Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.

    Anyone have any idea why this would occur?

    My frame is a medium 2014 chrome N9 with a 27.2 mm seat tube. It's using a Salsa seat clamp that is torqued down as to not cause my dropper post to bind (TransX/PNW Rainier, 80 mm travel). My weight was up at 200 lbs last year.

    There is an identical, mirror image crack on the opposite side of the seat tube slot as well. I really never expected a steel frame to ever crack on me. I like to ride techy trails, but I don't do drops.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-nimble-9-crack.jpg  


  2. #2
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    The obvious culprit is too tight of a collar... but you say it was torqued appropriately. HMMM weird.

  3. #3
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    Bummer! A local welder should be able to get this fixed for you.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CWnSWCO View Post
    The obvious culprit is too tight of a collar... but you say it was torqued appropriately. HMMM weird.
    How does that even happen? The only way it can move far enough to crack is if there is no seat post in there.

    Also weird that it cracked in the back of the tube, rather than the front - but maybe it was started when the slot was made in the frame.

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  5. #5
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    I'd bet that's repairable. An interesting crack - What does it look like inside the tube? Do you have rust or corrosion? Also - how far was your seat post inserted? Not just this one - any that you used?
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  6. #6
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    Inside the seat tube the crack looks like a fine hair line. There is some surface rust further down past the crack though. I've included a left side pic of the crack as well, and a pic of the seat post showing not even a scratch on it. I've always inserted this seat post, and a previous static Thomson seat post with the minimum insertion well below the seat collar.

    I contacted a local welder last night via a web contact page, but I'm still waiting for a response.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-n9-crack-inside.jpg  

    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-n9-dropper.jpg  

    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-n9-crack-left.jpg  


  7. #7
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    I'd argue you needed a longer length seatpost collar given the length of that cut. Probably just a smidge too much 'pinching' that eventually caused the fatigue point. Normally this is something you'd see on a carbon frame. A local welder should be able to fix that pretty easy.

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    Ouch!

    So I got a quote from a local fancy bike repair place close by to me; Hot Tubes in Eastern Massachusetts, http://www.hottubes.com/.

    Here's what the guy emailed back to me:
    "It is repairable. I would need to remove all of the chrome on the top of the seat tube, make a collar to reinforce the entire upper seat tube. I would then need to re-drill and re-slot the seat tube. After that, the upper section would need some kind of paint.

    Figure $250-$300."

    That's too much. I can get a used one for that.

    So the next question is, do I need this fancy guy, or can I just go to any reputable local welder, like someone who handles all sorts of welding projects?

  9. #9
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    that is about right since there is the additional chrome to deal with

    ----

    get a non-bike frame specific patch from someone who doesn't do bike frames all day....the chances of further cracking is magnified simply due to lack of experience in thin walled tubes for bike duty...but it is not rocket science, the materials are known and welding methods are known, so it can be done 'by the book' if the welder has the correct setup/jigs/temperatures
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  10. #10
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    Okay... It's now wall art then.

    Anyone want to purchase a spare pair of Nimble 9 V2 sliders?!


  11. #11
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    What axle size?
    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    Anyone want to purchase a spare pair of Nimble 9 V2 sliders?!

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    Quote Originally Posted by chestont View Post
    What axle size?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    The 142 x 12 mm setup, for the 2013 to 2015 frames (version 2), that includes the Rockshox Maxle, 4 frame bolts and washers, 2 slide-adjust bolts and nuts, and left and right side dropouts.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    Anyone want to purchase a spare pair of Nimble 9 V2 sliders?!

    You're gonna give up that easily? I'll bet you could get if fixed inexpensively. I'd wait for more people to chime in with recommendations.

    The chrome N9 was my dream bike for a while, now I own a black '16, still wouldn't mind owning a chrome one some day.
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  14. #14
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    Well, I don't think $250-300 is worth it for a frame I could replace with a used one for about the same cost. And, as stated by 127.0.0.1 in post #9, if I spend less using someone who normally welds iron fences all day, I risk further frame failure.

  15. #15
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    I'd like to hear what someone like Walt would say about it, maybe you could PM him or post in the frame building forum:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/
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  16. #16
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    Oh man super tempting.

    What about just cutting the cracked portion off completely? Would that be possible? You'd have to add a slot down the backside. It probably sounds a lot simpler than it would be in practice.
    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    The 142 x 12 mm setup, for the 2013 to 2015 frames (version 2), that includes the Rockshox Maxle, 4 frame bolts and washers, 2 slide-adjust bolts and nuts, and left and right side dropouts.
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  17. #17
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    Almost looks like the seatpost was a touch too small and the part of the seat tube above the rounded bottom of the slot was squeezed in by the clamp, if that makes any sense.

    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-cracked.jpg
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  18. #18
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    I blame the chrome plating

    it is not very flexible... so it might have helped initiate the fracture
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  19. #19
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    Sorry for this being a bit off topic as this likely is not a warranty claim through Canfield...but it got me thinking if Canfield would even be able to offer any assistance if someone found themselves in a legit warranty situation (concerned [not too concerned] Balance and Nimble 9 owner).

  20. #20
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    Was wondering this exactly, although looks like it might be a bit too far down to allow a proper width clamp, but photo could be misleading. Also, reaching out to the Brothers would not be a bad idea from all I've read about them in terms of CS, they might be able to offer you some help or even a reasonable solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by chestont View Post
    What about just cutting the cracked portion off completely? Would that be possible? You'd have to add a slot down the backside. It probably sounds a lot simpler than it would be in practice.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Also weird that it cracked in the back of the tube, rather than the front - but maybe it was started when the slot was made in the frame.
    -F
    That is a pretty unusual place for it to happen, at the back of the seattube. I've had the opposite happen, at the front. Likely due to an offset seatpost, saddle all the way back, just too much stress on the front of the seattube. It was also at the top of the TT weld which may have contributed?

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    So I got a quote from a local fancy bike repair place close by to me; Hot Tubes in Eastern Massachusetts, http://www.hottubes.com/.

    Figure $250-$300."
    Yeah, whether it's paint or chrome it needs to be removed, the entire area needs to be reinforced, or even sleeved. Price is similar to what I was quoted by a local frame builder to fix a different frame that cracked at the seat stays. He recommended an external sleeve for my situation.

    Quote Originally Posted by chestont View Post
    What about just cutting the cracked portion off completely? Would that be possible? You'd have to add a slot down the backside. It probably sounds a lot simpler than it would be in practice.
    This was my thought as well. It is less than ideal but would be the path of least resistance.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    Well, I don't think $250-300 is worth it for a frame I could replace with a used one for about the same cost. And, as stated by 127.0.0.1 in post #9, if I spend less using someone who normally welds iron fences all day, I risk further frame failure.
    I don't think that's a $250 job. Sand off the chrome, clean it all, leave a seat post just in there as a heat sink, weld the crack, sleeve it, paint it.

    I once found a guy near me to replace a rear dropout for $100.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Almost looks like the seatpost was a touch too small and the part of the seat tube above the rounded bottom of the slot was squeezed in by the clamp, if that makes any sense.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yeah, that's the weird part. Seems like the only way it would happen. Or I was thinking it could happen if you ran it backwards into your garage door frame on your roof rack. I'm wondering if the hole is pierced, or drilled. Seems like it would have to be drilled, but a pierced hole might start a crack.

    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    I blame the chrome plating

    it is not very flexible... so it might have helped initiate the fracture
    ^^^This is something that should not happen. I even received a notice from the Bros. that the chrome frame could develop light rust near the bottom bracket due to the steel being more flexible than the chrome plating, resulting in microcracks in the plating. I typically wax the thing up pretty good at the beginning of the season and so far it still looks good. Mine is also a '13/'14.

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  23. #23
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    Per the website that frame uses a 30.9 seatpost: http://canfieldbrothers.com/archive-frames

    Maybe using a 27.2 seat post put too much stress on it. Only 2013 V2 used 27.2

  24. #24
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    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-clamp.jpg
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by GatorXman View Post
    Per the website that frame uses a 30.9 seatpost: http://canfieldbrothers.com/archive-frames

    Maybe using a 27.2 seat post put too much stress on it. Only 2013 V2 used 27.2
    OH, if your using a 27.2 in a 30.9 frame that's what cracked it.
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  26. #26
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    That archive has an entry error. It was the 2014 that had the 27.2 mm seat tube. The 2013, and then brought back for 2015, had the 30.9 seat tube.

    Also, look at their web page dated February 7, 2013.

    "Seat post Ė 30.9mm"

    http://canfieldbrothers.com/the-new-...thers-nimble-9

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Also, reaching out to the Brothers would not be a bad idea from all I've read about them in terms of CS, they might be able to offer you some help or even a reasonable solution.
    I reached out by going to their web store and purchasing a brand new Toir frame for $999.

    What would these guys be able to do for me anyway? It's a nearly 5 year old frame, and they have no more Nimble 9 frames, or even Yellis or EPOs.

    Sean Gollub from CB has probably seen this post too, since I've noticed he responds in this forum from time to time.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    I reached out by going to their web store and purchasing a brand new Toir frame for $999.

    What would these guys be able to do for me anyway? It's a nearly 5 year old frame, and they have no more Nimble 9 frames, or even Yellis or EPOs.

    Sean Gollub from CB has probably seen this post too, since I've noticed he responds in this forum from time to time.
    Send me your 27.2 dropper.

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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    OH, if your using a 27.2 in a 30.9 frame that's what cracked it.
    oh for sure if that is what happened
    hands down no question if seatpost is too small, case closed.
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  30. #30
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    If that was what happened.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    If that was what happened.
    are you the only owner of this frame or could someone have run it with wrong post ?
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  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    are you the only owner of this frame or could someone have run it with wrong post ?
    I bought it 4 years ago in February of 2015, used. So the previous owner put an undersized post in there 4 years ago, and it finally broke after all that time?

    It has a 27.2 mm seat tube, not a 30.9 mm. You may need to go reread the thread again, or perhaps I need to bust out the calipers for the doubters?

  33. #33
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    you couldn't even clamp a 30.9mm tube enough to stabilize a 27.2mm post. c'mon now guys...


  34. #34
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    Sorry to hear about this. If it were my bike, I think I'd be tempted to try to salvage it - but do some prep work myself prior to giving it to a good framebuilder. Basically just like the builder/repair guy quoted you, but being surgical about the egde of the chrome removal. Perhaps a sloped line so that a sleeve, also cut and shaped by you from appropriate-diameter tubing, could be longer on the back side. The DIFFERENCE is that I'd ask him to braze rather than weld the sleeve in place, after the crack was welded and ground smooth. Paint the sleeve, and it could look like it came that way. Worse case scenario, there'd be some heat discoloration near the top of the chrome, it lasts another few years, and you gave up a saturday of riding to do the prep work. Best case, it lasts indefinitely.

    On the other hand, if we knew the Brothers were going to re-stock, maybe new is easier.
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  35. #35
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    i'd chop off the broken piece, cut a new slot and put an integrated collar on it..


  36. #36
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    I think I may try to salvage this frame... one day. And I think what I would do is cut it clean and level at the crack, carefully create a new slot, and use a shallower height seat collar (there's enough room). Perhaps I'll rebuild it as a fully rigid eventually, who knows.

    In the meantime, I've already stripped all the parts off of it, and I'm moving them to the new Toir/Riot frame I just ordered (a new headset lower assembly and a different seat post and seat collar is required, all else will transfer).

    I would have needed to strip down the N9 frame anyway, in order to be able to manipulate it properly, so that's now done.

  37. #37
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    ^^Good choice! I hear the Toir is a riot!

    Who needs a seatpost anyway?

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  38. #38
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    *The sound of "Taps" playing gently in the distance*
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-n9-stripped.jpg  


  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    *The sound of "Taps" playing gently in the distance*
    LOL, are you going to bury it in your back yard?
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  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker. View Post
    i'd chop off the broken piece, cut a new slot and put an integrated collar on it..
    I'm with this line of thinking. A bit of a rub given how close the crack is to the next junction/weld but I think there are some cost effective ways to salvage this frame. You don't need much to reinforce that crack so if appearance isn't important - find a local welder.. Heck -> you could have someone fix mount a steel post in there and run your saddles low - session ready.
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  41. #41
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    Grind it, have someone tig it for $25, sand it, paint it with chrome paint, ride it.

    Or just cut that piece off, slot it and drill it. Iíve done this on muni frames and hardtail, works fine.
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    Quote Originally Posted by twd953 View Post
    LOL, are you going to bury it in your back yard?
    Yeah, right next to my leg lamp, that my wife inexplicably didn't like.

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    I gave it one more shot and found a local frame builder who offered to fix it for a reasonable price.

    Originally, the plan was to weld a sleeve on it and reslot it, but then he felt that the crack might continue to grow, even underneath the welded-on sleeve. Also, the chrome finish would need to be removed beyond the weld work, and then painted and somehow blended with the existing chrome.

    So he suggested the chop and reslot approach, and then use one of their steel seat collars that they normally braze-on their bikes, but use it unwelded which would save the chrome finish.

    $75, including painted collar and bolt.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-img_4227b.jpg  

    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-img_4230.jpg  

    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-img_4228.jpg  


  44. #44
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    How do you like the Toir? The price of them now is hard to resist. I'm assuming you were able to swap everything over from your N9 except the seat post?

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    How do you like the Toir? The price of them now is hard to resist. I'm assuming you were able to swap everything over from your N9 except the seat post?
    I picked up a Toir/Riot late last spring and can confirm everything swaps over from a N9.

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fancy View Post
    I picked up a Toir/Riot late last spring and can confirm everything swaps over from a N9.
    How does it compare? My N9 is fast and nimble and I love it. Feels like a rocket.

  47. #47
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    ..My N9 is <snip> nimble...
    then you will think the tior is a riot....


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    I had to buy a new dropper post, because my model year N9 had a 27.2mm seat tube bore, and I also needed to buy a new headset lower assembly (the Riot requires a 49mm, the N9 requires a 44mm). Everything else transfers over.

    The crack in my N9 resulted in changing up my two bike stable; the Riot is now my main ride, the N9 (former main ride) is currently being repurposed to full rigid (and I sold my 10-year-old 26er full suspension).

    The Riot keeps the shortened chainstays that I love of the N9 and very similar slack head tube, but the most surprising change to me was the very steep seat tube angle (and of course rear wheel travel). I really didn't know if I would like it, but I love the steep seat tube angle. Also, the reach is greater, but I assume that is what creates the steep seat tube angle.

  49. #49
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    I had to buy a new dropper post, because my model year N9 had a 27.2mm seat tube bore, and I also needed to buy a new headset lower assembly (the Riot requires a 49mm, the N9 requires a 44mm). Everything else transfers over.

    The crack in my N9 resulted in changing up my two bike stable; the Riot is now my main ride, the N9 (former main ride) is currently being repurposed to full rigid (and I sold my 10-year-old 26er full suspension).

    The Riot keeps the shortened chainstays that I love of the N9 and very similar slack head tube, but the most surprising change to me was the very steep seat tube angle (and of course rear wheel travel). I really didn't know if I would like it, but I love the steep seat tube angle. Also, the reach is greater, but I assume that is what creates the steep seat tube angle.
    I have the same 2014 Chrome N9 and remembered the seat tube after I posted. I love my N9 but with the Toir at more than half off it is very tempting.

    What is it about the steep seat tube angle you love?

  50. #50
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    I like how my position feels; how my butt, hands and feet positions feel relative to one another. I wondered if it would feel too forward but it doesn't. I think it's really about where the bottom bracket is actually. It puts my feet further back, which puts my butt more forward in relation.

    The biggest surprise for me though was that I don't find the need to slightly lower my seat height with the dropper post on steeper climbs. For some reason I always felt the need to trim off about an inch of height on steep climbs, or even in chunkier flat sections, on my N9, and on my 26er (a Titus Motolite), but I just leave it the same height on the Riot; that's just something I used to do on the other two bikes, but not on the Riot and I assume it's due to the steep seat tube/further-back bottom bracket.

    Hmf.

  51. #51
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    Do you know what the weight difference between your N9 and the Toir frame are? Do you feel the Toir is as quick and responsive as the N9?

    I live in flat Florida where we have sand, roots and mostly hard pack trails so the Toir would be overkill for me but the vast majority of riders here ride FS bikes. I think the N9 is the perfect bike for trails like these. But that Toir is at a great price right now... I don't need it but it is hard to pass up.

    How do you all order frames from Canfield? The website is not secure so I am afraid to place a order through the site.

    Sorry to hijack your thread but your are the perfect person to ask as we have the same N9 and you also have the Toir

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    The difference in the frame weight of the N9 and the Riot (both medium) is it's about 1 pound heavier for the Riot with a DVO Topaz air shock. The N9 is a heavy hardtail frame for sure, but the Riot ain't no light weight either.

    If I were riding where you describe, I would "short shock" it. That is, run a 50mm stroke (by 200mm length), as opposed to a 57mm stroke (by 200mm length). If you do, then just buy the frame only for $750 and get the shorter stroke shock elsewhere ("*Our suspension frames are also available without a shock at a discount of $250."). And this is an option that's been discussed in the Canfield forums, and in fact been endorsed by the bros. themselves. It's supposed to result in reducing the travel to about 125mm, but make it a heck of a poppy riding frame on flatter terrain, with still plenty of travel. I'd keep the fork at 140mm travel though (as recommended too), but as long as the eye-to-eye shock length is 200mm then the geometry remains exactly the same.

    I consider the Riot to be a Nimble 9 with rear suspension. That's because it has the short chainstays! So yes, it's as quick and response as my N9.

    The Canfield web store has been secure for me. I've ordered small parts from there years ago, in addition to the Riot frame. And it accepts Paypal, so you have the third party protection.

  53. #53
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    Thanks A. Rider.. I know nothing about rear suspension so that is helpful. So if I get something like this and choose 50mm & 200mm I am good?
    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/...BoCF_QQAvD_BwE

    Any recommendations for a plush shock?

    You are really selling me on this frame

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    Ok, that's funny because I've read good things about that shock in particular. I would honestly strongly consider that shock, in 50mm by 200mm. I'd put it on a really short list.

    If others would confirm that for you then all you need is the correct mounting hardware dimensions. The forward hardware requires a 22.2mm wide pivot axle, and the rear hardware requires 35.2mm hardware. I physically measured this at the frame mounts with digital calipers. You just now need to find the correct mounting hardware kits to fit a Manitou McLeod, with those pivot axle lengths. And the 2 shock mount bolts will come with the frame, as mine did.

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    Your frame will be about a quarter pound lighter than mine too, with the McLeod vs. a Topaz.

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    Lot's of good info A. Rider. Thanks!

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    Actually, what I'd get is the frame AND the DVO Topaz shock from the Canfield website, for $999, but specifically request that they supply a 50mm stroke Topaz, not a 57mm stroke. If you wanted to short shock it of course.

    That shock would cost you $500 alone, but you're getting it for $249 with the frame and shock deal at $999.

    You asked what's a good "plush" shock, well the Topaz is plush for an air shock, with its yuge air can and piggy back unit.

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    Oh, and they will supply all of the hardware too. Do that, not the McLeod!

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    I love my Gen 2 Nimble 9 and Riot combo! I have them set up in conjunction to cover a wide variety of trails. Currently, my N9 is singlespeed with 2.4/2.2 tires and my Riot uses either a 200x50mm air shock or 200x57mm coil shock depending on what I'm riding with burly 2.4 tires. Between those 2.5 bikes, I'm usually pretty well covered. I've even swapped the drivetrain over to the N9 or the N9 wheel/tires to the Riot for different races or rides.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    Oh, and they will supply all of the hardware too. Do that, not the McLeod!
    Yeah, if I can get the Topaz with a 50mm stroke at that price that would be awesome.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    Yeah, if I can get the Topaz with a 50mm stroke at that price that would be awesome.
    They don't stock the Topaz at the CBF factory, it gets shipped separately straight from DVO so it shouldn't be a problem.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chestont View Post
    Between those 2.5 bikes, I'm usually pretty well covered. I've even swapped the drivetrain over to the N9 or the N9 wheel/tires to the Riot for different races or rides.
    Yeah, it's going to be like having two-and-a-half bikes when I'm done rebuilding my N9 (this weekend). I got really lucky too in that the hubs between my 29er wheels (with Canfield hubs) and my b+ wheels (with DT Swiss 350 hubs) have exactly identically spaced rotor mounts and free hub spacing, so I don't even need to re-adjust brake calipers or derailleur limit screws... like at all, between the N9 and my new Riot!

    I've accumulated a bunch of tires now too, with all this plus tire, 2.6 tire, and more aggro tread tires, etc. that's exploded on the scene in the past few years too, that it's gonna keep my riding experience nice and fresh between these 2 bikes.

    And going rigid on the N9 is going to be a new experience for me. I don't even know if I'll like it, but a new suspension fork isn't in the budget right now, so I'll have plenty of time to find out.

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    And going rigid on the N9 is going to be a new experience for me. I don't even know if I'll like it, but a new suspension fork isn't in the budget right now, so I'll have plenty of time to find out.
    I'll be curious to hear what you think. I might want to try that myself.

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    I think once my N9 fork reaches the point of not being serviceable I'll swap over the Surly fork I have and put a 29+ tire on the front for fun. Rigid bike reminds me of being a kid and first learning to ride. Of course my back and shoulders may not appreciate it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by chestont View Post
    I think once my N9 fork reaches the point of not being serviceable I'll swap over the Surly fork I have and put a 29+ tire on the front for fun. Rigid bike reminds me of being a kid and first learning to ride. Of course my back and shoulders may not appreciate it.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    I had a friend who ran his full rigid single speed with a dropper. It was a woot and a half to ride, like a giant BMX bike on single track.

    I built up a 27.5 equivalent this winter, just not an N9, but man it was fun.

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    Couple Canfields

    Didn't see this coming when I discovered the crack in early January.

    The rigid fork feels interesting with that 3.0 Nobby Nic balloon-of-a-front tire on it, having pedaled it on pavement only thus far. Taking it on some smooth dirt trails that are right out my door this afternoon to start. There's also some sections of tech-y trails just out the door too. It's these smooth dirt trails that I specifically had this N9 rigid rebuild in mind for, and there's miles of them too.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-img_4247.jpg  


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    Yeah, this is going to work out nicely.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-img_4251-copy.jpg  


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    Looks good! I kinda did the opposite since my fork won't fit a 29+. I put a 27.5+ wheel and tire combo (2.8 Rocket Ron) on the rear of mine and really liked it.

    What fork is that?

    How do you describe your 29+ on the front in how it rides now compared to before?

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    It's set up 27.5+ currently, and in the pics, but I haven't tried it with my 29er wheels yet, and my i30 29er rims are too narrow to try a 29+ tire though.

    The fork is an Exotic carbon fork from CarbonCycles. It's got an axle-to-crown of 490mm, which is the longest I could find, and a 100mm x 15mm axle. I'm convinced it's the exact same fork as the Carver bikes Trail 490, but for less money. I got it from Amazon for $230 shipped, whereas the Carver version is $300

    The fork is frighteningly light, honestly. It's made in Indonesia (I think) and I found a couple of "pro" reviews for it, and I wanted to avoid the mainland China carbon. I could not find a steel fork longer than 483mm, axle-to-crown, so I went with the Exotic.

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    I thought you had a 29+ on it. Is that a 27.5+ 3.0 tire up front?

    I'm running 27.5+ in the rear and 29 up front and liking it right now if I didn't make that clear. What should the axle to crown be on these bikes?

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    Yes, it's a 27.5+ Nobby Nic 3.0 tire up front, and a 27.5+ Maxxis Recon+ 2.8 tire in the back, on i40 rims.

    A 490mm axle-to-crown rigid 29er fork is a suspension-corrected length for typically 100 to 120mm travel 29er forks. Since the gen 2 Nimble 9s were described as suitable for 100 to 140mm travel forks, then a 490mm a-c rigid fork is appropriate. It feels spot on actually.

  72. #72
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    I have a 120mm Reba on mine and with the 27.5+ on the rear and 29 on the front it makes the front feel a little more plush IMO... must be the change in geo... the front feels lighter.

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    I've done that combo on my N9 before too (2.35 x 29 front, 2.8 x 27.5 back) and really did like it that way as well.

    You now got me thinking about trying a 29+ up front now! I would like to try that with a 2.6 x 29 in back. I spent all my disposable income for the time being now on these two bikes as they are, so that will have to wait though.

    Hmm...
    Last edited by A. Rider; 04-01-2019 at 03:43 PM.

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    Did you end up "short" shocking the Riot?

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    Quote Originally Posted by GatorXman View Post
    Did you end up "short" shocking the Riot?
    Jem7sk was looking at short shocking options for a Riot purchase.

    As for me, I'm not considering that at all. I'm going to continue riding my Riot in all of its intended 140mm of front and rear travel glory.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    I've done that combo on my N9 before too (2.35 x 29 front, 2.8 x 27.5 back) and really did like it that way as well.

    You now got me thinking about trying a 29+ up front now! I would like to try that with a 2.6 x 29 in back. I spent all my disposable income for the time being now on these two bikes as they are, so that will have to wait though.

    Hmm...
    If you can get a 29+ on with that fork let me know. Right now I have a 2.4x29 Racing Ralph front and 2.8x27.5+Rocket Ron (I think) on the rear. I am really enjoying it.

    My wife fractured her wrist this weekend so I might pull the 29+ fork and wheel off hers and try on my N9 if that fork will fit.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by GatorXman View Post
    Did you end up "short" shocking the Riot?
    I haven't.. I've been enjoying the N9 so much that I might not be able to justify it. Living in Florida it seems a waste to have a FS where I ride. But if they had the bare metal frames at the price they do now I would have already jumped on it. It is such a great deal though, I am still thinking about it.

  78. #78
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    If you can get a 29+ on with that fork let me know. Right now I have a 2.4x29 Racing Ralph front and 2.8x27.5+Rocket Ron (I think) on the rear. I am really enjoying it.

    My wife fractured her wrist this weekend so I might pull the 29+ fork and wheel off hers and try on my N9 if that fork will fit.
    I would try it, just not with my i30 29er wheels, but may build up a new front wheel with a wide rim in the not-so-distant future to give it a go. A 3.0 x 29" should fit fine in my fork.

    If you try this let's hear about it!

  79. #79
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    I haven't.. I've been enjoying the N9 so much that I might not be able to justify it. Living in Florida it seems a waste to have a FS where I ride. But if they had the bare metal frames at the price they do now I would have already jumped on it. It is such a great deal though, I am still thinking about it.
    I'm pretty much in the exact same boat. I switch between SS and geared on my N9 and no FS bike that I've demoed has made me pull the trigger. However, its just such a great deal that its hard to pass up. I too live in Central Florida (near Alafia) and ride in Georgia a few times a year cuz my parents have a place up there.

    The Revel Rascal frame and fork combo is also a decent deal and the Forbidden Druid has caught my eye. I've also been trying to give the Bro(s)? a chance to put out their upcoming bike.

    IDK man, I've been running gears for a while, but miss the SS setup and have a rigid carbon fork sitting in garage waiting to be mounted. I have a 100/142 geared wheelset, so SC Chameleon or Stanton Swich9er are also on the table because I have pretty much all the parts I need minus crankset and headset.

    Anyways, I still love every ride I go on my N9...puts a grin on my face 100% of the time. I'll never get rid of that bike.

  80. #80
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    I took the wife's Stache 7 out yesterday and it is the perfect bike for Florida type riding except it is a little too heavy and inefficient to pedal and wears me out quicker. It got me thinking about getting the EPO if it were boost. But it is not. I might have to upgrade the Stache and see how well it performs when it weights less and has better components.

    I definately like my N9 better. The cockpit feels better (the Stache is cramped), it is lighter, faster, more nimble and just more fun to ride.

    But the Stache floats over sand.. it is really amazing.. the soft sugar sand feels like hard packed dirt. It never loses traction, even in the deep sand. And it soaks up the small bumps where I can stay in the saddle. I'm also amazed how easy it is to pull the front wheel up. I was practicing my wheelies and that front end comes up very easy.

    I hope the fork on the Stache will fit my N9 and I can see how well the 29+ works on the front of the N9.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    ...I'm also amazed how easy it is to pull the front wheel up. I was practicing my wheelies and that front end comes up very easy.

    I hope the fork on the Stache will fit my N9 and I can see how well the 29+ works on the front of the N9.
    Yeah, I've been popping and practicing wheelies like crazy now, with the rigid fork on the N9. It's so light to lift the front end and it just begs to be ridden on it's rear wheel for the fun of it.

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    Reinforced seat collar clamping area on the upcoming Nimble 9?

    I just noticed that sweet oil slick finish Nimble 9, that's been recently posted on the Canfield Brothers Facebook page, has a tall, thick section of additional steel at the top of the seat tube. I wonder if that's to address other reported cracks that have happened there.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-oil-slick-n9-seat-tube.jpg  


  83. #83
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    Yeah, I've been popping and practicing wheelies like crazy now, with the rigid fork on the N9. It's so light to lift the front end and it just begs to be ridden on it's rear wheel for the fun of it.
    I put the 29" wheel back on the rear and initially I didn't like it but five minutes into the ride I got used to it and could definitely tell I was faster on it. My lungs and my strength held up longer too. The only negative was I felt more in a XC position compared to the 27.5+ on the rear. I probably need a taller fork to get that position with the 29" on the rear.

    Yep, I love my N9 and think I will stick with it for now and not upgrade to a Riot. It would be too much bike for the riding I do in Florida. Now I think I will do some upgrades to lighten it and make it the best it could possibly be for me.

    Any idea what the widest wheels/tires (non-boost) that will fit on the rear? I have a 2.4 Racing Ralph on a Stan's Crest on the rear and it looks like it could take a bigger tire. I don't think the Crest could handle a bigger tire though.

  84. #84
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    I put the 29" wheel back on the rear and initially I didn't like it but five minutes into the ride I got used to it and could definitely tell I was faster on it. My lungs and my strength held up longer too. The only negative was I felt more in a XC position compared to the 27.5+ on the rear. I probably need a taller fork to get that position with the 29" on the rear.

    Yep, I love my N9 and think I will stick with it for now and not upgrade to a Riot. It would be too much bike for the riding I do in Florida. Now I think I will do some upgrades to lighten it and make it the best it could possibly be for me.

    Any idea what the widest wheels/tires (non-boost) that will fit on the rear? I have a 2.4 Racing Ralph on a Stan's Crest on the rear and it looks like it could take a bigger tire. I don't think the Crest could handle a bigger tire though.
    2.4 XR3 on 30.5mm ID rims rubs (chainstays) if pushed forward. You gotta push sliders back like 1/2". The XR3's are one of the only true size tires though

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    I fit a 2.6 Bontrager SE2 on an i30 rim on the back of My N9, with the sliders slammed all the way forward. There was no rub, but it was tight and I was planning to slide the wheel back a bit. The reason I havenít yet is it was just one week later that I discovered the seat tube crack. Itís going back on really soon though.

    The 2.6 tire took out a lot of the sting that I felt with a 2.35 tire.

  86. #86
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    I fit a 2.6 Bontrager SE2 on an i30 rim on the back of My N9, with the sliders slammed all the way forward. There was no rub, but it was tight and I was planning to slide the wheel back a bit. The reason I havenít yet is it was just one week later that I discovered the seat tube crack. Itís going back on really soon though.

    The 2.6 tire took out a lot of the sting that I felt with a 2.35 tire.
    For me it didn't rub in the garage, the problem was it would rub the stays anytime I leaned into a corner. I live in Florida, so its not like I'm railing corners or anything

  87. #87
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    I would try it, just not with my i30 29er wheels, but may build up a new front wheel with a wide rim in the not-so-distant future to give it a go. A 3.0 x 29" should fit fine in my fork.

    If you try this let's hear about it!
    I finally put the 29+ wheel and fork from my Wife's Stache on my N9. It is pretty awesome! Fit perfectly and was a quick and easy swap.

  88. #88
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jem7sk View Post
    I finally put the 29+ wheel and fork from my Wife's Stache on my N9. It is pretty awesome! Fit perfectly and was a quick and easy swap.
    I guess I should include some pics
    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-large.img_0127.jpeg.b258b74b4b974131400e8b11ca2cf57d.jpg
    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-large.img_0128.jpeg.cd07561c1fc0aa8d73b7d98a6a75dfc9.jpg
    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-large.img_0129.jpeg.8be71df8fb6b32f479ffc8c6efbddcfc.jpg

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    I still have the 2.6s on my N9 and think they feel great. I may try a 2.8 up front later this year.

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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    I still have the 2.6s on my N9 and think they feel great. I may try a 2.8 up front later this year.
    29 or 27.5?

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    29 for my 2.6s, but I also have 27.5+ 3.0f and 2.8r for this bike.

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    I went back to my 2.4 on my lighter non-boosted wheel. I feel faster with the original setup. The 29+ was grippy-er but felt slugish with acceleration. I could be lazier with the 29+ and not get out of the saddle for some corners because my front tire wouldn't wash out as easily.

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