifter cable. I chopped the cable inner by the SS piston, pulled it through and binned it. With the forks out so I could see properly I then (very very carefully and slowly) drilled out the stop in the lower front RH port enough to allow a full cable outer through (yes you read that right, I took a drill to my new carbon frame mildly terrifying). I then gently pushed the cable outer in from the head tube end just enough to be able to pop it from the lower back RH port to the front one next to it. Pretty easy. From there I reassembled everything and went for a ride to recover from the stress of the drilling.

    For the next job I need a bleed kit for my brakes.

    The rear brake needed moving from the lower back LH port to the (newly freed up) lower back RH port.

    Simple enough once you have all the tools to hand (for me the key to this was a Guide bleed kit). Drop out the forks for visibility and enabling you to get your fingers in there. Disconnect the brake hose at the lever, push it into the port and then fiddle it across to the opposite port before reconnecting to the lever. The rubber grommet can be put on afterwards if you forget to thread it on before reconnecting the lever

    Note: be careful not to spill any dot brake fluid during this process. Have some tissues and water to clean up any that does straight away, it's nasty stuff.

    Last up was the reverb. I needed a reverb bleed kit to do this. I think even with a connectamajig I would need one too

    I tried to avoid disconnecting the actual reverb hose ends to do this but they wouldn't fit through the port assembly pictured above so one had to come off to leave just a bare hose. After a bit of procrastination I decided to take off the end that connects into the seat post though with hindsight that may have caused more faff because of the rethreading through the frame. The ending on the seat tube end just felt more robust.

    To take the ends off the reverb hose you just unscrew them once they are disconnected.

    I'd definitely recommend the lever end.

    Disconnect hose from lever. Be careful not to spill any hydraulic oil (but it's a lot less neatly that dot fluid). Unscrew tomremive the fitting on the end of the hose, unscrew and remove the small knurled nut on the end of the reverb frame port assembly. Push the hose into the fitting and push that all into the frame. With your fingers in through the head tube move it to the RH top port and wiggle it through. You will probably need to move the seat post up and down a fair bit to complete this and a helpful helper would be useful to assist with this. I used a metal skewer to help line up the assembly to get it back through the frame. As with all internal frame hose/cable routing tasks a lot of cursing was involved.

    Once the aluminium insert is through pop on the shaped piece and then the knurled nut (I put some loctite on the thread as it has curated loose several times to date). Push the hose through and reconnect to the lever.

    So now I have a nice neat correctly routed cable/hose set up. Makes me quite happy.

    On the right side of my bars I have the front brake and rear shifter. Of these the rear shifter is the only one that routes through the frame and it hasn't needed to move from its original place through the lower front LH port

    On the left side I have the rear brake (lower rear RH port), reverb lever (top RH port) and shapeshifter (lower front RH (drilled) port)



    The original plugs to fill the spare holes have gone awol but Canyon Australia are sending me a couple.

    Only job I want to do is change my existing reverb button for one of the new levers. The current layout works fine but the SS could less clumsy. With a new reverb lever it would all be very sweeeet






    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  2. #2
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    Love the write-up Ian! Well done mate

    I took to my old Mach 429c frame with a drill to internally route a reverb hose a few years ago.. pretty scary stuff hahah

  3. #3
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    Thank you very much! Very interesting.

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