2019 Scalpel-SI with Lefty Ocho - Page 3- Mtbr.com
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  1. #401
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    Itís available as an aftermarket item already, just installed on my 2017 Scalpel Si.

    Attachment 1246573
    Attachment 1246574
    How much did it cost as aftermarket?

  2. #402
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    Quote Originally Posted by kanetrader View Post
    fot you it fits, for me not.. strange.... I now run a 32, but would love to ride a 34 ......
    How close were you? I wonder if you could use a 3mm spacer?
    D
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  3. #403
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    Quote Originally Posted by gustavo.ghd View Post
    How much did it cost as aftermarket?
    Around US$ 1540 list price

  4. #404
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    Delete
    Last edited by jschoef; 04-15-2019 at 01:13 PM. Reason: Forgot to quote

  5. #405
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    Around US$ 1540 list price
    What did you notice in regards to ride quality from the 2.0? Do you need to perform bearing resets?

  6. #406
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    Makes up-hill much easier due to an empty wallet

  7. #407
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    Quote Originally Posted by Howards View Post
    Makes up-hill much easier due to an empty wallet
    Did he pay with coins?

  8. #408
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteo View Post
    How close were you? I wonder if you could use a 3mm spacer?
    D
    I was pritty close, but the chain ring was just a little bit hitting the alu protector at he high point... I dont know about a spacer... is there a link and maybe extended vieuw?

  9. #409
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    Quote Originally Posted by kanetrader View Post
    I was pritty close, but the chain ring was just a little bit hitting the alu protector at he high point... I dont know about a spacer... is there a link and maybe extended vieuw?
    I'll be working on my bike in a little while, will measure how much clearance I have.
    D
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  10. #410
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    Iím on XTR Ltd and it has spiderring 34t. No issues in clearance

  11. #411
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboKoo View Post
    Iím on XTR Ltd and it has spiderring 34t. No issues in clearance
    But that isn't oval.

  12. #412
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    I have a 36 Wolftooth on my bike and a 34 oval Absolute Black on my wifeís. Both are SI cranksets.

  13. #413
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    Hi, I just got my first ride in today on my new Scalpel Si 4 Carbon with Lefty Ocho. I upgraded the bars to Renthal Fat Carbon Lite 40mm risers and Easton EC70 stem and seatpost C Carbon so it is very lightweight for the standard balistec carbon frame and alloy ocho. As a mature road rider I was looking for comfort and lightweight and it has both big time. I have already ordered Absolute Black 32T oval ring to go on spare Hollowgram SiSL2 cranks off my road bike. So far the Lefty Ocho is amazing in its performance, I will post a detailed review.


  14. #414
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    Okay, here goes! Just took delivery of my new Scalpel Si 4 Carbon with alloy Lefty Ocho fork. I upgraded to carbon riser bars and stem and a carbon seatpost and a more shapely Fabric Radius saddle, so weight is a feathery-for-full-suspension 25 lbs. Had the dealership setup the fork and shock with initial sag settings and a couple curb rolloffs for rebound, set the tires at 29 front / 33 rear. At 5'8 1/2" and 170 lbs. the medium frame is a perfect fit. Full disclosure, I am not an XC racer or marathon trail rider, I am a 59+ year old avid road rider with lots of new opportunities to ride gravel roads, rails to trails, light XC trails, fast rough paved paths, as well as singletrack at many area parks. So, I am reviewing the Scalpel Si for versatility in a lightweight, short travel trail bike and not as a XC racer, at which it already excels.

  15. #415
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    The Scalpel Si is already well known to Cannondale fans as their world class full-suspension XC race bike, very lightweight and capable, with Lefty fork in most cases. The new for '19 Lefty Ocho is a significant refinement of the mono-strut front end on an already excellent frame and single-pivot, flex-stay rear end. Although fork and shock are 100mm travel on the XC race models, up to 120mm fork and 115mm travel shock are easily fitted and come on some versions. This is part of what makes a Scalpel, and other similar platforms, excellent short/mid-travel light trail bikes with the feathery weight of a XC racer for easy pedaling and the grip and cush for light to medium trails. There, the secret is out, a lightweight full-suspension XC bike trimmed out for a bit more travel, wider tires, comfy bar angle, etc. makes a fantastic general gravel road and light trail bike for non-racey adults.

  16. #416
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    Quote Originally Posted by jschoef View Post
    What did you notice in regards to ride quality from the 2.0? Do you need to perform bearing resets?
    It's as stiff as Lefty 2.0 , but more plush and significant improvement in small bump sensitivity, easier to obtain full travel during the ride. Needle migration still there, as long as you set the correct air pressure, the bearings are being reset during the ride when you bottom out the fork, so no big issue for it. Lighter feel at the front end, results in better cornering and sharper turn. Great upgrade for the Scalpel Si, makes the bike more fun to ride.

  17. #417
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    As to specifics, I took my new Scalpel Si with preliminary setup today to a local park with a variety of paved paths, dry dirt forest trails criss-crossed with logs and limbs, and rocky single-track worthy of a DH rig and body armour. I tested the travel of fork and shock and compression and rebound dials carefully several times as I began to progress to bumpier terrain, trying to balance the two as best possible as I got the feel of their reactions. The Lefty Ocho up front is the compelling new interest so let me describe it first. Very smooth on small hits, very solid feeling for its equivalent weight/travel class. The new cable operated remote control is an important update and works not as a full lockout, but as a dual-range compresion control which essentially twists the master compression knob atop the strut four clicks higher, or about a third of its range increase. This means that you can tune the range on the fly by reaching down and turning the dial's range and then control it up or down four clicks up or down with the remote. Mated with a 2-position remote rear shock they both operate similarly, providing a very tuneable dual-range suspension front and rear. That is arguably superior in useability and hardware protection to full-lockout systems and surpassed only by active systems. So, the Lefty Ocho once setup carefully over several static and dynamic tests in the open setting took about 140psi to support my 170lbs. it seems to want just two or three more psi than recommended but then feels quite plush and uses most but not quite all of its travel over heavy hits. The remote actuated firm-pedalling mode makes a noticeble but not mandatory difference sprinting on flats and climbing, honestly the front end is very stable just left in open mode. What is impressive is the combination of super smooth low speed action and solid, stable, bottomless feeling takeup of big hits. I am very far from an enduro rider and the Ocho saved my face and more as I pushed its limits over bigger rocks, nosestanding more than once the ocho smoothly took all my weight, kept me from going over the bars with no binding or bottoming jolt and smoothly rebounded me back up and forward. In over my head, clearly beyond the limits of my technique, the ocho performed beyond the call of duty by being very stable and forgiving rather than the tweaky, exotic racing fork some might expect. Once balanced carefully as to rebound reaction as well as sag, and that is very important, the rear shock Rockshox Monarch RL worked excellently. Took two or three small incremental adjustments and ended up with around 155lbs. just less than the initial recommendation to get 25-30% sag which felt plush but supportive and matched closely the feel and reaction of the fork. I can't stress enough that small changes in the suspension setup can make significant differences in performance and balance front to rear is critical. This is a thoroughbred racing platform as sensitive as it is capable. Rebound settings came in just on the light side with three to four clicks in from open for the Lefty and four to five in for the shock for nimble reaction over roots and rocks. In a nutshell, after one brief first day test ride, I am very pleased and proud of the Scalpel's performance over a variety of surfaces, amazed by the super-smooth Lefty Ocho fighting well above its travel class, and looking forward to riding more trails! Stay tuned for inevitable further upgrades!

  18. #418
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannosseur View Post
    Stay tuned for inevitable further upgrades!
    Thanks for the excellent, detailed ride report!

  19. #419
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    It's as stiff as Lefty 2.0 , but more plush and significant improvement in small bump sensitivity, easier to obtain full travel during the ride. Needle migration still there, as long as you set the correct air pressure, the bearings are being reset during the ride when you bottom out the fork, so no big issue for it. Lighter feel at the front end, results in better cornering and sharper turn. Great upgrade for the Scalpel Si, makes the bike more fun to ride.
    So on the 2.0, the migration doesnít self reset on bottom out as it requires significant force. So on the Ocho, it is easier?
    Last edited by jschoef; 04-17-2019 at 01:16 PM.

  20. #420
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    no its the same. the ocho is less likely to migrate because all the bearings are tied together. All 3 sets have to slip at the same time. In the 2.0 only one out of the 4 needed to slip.

    The ocho is less stiff than the 2.0. Don't even go there. Cannondale even says it's less stiff. It's immediately noticeable, but it's way lighter.

  21. #421
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    Cannondale cites 14% less torsional stiffness as adding forgiveness under cornering as tradeoff as well as lightness. After two short test rides I agree the Ocho is plush on small hits and uses 80 - 90% of its travel over a moderate mix of bumps but feels quite smooth, suddenly progressive and relatively "bottomless" at max compression. It gives the impression of being a 120mm shock in a 100mm travel body. Perhaps most importantly it seems very smooth and very supportive in the middle of its range cruising over small to medium hits at speed, as noted using quite a bit of its travel because of its low stiction ("shaft action slipperiness"). So, as appropriate, for fast smooth to medium smooth XC tracks the Ocho should deliver outstanding performance and still be capable on the more gnarly technical sections for its weight.

  22. #422
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    A couple more follow up notes after a couple more rides over a mix of suburban paved paths, construction site gravel and dirt, curb jumping and grass banks, the Scalpel definitely excels at light bumps at a brisk pace, smoothing out broken pavement and curbs without missing a pedal stroke. Feels almost like a road bike in weight and acceleration considering the 2.25" tires. Compared again briefly at the dealership to an alloy Scalpel 5 with the Lefty 2.0, I would agree the previous version feels a bit stiffer but not as plush over small hits and a bit heavier in weight balance to the front end. The Ocho may have a tiny bit more wobble type of flex under big hits or hard fast corners as they admit but has this super smooth lack of binding and wide use of the middle range of the travel that is part of its design's justification. I'm guessing the elimination of the upper structure by going to the single crown design lessened the strength but also shaved a lot of weight and is aesthetically quite sleek. I found that brisk light trail riding and suburban curb hopping just pedalling along seated is a delight, cruising over sudden bumps without missing a stroke. The Ocho again seemed to use around 80% of its travel over moderate hits but never felt like it hit bottom even riding over a 4" square curb. I'm guessing this is the Ocho mojo or its forte for its size and weight class is the way it seems like longer travel than it is but super soft at first then long smooth travel middle range with pretty quick rebound, then ramps up quite progressive at the end of travel. This makes it feel like it has slightly longer smoother travel than other same length 100mm forks. Again, I am more a roadie and gravel rider so I am describing how it feels to me compared to similar models with a fox 32sc or rs sid etc. I have tested.

  23. #423
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cannosseur View Post
    A couple more follow up notes after a couple more rides over a mix of suburban paved paths, construction site gravel and dirt, curb jumping and grass banks, the Scalpel definitely excels at light bumps at a brisk pace, smoothing out broken pavement and curbs without missing a pedal stroke. Feels almost like a road bike in weight and acceleration considering the 2.25" tires. Compared again briefly at the dealership to an alloy Scalpel 5 with the Lefty 2.0, I would agree the previous version feels a bit stiffer but not as plush over small hits and a bit heavier in weight balance to the front end. The Ocho may have a tiny bit more wobble type of flex under big hits or hard fast corners as they admit but has this super smooth lack of binding and wide use of the middle range of the travel that is part of its design's justification. I'm guessing the elimination of the upper structure by going to the single crown design lessened the strength but also shaved a lot of weight and is aesthetically quite sleek. I found that brisk light trail riding and suburban curb hopping just pedalling along seated is a delight, cruising over sudden bumps without missing a stroke. The Ocho again seemed to use around 80% of its travel over moderate hits but never felt like it hit bottom even riding over a 4" square curb. I'm guessing this is the Ocho mojo or its forte for its size and weight class is the way it seems like longer travel than it is but super soft at first then long smooth travel middle range with pretty quick rebound, then ramps up quite progressive at the end of travel. This makes it feel like it has slightly longer smoother travel than other same length 100mm forks. Again, I am more a roadie and gravel rider so I am describing how it feels to me compared to similar models with a fox 32sc or rs sid etc. I have tested.
    Thatís exactly what I feel!!

  24. #424
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    Well consensus is good that the Ocho seems to be relatively stiff in its upper, being an upside downer after all, and particularly for a single-crown single-sided fork, in its weight and travel class and has plush small hit reaction as well as very smooth and solid support for all out action. This afternoon I had a young (17) very skilled (regional champ CX) rider take my Scalpel for a performance test over pavement, dirt, grass, curbs, medians, islands etc. wheelying and bunny hopping like a young champ. His comments were "really light for a full-suspension bike, handles killer like an F-Si and the fork is amazing for only 100mm!" he called out as he nosed it up hard onto the fork over a curb onto a grassy island, then let it spring back up and on to the next stunt. Fun to watch, the Scalpel with the Lefty Ocho can definitely kick some butt in the hands and feet of the gifted and I am more than happy as a path and trail cruiser with the light weight and excellent ride.

  25. #425
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    Got a 2019 carbon 2 yellow/blue - fantastic bike..

    But

    Creaks from the bb like my old supersix

    This it the yellow/blue model... after one(1) day riding in the spring sun with some dirt on the frame, everything but the dirty areas have been very visually faded in color!!! Wtf. Has Cannondale not heard about UV resistant colors? I can't imagine what the summer sun will do!!!!

    Anybody seen this thing too? Of cause there is a exemption in the warranty rules against this - but this seems like a defect...

  26. #426
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    Most likely needs grease at all pivots. Factory probably didnít grease. You need to follow the instructions on how to dismantle and grease.

  27. #427
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    James55- welcome to PressFit. My Scalpel 2 was a thing of silence on the trainer for some time and then one day I thought I felt something strange while pedalling, looked down and thought I saw my foot shift laterally. Strange, I got off and was able to move the crank assembly 3mm side to side. Needless to say I was not amused.

    The axle/BB bolt had come loose. Dug up the install instructions, loosened the pinch ring, re-torqued the bolt, tapped with a mallet, tightened the torque ring (tapping it a bit tighter) and now I can hear it creak on the trainer when really pushing it, but have on ridden it on the road once and it was quiet.

    The instructions do say to apply grease to the mating surfaces if it creaks which once outside will see if it still does.

    Not happy to hear about the paint fade though... but then also not happy to hear about the seal leak in some of the Ochoís either...
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  28. #428
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    Around US$ 1540 list price
    Hey man, can see you're riding a race the same as me. Do you have anymore photos of it? Did you have to change the lockout system? The Scalpel race SI obviously has a hydraulic lockout switch which operates the Lefty and the rear shock, just wondering how you got around it as I heard the Ocho is cable only?
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  29. #429
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteo View Post
    .

    Not happy to hear about the paint fade though... but then also not happy to hear about the seal leak in some of the Ochoís either...
    Oh Yeah - mine ocho seems to leak oil also, a constant film on the lower leg... time to call the lbs i guess

  30. #430
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteo View Post
    The axle/BB bolt had come loose. Dug up the install instructions, loosened the pinch ring, re-torqued the bolt, tapped with a mallet, tightened the torque ring (tapping it a bit tighter) and now I can hear it creak on the trainer when really pushing it, but have on ridden it on the road once and it was quiet.
    Took apart the SRAM crank and spider and greased it all up good - no difference...

    Then took apart the lower link pivot(?) and did the same, greased it up good and put it together again... - silence even when pushing hard

    So it seems like a sloppy grease job from the factory!

  31. #431
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjames55 View Post
    Took apart the SRAM crank and spider and greased it all up good - no difference...

    Then took apart the lower link pivot(?) and did the same, greased it up good and put it together again... - silence even when pushing hard

    So it seems like a sloppy grease job from the factory!
    Thanks James - first ride on trails on the bike for me tonight, will see what it is like. My trainer ride yesterday was creaky and seemed to be getting worse. Will check the torque on the crank bolt before I head out and if creaky creaky will grease everything.
    D
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  32. #432
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjames55 View Post
    Took apart the SRAM crank and spider and greased it all up good - no difference...

    Then took apart the lower link pivot(?) and did the same, greased it up good and put it together again... - silence even when pushing hard

    So it seems like a sloppy grease job from the factory!
    Sounds like a common issue these days.. I used to own a 2016 Habit and the comments in the Habit thread mentioned that grease was lacking at linkges and pivots too.


    Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

  33. #433
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    I gotta say.... DAMN! I love this bike! Much faster than my Niner was, quicker, smoother... damn skippy!!

    Iím changing out the rear hub going to put in the new I9 Hydra going from my Kappius with 240 pts of engagement to 54 or less with the DT Swiss is not even in the same ballpark for engagement.

    Also happy to announce no creaking on the trail, guess I just donít put as much power down riding in real life as I do on the trainer. Will still take apart and grease everything but at least it was silent on my maiden trail ride.

    Oh... and the 3 guys i rode by that commented on my bike... it was like a Mastercard commercial - Priceless!!

    D
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  34. #434
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    Quote Originally Posted by BoostN7 View Post
    Hey man, can see you're riding a race the same as me. Do you have anymore photos of it? Did you have to change the lockout system? The Scalpel race SI obviously has a hydraulic lockout switch which operates the Lefty and the rear shock, just wondering how you got around it as I heard the Ocho is cable only?
    You are right, I need to get a new rear shock as well. I have ordered the Fox Float DPS remote lockout shock, in the mean time, I am using DT shock with normal lockout. Once the Fox shock arrives, I will install it to work with the Fox PTU remote with Ocho.

  35. #435
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteo View Post
    I gotta say.... DAMN! I love this bike! Much faster than my Niner was, quicker, smoother... damn skippy!!

    Iím changing out the rear hub going to put in the new I9 Hydra going from my Kappius with 240 pts of engagement to 54 or less with the DT Swiss is not even in the same ballpark for engagement.

    Also happy to announce no creaking on the trail, guess I just donít put as much power down riding in real life as I do on the trainer. Will still take apart and grease everything but at least it was silent on my maiden trail ride.

    Oh... and the 3 guys i rode by that commented on my bike... it was like a Mastercard commercial - Priceless!!

    D
    Which Niner did you come from? I'm considering the Jet.

  36. #436
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    Quote Originally Posted by bikenut316 View Post
    Which Niner did you come from? I'm considering the Jet.
    Jet 9RDO, it was the 2015 version which they have changed. One thing I found interesting on my ride was how light the Scalpel felt, but according to the scale it actually weighed more than my niner.

    The comparable bike now would be the RKT I think.

    2019 Scalpel-SI with Lefty Ocho-c219b138-3190-44c5-a332-6c3ab9a5c2c7.jpg
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  37. #437
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    You are right, I need to get a new rear shock as well. I have ordered the Fox Float DPS remote lockout shock, in the mean time, I am using DT shock with normal lockout. Once the Fox shock arrives, I will install it to work with the Fox PTU remote with Ocho.
    I'm somewhat confused... do you have a photo of your setup? Trying to work out what I need.
    and no, I am not missing the other half of my fork....

  38. #438
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    Whereas the previous version used a hydraulic remote, the Ocho employs a cable remote and comes stock with the Fox remote lever which is capable of single or double cable action (notice the second hole in the remote housing). So, you only need to get a remote-actuated shock like the Float DPS 2-Pos version and install the second cable from the remote. Also, although the stock shock spec is 190x46 (=100mm travel) a 190x51mm (=115mm travel) bolts right on a regular Scalpel Si and provides the extra travel capacity without the link or swing arm of the Scalpel SE. Note that the team bikes in most recent photos have the shock reversed so that the head of the shock is to the rear with the control lever/dial facing upwards, this allows the remote cable to run straight from the top tube opening back to the cable fixture on the shock instead of bending in a tight loop. I have ordered a Fox Float Factory DPS 2-Pos 190x51mm shock to employ this slick trick.

  39. #439
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteo View Post
    Jet 9RDO, it was the 2015 version which they have changed. One thing I found interesting on my ride was how light the Scalpel felt, but according to the scale it actually weighed more than my niner.

    The comparable bike now would be the RKT I think.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Guess you are a lefty fan. lol

  40. #440
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    Quote Originally Posted by jjames55 View Post
    Oh Yeah - mine ocho seems to leak oil also, a constant film on the lower leg... time to call the lbs i guess
    Same with mine, started leaking seriously after about 200 km. LBS sent it back to the dealer, apparently it's just a problem with the seal. Should be back begging of next week.
    Other than that I'm super happy with the bike (carbon 2).

    Regarding the chainring size - I swapped truvativ for hollowgram cranks from my 2016 scalpel and I'm running it with 34 oval absolute black ring. LBS had some problems fitting it, as I also have a power meter on the left arm, but somehow they managed it. Not much clearance on both sides but no rubbing either.

  41. #441
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    I am thinking about buying the new 2019 SCALPEL-SI CARBON 3
    I am currently riding a 2014 Scalpel Team, Large frame, yet I am running the longer / raised stem and my seat post is offset all so I can ďsqueezeĒ onto my bike. Iím 6í1, 220 lbs. Big guy.
    My question is should I consider going for the XL frame as opposed to the Large frame and then modify to a longer stem, seat post etc.
    I have always been told if possible its always better to fit into a smaller frame if at all possible yet as I get older 56, ,not sure which direction to go.

  42. #442
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    At 6'1" you are textbook for a Large but depending upon your inseam in proportion which will dictate your standover clearance. If you can stand comfortably over an XL with just a smidge of crotch clearance you could consider it if you have really long arms and or torso. An XL would typically be for someone 6'2-3" and 6'4" and over J (XXL) but everyone varies in proportions. I highly recommend trying both at your Cannondale dealer.

  43. #443
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    I'm 188 cm (about 6'2), riding size L scalpel and it feels perfect. Stock seatpost, stem, etc.
    If you have access to XL, it's definitely worth trying. But if not, I would say you should be fine with L.

  44. #444
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    same here, oil leak after a 1000km... back to lbs, who did as it was the first time, but I know more ocho owners has this problem. hope it will be solved soon and def. but very happy with the Scalpel, super light feeling in steering and super fast ridable bike.

  45. #445
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    Mine is also sent for service due to oil leak. About same kmís with 1000km on the clock.

  46. #446
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    I wonder if it was just someone with long pointy finger nails on the assembly line?

    At 1000+km hopefully that is after my first big race of the season.
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  47. #447
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    How often do you reset bearings on Lefty Ocho ? Mine comes short 1.5 cm after every ride, 2 cm after several rides. I'd say that is too fast. What can I do to prolong time between bearing resets ?

  48. #448
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    Thats how the 2.0 is too. After 4-6 hours or riding I'm down 30+mm. The only way to supposedly prolong it is to ride it softer then you might be so you bottom out periodically on a ride to reset while riding. On the 2.0 this does not work as you need a significant hit with no air in the shock to reset it. How much force does it take on the Ocho?

  49. #449
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    Quote Originally Posted by jschoef View Post
    Thats how the 2.0 is too. After 4-6 hours or riding I'm down 30+mm. The only way to supposedly prolong it is to ride it softer then you might be so you bottom out periodically on a ride to reset while riding. On the 2.0 this does not work as you need a significant hit with no air in the shock to reset it. How much force does it take on the Ocho?
    So, between what you are saying and what scalpel226 said a couple weeks ago ďIt's as stiff as Lefty 2.0 , but more plush and significant improvement in small bump sensitivity, easier to obtain full travel during the ride. Needle migration still there, as long as you set the correct air pressure, the bearings are being reset during the ride when you bottom out the fork, so no big issue for it. Lighter feel at the front end, results in better cornering and sharper turn. Great upgrade for the Scalpel Si, makes the bike more fun to ride.Ē

    Would it make sense if you wanted to reset it to remove all the air and do a couple full compression cycles through it? Kinda a reverse of resetting the bearings in Version 1?

    D
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  50. #450
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteo View Post
    So, between what you are saying and what scalpel226 said a couple weeks ago ďIt's as stiff as Lefty 2.0 , but more plush and significant improvement in small bump sensitivity, easier to obtain full travel during the ride. Needle migration still there, as long as you set the correct air pressure, the bearings are being reset during the ride when you bottom out the fork, so no big issue for it. Lighter feel at the front end, results in better cornering and sharper turn. Great upgrade for the Scalpel Si, makes the bike more fun to ride.Ē

    Would it make sense if you wanted to reset it to remove all the air and do a couple full compression cycles through it? Kinda a reverse of resetting the bearings in Version 1?

    D
    Yes, thatís exactly how you do the 2.0 and Ocho. You have to slam it though.

  51. #451
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    Quote Originally Posted by jschoef View Post
    Yes, thatís exactly how you do the 2.0 and Ocho. You have to slam it though.
    Thanks!
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  52. #452
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    2019 Scalpel-SI with Lefty Ocho-59498386_10156265548403059_7878524219204567040_o.jpg

    When I push the remote button to unlock the Ocho fork, the compression knob turns clockwise at the same time, that's normal. However, the compression knob doesn't turn back when I release the remote button for locking-out the Ocho. If you lock and unlock the Ocho few times, actually the compression knob is turned clockwise few times, it means adding more and more compression on it. Is there something wrong inside the lockout mechanism or compression knob?

    P.S. the compression knob screw is tightened to manufacturer torque 0.85 Nm

  53. #453
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    Most probably the cap is tightened too hard.

  54. #454
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    Quote Originally Posted by TurboKoo View Post
    Most probably the cap is tightened too hard.
    Not really!

  55. #455
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    Off the top of my head isnít there a thin O-ring between the cap and the top of the Ocho? Might it be dried out or possibly pinched? I know the instructions were clear on torque for that cap, I tightened mine up just enough to seat the cap.
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  56. #456
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    Quote Originally Posted by osteo View Post
    Off the top of my head isnít there a thin O-ring between the cap and the top of the Ocho? Might it be dried out or possibly pinched? I know the instructions were clear on torque for that cap, I tightened mine up just enough to seat the cap.
    Take off the cap, lube the seal with 2.5 wt suspension oil, tighten it just enough to seat the cap, no luck at all......

  57. #457
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    Click image for larger version. 

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    When I push the remote button to unlock the Ocho fork, the compression knob turns clockwise at the same time, that's normal. However, the compression knob doesn't turn back when I release the remote button for locking-out the Ocho. If you lock and unlock the Ocho few times, actually the compression knob is turned clockwise few times, it means adding more and more compression on it. Is there something wrong inside the lockout mechanism or compression knob?

    P.S. the compression knob screw is tightened to manufacturer torque 0.85 Nm
    When you LOCK the fork and the dial doesnít turn, is it actually locking out?

    I would disassemble and reassemble, making sure you lubricate the seal; as well as, making sure the return spring is properly placed and seated.

    WARNING: be careful when you disassemble, make sure its in the LOCKED position, as the spring preload can cause parts to fly...

    When you reassemble, donít torque the compression dial screw all the way. Screw enough to engage the splines and then seat the seal by turning the compression adjustment dial all the way clockwise and then all the way out. At this point, torque to 0.85 NM.

    2019 Scalpel-SI with Lefty Ocho-61fa0705-479b-4625-a77f-0b0b3f397247.jpg

  58. #458
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    Take off the cap, lube the seal with 2.5 wt suspension oil, tighten it just enough to seat the cap, no luck at all......
    If I remember correctly, you paid good money aftermarket for that Ocho. I would contact who you purchased it from.

  59. #459
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    Quote Originally Posted by trauma-md View Post
    When you LOCK the fork and the dial doesnít turn, is it actually locking out?

    I would disassemble and reassemble, making sure you lubricate the seal; as well as, making sure the return spring is properly placed and seated.

    WARNING: be careful when you disassemble, make sure its in the LOCKED position, as the spring preload can cause parts to fly...

    When you reassemble, donít torque the compression dial screw all the way. Screw enough to engage the splines and then seat the seal by turning the compression adjustment dial all the way clockwise and then all the way out. At this point, torque to 0.85 NM.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I will ask the local dealer try to disassemble and reassemble it and see how it goes, thanks

  60. #460
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    Quote Originally Posted by norty_mtb View Post
    If I remember correctly, you paid good money aftermarket for that Ocho. I would contact who you purchased it from.
    You are right, I will contact the local Cannondale dealer.......thanks

  61. #461
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    The seal around the compression knob needs to be lubed. Put some light weight oil on the knob and work it into the seal. Also make sure the seal lip is not stuck under the knob.

    The spring release can be set to 3 different strengths of return. Factory is in the middle. You can set it to slow and that helps not move the knob out of adjustment.

    The problem is there is stiction between the knob and seal. When released quickly the knob does not break stiction and self adjusts itself about one click. Its a compromise, you need a good seal to keep dirt out but it needs to be lubed so it can turn (when its supposed to)

    Evolution Training Cycles

  62. #462
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    Quote Originally Posted by rupps5 View Post
    The seal around the compression knob needs to be lubed. Put some light weight oil on the knob and work it into the seal. Also make sure the seal lip is not stuck under the knob.

    The spring release can be set to 3 different strengths of return. Factory is in the middle. You can set it to slow and that helps not move the knob out of adjustment.

    The problem is there is stiction between the knob and seal. When released quickly the knob does not break stiction and self adjusts itself about one click. Its a compromise, you need a good seal to keep dirt out but it needs to be lubed so it can turn (when its supposed to)

    Evolution Training Cycles
    Thanks for the great tips, I have done all of the above but no luck! Bring the bike back to the local Cannondale dealer, they swapped another compression knob on my Ocho, problem solved immediately! Would be tolerance or QC problem of the compression knob and make it very sticky! No idea at all indeed, as long as it works again, I wonít bother it.

  63. #463
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    Quote Originally Posted by scalpel226 View Post
    Thanks for the great tips, I have done all of the above but no luck! Bring the bike back to the local Cannondale dealer, they swapped another compression knob on my Ocho, problem solved immediately! Would be tolerance or QC problem of the compression knob and make it very sticky! No idea at all indeed, as long as it works again, I wonít bother it.
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  64. #464
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    Quote Originally Posted by BorisGoreta View Post
    How often do you reset bearings on Lefty Ocho ? Mine comes short 1.5 cm after every ride, 2 cm after several rides. I'd say that is too fast. What can I do to prolong time between bearing resets ?
    I was down an inch in 2 hours. I sent the ocho back again. I rode for 2 hours again and it had no or next to no migration.

    They took out a volume reducer. Also I believe the have new specs in adjusting the bearing pre load, when building and servicing ochos.

  65. #465
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    I thought the bearing migration issue on the Lefty 2 had now been permanently resolved with the Ocho....seems not to be the case

  66. #466
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    The major change was that they fixed the three bearing sheets together in a carrier.

    But if the factory pre-load is too slack, all three sheets will migrate together, carrier or no carrier.

  67. #467
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    I can confirm also that as delivered my Ocho compression knob would bind slightly and not lock out properly but just move to higher compression setting by a few clicks. After removing it, lubing the seal with high quality light oil and gently retightening it the lockout and release work properly.

  68. #468
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    I absolutely love mine. Finally rode it for the first time and it has a slacker feel to it. I had two scalpel si prior to this one and it does handle different. That ocho fork is very plush and with the vast majority of cross country bikes getting slacker and running 120 front forks this seems
    To trend that way as well making it more forgiving on the descents IMO.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2019 Scalpel-SI with Lefty Ocho-edc6668f-6efb-4174-b52f-89229a2fca8a.jpg  


  69. #469
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    New question here.

    Thought Iíd chirp on the thread today, I love my Scalpel! Thankfully no Ocho leaks (knock knock...) but had my first race on it on Saturday (Mohican) and once I got used to the slick rocks and roots with those tires it was a blast.

    Iíve done a changes to the bike, will start off with those:

    Absolute Black Oval 34t Chainring, loving it!
    Industry 9 rear Hydra Hub - damn skippy!! Loving the killer bees!
    Specialized Phenom Pro saddle.
    ESI Extra Chunky grips
    Magura Vyron Dropper - for use at Breck Epic this year, Iíll put it on about a month before so I can get used to it again.


    I think someone mentioned how pressure sensitive the Ocho is at some point, and I agree. I used a ShockWiz to help me tune both the front and rear and found I had a slight discrepancy in pressure readings between my shock pump and the Shockwiz - so when I prepped the bike for the race I think I put in about 4-5psi more than I should have which I noticed within the first few hundred meters one the single track.

    Now that I think about it, I was planning on giving pure rave reviews!! But do have another point to mention... as noted pages back, I built up the bike myself and pre-race prep for me is to take the torque wrench and go over every nut and bolt on the bike, every one gets touched. I found the lower non-drive side pivot bolt to be way out of torque - lesson for me reaffirms to check everything. Torquing it, also returned a creak I noticed when on the trainer, which means I will be taking the rear triangle off and applying a bit of grease.

    None of that is earth shattering, and could be the case with any new bike - but damn does it handle well!!!

    I Donít think this is a factor of the hub or maybe I have a better aero position (highly unlikely) but there was more than a few instances going downhill at Mohican that I would be behind other riders, tuck down and easily blow past them at the bottom of the hill, coasting faster and going farther, and nope, was not in their draft.

    Iím super pleased with the bike and considering it weighs more than my Niner did, itís hard to notice.

    Oh, also made a mount for a spare tube just below the water bottle cage, think Iíll make another to put my tools on the seat tube cage mount.

    D
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  70. #470
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    Shock Mount

    I've had my HM1 for a couple weeks now. I've noticed some bikes pictured have the shocks mounted with the lockout knob to the rear and some to the front. CDale site shows them to the front. I can see where the knob to the rear would make water bottle access much easier and less chance of messing w/rebound knob. Hoping this is a dumb question but is there any reason why I can't turn the shock around?

  71. #471
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    Reversing the shock has no downside and more than one possible improvement. If a non-remote shock it is easier to reach the lever, if a remote-actuated shock the cable angle is straight rather than a tight loop.


  72. #472
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    Quote Originally Posted by aminkman View Post
    I've had my HM1 for a couple weeks now. I've noticed some bikes pictured have the shocks mounted with the lockout knob to the rear and some to the front. CDale site shows them to the front. I can see where the knob to the rear would make water bottle access much easier and less chance of messing w/rebound knob. Hoping this is a dumb question but is there any reason why I can't turn the shock around?
    You just need to be cognizant of the lockout cable if you switch the shock. Make sure it isn't rubbing on the frame as it moves when in the rear position.

  73. #473
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    I moved it yesterday and will give it a go today. Much cleaner look and you can actually see the rebound adjuster without standing on your head. I'm sure the front bottle will be much easier to manage. Weird that this isn't the stock position. Unrelated - I do have an odd rubbing sound coming from the hub area. Sounds like brake pad drag but rotor is true. Anybody else hear that?
    EDIT: Definitely turn your shock around! Bottles are much easier to use. I don't have to look down to put them in, very natural now. Slightly less pressure to lock out
    Last edited by aminkman; 1 Week Ago at 11:49 AM.

  74. #474
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    So mine is a RS and there is always an oil ring on the stanchion after a ride which is part of the design...oil lube / bath. Turning it upside might make it so it isnít lubed???

  75. #475
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    So my rear Hollowgram wheel snapped while descending on a rocky section on a marathon, nothing special, just rocks scattered around. On a really big rock sections I stopped and walked. Frame size is L and I am not that heavy, 77 kg. Do you recon this is covered by warranty ? Rim was not hit by the rock directly, it snapped by the effect of the force coming from the tire.

    2019 Scalpel-SI with Lefty Ocho-20190609_115142.jpg

  76. #476
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    Quote Originally Posted by BorisGoreta View Post
    So my rear Hollowgram wheel snapped while descending on a rocky section on a marathon, nothing special, just rocks scattered around. On a really big rock sections I stopped and walked. Frame size is L and I am not that heavy, 77 kg. Do you recon this is covered by warranty ? Rim was not hit by the rock directly, it snapped by the effect of the force coming from the tire.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wow. I seem to think I heard these rims are not all that strong. Wonít know till you ask, take pictures of both sides, I wouldnít remove the tire till you take it to your store.
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  77. #477
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    This looks like failure to me. There should be an indentation impact site if itís from a direct hit. I agree with osteo, do not take the tire off or unseat the bead until you take it to your shop. Make sure you watch the process, you will want to know if there is seam on the inside of the rim in that spot.

  78. #478
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    Mark the tire and rim with a single paint pen line before taking the tire off. It will give you the position that you are looking for.

  79. #479
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    Just a quick question about warranty. If I bought my Scalpel in Germany can I warrant it in a shop that sells Cannondales in Croatia, where I live ? Are they allowed to say I have to take it back to a shop in Germany or they have to take it in ?

  80. #480
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    it should be a worldwide warranty...

  81. #481
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    It of course is world wide warranty. According to rules you should contact first to the place of purchase but you are allowed to take care of it at the closest shop. Bear in mind that since there can be different distributors so work related costs can make it so that they want you to take care of it in Germany.

    In my opinion thatís not warranty and you have just been able to get rock hit on your rim. Iíve seen those before and itís always like that.

  82. #482
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    Thank you for your answers. Today I took a couple of more pictures in the sun. Please let me know if you think this is a warranty issue or some rock hit it on the side. Either way it is fine. If it was a rock then I'll keep my confidence descending with these wheels knowing they truly are hi impact carbon, just not when the impact comes from the side

    P.S. If this can't be warranted can I at least ride it on tarmac until new rim arrives, the tire still holds air, I mean the old rim is toast anyway.



    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2019 Scalpel-SI with Lefty Ocho-20190610_103906.jpg  

    2019 Scalpel-SI with Lefty Ocho-20190610_103916.jpg  


  83. #483
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    definitely do NOT ride the bike like that

  84. #484
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    Quote Originally Posted by BorisGoreta View Post
    P.S. If this can't be warranted can I at least ride it on tarmac until new rim arrives, the tire still holds air, I mean the old rim is toast anyway.
    Erm yeah don't ride that unless you enjoy dental work.

    It's a warranty failure if you argue that it is. It looks like one. Only you know what you did with it.

    As you bought in De but are warrantying elsewhere expect to be treated like sh*t. Ask me how I know.

  85. #485
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    I cleaned the area a little bit and judging by this image there is no forensic evidence that the rim has been hit by a rock, meaning I should be able to warrant this.

    2019 Scalpel-SI with Lefty Ocho-20190611_142357.jpg

  86. #486
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    Quote Originally Posted by BorisGoreta View Post
    I cleaned the area a little bit and judging by this image there is no forensic evidence that the rim has been hit by a rock, meaning I should be able to warrant this.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    I agree. The outer rim area would be marked or at least scratched in some way and the tire sidewall I would suspect would show lines of being compressed as well. Again, donít that that tire off when you take it in.
    Somewhere lost in the Bush!

  87. #487
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    Looks like an impact from a rock to me. Bottomed out tire, force through bead hook on one side because bike was at an angle and then the rim cracked. I've done it before although it's been either less damage and repairable or an exploded rim.

  88. #488
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    I concur, direct impact on the tire with a rock causing it to bottom out...I doubt very much its a warranty replacement ...but hey, worth a try

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