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  1. #1
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    Prophet rear hub is a piece of crap

    i rode it less than five time on some easy trail and the rear hub is broken already. I was riding back to my car when i heard some creaking noise coming from the hub. i didn't found the problem until the next day when i was riding to work when the disc was draging and the rim was wobbling. i stop and check the trueness of the rim and find that my drive side bearing are gone or shoot. if i remember correctly, another guy in the forum have the same problem too. sucks the bike is going back to the shop and i'm hoping i could get it back soon.

  2. #2
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    Well, it seems I might find an excuse to buy a pair of Crossmax SL after all...

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  3. #3
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    No good

    Quote Originally Posted by yiucycle
    i rode it less than five time on some easy trail and the rear hub is broken already. I was riding back to my car when i heard some creaking noise coming from the hub. i didn't found the problem until the next day when i was riding to work when the disc was draging and the rim was wobbling. i stop and check the trueness of the rim and find that my drive side bearing are gone or shoot. if i remember correctly, another guy in the forum have the same problem too. sucks the bike is going back to the shop and i'm hoping i could get it back soon.
    What Model Prophet do you have?

    Not that it matters though, as for 05' C-dale nixed the $300 Hugi 240 rear hubs they were putting on the middle of the road MTBs in favor of their own in house brand.
    Most likely to cut costs increase profits.

    I've never had any luck with any of the C-Dale branded or Coda components.

    Elzippo

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elzippo
    Not that it matters though, as for 05' C-dale nixed the $300 Hugi 240 rear hubs they were putting on the middle of the road MTBs in favor of their own in house brand. Most likely to cut costs increase profits.
    The Cannondale branded hubs of the Prophets (and probably other models) are made by Formula this year... not actually in-house. It probably does cut costs as they must be a lot cheaper than DT Hugi hubs (and not as good either sadly).

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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Elzippo
    I've never had any luck with any of the C-Dale branded or Coda components.
    Me too, except for those CODA/Magic motorcycle cranks and C'dale stem.

  6. #6
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    i have the 2000. i still don't believe it broke that fast. at first i thought it was a bent rotor. i going to drop it off today and hope i can get it back within a week.

  7. #7
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    took it to the shop and they told me the freebody is toss. Some how the freehub explode and shoot out all the bearing on the drive side. Formula hub is a piece of crap, hope i get the wheel back soon.

  8. #8
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    hub

    I had the Hugi on my Jeckyl split from flange to flange in a couple months so maybe it's a C dale curse.

  9. #9
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    Prophet rear hub

    I have about 15 - 20 hours of hard riding on my Prophet 2000 and have had no problems wit the hub or anything else. I did lose a freebody on a CrossMax XL rear once and have heard of several others who did too so I don't think that is any better. I have never heard of any problems with the King rear hub so if I ever need a replacement thats where I'll go.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Grandmastermbkr
    I have about 15 - 20 hours of hard riding on my Prophet 2000 and have had no problems wit the hub or anything else. I did lose a freebody on a CrossMax XL rear once and have heard of several others who did too so I don't think that is any better. I have never heard of any problems with the King rear hub so if I ever need a replacement thats where I'll go.
    No doubts the King hubs are among the best available, but the hubs cost as much as some whole wheelsets...

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  11. #11
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    I couldnt agree more....

    Quote Originally Posted by Elzippo

    I've never had any luck with any of the C-Dale branded or Coda components.
    ....oh so true....

    my worst experience was with a mix n mash of some weird bb choice to fit the cdale cranks on my 2000 jekyll. That confused my lbs and me to the extent that the wrong parts were specced and I ended up having to fork out for a replacement for my replacement bb AND new cranks to go with them. Not happy. Always closely compare parts new and old is my takeaway from that.

    ...second worst experience was with CODA expert brakes....as per my mail of a few days ago....what WPOS they were....they went with my trek Y33 to some lucky soul.

    I was eyeing a pair of xmax myself just yesterday too but.......$$$$$$
    R.I.P 26ers....

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowrider
    I had the Hugi on my Jeckyl split from flange to flange in a couple months so maybe it's a C dale curse.
    No Cannondale curse there, I had a customers aftermarket Hugi do the same thing a few months ago, to Hugi's credit though, they replaced it, no reciept, no questions asked. If you have not dealt with it yet, and still have it, Hugi USA in CO, will take care of you!

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by MendonCycleSmith
    No Cannondale curse there, I had a customers aftermarket Hugi do the same thing a few months ago, to Hugi's credit though, they replaced it, no reciept, no questions asked. If you have not dealt with it yet, and still have it, Hugi USA in CO, will take care of you!
    It's a known issue on DT 240 hubs that has been corrected on the 240s hubs.

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  14. #14
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    i got my rear wheel back, it working fine. but i run in to the problem of the rear shifting, seem like the cass. have move over one gear. So now i can't go to the largest cog, every gear is one down from the orginal position. Should i adjust the hub or adjust the rear derailier, it wasn't a problem before they replace the left side bearing?

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by yiucycle
    i got my rear wheel back, it working fine. but i run in to the problem of the rear shifting, seem like the cass. have move over one gear. So now i can't go to the largest cog, every gear is one down from the orginal position. Should i adjust the hub or adjust the rear derailier, it wasn't a problem before they replace the left side bearing?
    Just re-adjust the derailleur, it doesn't take much lateral movement in the cassette to throw it out of adjustment and it's much easier to do. If you're not familiar with derailleur adjustments, get your LBS to do it, they shouldn't charge you for it.

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  16. #16
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    Re:

    Quote Originally Posted by yiucycle
    i got my rear wheel back, it working fine. but i run in to the problem of the rear shifting, seem like the cass. have move over one gear. So now i can't go to the largest cog, every gear is one down from the orginal position. Should i adjust the hub or adjust the rear derailier, it wasn't a problem before they replace the left side bearing?
    Sounds to me like they forgot to reinstall the cassette spacer on the freehub body.

    Elzippo

  17. #17
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    Make sure the cassette is good and tight.

  18. #18
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    I'm not impressed either...

    My freehub started sticking after about a month of ownership. (I've got a Prophet 1000.) I could free it up with the application of the persuader... it's now in the shop.

    Actually I'm not that impressed as a whole. Thus far (3 months in, and I don't ride the bike every week as I also ride/race DH) the list is:

    Bottom jockey wheel completely seized.
    Rattle from forks, cause as yet undetermined - feels like loose headset.
    Sticking freehub.
    Rear QR and seat QR almost impossible to shut - I've tossed them and gone for Salsa.
    Shock bushes gone
    Shock SPV leaking; now won't hold any air (now back at distributor for warranty job).

    The shop have also taken three months to get me a soft spring for my fork... and now they're fitting it I am worried it will be too soft and will bottom out all the time

    With the exception of the SPV leak it's all minor stuff but it's so damn irritating and not what I would expect from a 2200ukp bike. The rear hub and the QRs are just cheap ****.

    Hopefully these are just new-bike niggles and once it's all resolved I will have many happy trouble-free months...

  19. #19
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    rattle and hum

    I see that you are waiting for a new lighter spring so you have probably backed off the preload...is your rattle coming from not enough preload ? I read on this forum that if you dont have enough preload your springs may rattle.
    R.I.P 26ers....

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