Canyon Strive 7.0 -> 8.0 worth the cost?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    New question here. Canyon Strive 7.0 -> 8.0 worth the cost?

    I am about to place an order for a Canyon Strive 7.0, but I want to make sure I'm not being penny wise and pound foolish by not springing for the 8.0.

    I'm coming from a 2015 Giant Trance 3, and even though I've upgraded nearly all of the components on it, either Strive (7 or 8) would be a major upgrade for me. I ride around the Laguna Hills, so lots of steep, chunky, dry trails and rock gardens. At this point, I can afford the Strive 7, but would consider a bit of creative financial maneuvering to get the Strive 8 if it means a better selection for the long-term.

    This link should bring up a comparison chart for these two models, but I will summarize the differences below (note, I am only listing what is different between the two builds):

    Strive 7.0 Strive 8.0
    Price $4000 $5000
    Rear shock Rockshox Monarch Plus Fox Factory Float X EVOL
    Fork Rockshox Lyrik RCT3 Fox 36 Float Factory
    Shifter/derailleur SRAM GX Eagle SRAM X01 Eagle
    Cassette SRAM XG-1275 SRAM XG-1295
    Crankset Truvativ Descendant (aluminum) Truvativ Descendant Carbon
    Brakes SRAM Guide R SRAM Code RSC
    Wheelset DT-Swiss Spline EX 1700 (with DT-Swiss 350 hub) DT-Swiss Spline EX 1501 (with DT-Swiss 240 hub)





    I know that a lot of the difference comes down to Rockshox vs. Fox, which I don't have enough personal experience to have an opinion on one way or the other. For whatever it's worth, I am a heavier rider, though I've heard it go both ways (some say Fox is better for heavier riders, some say Rockshox). Maybe I should have posted this in the shocks section of the forum, but there are a gazillion Rockshox vs. Fox threads out there, without much in the way of resolution. Sounds like a Coke vs. Pepsi debate to me.

    In terms of the rest of the components, I believe a lot of the difference comes down to weight. I'm not all to concerned about small weight differences, since I'm not trying to race or anything. But I do ride fairly frequently (4 or 5 days per week) and fairly hard (I weigh a lot, and am not the most gentle or graceful rider), so I am interested in having components that will last me for a long time and not wear down too quickly.

    Would spending the additional $1000 now end up saving me money in the long run when it comes to servicing and replacing parts? I know there is no "right" answer here, but I am interested in whatever opinions anyone might have. Thanks in advance.

  2. #2
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    On that I world go 7.0

    Rockshox set up is excellent (I have the fox set up listed)

    I replaced my carbon cranks with alloy because I have seen too many expensive carbon cranks busted (pedal inserts).

    I've got the guide RSC and they are great. I don't use the extra features over the R

    Not sure on the differences between the wheels. All I can say is my 1501's seem to be holding up well after plenty of abuse


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  3. #3
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    I have a friend who has the 8.0. It's a stacked build. It came with the Fox DPX2 in the rear and the new Codes are awesome. The 7.0 should be pretty darn close in fun factor though!

  4. #4
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    I'd say that you'd be hard pressed to tell the difference between both bikes suspension wise, think maybe the RS stuff might be easier to setup. On the shifting, the new GX Eagle has only gotten praise as the absolutely best bang for your buck, money saving no upgrade part on a bike.

    Only place I think you'd see a major difference is with the brakes, not much experience with SRAM stuff, not a fan, but in my reading, the Code RSC will be a major improvement over the Guide Rs (4 pot vs 2), especially for a heavier rider. Whels not sure as they don't list which version of the 1501 you get the 25 or 30 and while cost for the set is nearly double, the weight savings isn't even 200g. So factor in what maybe some new brakes down the line would cost and then take that away from the $1k difference and figure if a bit more carbon and slightly less weight is worth it. Personally I like the colourway on the 7 more than the all black 8.
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  5. #5
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    Cool-blue Rhythm

    Thank you all for your helpful feedback. I decided that the Strive 7.0 is the right choice for me, and I am excited to be receiving it soon!

    I'm glad that I saved $1K rather than spending it to save weight that I don't really care too much about spending (I'm in it to get exercise rather than win races, and the ShapeShifter is already going to give me a huge advantage so I can take a bit of extra weight up the climbs). As LyNx pointed out, the brakes are the thing that I will probably upgrade first, but I don't need to spend an additional $1K off the bat if that's the only really meaningful part for me, especially because I will probably want something other than SRAM brakes when I do upgrade them.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Whels not sure as they don't list which version of the 1501 you get the 25 or 30
    I checked with Canyon on this, and with both models (1700 on the 7.0, 1501 on the 8.0), the front wheel is 30mm ID and the rear is 25mm ID. I've never ridden with different width rims, but it seems like plenty of people do, and I've certainly had different width tires, so why not? The forks equipped on both the Strive 7.0 and 8.0 are boost spacing, and the rear axle is not, so it makes sense that the rims would reflect this.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Personally I like the colourway on the 7 more than the all black 8.
    It's funny that you say that, because I actually prefer the black-on-black myself, but fortunately both builds are available in both color schemes.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Only place I think you'd see a major difference is with the brakes, not much experience with SRAM stuff, not a fan, but in my reading, the Code RSC will be a major improvement over the Guide Rs (4 pot vs 2), especially for a heavier rider.
    Guide R is also 4 pot... Only difference is contact adjust (C) and Swinglink (S)

  7. #7
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    Sorry, you are right, thinking of the new lower end dual pistons, but definitely stuck in my head when reading about the new CODEs is how much more power they seemed to have compared to the Guides. Anyways, none of that matters to me, don't like Avid/SRAM and don't like DOT fluid, so won't ever own any, or recommend them to anyone, Shimano's are much cheaper and much easier to work on if needed.

    Quote Originally Posted by StaxB21 View Post
    Guide R is also 4 pot... Only difference is contact adjust (C) and Swinglink (S)
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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    I got my Strive 7 delivered last night, and I can't wait to ride it this evening! I ordered it Wednesday morning, they shipped it out that afternoon, and because I'm in southern California, I got it the next night.

    My only big complaint, not surprisingly, is the brakes. This is my first experience with SRAM brakes, and I already have a poor first impression before even getting out on the trail. The front rotor rubs, not terribly, but audibly.

    In the past, with my Shimano brakes, I would fix this by loosening the mounting bolts, pulling the lever, and re-tightening the bolts. But this is proving challenging with these Guides, because access to one of the mounting bolts is basically blocked by the caliper body. You can see what I mean in the image below.

    Canyon Strive 7.0 -> 8.0 worth the cost?-mounting_bolt_problem.jpg

    I have an L-shaped allen key, but there isn't even enough space to get the short side inserted properly. I supposed I should be posting this in the brakes forum, to see what other Guide users have done about this.

    My only other minor complaint is that it's set up for the Reverb remote to be on the top right. This is a pretty useless position for it to be in. I plan to replace the plunger-style remote with one of the new 1x levers, but I'm not looking forward to redoing the stealth routing to get the cable to the enter the frame on the right side.

    Aside from that, everything is great. I was pleasantly surprised to find the DT Swiss rims already taped for tubeless; I just needed to yank out the tubes, install some valves, and add sealant. The ShapeShifter seems to work quite well in my brief spin around the parking lot; I'm looking forward to testing it on the trail this evening.

  9. #9
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    I haven't had the brake adjustment problem with mine. Will have a look this morning

    For cable routing see my post here for info

    Setting up my Strive cable/hose routing for right hand front brake 'moto' styleee

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...8&share_type=t


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  10. #10
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    I've got the new 1x lever and love it




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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by iggs View Post
    For cable routing see my post here for info

    Setting up my Strive cable/hose routing for right hand front brake 'moto' styleee

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...8&share_type=t
    Yes, thanks! I did see that thread and plan to use it as a guide once my 1x lever arrives. Did I understand correctly that if I drop down the fork so I can access through the head tube, then I can avoid disconnecting the cable from the seat post itself? I would just unscrew the metal end of the guide tube assembly, move the internal part to the other side, and screw it back in? Or does the metal end not detach, such that I will have no choice but to detach from the post and slide the entire cable out through the front?

  12. #12
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    OP, with regards to the brakes and accessing the lower bolt, don't worry about it, just loosen both and then tighten the top down tight and work on the lower once the caliper is fairly tight. I've not worked on a lot of SRAM brakes in the last few years, everyone is on Shimano now, but the one bike I worked on, can't recall accessing the lower bolt being that much of a PITA, regular allen key worked AFAIR, although I do also have a shorter than normal 5mm that I may have used. What you really need is one the ball head allen wrenches that allow you to use it even at an angle.
    Quote Originally Posted by Harold
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    Thanks, LyNx, for the good advice. I posted about the brakes in the Brake Time forum, and got some good feedback there. It turns out this is just a design flaw on certain revisions of the Guides. I managed to get everything aligned and spinning silently for now, but I'm looking forward to upgrading the brakes in the near future. Speaking of which, in the end, I am very happy I saved $1K and got the 7.0, because now I have enough money to get some great brakes (that I'm pretty sure I will like better than the Codes on the Strive 8.0), along with the 1x lever for the dropper, the 54t upgrade for the DT Swiss freehub, and torque caps for the front hub.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by iggs View Post
    I've got the new 1x lever and love it




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    (Apologies in advance for drifting off-topic)

    Iggs - objectively...do you think your setup with the Reverb 1X remote works well with the current design of the Shapeshifter lever?

    That Shapeshifter is out of reach when mounted inboard of a SRAM brake lever. I've tried it. That said, does it function if you mount it outboard of the Reverb 1X remote and brake lever clamp?

    Because of this concern, and the fact I can't get a Reverb 1X through my distributors to try it out, I just used an original version left-hand Reverb Remote. This is still not optimal. So, I plan on replacing the Shapeshifter lever with another dropper post cable-style remote. This is what F. Barely has done on his bikes in the past. (That style of lever Canyon uses for the Shapeshifter requires space above and below the bar to pivot; it's not ideal)

    Canyon Strive 7.0 -> 8.0 worth the cost?-img_0565.jpg

    On the OP's question, here are my opinions:

    1) Suspension: the Fox DPX2 is the latest, top shelf product from an excellent company I love to hate. That shock has functionality and specs that raise the bar for trail bike shocks. On the front end I actually prefer Lyriks and Pikes with a Charger damper over the Fox stuff. I feel the same on my Downhill bikes...preferring the Boxxer over the 40. We have all of this stuff in our DoubleBlackBikes fleet. (www.doubleblackbikes.com)
    2) Brakes: the new Codes function much better than the Guides in my limited time on them so far. Not as powerful as Shimano Zee or Saint, but...I didn't even really think about them when using them. That's a good sign.
    3) Drivetrain: I don't think cranks or cassette really matter much on trail bikes except for cutting weight. The GX stuff is good, maybe not as durable, I've bent an RD with a stick in my spokes.

    Brakes and Suspension tip my opinion over to the decision the 8.0 was worth it.Canyon Strive 7.0 -> 8.0 worth the cost?-img_0568.jpg


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  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by oldranger View Post
    Brakes and Suspension tip my opinion over to the decision the 8.0 was worth it.
    Thanks for the feedback. I ended up going with the 7.0, because I didn't know enough to have a strong preference for Fox over Rockshox suspension, and wasn't too keen on the Codes either. I used some of the money I saved for a pair of Zee brakes (and a pair of MisMatch adapters for a cleaner cockpit), the 1x Reverb lever, the 56 tooth star ratchet upgrade kit for the freehub, torque caps for the front hub (mostly to make it easier to put the front wheel back on since I have a fork mount roof rack), and an Aggresor tire for the rear (the semi-slick is nice and fast, but I need a little more bite for the dusty Southern California trails).

    I think it was the right decision for me, given my relative lack of experience with different suspension brands. One day in the future, I might find that I prefer Fox, but I won't really know that until I've had some good solid experience with RockShox, which I'm getting now. Plus I really value all of the upgrades I just mentioned, and wouldn't have been able to make them without the $1K savings in the 7.0 vs. the 8.0.

    Quote Originally Posted by oldranger View Post
    Iggs - objectively...do you think your setup with the Reverb 1X remote works well with the current design of the Shapeshifter lever?

    That Shapeshifter is out of reach when mounted inboard of a SRAM brake lever. I've tried it. That said, does it function if you mount it outboard of the Reverb 1X remote and brake lever clamp?

    I can chime in on this: The ShapeShifter remote definitely works better mounted outboard with the Reverb 1x lever. Frankly, I find it much more comfortable there anyway. I've attached a photo of the left side of my cockpit, which I am quite pleased with. The Timber bell is a must for the multi-use trails around here. The key with that is to keep it a little loose on the bar. It's just tight enough to stay in place during normal use, but I can easily rotate it and scoot it to the side without needing to loosen the bolt, which would otherwise be blocked by the brake reservoir in the current position.

    Canyon Strive 7.0 -> 8.0 worth the cost?-img_0802_new.jpg

    The only tricky part was re-routing the Reverb hose to enter the frame on the right side rather than the left side. Inside the frame, the hydraulic hose is inside of a wider, ridged hose (it is both ridged AND rigid), so I needed both of my hands to move it from one side of the top tube to the other. One hand reaching in through the top of the head tube, the other reaching in through the bottom (with the fork dropped out, of course). At first, I tried doing this by myself, but it was damned near impossible. Finally, I got a friend to come over and pull the seat post up and down to give me the right amount of slack and then push-back to make this happen. So as long as you have an assistant (or a third hand), it's relatively straightforward.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldranger View Post
    Iggs - objectively...do you think your setup with the Reverb 1X remote works well with the current design of the Shapeshifter lever?

    That Shapeshifter is out of reach when mounted inboard of a SRAM brake lever. I've tried it. That said, does it function if you mount it outboard of the Reverb 1X remote and brake lever clamp?

    Because of this concern, and the fact I can't get a Reverb 1X through my distributors to try it out, I just used an original version left-hand Reverb Remote. This is still not optimal. So, I plan on replacing the Shapeshifter lever with another dropper post cable-style remote. This is what F. Barely has done on his bikes in the past. (That style of lever Canyon uses for the Shapeshifter requires space above and below the bar to pivot; it's not ideal)

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Ive adjusted the set up so that the shapeshifter is now outside of the brake/dropper bracket



    This set up feels very intuitive. I use the new 1x lever significantly more than the old plunger style and I donít have to move my hand to access the shapeshifter lever. I ride with my hands on the outside of the bars too




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  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by iggs View Post
    Ive adjusted the set up so that the shapeshifter is now outside of the brake/dropper
    Perfect. Thanks for the picture - I'm happy to see that works and will keep in touch with Canyon to give them feedback on fixing the US Spec. There is no reason a $5K bike should have a sub-par cockpit. With the right feedback they will probably take action when RS is willing to deal on the 1X for Canyon OE. I've been real happy with their customer service so far on a bit of an issue I'm dealing with on the main pivot.


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  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by alkalifly View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    The only tricky part was re-routing the Reverb hose to enter the frame on the right side rather than the left side. Inside the frame, the hydraulic hose is inside of a wider, ridged hose (it is both ridged AND rigid), so I needed both of my hands to move it from one side of the top tube to the other. One hand reaching in through the top of the head tube, the other reaching in through the bottom (with the fork dropped out, of course). At first, I tried doing this by myself, but it was damned near impossible. Finally, I got a friend to come over and pull the seat post up and down to give me the right amount of slack and then push-back to make this happen. So as long as you have an assistant (or a third hand), it's relatively straightforward.
    I went through a full reroute of most of my cables to get things set up the way I wanted them to be. Certainly was a faff

    Setting up my Strive cable/hose routing for right hand front brake 'moto' styleee

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...8&share_type=t


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  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by iggs View Post
    I went through a full reroute of most of my cables to get things set up the way I wanted them to be. Certainly was a faff

    Setting up my Strive cable/hose routing for right hand front brake 'moto' styleee

    https://r.tapatalk.com/shareLink?sha...8&share_type=t


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
    Yes, I definitely used that post for guidance, it was well appreciated! It made me really glad it was just the Reverb that I needed to swap; I didn't need to deal with the rear brake or derailleur cables.

    That said, I am about to switch our the Guide brakes for a pair of Zees, and I'm really not looking forward to dealing with the internal routing there. Honestly, for everything I've heard about how nasty the DOT 5.1 fluid is in the SRAM brakes, I'm probably just going to pay my LBS to do it for me. They give me great service, and they're always hooking me up with help without even charging me anything, it's about time I actually pay them for something, and save myself some hassle.

  20. #20
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    Hey iggs, can you post your finalized cockpit setup over on this other thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/canyon/canyon...p-1057799.html

    I started a dedicated thread for that topic. It's an important one for Strive buyers to find, and frankly also for Canyon to take note of.

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    Quote Originally Posted by oldranger View Post
    Hey iggs, can you post your finalized cockpit setup over on this other thread: http://forums.mtbr.com/canyon/canyon...p-1057799.html

    I started a dedicated thread for that topic. It's an important one for Strive buyers to find, and frankly also for Canyon to take note of.
    Ha ha. I had thought this subject needed a thread of its own but didnít have chance to do it this morning

    Well done I will put my info there


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    Hey oldranger, you've had your CF 8.0 a month and change now... any more thoughts riding wise? IE, do you use the shapeshifter at all (do you like it?!), does it descend better than ______, climb better than ___________ , wish it was/wasn't ___________.


    ...was/am looking at a new SC Bronson, but the Strive looks top shelf parts wise for the money comparatively. The only thing I couldn't figure out was how the cf 8 was 3lbs heavier than a similar equipped bronson (have a v1 now)

    And I kinda like that they use the 'old' hub spacing- I can transfer over that fancy set I paid good coin for.
    Last edited by mrpedal; 11-07-2017 at 09:20 PM. Reason: teh grammars

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrpedal View Post
    Hey oldranger, you've had your CF 8.0 a month and change now... any more thoughts riding wise? IE, do you use the shapeshifter at all (do you like it?!), does it descend better than ______, climb better than ___________ , wish it was/wasn't ___________.
    Sure thing, here are some thoughts in order of most noteworthy. I'm going to skip over the topic of weight since I've never really accepted that lighter is better, other than finding the lightest rims and tires that can survive your riding style.

    1) This may be just a personal experience based on my size being compatible with their Large frame (I'm 6'0" with 34/35 arms) - but this bike puts me in a nearly perfect position fore/aft for aggressive descending and turns, and as a result my confidence is very high on this bike. One of my favorites ever.

    2) Yes, I use the Shapeshifter for climbs and it transforms the bike. This is not hype. I also ride Canfield Bros. bikes including the Balance and the Riot - so I have an opportunity to go back to a downhill oriented geometry, and that experience reinforces the value of being able to adjust geometry and suspension kinematics. The higher BB is obviously an advantage in rocky climbs and perhaps the first beneifit I noticed during climbs. The (effectively) higher spring rate in the climb mode helps conserve energy. If I actually cared about how fast I go up - this may actually be the most import aspect of the bike to me.

    3) More on the Shapeshifter: this is new and different approach to adjustable geometry and quite different than the Jekyll if you've ridden one of them. It takes a bit of reading, watching their videos and thinking to understand the differences if you don't have a change to ride one and just experience it. The Shapeshifter Gas Spring has been known to fail, and I have seen a US 8.0 with a failed one. I bought an extra for $54 from Canyon for my toolbox only because we do race on the bike. If I have one fail, I will send it back and they will warranty it.

    4) Comparisons: This bike climbs better than any 160mm bike I've ever ridden. That's because it's actually a 130mm bike with a BB that is about 2cm higher. It's really not a fair comparison.

    5) What I wish: I wish the main pivot had been properly manufactured. Mine is out of spec by about .5 mm and therefore has some minor play which causes clunking. They will fully warranty this, but I'm waiting for the size Large in the color we have to replace it. It is a bit of a hassle, but their customer support is excellent and frankly not much different of an experience than I would've had working with a bike shop. I'm just going to Fedex store instead to ship it back.

    6) What I wish: I wish they spec'd in with the Reverb 1x Remote (upgrade)

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