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  1. #1
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    BB30 Backing Out...

    After my ride today, I gave my bike a scrubbin and noticed that the rag moved the BB cup(?). I grabbed a 40mm HS wrench and threaded it back in with half the force that I use to tighten crank arm bolts.

    1. Is this normal?
    2. How tight should the cup be?
    3. My crank takes a bit of force to turn. Is that normal?

    /noob

  2. #2
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    mpub

  3. #3
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    carbon si crank?

    it's not a cup...it's the bearing pre-load. It sounds like the set screw that holds it in place wasn't tight. Snug the 36mm (not 40mm?) (not tight, weight of the wrench horizontal is enough ..keep in mind the 3 piece units just need a wave washer to achieve proper pre-load), then hit your set screw 1.5mm to keep it in place.

    they should spin freely....as in I.P.

  4. #4
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    Yeah, it is a 36mm. I was using the same wrench that had the 40 on the other end. Didn't even notice the set screw (drowning in anti-seize).

    Thank you for great justice!

  5. #5
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    Didn't want to start another thread, but I am looking for proper tools for removal/installation of Si BB30? Any suggested sources? Thanks,

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cypress
    3. My crank takes a bit of force to turn. Is that normal?

    /noob
    When I have my bike on the workstand with the chain off, I spin my BB30 crank and I'm always amazed how frictionless it is. It spins for several turns - smooth as butter, friction seeming to have disappeared.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by jdp526
    Didn't want to start another thread, but I am looking for proper tools for removal/installation of Si BB30? Any suggested sources? Thanks,
    1) Check ebay. They come up every once in a while very cheap: here is a recently closed auction for all three tools (KT010, KT011, KT013): http://cgi.ebay.com/Cannondale-SI-Cr...QQcmdZViewItem

    Funny thing about eBay is that sometimes some tools go for outrageous prices, like this one, for KT013 only: http://cgi.ebay.com/Cannondale-SI-Cr...QQcmdZViewItem

    2) there are a few on-line stores that sell them. Universal Cycles is one. (www.universalcycles.com). They are frequently out-of-stock, but they often carry KT010, KT011. But they don't have KT013.

  8. #8
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    Thanks for the leads, Almonte! I have a used Carbon Rush that will be here Tues and I would like to service the BB when needed.

  9. #9
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    Cypress, sorry for continuing to hijack your thread.

    jpd526: New listing on eBay: http://cgi.ebay.com/Cannondale-SI-Cr...QQcmdZViewItem

    $40 shipped for all three tools

    Quote Originally Posted by jdp526
    Thanks for the leads, Almonte! I have a used Carbon Rush that will be here Tues and I would like to service the BB when needed.

  10. #10
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    Thanks, Al, ordered today!

  11. #11
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    No worries for the hijack.

    I actually need more help... My BB30 SL cranks are creaking something awful. Easy fix without the holy grail of specialty tools?

  12. #12
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    I have only glanced at the tech papers on the bb30. Are the bearings simply pressed into place? What will keep them from eventually rocking or loosening up, especially in the carbon bb shells?

  13. #13
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    creaks?

    so, is this new bb30 hologram SL creaky in general?
    anyone else have that issue?

    I'm debating putting it on my rize as I have one one avail on my wife's bike... but my race face has been quiet. the 200 or so grams is appetizing, but not if it ends up loud...?

    Thx,
    holiday

  14. #14
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    I hope there is some sort of fix for this. My bike is only 3 weeks old, and the carbon frame acts like a megaphone.

    Good for scaring wildlife and alerting hikers, but embarrassing to have on a new $5500 bike.

  15. #15
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    pull bearings + green loctite

    Most BB30 systems have the bearings loctitied into the cups.

    I would pull the bearings, clean the inside of the cups/outer surface of bearings carefully w/ some solvent, and use green loctitie when you press them back in.

    Green loctite is for "slip fit" systems and not the same as the loctite used for threads.

    When you put the cranks back on make sure there is grease on the BB spindle/bearing interface.

    That should do you!

  16. #16
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    That's what I was going to suggest: take it apart, clean everything, relube and re-assemble.

    DAN.GEROUS.NET : MOUNTAIN BIKING : CYCLOCROSS : ROAD :

  17. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by ARider
    Most BB30 systems have the bearings loctitied into the cups.

    I would pull the bearings, clean the inside of the cups/outer surface of bearings carefully w/ some solvent, and use green loctitie when you press them back in.

    Green loctite is for "slip fit" systems and not the same as the loctite used for threads.

    When you put the cranks back on make sure there is grease on the BB spindle/bearing interface.

    That should do you!

    I assume this will require the spec tools.... right?

  18. #18
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    I just got in the tools this evening for removing the BB30 crank on the used Rush I received a couple of days ago. I haven't had enough time to go over the bike but it looks like there may be alumun cups in the carbon BB shell. I wonder how may times you can get away with removal/replacement of bearings before there's noticable wear in the cups.

  19. #19
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    So, my dealer was kind enough to include all of the tools required to get the cranks off. I took them off, punched the spindle almost out, greased everything and put it back together.

    Here's the biggie: The 3 nylon washers in between the crank arm and the thick black spacer... these are for bearing preload... right? The cranks had a notchy stiff feeling before I took everything apart. I removed the washers and tightened the crankarm and it spun freely. I put 2 washers on and it was notchy. I tried one washer and the compression washer was fully compressed and the cranks spun freely. I left it at that...

    Did I do the right thing?

  20. #20
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    Just curious: are you supposed to use a headset press or other bearing press to install the bearings?

  21. #21
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    mpbu

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