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  1. #2901
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    My WTB's are 40mm and I doubt 47mm would fit going by the pic I took last week. Sorry about poor quality. Incidentally notice how my tire is slightly closer to the stay on the right. Wondering why this is. Wheel seems true and belt line is perfect. Didn't make any difference when I reduced the belt tension.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post Your Bad Boy!-img_20181020_160828.jpg  


  2. #2902
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    Just picked up a Garmin Edge 130. Replaced my top cap with a k-edge gravity cap. The k-edge bolt was slightly longer then stock so a little noisy tightening it up. Turned out ok I think.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post Your Bad Boy!-gmin130.jpg  

    Last edited by HankSc0rpi0; 2 Weeks Ago at 10:43 AM.

  3. #2903
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    are you using the 130 with speed/cadence sensors? or just GPS?

  4. #2904
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    Added the cadence sensor to the crank on the non drive side. Will add the speed sensor to the front hub I guess.

  5. #2905
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    Anyone know if the bottom bracket for the 2017-2018 BB is 68 or 73mm? Thanks!

  6. #2906
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    Sorry for really crap photos (poor phone) but is it the 3 bolts in blue you loosen to remove caliper (in order to take front wheel off). I'm familiar with the top 4mm and bottom outside 4mm screws from my 2017 bad boy 3, but noticed there is a bottom inner 3mm bolt which attaches the caliper to the bracket. All circled in blue.

    Also, anyone with a bad boy 1 get that useless belt guard. Mine unclipped from the seat tube first ride so just removed the thing. Looking around the bike it seems it's just 4mm and 5mm everywhere and that 3mm on the caliper. Seems you only need a minimalist mini tool on a ride. In fact I'd call a cab if I ever got a puncture on the back wheel as I don't fancy messing with the gear change cable and having to torque the wheel back up to 30nm+. In fact I'd go as far to say either a cab or just use glueless patches and a mini pump in an emergency. That is why I am keeping thing minimalist as possible.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post Your Bad Boy!-caliper.jpg  

    Post Your Bad Boy!-img_20181027_181040.jpg  

    Post Your Bad Boy!-img_20181027_181114.jpg  

    Post Your Bad Boy!-img_20181027_161956-1-.jpg  


  7. #2907
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    Quote Originally Posted by lithium1330 View Post
    Anyone know if the bottom bracket for the 2017-2018 BB is 68 or 73mm? Thanks!
    My 2019 is 68
    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  8. #2908
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    Anyone put a kick stand on their bad boy. I know they are ugly but useful.

    Wondering if this is the one that will fit. My bad boy 1 2019 has 2 holes near the end of the chainstay which am hoping the plate that comes with the stand would bolt into.

    https://www.cannondale.com/en/USA/Ge...ntid=undefined

  9. #2909
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    Quote Originally Posted by HankSc0rpi0 View Post
    Sorry for really crap photos (poor phone) but is it the 3 bolts in blue you loosen to remove caliper (in order to take front wheel off). I'm familiar with the top 4mm and bottom outside 4mm screws from my 2017 bad boy 3, but noticed there is a bottom inner 3mm bolt which attaches the caliper to the bracket. All circled in blue.

    Also, anyone with a bad boy 1 get that useless belt guard. Mine unclipped from the seat tube first ride so just removed the thing. Looking around the bike it seems it's just 4mm and 5mm everywhere and that 3mm on the caliper. Seems you only need a minimalist mini tool on a ride. In fact I'd call a cab if I ever got a puncture on the back wheel as I don't fancy messing with the gear change cable and having to torque the wheel back up to 30nm+. In fact I'd go as far to say either a cab or just use glueless patches and a mini pump in an emergency. That is why I am keeping thing minimalist as possible.
    1. Hmm, can't really see clearly on your photo, but I'm sure that you just need to unscrew the top and bottom screws that hold the caliper to the mount of the fork. I've got Magura MT2 on my BB1 2018 and no bike to check right now
    2. Don't be so afraid to take the rear wheel. There are lots of Youtube videos on how to remove the rear wheel which has an IGH. Don't worry about the exact torque, just make sure you do it with a nice 15mm spanner.

  10. #2910
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    Quote Originally Posted by fokof View Post
    My 2019 is 68
    Thanks for the info!

  11. #2911
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    Quote Originally Posted by buffet View Post
    1. Hmm, can't really see clearly on your photo, but I'm sure that you just need to unscrew the top and bottom screws that hold the caliper to the mount of the fork. I've got Magura MT2 on my BB1 2018 and no bike to check right now
    2. Don't be so afraid to take the rear wheel. There are lots of Youtube videos on how to remove the rear wheel which has an IGH. Don't worry about the exact torque, just make sure you do it with a nice 15mm spanner.
    Yeah, I had it off already today....had it on a stand. So easy to work on. I'm just saying if I was out on the road and got a puncture on the rear I'd be calling a cab

    In fact I don't even carry a spare tube. All my rides are no more then 20KM in one direction and the roads are main roads so pretty good. Chances of a punture on those tires are slim I'd say, and I reckon I'd be able to patch a tube no problem. I got a matt black fabric pump as a gift today along with this : https://www.topeak.com/global/de/pro...te-ntx--(2018)

    I know all the bolts are 4mm and 5mm so this is overkill but at least can easily go in the side pocket of my tracksuit bottoms. Not much reason to carry anything else.

    Playing with idea of a kick stand but from what I have seen they look a bit pants when fitted and also not even sure the cannondale si one would fit the 2 holes on chain stay.

    Also, thinking about changing the bars. I don't like the gloss bars. Friend suggest to get some nice carbon fibre ones. Wan't to keep the same length (700mm) and there aren't many mtb bars with zero rise and only 8 to 10 degree sweep that are 700mm. These ones spring to mind
    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/truvativ-noir-t30-flat-bars/rp-

    Looks like to get off the stock bars you undo the 2 front bolt and the top pinch bolt. Must have a play around.

    Incidentally if you look at your back wheel is it closer to one of the stays like mine. Post Your Bad Boy!-img_20181020_160828.jpg

  12. #2912
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    @HankSc0rpi0
    Yes, my rear axle looks similar.

    I have a very similar Topeak kit by the way:
    https://www.topeak.com/global/de/pro...ano-torqbar-dx

    For the portable 15mm spanner, you can visit some hip-fixie shop. They usually have short and lightweight spanners for fixed-gear bikes. Or there is a branded solution from Parktool, the SS-15. (not exactly portable to my likes, around 17cm long)
    It's actually easier for me to replace a tube rather than patch it. First of all, I strongly believe that patching is just a temporary fix, so you'd have to replace the tube once you get home. Secondly it's quite fast once you get used to it. I saw people do it on an IGH wheel in under 3 minutes total
    There is a good solution from Fabric - Cageless tool keg:
    https://fabric.cc/products/storage/cageless-tool-keg/
    I use it along with the Cageless bottle. Fits your spare tube, toolkit, some wet napkins and it's waterproof.
    The bars - well, I already shared my opinion on how the glossy sucks compared to the matte finishing of the rest of the bike. But for now I just shortened them from 720 to 680mm.
    For the repair stand I'd recommend X-Tools:
    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod133219
    This is the best of the affordable stands should be more than enough for home use. Hell, I even saw this model used professionally at one the LBS here in Moscow

  13. #2913
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    @buffet. Thanks for the info. That nanobar looks cool. Do you find it allows you to get in everywhere for adjustments. A pity it doesn't ratchet. I got a stand from Aldi which I think it the same stand as the Xtools but different colour scheme. Paid 29 euro

    For some reason my bars are 700mm !! 720mm seems to be the smallest common MTB size. I am going to order the truvativ soon I think as they are 700mm. Looks like you only need to undo the 2 front bolts and the top pinch bolt to release the bars.

    I also have an SS-15 spanner before I got the bike (like to be prepared) but it's a bit heavy and sent it back. I was recommended the park tool mtb 30 which has a 15mm on it. Do you think that would give enough leverage to get rear wheel off on the go ? https://www.parktool.com/product/multi-tool-mt-30 I agree that patching is a temporary fix.

    By the way, I attempted to fit the Fabric cageless 750mm bottle on my seat tube and found because the water bottle bosses are so low down (on the medium frame anyway) and because of the angle of the downtube that the bottle would not clip in fully and the bottom edge of the bottle would make contact with the downtube. I just assumed this was the case with the toolkeg also. Would be great if you could please take a photo of the fabric bottle and toolkeg fitted ???

  14. #2914
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    I actually haven't used them both at the same time yet. (when I go for a short ride, I just put the keg on the downtube, no water bottle). When I plan a longer ride, it's the water bottle on the downtube and keg in my backpack. XL frame here.
    This MT-30 tool looks neat, but it's 30Eur for another multitool? Come on) Just go to any auto-repairs and ask for a short 15mm spanner, they should have some 11-12cm long ones that will fit into the Keg.
    Post Your Bad Boy!-1321281.jpgthis one is 12cm long

  15. #2915
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    True enough about the 15mm spanner.

    I reckon the keg and bottle wont fit at the same time if the length of the kegs mounting mechanism is the same length as the bottles. Pity.

    i could throw on one of these (https://www.topeak.com/global/de/pro...g/796-cagepack). I carry it on my CaadX with a cannondale cage. But I'm so fussy a cage on the Bad Boy would just spoil the asthetic along side a cageless water bottle. And I already had 2 cages on the bad boy practically touching each other and looked dumb.

    Then again there is always this : https://pedros.com/products/toolsfor.../trixie-black/

    But probably back to getting a taxi in the advent of a puncture I guess Lol

    (I guess if Cannondale had fitted Marathon Plus tires would have made the whole thing moot)

  16. #2916
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    Quote Originally Posted by HankSc0rpi0 View Post
    (I guess if Cannondale had fitted Marathon Plus tires would have made the whole thing moot)
    Those Marathon Plus are going to add some weight (920g for Marathon Plus vs 420gfor Schwalbe G-One Allaround, used in BB1 2018)

    I think those figures are per tire, so you're looking at +1kg for your bike

    EDIT: Getting my bike back this week, fork replaced with a new one

  17. #2917
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    Quote Originally Posted by buffet View Post
    Those Marathon Plus are going to add some weight (920g for Marathon Plus vs 420gfor Schwalbe G-One Allaround, used in BB1 2018)

    I think those figures are per tire, so you're looking at +1kg for your bike

    EDIT: Getting my bike back this week, fork replaced with a new one
    Hahah...1kg...no thanks. Hopefully new fork sorts things out for you.

    I ordered a new handlebar....RaceFace Next 3/4 carbon
    https://www.bike24.com/p243783.html

    Only 5mm longer then stock.pretty much same spec as original, 18mm rise, 4mm upsweep and 8mm backsweep. No more ordering stuff now for me

    Got a present of these as well the weekend
    https://www.probikekit.co.uk/cycling.../11802905.html

    Tbh, the lightskin seatpost is a pita, taking it out everytime I need to charge it and my see.sense ace rear light just bricked itself doing a firmware update so these cateyes came at the right time.

    As soon as I get a chance I'm back to the bikeshop...gear cable rattling again in the downtube....want a permanent fix. They told me last time they never clipped the cable properly into the guide in the factory but they only half sorted it cause it's clicking away now on bumps or when I turn. If I can get this sorted the bike will be perfect. Apart from the fact the cranks are made of cheese and the gloss paint finish (stupid idea) picks up scratches like you wouldn't believe.

  18. #2918
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    @HankSc0rpi0

    I think I'm getting read of the Lightskin seatpost come spring. Mine is a previous gen, so it's powered by 2 AA batteries
    I like the front Lightpipe, it really looks stylish (although doesn't serve any practical purpose). But the Lightskin seatpost looks like cheap Aliexpress rubbish. I will get a lightweight seatpost + some minimalist Knog tail lights.
    Crankset/BB: I guess I will just replace them when they start to die I may also replace the front sprocket with 50T to gain some top speed in the 8th gear

  19. #2919
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    Quote Originally Posted by buffet View Post
    @HankSc0rpi0

    I think I'm getting read of the Lightskin seatpost come spring. Mine is a previous gen, so it's powered by 2 AA batteries
    I like the front Lightpipe, it really looks stylish (although doesn't serve any practical purpose). But the Lightskin seatpost looks like cheap Aliexpress rubbish. I will get a lightweight seatpost + some minimalist Knog tail lights.
    Crankset/BB: I guess I will just replace them when they start to die I may also replace the front sprocket with 50T to gain some top speed in the 8th gear
    Yeah, it looks cheap and the usb one only lasts 9 hours for me. At most. It's also annoying you have to cycle through the modes with the 2nd from top button to turn it off. The previous one I think you just hold down the top button and I bet the 2 AA batteries last longer then the joke of a Lithium Ion they stuck in this generation.

    The front supernova light reminds me of tron. I guess it's a be seen light at night and will complement my cateye sync. I've given up now on lights driven by Ant+ tech. They are all unreliable and I've tried Garmin, See.Sense, Bontrager, Cycliq. All of them at some point develop a life of their own and turn them selves off randomly. The Cateye's seem to be based off bluetooth so one button controls the front and back and there is a nice auto brakelight / deceleration feature. Will see how I get on with them. It's getting dark here now at 5pm.

    Regarding the seatpost I will probably get a Fizik Cyrano r3 or r5. I run the r3 on my CaadX and it's so easy to adjust the saddle with the thumb wheel and it looks cool as well.

    I'm finding the gearing enough so far, and like you I will get a better crank set down the road but for now it's grand.

  20. #2920
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    Hey guys,

    I'm new to the forum. I recently purchased the 2019 Bad Boy 2 and I'm looking to upgrade some stock components. Here's what I've added:

    Forte carbon bars -89g
    Enve 70mm carbon stem -32g
    Xpedo pedals -100g
    Forte seat -92g

    I'm looking to reduce more weight but need some suggestions:

    Carbon crank and new BB
    2-sprocket chain ring (I'm not a fan of the single sprocket look)
    whatever derailleur
    Lefty Oliver Carbon 30mm fork (Is this lighter than the stock Lefty Light pipe w/ battery? If so, by how much?)
    whatever carbon wheelset and Lefty + rear hub

    THanx for the help!

  21. #2921
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    I doubt the Olivier is lighter than the rigid Lefty.

    Remove the battery = +-200g lighter, no cost !!
    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  22. #2922
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    If you want to keep it uber-cool, replace the battery with the original rubber cap
    https://www.cannondalespares.com/Can...detail/3-43199

  23. #2923
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    Does anyone know what these holes are for. I assume a kickstand. And which model. I would have thought the cannondale si v2. But looking at this chart it seems none are compatible. So why the holes ? What's more confusing is a bracket came with my bike but looks like it doesn't match these hole at all so no idea what it's for.

    https://cannondale.zendesk.com/hc/en...-Compatibility

    I reckon this might fit. Might totally spoil bike though but would be handy.
    https://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Ca...OS_p_6358.html
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post Your Bad Boy!-img_20181027_184820.jpg  


  24. #2924
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    @HankSc0rpi0

    In have a question regarding K-Edge gravity cap. I removed the original top cap, replaced it with the K-Edge gravity one. But I can't say that it exactly fits the top of the step, see foto below:
    Post Your Bad Boy!-img_1171.jpg

    Just feels kind of tilted and not exactly fitted. Maybe I should screw it on top of the existing cap?

    P.S. No idea about your kickstand question, sorry

  25. #2925
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    What I did is remove the original cap, fit the kedge with the provided bolt. Line it up carefully so the 2 holes for the Garmin are vertical. In this way the k-edge logo is viewable from each side. You can screw the bolt right down till its snug. Should be able to manage with long ball end of a hex key. But no need to use L-end. If its too loose the k-edge can rotate when you are trying to screw in the Garmin mount. Then place the Garmin mount on top and screw in the 2 tiny bolts. It took me a couple of goes to allign the mount perfectly. The 1st 2 tries the bolts did not go in smoothly and the Garmin mount was rattling. Also not alligned perfectly. On third attempt i just tightened the top garmin bolt half way so mount would not go out of alignment with the holes and then tightened the bottom one. You have to be careful not to overtighten or you will strip the heads and if the bolts work loose you will need to apply additional thread locker which is mentioned on the k-edge site. Mine seems solid, no rattle.

    My x-tools pro torque wrench arrived today along with a fizik r3 cryano seat post. Next week I'll be getting the raceface next 3/4 carbon bars. No more spending for a long while after that.

    Decided to stick with my ortlieb micro ICS saddle bag for emergency repairs btw.

    Proper pics when it's all done.

  26. #2926
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    Here is just one reason why Cannondale is not the company it used to be. I have Bad Boy 1, came from Cannondale with 42c tires. Here is a copy of the chat I had with them.
    bad boy 1 2017

    Avatar
    Anubisathletics March 21, 2018 00:16
    What is the widest tire that will fit the rear frame?

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    Nick R March 21, 2018 07:20
    40c
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    Nick R March 22, 2018 07:37
    Anubis,

    Thanks for the feedback. The answer you received is the maximum recommended tire size for the Bad Boy 1. 40c tires is the correct answer to your question. As you said there is room for larger tires, but on top of voiding the bikes warranty, most likely they will rub on the frame, and eventually cause structural issues. Having asked over a dozen questions about it, you seem particularly interested in the Bad Boy 1. Feel free to call us at 1-800-BIKE-USA in the future. We are here 9 to 6, Monday through Friday. We would be happy to discuss any of these questions with you!




    SO ACCORDING TO THE CANNONDALE REP. SINCE THEY SELL THE BIKE WITH 42C TIRES, DOES THAT MEAN THE WARRANTY WAS AUTOMATICALLY VOIDED.

  27. #2927
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    I guess you got unlucky and got talking to a simpleton reading off a card

  28. #2928
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    @Apharaoh06

    That is odd...According to the spec, Bad Boy 1 2017 and 2018 both come with Schwalbe G-One 650b/40c tires. Are you sure you got 42c?

  29. #2929
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    @HankSc0rpi0

    Can you post a pic of your gravity cap from the side view? I want to see how well it fits on the stem.

  30. #2930
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    @buffet : Will do when I'm back at the house in the morning. To my eyes though it's a perfect fit, nice and flush.

  31. #2931
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    Yes they are 42c. Also my Bad boy 1 came with 680mm handlebars even though they were stated to be 720. 680mm was on the bars when I removed the grips. The steer tube nearins are also different then they listed.
    Last edited by Apharaoh06; 1 Week Ago at 01:47 PM.

  32. #2932
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    Alos looking on the internet the 2017 is same as the 18 on Cannondale. However the 17 came out really late. But there are the older style bad boys that are called 2017. I think they planned to have the 2018 model out for 2017 but had distribution issues. It's not that hard to list the correct parts and even then a 5th grader could read the correct information.

  33. #2933
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    Quote Originally Posted by buffet View Post
    @HankSc0rpi0

    Can you post a pic of your gravity cap from the side view? I want to see how well it fits on the stem.
    Actually now I remember the sides have a tiny gap. This is due to the angle of the stem and of course the stock top cap is low profile and flat so it fits perfectly. This wasn't the case on the 2017 Bad Boy 3 I had which had a flat stem so no gaps. I suppose water could get in but it would flow out the bottom anyway. hmmmm....I will post a pic in the morning.

  34. #2934
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    Yep, pic appreciated. Indeed the problem is that the BB1 stem has an angle. I actually suspect that cheap top cap mount for Garmin from AliExpress would fit better, because they seem a bit slimmer than the K-Edge.
    Let me know how the Fizik seatpost suits you. Did you get 330mm or 400mm?
    I think my next upgrade is going tubeless. I will check that during my next visit to LBS (the tires are tubeless-ready, but I have some doubts about the rims)

  35. #2935
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    @buffet :The rims are not tubeless ready. Checked with Cannondale rep in LBS. I got the 330mm seat post. Not fitted yet. Closest to stock length. Don't think I would be bothered about the gap with the gravity cap. Its not noticeable unless you are looking I guess. Still I bet if you put the stock top cap on and the k-edge on top it might block the gap. Have you tried it?

  36. #2936
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    I know that the stock rims are not officially tubeless-ready. But people at the LBS can tell if it's actually possible to try them tubeless or not. I'm going to do that come spring; in worst case I will switch to different rims.
    As for the K-edge cap: I don't care much for the aesthetics of the gap, I wonder whether such position is ok for structural integrity of the stem.

  37. #2937
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    @buffet......too dark to take a decent photo as I have a crap camera phone but on examination I can clearly see from the side the bottom of the kedge where it tapers inwards. Normally you would not see this if the k-edge was perfectly flush. It's not flush because the top of the k-edge is flat and fouls itself every so slightly against the top edge of the stem (over the angle). I suspect it's actually slightly bigger then the standard 1 1/8 inch. Next I took the stock cap and I can clearly see the diameter is ever so slightly smaller then that of the k-edge which is why it is a perfect fit. The stock is actually 1 1/8 inch but only 10mm deep so I guess if you could find a garmin cap with these dimensions it would sit flush.

    I think not having the k-edge sit perfectly flush isn't a big deal in my opinion. It will have no effect on structural integrity either. The only purpose of the top cap is to set the preload of your headset bearings (tighten it enough so there isn't any play in the headset) and does not hold the stem or fork in place which is the job of the pinch bolts.

    Would like tubeless myself I think. My LBS seem to be against it for road riding as they claim to have seen plenty of customers had the stuff spay everywhere when they got a rear flat. Then the manufacturers see just top up every couple of months but you end up having to clean the tire out eventually as it starts to get heavier from constant top ups. I've seen them do this and it's not pleasant. So I'm still undecided. I haven't had a puncture in 2 years either.

  38. #2938
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    Any idea why the rims on the BB1 are marked "650B 584-22C" - does the 22C mean the min tire width to use with these rims?
    (so many things to learn, heh)

  39. #2939
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    Went camping this weekend near Santa Cruz, California, and took the BB on a short ride to see the S.S. Palo Alto.
    Post Your Bad Boy!-img_6239.jpg

  40. #2940
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    @buffet. pic of gravity cap. I can hardly see the gap at the side where the bottom part of the cap is exposed due to top not fitting flush. Unfortunately because of the shape of the stem, it's almost impossible for me to get the cap aligned so that the garmin is 100% straight. Then again because of the lefty fork I always think my bars are slightly off. So likely all in my head. Lol. There is always this option though which is basically a reverse out front mount. Ihave one lying around somewhere and will try it.
    https://www.sram.com/sram/mountain/p...computer-mount

    All that remains is my RaceCarbon bars which I will be getting this month and that completes the minor mods I am making.

    [Cannondale D3 lock on grips with aluminium end caps, Fizk Aliante R3 large saddle, Shimano GR500 flat pedals, Fabric cageless bottle, Ortlieb Micro ICS saddle, Cateye Sync Core and Kinetic lights, Gravity Cap with Garmin Edge 120]
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post Your Bad Boy!-imag2828.jpg  

    Post Your Bad Boy!-imag2826.jpg  

    Last edited by HankSc0rpi0; 1 Week Ago at 09:08 AM.

  41. #2941
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    @lithium1330 Great bike in a kickass scenery)

    @HankSc0rpi0
    Nice upgrades and setup overall. I also try to keep my setup as minimalist as possible on the BB1. How are those D3 grips compared to stock Fabrics? I'm thinking on getting Ergon Gp1
    Post Your Bad Boy!-42410005_detail_1.png

    You mentioned you're done with minor upgrades...what are the plans for major ones?)

    As I said earlier, I'm planning tubeless for early next year. I took a closer look at my back wheel and frame, I think 47c may actually fit just fine.

  42. #2942
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    @buffet : Thanks. The D3's are miles better then the Fabrics because I don't ride with gloves they have much better textured grip and also I no longer get any pain in my palms. I think the problem with the Fabric's is that they are just a fraction too wide for me. Also the D3's have the same usable space as the Fabrics unlike most dual lock on grips which come up short. For example the ODI Rogues were substantially shorter then the Fabrics. I also tried the Fabric semi ergo and they were better then the stock but a little slippy when you sweat. I had the GP1s on my Bad Boy 3 and they definitely allow you to rest you palms so very effective at relieving pain if your prone to that. But I didn't go for them this time round because I don't like that grey colour scheme and really there is only one spot for your hands. Here is the link to the D3's. Not many places selling them and are a bit pricey especially the shipping :
    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/CANNONDALE-D...zMfE:rk:1:pf:0

    I guess there wouldn't be anything major for me regarding upgrades. What I have done to the bike is very minor in the context of what some users have done from the get go like changing hubs, going with carbon cranks, seatpost etc... which always has me wondering why buy a bad boy in the first place. Maybe for me better cranks or at least cranks that don't scratch up if you look at them. I really don't have any issue with the FSA Commet that's on the bike at the moment but a logical upgrade might be the Gates s300 for a couple of hundred euro.

    I thought about tubeless and am still undecided. If you needed new rims to go tubeless, then I guess you'd have to get the front and rear hubs rebuilt. Something I wouldn't be prepared to mess with. Perhaps inner tubes with sealant might be an options though I've read mixed reviews on this.

    Incidentally I found some matt Cannondale riser bars here. Not carbon hence low price. Not sure if they would suit Bad Boy. But at least not gloss.
    https://www.ebay.ie/itm/Cannondale-C...iOyB:rk:1:pf:0

  43. #2943
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    If that may be of interest to someone :



    That's what it look with a 26 x 2,2 on a BB1
    with a 2.0 or a 1,9 , would leave enough space.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Post Your Bad Boy!-img_2429.jpg  

    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  44. #2944
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    @fokof

    Thats a tight fit) Thanks for the pic, that means WTB Horizon 47c will fit without an issue.

  45. #2945
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    That's with a 26 Wheel , it's almost the same as a 650 but yeah , a 47 will fit.
    "There is a big difference between kneeling down and bending over" -FZ

  46. #2946
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    Need to get mudguards sorted asap or otherwise I can forget about cycling for the next 3 or 4 months.

    Does anyone think this combo will work on the front of the BB1
    SKS Shockboard XL SKS Shockboard XL Front Mudguard - Mudguards - Cycle SuperStore

    with SKS lefty adapter : eBay

    Am also looking for rear mudguard but do not want to use the seatpost (occupied by rear light and bag) so considering the SKS Beavertail. https://www.sks-germany.com/en/produ...ail-xl-rear-2/

    It looks like it clips onto the bottom of the seatube and perhaps I will be able to use the seatstay mudguard mount that came with the bike also
    https://www.cannondaleexperts.com/Ca...OS_p_8020.html

  47. #2947
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    Any recommendations for tubeless-ready rims for BB1? I'm looking into WTB ST i23

  48. #2948
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    Anybody has the OPI bar/stem/lights combo for sale?
    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  49. #2949
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    If you are referring to the 2017 and newer Bad Boy 1, I will have one for sale within the next couple of weeks. It has only been ridden for about a mile for a test drive.

  50. #2950
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    Quote Originally Posted by Apharaoh06 View Post
    If you are referring to the 2017 and newer Bad Boy 1, I will have one for sale within the next couple of weeks. It has only been ridden for about a mile for a test drive.
    Awesome. PM me when ready.


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    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  51. #2951
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    Ok. I will let you know when.

  52. #2952
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    Ok will keep you posted.

  53. #2953
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    My matt black bars will be here next week. Pretty much same length, rise etc.. as original bad boy 1 bars.

    Just to be clear to remove the bad boy 1 bars there are 2 front bolts on the front of the stem (where you traditionally have a clamp and 4 bolts) and then there is 1 bolt on the light pipe and 3 bolts on the right part of the stem (traditionally pinch bolts you tighten up after setting the preload).

    What has to come off to remove the bars besides the front 2 bolts. I'm hoping it's just the single bolt on the right side of the stem and the bars will lift off ?

    thanks

  54. #2954
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    Found a cannondale tech manual online and diagram of my stem. I have added a red arrow where the 2 bolts for the handlebar clamp are which allows you to rotate the bars but not sure how I can actually remove the bars. Does the whole stem have to come off ? Also is it just the 3 pinch bolts on the right tube you loosen in the event you need to reset the preload with the stem cap ?
    Attached Images Attached Images  

  55. #2955
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    Have you tried loosening those 2 bolts where the red arrow is pointing? You should then be able to slide the handlebars out (provided that you have remove the grips and shifters)

  56. #2956
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    Not tried yet and I reckon it would work but concerned would scratch bars up this way. From what I can tell if i undo the 2 front bolts and the very top bolt on the stem that's attached to the headtube then I might be able to lift the top part of the stem to free the bars. Will give it a go next week.

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