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  1. #1
    Nor­wegr
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    Smile Building a Scalpel - My winter project for 2012/2013

    For a few years now I've been riding my Cannondale F6, I started cycling again in 2009 after a big downtime and got something cheap and sturdy to start off on. It got upgraded along the way and I never saw the need to get anything more expensive and god forbid a FS bike. The latter I believed I had no use for, that was probably true at the time, but things change. [F6 is pictured at the bottom]

    After trying out a friends high spec' Trek on a few different trails I was more or less forced by the bike itself to drop my conviction. So after selling off some of my collectible paintball markers [yes there is such a thing] I was ready to go hunting for a FS bike of my own.
    I looked at complete new and used bikes at first, but the amount of money I would have had to shell out in one go was just too much. So I dropped my goal to buy a complete bike and began looking for frames even though it'll cost me more in the end.

    Somehow I ended up with this:


    I'll most likely never ride it to it's full potential, but I'll give it a run for it's [/my] money.
    The plan is to build it up over the winter and hopefully have it ready for next years season.

    The use of this thread is to get tips and insight into my build as I have probably took a tad more water over my head than I can handle, luckily two friendly locals have offered to support me with their knowledge if need be.
    If you have any tips, pointers or scorn I'd appreciate it, be it suggestions on how to build it up, parts or telling me I'm a smeghead for buying that beauty of a frame when I'm a rec mountainbiker
    Last edited by Vegard; 09-07-2012 at 06:15 AM.

  2. #2
    Nor­wegr
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    Planned Scalpel partslist

    Everything in red is allready purchased, taking suggestions on everything else:

    Frame: Team Scalpel 2012
    Fork: Cannondale Lefty Speed Carbon XLR 100mm
    Lefty stem: Hope 90mm +5*
    Misc lefty related:
    Lefty Headset bearings + cover
    Lefty steerer tube
    Lefty bolt and cap



    Seatpost: FSA K-force handlebar Cannondale green
    Handlebar: FSA K-force light riser 660mm Cannondale green
    Grips: Ritchey WCS Ergo Truegrip

    Brakes: SRAM XX WC left&right.
    Discs: Alligator 2-piece windcutters

    Pedals: Nukeproof Proton Mag-Ti. 294g/pair

    Miscellaneous:


    Yet to purchase:
    Drivetrain: Complete XX1 Groupset.

    26" wheelset: i9 Ultralight or XC with XX1 FH

    Tires: Not sure yet

    Please post up if you see anything important that's missing


    Resources I'll be referencing:
    https://forums.mtbr.com/tooltime/bui...ep-267365.html

    Park Tool Co. ╗ ParkTool Blog

    Cannondale Scalpel XX Ultralite Race Build

    My current ride:



    Scalpel in progress pictures:



    Last edited by Vegard; 10-04-2012 at 04:13 AM.

  3. #3
    Just Ride
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    Damn, that's a nice carbon frame!
    Ebay? I know of nowhere else you can get a C'dale frame.

    I have no incite. I'm rather new to wrenching myself. But I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for sure! Pics along the way and especially of the final product!
    SS ==> Nut up or Shut up!

  4. #4
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    Very nice frame, most definitely not more bike than you need, will give you confidence and room to grow your skills As to any help......http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help............You should be able to find all the info you need about building and maintaining a bike there.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  5. #5
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    check out my seatpost, bar and grips that will match that perfectly they are in the classifieds.

  6. #6
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    That's a pretty sweet frame. Are you planning on taking the parts off of the F6, or buying all new parts for the scalpel? If you are going to strip the F6 the only thing I can think of that you would want to check is if the seat post will fit ( I think cannondale moved away from the 27.2mm? seatpost size), the crank (you may need an adapter if the crank on the F6 is not BB30) and the front derailleur (i think the new scalpels are direct mount). I will be more expensive than finding a deal on a complete bike but you get a chance to put exactly what you want (or can afford) on that frame.
    Good Luck with your project.

  7. #7
    Nor­wegr
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    It was a slow day at work today so I spent it setting up a budget for the build, the very least I'll end up spending in total will be in the $4600 range with buying all new mid to highend parts. Going balls to the wall with it will set me down nicely in the $7500 range. Knowing me I'll land somewhere in the middle and then upgrade further as I go.

    So far I've purchased a new Lefty 100mm XLR, mounting hardware for the brakes and the bolt and cap for a lefty hubbed wheel. Matching green Colours don't bother me that much, but I don't want to ride something resembling a Picasso.

    My next purchase will probably be a good wheelset, I'll be quite happy using a 'budget' solution crankset for a while if it means I can get the good wheels straight away. The Mavic UST set I have currently is nearly 1600g each with tire and goo, therefor I have my eyes fixed on the Mavic crossmax SLR set.

    Buying a cheaper crankset off the bat to afford better wheels has another benefit, when I get a hollowgram later I'll have a spare crankset. And what do you do when you have spare parts? Build more bikes!

    Could someone help me formulate a list of all parts that I'll need to complete the Scalpel?

    Quote Originally Posted by Cormac View Post
    Damn, that's a nice carbon frame!
    Ebay? I know of nowhere else you can get a C'dale frame.

    I have no incite. I'm rather new to wrenching myself. But I'll be keeping an eye on this thread for sure! Pics along the way and especially of the final product!
    Indeed it is, hopefully my semi-economy build won't kill the looks or the performance
    There were two other brands on the table for a brief moment, Ibis and GT. The latter due to brand loyalty and the first due to curiousity. Leftys only ever look good on Cannondale though so in the end the choice was quite simple, had to have another and then that frame popped up on Ebay

    It's a 'new' frame, was backup for some team that never had to use it. Therefor I don't have the warranty since technically I'm the second owner, but after talking to my insurance company they're willing to set something up to cover it.

    And I'll be sure to update with pics, success stories and bitter failures.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Very nice frame, most definitely not more bike than you need, will give you confidence and room to grow your skills As to any help......http://www.parktool.com/blog/repair-help............You should be able to find all the info you need about building and maintaining a bike there.
    Thank you for the encouraging words and the link

    Quote Originally Posted by bikesinmud View Post
    check out my seatpost, bar and grips that will match that perfectly they are in the classifieds.
    Those parts will most likely be purchased last since I'm not planning to complete this until April-ish, going for the expensive stuff first, but thank you for the offer

    Quote Originally Posted by njiplex View Post
    That's a pretty sweet frame. Are you planning on taking the parts off of the F6, or buying all new parts for the scalpel? If you are going to strip the F6 the only thing I can think of that you would want to check is if the seat post will fit ( I think cannondale moved away from the 27.2mm? seatpost size), the crank (you may need an adapter if the crank on the F6 is not BB30) and the front derailleur (i think the new scalpels are direct mount). I will be more expensive than finding a deal on a complete bike but you get a chance to put exactly what you want (or can afford) on that frame.
    Good Luck with your project.
    The F6 will stay more or less as is, actually got XT derailleurs for it that I've yet to put on. I might re-use the pedals on the Scalpel since I can't find the magnesium wellgo with TI spindle anymore, I love platforms and they're 300g for the pair which is quite nice.

    As for the seatpost I can't remember which size the F6 is, I knew I checked it when I ordered the derailleurs; but I'm drawing a blank here..
    As you mention I did consider using an adapter for the raceface crank, but since the frame is bb30 it would be silly of me not to take advantage of it. If I can't afford a hollowgram sl immediately it'll atleast be a future upgrade. (Looking at SRAM X0 and XX right now)

    The F6 will definitely stay with me at the very least as a fun commuter since I don't think I'll dare leave the Scalpel anywhere unattended.. There's trails going from where I live to where I work even though I live in a city so it'll still get what it deserves in terms of proper mtb use
    Last edited by Vegard; 09-09-2012 at 01:19 PM.

  8. #8
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    I love build threads! *subscribed*

    I will say one thing though, get yourself a set of Hope Race X2 Evo's. They're immense and look amazing on that frame
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  9. #9
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    Yeah, the Limited Edition green ones would look damn trick with that frame, good call.

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    I love build threads! *subscribed*

    I will say one thing though, get yourself a set of Hope Race X2 Evo's. They're immense and look amazing on that frame
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  10. #10
    Nor­wegr
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    I love build threads! *subscribed*

    I will say one thing though, get yourself a set of Hope Race X2 Evo's. They're immense and look amazing on that frame
    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Yeah, the Limited Edition green ones would look damn trick with that frame, good call.
    Hopefully I'll be able to deliver something worth looking at
    Those brakes look great, a tad over my brake budget, but I found a store selling the set with rotors and mounting hardware for $550 which is less than others are selling them for.
    I can live on oatmeal and water for a week.
    Last edited by Vegard; 09-10-2012 at 10:43 AM.

  11. #11
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    Sale!

    Hei Vegard,

    Gathering that you live in Norway? If you are close to Oslo, they had a large 2012 Flash Carbon 2 - 26 in team colors on sale today at Sykkeldelisk for just under 20.000 NOK (retail at 34k I think it was). Should give you a great build with a nice frame (and now also a fork) to spare

    Thomas

  12. #12
    Nor­wegr
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    I'm in the opposite end of the country I'm afraid
    Emailed them last week inquiring about C.dale frames, but they didn't have any in my size. (I need a medium at most)

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Hopefully I'll be able to deliver something worth looking at
    Those brakes look great, a tad over my brake budget, but I found a store selling the set with rotors and mounting hardware for $550 which is less than others are selling them for.
    I can live on oatmeal and water for a week.
    It will be worth it.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  14. #14
    Nor­wegr
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    EDIT
    Updated list will be located in post 2 located here: http://forums.mtbr.com/9666059-post2.html
    EDIT

    Here's the partslist I'm working with, some might change based on suggestions from here and budget variables.

    Everything in red is allready purchased, taking suggestions on everything else:


    Team Scalpel 2012
    Cannondale Lefty Speed Carbon XLR 100mm
    Lefty headset bearings
    Lefty steerer tube
    Lefty bolt and cap
    Lefty stem: 90mm +5* from Hope.


    Seatpost: FSA K-force handlebar Cannondale green
    Handlebar: FSA K-force light riser 660mm Cannondale green
    Grips: Ritchey WCS Ergo Truegrip


    Brakes: Hope X2 Race evo
    2x10 BB30 crankset: SRAM, FSA or Hollowgram?

    10spd cassette:
    10spd chain:
    10spd rear derailleur:
    10spd front derailleur:
    10spd shifter set:

    Lefty mount for the brake:

    26" lefty wheelset w/rear skewer:
    Tires:

    Please post up if you see anything important that's missing from my list
    There is a small chance that I'll use a 9spd setup if that's the only way I can get a rapid rise derailleur on there.
    Last edited by Vegard; 09-14-2012 at 08:45 AM.

  15. #15
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    Sorry mate, I couldn't help but notice that the Hope X2 Race evo's are not in red. If you need more convincing, here's a shot of them on my Flash. Same colour scheme as your Scalpel. By the way, you will need an adapter to mount the rear calliper, but I can help you with that nearer the time



    Also, make sure you add the new Hope Jockey Wheels onto your list.

    I personally would go for the hollowgram cranks, but that's because I'm a fan boy

    Have you decided on your group set yet?
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  16. #16
    Nor­wegr
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Sorry mate, I couldn't help but notice that the Hope X2 Race evo's are not in red. If you need more convincing, here's a shot of them on my Flash. Same colour scheme as your Scalpel. By the way, you will need an adapter to mount the rear calliper, but I can help you with that nearer the time
    Indeed they are not, I want to buy the most expensive stuff first to get it out of the way, at the moment that is the wheelset, crank and brakes in that order.

    It does indeed look great on there, nice bike too
    I like how it's all mounted in one blob of parts on the handlebar instead of being spread out, not sure how to put that more eloquent..

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Also, make sure you add the new Hope Jockey Wheels onto your list.
    I personally would go for the hollowgram cranks, but that's because I'm a fan boy
    Have you decided on your group set yet?
    I've done the math a couple of times and after shipping and what not the hollowgrams will only be marginally more expensive than a higher end sram or fsa set. So hollowgram it is as soon as the funding is in place!

    As for the groupset I'm not sure yet, I've been running Shimano on my other bike and I'm 'ok' with it. Curious about srams offering.

    PS- Will read up on jockeywheels, thanks

  17. #17
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    I was actually talking about a limited edition run they did where the reservoir caps, levers and pistons were all green, would be similar to these but in green.

    Nice looking bike Boost, very nicely done indeed, but you may inspire this poor dude to go WAY over budget

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Sorry mate, I couldn't help but notice that the Hope X2 Race evo's are not in red. If you need more convincing, here's a shot of them on my Flash. Same colour scheme as your Scalpel. By the way, you will need an adapter to mount the rear calliper, but I can help you with that nearer the time

    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  18. #18
    Nor­wegr
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I was actually talking about a limited edition run they did where the reservoir caps, levers and pistons were all green, would be similar to these but in green.

    Nice looking bike Boost, very nicely done indeed, but you may inspire this poor dude to go WAY over budget
    I'll ask my Hope guy about a set like that, I found someone local with Hope brakes and I like how they felt.

    Also got the first part for this build delivered to me:

  19. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I was actually talking about a limited edition run they did where the reservoir caps, levers and pistons were all green, would be similar to these but in green.

    Nice looking bike Boost, very nicely done indeed, but you may inspire this poor dude to go WAY over budget
    Thanks mate, he'll thank me for it one day. That's what budgets are for...
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  20. #20
    Nor­wegr
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    Will the direct mount front derailleur have to be a top or bottom pull? I assume it is the bottom pull from looking at pics, but rather safe than sorry.

    If anyone could point me towards the correct rear derailleur model (XX or X0) I'd appreciate that aswell.

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Thanks mate, he'll thank me for it one day. That's what budgets are for...

  21. #21
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    A beauty! Congratulations.

    Are you in a hurry to build it? If it's a winter project, is the goal building it up to ride it next spring? If so... I'd look into SRAM's XX1 1x11 group...

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous View Post
    A beauty! Congratulations.

    Are you in a hurry to build it? If it's a winter project, is the goal building it up to ride it next spring? If so... I'd look into SRAM's XX1 1x11 group...
    +1

    A lot of the guys I ride with are now riding 1x10.... Looks like it's the way forward. Keeps your cockpit tidy too.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  23. #23
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    Meah Wasn't a fan of the move to 10spd for an MTB and def not a fan of them clustering 11 on there I'd save my money for other, more worth while parts like better wheels.
    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous View Post
    A beauty! Congratulations.

    Are you in a hurry to build it? If it's a winter project, is the goal building it up to ride it next spring? If so... I'd look into SRAM's XX1 1x11 group...
    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    +1
    A lot of the guys I ride with are now riding 1x10.... Looks like it's the way forward. Keeps your cockpit tidy too.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Meah Wasn't a fan of the move to 10spd for an MTB and def not a fan of them clustering 11 on there I'd save my money for other, more worth while parts like better wheels.
    The 11 cogs are spaced pretty much the same on XX1 as 10 speed ones... The chain is not really narrower... And even if, 10 speed chains are not wearing out faster or aren't weaker than 9 speeds were.

    I think dropping the front shifting is a huge plus (weight is a reason but the best is the efficiency gain by eliminating front shifts that are slow and clunky compared to rear ones and the risk of chainsucks... I have a 1x10 setup on my Scalpel, it's so smoother than having 2 or 3 rings). My opinion.

    When you already have a transmission, I agree spending money on wheels is a better idea, but since he doesn't have a transmission, might as well pick it well. The only issue is making sure the rear hub is compatible with XX1. DT Swiss (and the 34,745 hubs made by DT) are, Mavic will be too, not sure about others...

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  25. #25
    Nor­wegr
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    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous View Post
    A beauty! Congratulations.

    Are you in a hurry to build it? If it's a winter project, is the goal building it up to ride it next spring? If so... I'd look into SRAM's XX1 1x11 group...
    Thanks

    I'm definitely not in a hurry, but I'm of the type that likes tinkering so the sooner I can get stuff going the better

    I found this article about the group you mentioned and it's looks quite interesting actually.
    My main concern would be how far you'd go with one revolution of the crank, but as the article states the difference seems to be very small:

    Low
    2x10 (26x36): 1.7 meters development
    1x11 (34x42): 1.9 meters development

    High
    2x10 (39x11): 8.1 meters development
    1x11 (34x10): 7.8 meters development


    SRAM 11-Speed XX1 Exclusive Details | Bicycling Magazine

    Definitely something to look into when it arrives!

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Meah Wasn't a fan of the move to 10spd for an MTB and def not a fan of them clustering 11 on there I'd save my money for other, more worth while parts like better wheels.
    Since I don't have parts for this frame as mentioned by Dan Gerous I'll be looking into it, but as you say if I did have everything set up allready I probably wouldn't have made the switch.

    Going for Mavic SLRs or i9 XCs as I want to invest as much as possible in a decent wheelset. The set I have on my F6 is of the heavier sort so getting a superb wheelset is a high priority.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous View Post
    I think dropping the front shifting is a huge plus (weight is a reason but the best is the efficiency gain by eliminating front shifts that are slow and clunky compared to rear ones and the risk of chainsucks... I have a 1x10 setup on my Scalpel, it's so smoother than having 2 or 3 rings). My opinion.

    When you already have a transmission, I agree spending money on wheels is a better idea, but since he doesn't have a transmission, might as well pick it well. The only issue is making sure the rear hub is compatible with XX1. DT Swiss (and the 34,745 hubs made by DT) are, Mavic will be too, not sure about others...
    Ironically weight won't be a huge issue for me as it's highly probable that I won't be picking some components off the top shelf. I'll get funny looks from the weenies on this frame for sure

    Going with i9 XC or Mavic SLR as mentioned above. Most likely the i9s as they seem like a great bunch of guys.

  26. #26
    Nor­wegr
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    Complete XX1 kit starts at $1,560 to the most expensive at $1,675.
    After reading everything I could find on it I'm sold on it as long as everything fits my frame and future wheelset.


    SRAM XX 1 - CHAPTER 1: DEVELOPMENT - YouTube

  27. #27
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    Once you ditch the front shifting, it's hard to go back, even with the best setups, front shifts feel so slow and clumsy while rear shifts are so quick, smooth and silent.

    The frame wont be a problem, I'm not sure about i9 hubs, Mavic will have the XX1 driver body for the Crossmax SLR... I think most companies will have XX1 compatible freehub bodies, it's more a matter of when. I also assume that the 1x11 will trickle down to more affordable groups eventually so most hub and wheel companies will want to make sure they will play along.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  28. #28
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    I'm sorry, honestly a 42t big cog, that's just insane Can't wait to hear the reports of how many freehubs get destroyed from the torque this applies.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

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    Good job! Winter project

    My story is almost identical. I just picked up a 2004 Scalpel 3000 and am starting to realize that I am in over my head but plan on pushing through. I am going to keep a close watch on your adventure and update about mine as well. Good luck to you.

    One thing I am going to throw out right away is have you decided on wheel size yet 26 or 29, and why?

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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'm sorry, honestly a 42t big cog, that's just insane Can't wait to hear the reports of how many freehubs get destroyed from the torque this applies.
    It's the ratio that matters. There isn't any more torque available with, say a 34t chainring (you can get from 28 to 38 for 1x11) and 42t rear cog combo than there is with a 28t chainring and 36t cog from a 2x10 setup.

  31. #31
    Nor­wegr
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    I'm sorry, honestly a 42t big cog, that's just insane Can't wait to hear the reports of how many freehubs get destroyed from the torque this applies.
    Quote Originally Posted by chiliconcrosso View Post
    It's the ratio that matters. There isn't any more torque available with, say a 34t chainring (you can get from 28 to 38 for 1x11) and 42t rear cog combo than there is with a 28t chainring and 36t cog from a 2x10 setup.
    Exactly, I think I will be just fine with a XX1 system, at worst my cadence will improve

    Quote Originally Posted by bjor13 View Post
    My story is almost identical. I just picked up a 2004 Scalpel 3000 and am starting to realize that I am in over my head but plan on pushing through. I am going to keep a close watch on your adventure and update about mine as well. Good luck to you.

    One thing I am going to throw out right away is have you decided on wheel size yet 26 or 29, and why?
    Cool, what kind of build will you be going for?

    I went with 26 for a couple of reasons, I'm 5'7 so standover height would have been an issue for me, 26er bikes also seem to be nimbler and faster which suites the riding I like to do alot better.

    Quote Originally Posted by Dan Gerous View Post
    Once you ditch the front shifting, it's hard to go back, even with the best setups, front shifts feel so slow and clumsy while rear shifts are so quick, smooth and silent.

    The frame wont be a problem, I'm not sure about i9 hubs, Mavic will have the XX1 driver body for the Crossmax SLR... I think most companies will have XX1 compatible freehub bodies, it's more a matter of when. I also assume that the 1x11 will trickle down to more affordable groups eventually so most hub and wheel companies will want to make sure they will play along.
    I sent an email to i9 asking if they knew about compability., I'll post their reply when Received.

    In a different thread you stated that you disliked the SRAM brakes, may I ask why?

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by Industry 9
    Vegard,

    We plan on offering full XX1 compatibility when the group is available. As of now we plan on having an XX1 specific FH body as an option to our wheels.

    Best,
    Sorry for the doublepost, but thought I'd share

    PS- Partslist in post 2 is updated.

    PPS-


    Last edited by Vegard; 10-01-2012 at 07:22 AM.

  33. #33
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    You've brought XX WC? Why?
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  34. #34
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    Might be just me, but bit strange to buy a short travel XC race frame and build it to use flats
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  35. #35
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    I second that .

  36. #36
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    I was also wondering about the pedals...

    Vegard.... You were doing SO well!

    Throw those brakes back into the fire from which they came! (Mt.Doom)

    XX WC are an awful brake, you will spend more time bleeding them than using them... The final straw for me was when they failed down some single track and I almost had a sever crash. Which would have really hurt both me and my bike. Get some Hopes, they pretty much work out of the box, and you never have to bleed them
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  37. #37
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    Also, pads last longer and are cheaper
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  38. #38
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    You've brought XX WC? Why?
    Bought both, one set goes on the other bike
    Good and bad reviews on either system so whichever one ends up working for me is the one that gets hired on the scalpel.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Might be just me, but bit strange to buy a short travel XC race frame and build it to use flats
    Quote Originally Posted by ccaddy View Post
    I second that .
    Personal preference, I hate clipless
    I got the same kind of comments when I set up my other Cannondale a few years ago, I've tried clipless on a couple of occations, but I feel better and go faster on platforms.
    Last edited by Vegard; 10-02-2012 at 12:35 AM.

  39. #39
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    Once you get the Hopes on... You will buy them for all your other bikes

    No, I don't work for Hope lol
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  40. #40
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    Seriously, take Boosts advice, in the 7 or 8 guys down here riding the new Avid, all have given no end of trouble, a royal PITA to put it nicely. Either go for those nice blingy Hopes or some XTRs, you'll have much more reliable brakes.

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Throw those brakes back into the fire from which they came! (Mt.Doom)

    XX WC are an awful brake, you will spend more time bleeding them than using them... The final straw for me was when they failed down some single track and I almost had a sever crash. Which would have really hurt both me and my bike. Get some Hopes, they pretty much work out of the box, and you never have to bleed them
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Bought both, one set goes on the other bike
    Good and bad reviews on either system so whichever one ends up working for me is the one that gets hired on the scalpel.
    Last edited by LyNx; 10-02-2012 at 09:21 AM.
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  41. #41
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    FLATS!?!?! Other than that, you are looking good May want to look at the SRAM Rise 60 wheelset. Saw them up close at Interbike and I'm sold
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  42. #42
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    In other news shipping is giving me a headache, I knew fitting it into a USPS shippable box would be an issue due to not being able to remove the rear triangle, but that it would be this bad I didn't see coming.

    Might have to opt to do it via UPS [$600..] or doing away with the frame completely and purchase one on this side of the pond.

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Seriously, take Boosts advice, in the 7 or 8 guys down here riding the new Avid, all have given no end of trouble, a royal PITA to put it nicely. Either go for those nice blingy Hopes or some XTRs, you'll have much more reliable brakes.
    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Once you get the Hopes on... You will buy them for all your other bikes

    No, I don't work for Hope lol
    That's the plan, already ordered Hopes. I /really/ do not mind tinkering, so if I get to do that with these then it really isn't a big issue. If they don't perform I'll put them on my HT and have fun with them on the off days

    Quote Originally Posted by lowpsihighspeed View Post
    FLATS!?!?! Other than that, you are looking good May want to look at the SRAM Rise 60 wheelset. Saw them up close at Interbike and I'm sold
    Flats!

    The Rise60 looks really promising, but are incredibly expensive, might just have to opt for ENVE at that point.

  43. #43
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    So, here's a very unexciting update to my project. Shipping the frame is still proving to be a major PITA. Also my brakes never arrived so I was refunded by the very nice ebay seller. This effectively put my project at a standstill for the time being.

    To top the above setbacks my local Cannondale dealer went belly up today, now the nearest place is hours away by plane(!)

    Looks like shipping will be running me in the neighbourhood of $800 unless I can figure something else out. Could be cheaper just to fly over and pick it up at that rate. Seeing as shipping would be an arm an a leg anyways I went ahead and purchased a used Trico Ironcase to send it in.

    It seems I can't update the partslist post anymore, so here's the most recent update. It will be a frankenbike, but it is going to be my Frankenstein.

    Planned Scalpel partslist

    Everything in red is allready purchased, taking suggestions on everything else:

    Frame: Team Scalpel 2012
    Fork: Cannondale Lefty Speed Carbon XLR 100mm
    Lefty stem: Hope 90mm +5*
    Misc lefty related:
    Lefty Headset bearings + cover
    Lefty steerer tube
    Lefty bolt and cap



    Seatpost: FSA K-force handlebar Cannondale green
    Handlebar: FSA K-force light riser 660mm Cannondale green
    Grips: Ritchey WCS Ergo Truegrip

    Seat:Selle San Marco Aspide Carbon FX Racing Team 129g.

    Brakes: Hope X2 Evo Race
    Discs: Alligator 2-piece windcutters

    Pedals: Nukeproof Proton Mag-Ti. 294g/pair

    Miscellaneous:

    Yet to purchase:
    Drivetrain: Complete XX1 Groupset.

    26" wheelset: Enve Project321 XX1 FH

    Tires: Not sure yet Schwalbe or Maxxis highrollers most likely.
    Last edited by Vegard; 11-16-2012 at 03:14 PM.

  44. #44
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    Dude what happened to the Hope X2 Evos?
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  45. #45
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    As mentioned they never arrived, they're probably be the last thing I'll buy now. Got to concentrate on getting the frame over the pond first.

    Here's something that did arrive though, all the way from Israel:


    Tried it out on my F6 already and it's quite nice indeed, less padding than on my heavier selle italia, but fits better all in all.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    As mentioned they never arrived, they're probably be the last thing I'll buy now. Got to concentrate on getting the frame over the pond first.

    Here's something that did arrive though, all the way from Israel:


    Tried it out on my F6 already and it's quite nice indeed, less padding than on my heavier selle italia, but fits better all in all.
    I can get them from my LBS and send you some from the UK if need be. You'll obviously have to send me úúús though
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    I can get them from my LBS and send you some from the UK if need be. You'll obviously have to send me úúús though
    Ah, that'd be great if we could set something up, though I probably won't be in a position to buy until early '13 somewhere.

    Though I did find these TI lever bolts Avid/Hope brakes :P



  48. #48
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Ah, that'd be great if we could set something up, though I probably won't be in a position to buy until early '13 somewhere.

    Though I did find these TI lever bolts Avid/Hope brakes :P


    Care to share where to buy these?

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thatshowiroll View Post
    Care to share where to buy these?
    I've just brought some. Waiting for them to come through in the post.

    Would love some green ti Lefty bolts as well! I wonder if they sell those too?

    Uberbike Green Titanium Brake Lever Bolts MTB Ti kits Avid Hope Compatible | eBay
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  50. #50
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    Yep, that's the link

    I'm about to order some XX1 items from Chainreaction since they have 10% off on items that are in stock.

    Just got to decide between a 36t or 38t ring. I'm used to riding 44/32/22 so I feel I need a larger front ring than the stock 32t.
    Last edited by Vegard; 11-27-2012 at 02:31 AM.

  51. #51
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    XX1 Groupset is about to be ordered, but I'm not sure wether or not I'll need a 164q or 156q.
    Googling says that both should work on this frame, but that the latter will leave barely 2.5mm clearance and that doesn't sound like much.

    Thoughts anyone?

  52. #52
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    If I understand you right the clearance you're talking about is the chainring - chain stay clearance. If so, one thing to consider is chain suck. With such a small clearance your risking damaging the frame on chainsuck. I have this issue on my Scott Scale RC with a 2x10 XTR kit, avoidable but not fun either way. YMMV

  53. #53
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    You have a point indeed, perhaps the wider of the two is what I should go with. Would have been less of a worry if it was a aluminum frame though.

    EDIT:
    Come to think of it, chainsuck with XX1 can't happen
    Last edited by Vegard; 12-05-2012 at 11:12 PM.

  54. #54
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    Less text, more pictures!!
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  55. #55
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    There isn't much to look at, but the frame is finally headed my way. Cheapest option turned out to be $400.

    But since you demand a pic, here's one of the so far accumulated parts, nothing too exciting:


    Ordering XX1 groupset on the 12th though, excited for that

  56. #56
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    While I've never used any of those super light weight disc rotors, to me I just can't see how they can provide nearly as much stopping power as a regular rotor, so have to ask, what's the power like compared?
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  57. #57
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    Been using the same ones on my F6 for a few years and I've never noticed any difference from an all steel/ti disc.

    Might actually go with different discs and sell these, the ones Mattias have made look intriguing, though expensive.
    Last edited by Vegard; 12-05-2012 at 06:26 AM.

  58. #58
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    Carrying a trico ironcase home wasn't that much fun, not while battling a flu atleast. Anywho, pics at first opportunity

    Edit:


    Removed some stickers, going to put some small stuff on tomorrow aswell shopping for some extra trinkets.
    Last edited by Vegard; 12-18-2012 at 02:20 PM.

  59. #59
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    That's Sexeh!

  60. #60
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    Just rims and tires left to get before the fun stuff starts

  61. #61
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    That's gonna be one hell of a bike when you're finished.

    Still don't understand why you're not getting the Hope brakes though. They'd look so good on your bike man. They're more than worth the price.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  62. #62
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    Got to save somewhere as my budget dwindles, free beats $500 right now
    Though they're on my future to get list alongisde some enve wheels. Will have to stick to crests for the time being :|

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Got to save somewhere as my budget dwindles, free beats $500 right now
    Though they're on my future to get list alongisde some enve wheels. Will have to stick to crests for the time being :|
    But your stoppers are probably one of the most important components of your bike? With the exception of your helmet of course (I know it's not quite a component).
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  64. #64
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    Have to agree with Boost on this one, brakes are one of, if not the most important part of a build. Now if you'd asked me about this a month ago I might not have thought so, but after getting my new XT 785 brakes I now know what real stopping power is and all with LIGHT one finger usage, cannot believe how much power they can out down and how much less power I have to apply to the lever for this. If you're on a budget the XT785s are probably the best bang for buck out there right now.

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    That's gonna be one hell of a bike when you're finished.

    Still don't understand why you're not getting the Hope brakes though. They'd look so good on your bike man. They're more than worth the price.
    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Got to save somewhere as my budget dwindles, free beats $500 right now
    Though they're on my future to get list alongisde some enve wheels. Will have to stick to crests for the time being :|
    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    But your stoppers are probably one of the most important components of your bike? With the exception of your helmet of course (I know it's not quite a component).
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  65. #65
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    You'll see, I didn't go so lowend that I won't stop

    To be very specific:
    Magura MT4 disc brake review ľ Bike Magic

    Got lighter rotors though:


    More or less final buildlist until my second project gets under way, depending on how I like the brakes they might go on my trailbike-to-be.

    Frame: Factory Racing Scalpel 2012

    Hub front: P321 Lefty.
    Hub rear: P321 XX1.
    Rim: Crest 26"

    Rear Tire: Schwalbe Racing Ralph Evo Double Defense. 26x2.1
    Front Tire: Schwalbe Nobby Nic 26x2.35

    Lefty: 2011 100mm Carbon XLR
    BB: Ceramic
    Groupset: XX1 + 36T.
    Pedals: Nukeproof Proton Mag-Ti. (jepp!)

    Brakeset: Magura MT4
    Discs: Alligator Windcutter F180/R160mm
    Bar: FSA K Force
    Grips: Ritchey WCS Truegrip

    Seatpost: FSA K Force
    Seat:
    Last edited by Vegard; 01-26-2013 at 05:41 AM.

  66. #66
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    Update:





    The rest of the parts are in the house aswell, all I need to do now is put it all together! Expect build pics from today onwards!


    PS- take special note of the green valve cap :P

    ------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------


    When installing the lefty (carbon) do I have the right procedure in mind?

    1: Align the lefty with the corresponding holes, make sure the top seal is in place.
    2: Align the steerer tube with the above holes, gently hammer it through with a rubber mallet.

    Voila?

  67. #67
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    Installed it, but not sure where the spacer is supposed to go, top or bottom?
    If someone can clarify the install as the manual I have doesn't say.
    (on my f6 the steerer is knocked all the way up and the spacer is up top, but in some pics I see of the scalpel it's at the bottom.)

    Here's the mockup pics:








  68. #68
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    The spacers go just under the stem. Have a look at pics of mine if you want, but I'm 100% sure.

    I can upload a photo later if need be.

  69. #69
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    Thanks, giving the steerer another nudge tomorrow

  70. #70
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Thanks, giving the steerer another nudge tomorrow
    Did you consider getting the FSA K-Force riser bars? (The ones with a green and white stripe on them). They look really good with the 2012 CFR paint scheme.

    You need to line up the logos on the tires with the logos on the rims. Comon maaaaaan, why buy green dust caps of you're not even gonna line the logos up?

    What grips have you got?
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  71. #71
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    Going to remove the stickers completely actually so I didn't think much about that.

    I have the matching FSA bar and seatpost, but I haven't shipped them here yet, what's on there is off my F6 to use until I do

    I have a set of matching white with green lock cdale grips, but I'll be using a ritchey wcs set most likely. Contoured foamies grip better for me.

  72. #72
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post

    You need to line up the logos on the tires with the logos on the rims. Comon maaaaaan, why buy green dust caps of you're not even gonna line the logos up?
    Even if the stickers are coming off, middle of the tyre logo with the
    Valve stem

    Interested in what you think of the wheels, I am between tune or project321 hubs with arch ex rims!!

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    Even if the stickers are coming off, middle of the tyre logo with the
    Valve stem

    Interested in what you think of the wheels, I am between tune or project321 hubs with arch ex rims!!
    I was actually just thinking what a nice build you've got there! They look gorgeous. Those P321 hubs are really sexy.

    Your bike is like my bikes fat sister (being full suss)

  74. #74
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    Yeah, I'm anal about this too, can't stand seeing a nice bike with the logos not lined up with valve stems. Besides looking good, helps you locate the valve when you need to, most especially helpful when it's dark, changing a flat or just need to add air. Small FYI, not sure who else does it, but Maxxis actually only put the tyre name on the drive side of their tyres
    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    Even if the stickers are coming off, middle of the tyre logo with the
    Valve stem

    Interested in what you think of the wheels, I am between tune or project321 hubs with arch ex rims!!
    Forgot to say, bike looks sharp as hell, even if it is only a kiddie wheeler
    One day your life will flash before your eyes, will it be worth watching??

  75. #75
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    Hey Vegard,
    I take it you shipped your frame from the US to Norway for about 400$?
    Next time, you can take a look at jetcarrier.no they forward stuff from New Jersey to Norway. I shipped 2 used Cannondales from the US to Norway already without any problems.

    Nice bike btw, good luck with the build.
    Roy

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by royalty View Post
    Hey Vegard,
    I take it you shipped your frame from the US to Norway for about 400$?
    Next time, you can take a look at jetcarrier.no they forward stuff from New Jersey to Norway. I shipped 2 used Cannondales from the US to Norway already without any problems.

    Nice bike btw, good luck with the build.
    Roy
    I actually ended up using jetcarrier (played paintball with some of the founders back in the day). They were the only real option as none of the regular postal carriers would transport it due to the size.

    And thanks!

    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Yeah, I'm anal about this too, can't stand seeing a nice bike with the logos not lined up with valve stems. Besides looking good, helps you locate the valve when you need to, most especially helpful when it's dark, changing a flat or just need to add air. Small FYI, not sure who else does it, but Maxxis actually only put the tyre name on the drive side of their tyres


    Forgot to say, bike looks sharp as hell, even if it is only a kiddie wheeler
    If you look closely you'll see that I had red nipples placed around the valve

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    I was actually just thinking what a nice build you've got there! They look gorgeous. Those P321 hubs are really sexy.

    Your bike is like my bikes fat sister (being full suss)
    It's going to be a sick bike for sure, putting on brakes tomorrow and then I'm having a proshop fit the cranks so i don't mess that up.

    Nothing wrong with some lovehandles

    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    Even if the stickers are coming off, middle of the tyre logo with the
    Valve stem

    Interested in what you think of the wheels, I am between tune or project321 hubs with arch ex rims!!
    I'll do a ride report in a few weeks when I have some miles down on the bike

  77. #77
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    You better hurry or your ice tyres will be no use!

    However I am in Finland at the moment and ski'd across a lake yesterday and drove across one today so you ice might be just as bad!??

  78. #78
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    Hehe, you have a point :P
    Chances are I need the spikers til april, it snowed here in june last year.

  79. #79
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    Red nipples... hehe.

  80. #80
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    GRRRRRRR, so I was working with my brand new BBB torque tool and first the screw that holds the ratchet lever FALLS out of the tool. I snap a photo and send it off to BBB and CRC, get told to just screw it back in place. OK...

    Moments later the torx bit I'm using at 6nm snaps in half.

    Park Tools here I come.

    Quote Originally Posted by Thatshowiroll View Post
    Red nipples... hehe.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    GRRRRRRR, so I was working with my brand new BBB torque tool and first the screw that holds the ratchet lever FALLS out of the tool. I snap a photo and send it off to BBB and CRC, get told to just screw it back in place. OK...

    Moments later the torx bit I'm using at 6nm snaps in half.

    Park Tools here I come.



    All of my tools are Park Tools, for exactly that reason.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  82. #82
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    Todays slight progress, mounted the brakes, still need to find some smaller zipties for the cables. I got an Epic kit for the cutting and bleeding so it should be a breeze.

    Other than that it's starting to look like a bike!


  83. #83
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    Building a Scalpel - My winter project for 2012/2013

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Todays slight progress, mounted the brakes, still need to find some smaller zipties for the cables. I got an Epic kit for the cutting and bleeding so it should be a breeze.

    Other than that it's starting to look like a bike!

    I think you'll be happier with the ergonomics if if you move the levers inboard, towards center, about 2 cm from the grip. This is a personal fit issue and everyone is different, but you might find the lever and shifters in exactly the right placement with this.

    Here's where I like mine.

    Building a Scalpel - My winter project for 2012/2013-imageuploadedbytapatalk1361760432.716247.jpg

  84. #84
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    Yeah, the above pics are more or less just mockups, full cockpit tuning will be done in the final moments before I spin off into the sunset.
    That's a nice bike, ultimate?

    I've cut down the hoses on the maguras, took 5 minutes to do and I didn't have to bleed them afterwards

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    So how many months left before the ice spike tires would need to be changed?

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    Late april, early may most likely.

    Been freakishly busy moving and what not, haven't had the time to complete her yet. I was hoping to get it all done today, but I ran into an issue with the shims so again I have to delay completion


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    Dont tell me you have moved from your house with the great view of the Fjord? Would kill for that!!

    We were in Lofoten Islands at new year and drove up and around Trollstigen last year, love the place!

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    Any progress Vegard?

    What do you think of that saddle? I can't find any information on it anywhere?

    What's it's actual weight? Also what are it's dimensions? I might stick one on my Flash.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

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    Quote Originally Posted by Flying_Scotsman View Post
    Dont tell me you have moved from your house with the great view of the Fjord? Would kill for that!!

    We were in Lofoten Islands at new year and drove up and around Trollstigen last year, love the place!
    I did, it was attached to an ex so I decided to move. Got a big yard now though, I get more use out of that than the atlantic ocean :P

    Lofoten is really nice in terms of the views, a bit too desolate for my tastes though.

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Any progress Vegard?

    What do you think of that saddle? I can't find any information on it anywhere?

    What's it's actual weight? Also what are it's dimensions? I might stick one on my Flash.
    Going on the first test run now, if I live and have internet access at the hospital I'll let you know!

    (I have a pic of the saddle on a weight somewhere, I'll look later)

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    It's alive!





    A screw on the derailleur snapped in half.. But I managed to get it working again, pics later.

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    She's a beauty!!!

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    Lovely! Nice one mate! Good to see that you finally got her all together!

    Make sure you put frame protector on the down tube, chain stays, head tube and the lefty (to prevent cable rub damage). I didn't do this and now my frame has lots of.... character
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

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    Great.

    Quote Originally Posted by Thatshowiroll View Post
    She's a beauty!!!
    Thanks

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Lovely! Nice one mate! Good to see that you finally got her all together!

    Make sure you put frame protector on the down tube, chain stays, head tube and the lefty (to prevent cable rub damage). I didn't do this and now my frame has lots of.... character
    Thanks, putting the final touches on it felt great Still need to adjust some of the stuff and get a new screw for the derailleur though.

    I put some on the downtube and on places where it seems like it would rub, I've yet to find something that'd suit the bb though.

    Here's the pics for you:



    I bought it on ebay from an Israeli account, not much to be said about it other than the fact that it has no padding, is very light and yet it felt better than anything else that I've tried. Take that with a grain of salt though, we'll see how it endures the next few weeks

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    Not sure if I should bother really, looks good as is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post


    Not sure if I should bother really, looks good as is.
    Definitely, don't even think about not using those! Take it from me, they'll look awesome!
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

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    Put them on, the setback on the seatpost was actually quite nice! Also got a Arundel sideloader cage.

    And for anyone speaking ill of the Maguras they've been working great for me

    SRAM isn't replying to me about that screw that broke, anyone know what spec it is?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post
    Put them on, the setback on the seatpost was actually quite nice! Also got a Arundel sideloader cage.

    And for anyone speaking ill of the Maguras they've been working great for me

    SRAM isn't replying to me about that screw that broke, anyone know what spec it is?
    Magura's are evil as far as I'm concerned (since you chose them over the Hopes).

    Buy some Race X2's already.

    Also, can you upload a photo of it with the new bars etc?
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

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    Building a Scalpel - My winter project for 2012/2013

    Quote Originally Posted by Vegard View Post


    Not sure if I should bother really, looks good as is.
    Vegard, nice build. Now that you have green FSA bar, is your Easton riser bar for sale? I replaced the flat Enve bar on my Scalpel for Easton aluminum 20mm rise bar to get a little less saddle-to-bar drop, but am looking for a mint carbon bar. PM me if interested. -Scott

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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott In MD View Post
    Vegard, nice build. Now that you have green FSA bar, is your Easton riser bar for sale? I replaced the flat Enve bar on my Scalpel for Easton aluminum 20mm rise bar to get a little less saddle-to-bar drop, but am looking for a mint carbon bar. PM me if interested. -Scott
    It's being sold locally, we're not on the same continent

    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Magura's are evil as far as I'm concerned (since you chose them over the Hopes).

    Buy some Race X2's already.

    Also, can you upload a photo of it with the new bars etc?
    If the Maguras somehow fail I'll get the Hopes for sure!
    Not the best pic, took it before a ride earlier today



    And my superexpensive headlight setup:
    Last edited by Vegard; 04-19-2013 at 09:08 AM.

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    $20 later I'm the proud new owner of a working limit screw for my derailleur.. Yay.

    And I actually discovered that my particular model of Maguras were specced for Cannondale, not sure which bike they came on though.
    Last edited by Vegard; 04-25-2013 at 04:56 AM.

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