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  1. #1
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    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.

    Anyone have any idea why this would occur?

    My frame is a medium 2014 chrome N9 with a 27.2 mm seat tube. It's using a Salsa seat clamp that is torqued down as to not cause my dropper post to bind (TransX/PNW Rainier, 80 mm travel). My weight was up at 200 lbs last year.

    There is an identical, mirror image crack on the opposite side of the seat tube slot as well. I really never expected a steel frame to ever crack on me. I like to ride techy trails, but I don't do drops.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-nimble-9-crack.jpg  


  2. #2
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    The obvious culprit is too tight of a collar... but you say it was torqued appropriately. HMMM weird.

  3. #3
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    Bummer! A local welder should be able to get this fixed for you.
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  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by CWnSWCO View Post
    The obvious culprit is too tight of a collar... but you say it was torqued appropriately. HMMM weird.
    How does that even happen? The only way it can move far enough to crack is if there is no seat post in there.

    Also weird that it cracked in the back of the tube, rather than the front - but maybe it was started when the slot was made in the frame.

    Ask the Bros.

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  5. #5
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    I'd bet that's repairable. An interesting crack - What does it look like inside the tube? Do you have rust or corrosion? Also - how far was your seat post inserted? Not just this one - any that you used?

  6. #6
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    Inside the seat tube the crack looks like a fine hair line. There is some surface rust further down past the crack though. I've included a left side pic of the crack as well, and a pic of the seat post showing not even a scratch on it. I've always inserted this seat post, and a previous static Thomson seat post with the minimum insertion well below the seat collar.

    I contacted a local welder last night via a web contact page, but I'm still waiting for a response.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-n9-crack-inside.jpg  

    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-n9-dropper.jpg  

    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-n9-crack-left.jpg  


  7. #7
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    I'd argue you needed a longer length seatpost collar given the length of that cut. Probably just a smidge too much 'pinching' that eventually caused the fatigue point. Normally this is something you'd see on a carbon frame. A local welder should be able to fix that pretty easy.

  8. #8
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    Ouch!

    So I got a quote from a local fancy bike repair place close by to me; Hot Tubes in Eastern Massachusetts, http://www.hottubes.com/.

    Here's what the guy emailed back to me:
    "It is repairable. I would need to remove all of the chrome on the top of the seat tube, make a collar to reinforce the entire upper seat tube. I would then need to re-drill and re-slot the seat tube. After that, the upper section would need some kind of paint.

    Figure $250-$300."

    That's too much. I can get a used one for that.

    So the next question is, do I need this fancy guy, or can I just go to any reputable local welder, like someone who handles all sorts of welding projects?

  9. #9
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    that is about right since there is the additional chrome to deal with

    ----

    get a non-bike frame specific patch from someone who doesn't do bike frames all day....the chances of further cracking is magnified simply due to lack of experience in thin walled tubes for bike duty...but it is not rocket science, the materials are known and welding methods are known, so it can be done 'by the book' if the welder has the correct setup/jigs/temperatures
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  10. #10
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    Okay... It's now wall art then.

    Anyone want to purchase a spare pair of Nimble 9 V2 sliders?!


  11. #11
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    What axle size?
    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    Anyone want to purchase a spare pair of Nimble 9 V2 sliders?!

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by chestont View Post
    What axle size?

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk
    The 142 x 12 mm setup, for the 2013 to 2015 frames (version 2), that includes the Rockshox Maxle, 4 frame bolts and washers, 2 slide-adjust bolts and nuts, and left and right side dropouts.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    Anyone want to purchase a spare pair of Nimble 9 V2 sliders?!

    You're gonna give up that easily? I'll bet you could get if fixed inexpensively. I'd wait for more people to chime in with recommendations.

    The chrome N9 was my dream bike for a while, now I own a black '16, still wouldn't mind owning a chrome one some day.
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  14. #14
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    Well, I don't think $250-300 is worth it for a frame I could replace with a used one for about the same cost. And, as stated by 127.0.0.1 in post #9, if I spend less using someone who normally welds iron fences all day, I risk further frame failure.

  15. #15
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    I'd like to hear what someone like Walt would say about it, maybe you could PM him or post in the frame building forum:

    https://forums.mtbr.com/frame-building/
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  16. #16
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    Oh man super tempting.

    What about just cutting the cracked portion off completely? Would that be possible? You'd have to add a slot down the backside. It probably sounds a lot simpler than it would be in practice.
    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    The 142 x 12 mm setup, for the 2013 to 2015 frames (version 2), that includes the Rockshox Maxle, 4 frame bolts and washers, 2 slide-adjust bolts and nuts, and left and right side dropouts.
    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  17. #17
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    Almost looks like the seatpost was a touch too small and the part of the seat tube above the rounded bottom of the slot was squeezed in by the clamp, if that makes any sense.

    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-cracked.jpg
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  18. #18
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    I blame the chrome plating

    it is not very flexible... so it might have helped initiate the fracture
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  19. #19
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    Sorry for this being a bit off topic as this likely is not a warranty claim through Canfield...but it got me thinking if Canfield would even be able to offer any assistance if someone found themselves in a legit warranty situation (concerned [not too concerned] Balance and Nimble 9 owner).

  20. #20
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    Was wondering this exactly, although looks like it might be a bit too far down to allow a proper width clamp, but photo could be misleading. Also, reaching out to the Brothers would not be a bad idea from all I've read about them in terms of CS, they might be able to offer you some help or even a reasonable solution.

    Quote Originally Posted by chestont View Post
    What about just cutting the cracked portion off completely? Would that be possible? You'd have to add a slot down the backside. It probably sounds a lot simpler than it would be in practice.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fleas View Post
    Also weird that it cracked in the back of the tube, rather than the front - but maybe it was started when the slot was made in the frame.
    -F
    That is a pretty unusual place for it to happen, at the back of the seattube. I've had the opposite happen, at the front. Likely due to an offset seatpost, saddle all the way back, just too much stress on the front of the seattube. It was also at the top of the TT weld which may have contributed?

    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    So I got a quote from a local fancy bike repair place close by to me; Hot Tubes in Eastern Massachusetts, http://www.hottubes.com/.

    Figure $250-$300."
    Yeah, whether it's paint or chrome it needs to be removed, the entire area needs to be reinforced, or even sleeved. Price is similar to what I was quoted by a local frame builder to fix a different frame that cracked at the seat stays. He recommended an external sleeve for my situation.

    Quote Originally Posted by chestont View Post
    What about just cutting the cracked portion off completely? Would that be possible? You'd have to add a slot down the backside. It probably sounds a lot simpler than it would be in practice.
    This was my thought as well. It is less than ideal but would be the path of least resistance.
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  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    Well, I don't think $250-300 is worth it for a frame I could replace with a used one for about the same cost. And, as stated by 127.0.0.1 in post #9, if I spend less using someone who normally welds iron fences all day, I risk further frame failure.
    I don't think that's a $250 job. Sand off the chrome, clean it all, leave a seat post just in there as a heat sink, weld the crack, sleeve it, paint it.

    I once found a guy near me to replace a rear dropout for $100.

    Quote Originally Posted by Cornfield View Post
    Almost looks like the seatpost was a touch too small and the part of the seat tube above the rounded bottom of the slot was squeezed in by the clamp, if that makes any sense.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Yeah, that's the weird part. Seems like the only way it would happen. Or I was thinking it could happen if you ran it backwards into your garage door frame on your roof rack. I'm wondering if the hole is pierced, or drilled. Seems like it would have to be drilled, but a pierced hole might start a crack.

    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    I blame the chrome plating

    it is not very flexible... so it might have helped initiate the fracture
    ^^^This is something that should not happen. I even received a notice from the Bros. that the chrome frame could develop light rust near the bottom bracket due to the steel being more flexible than the chrome plating, resulting in microcracks in the plating. I typically wax the thing up pretty good at the beginning of the season and so far it still looks good. Mine is also a '13/'14.

    -F
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  23. #23
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    Per the website that frame uses a 30.9 seatpost: http://canfieldbrothers.com/archive-frames

    Maybe using a 27.2 seat post put too much stress on it. Only 2013 V2 used 27.2

  24. #24
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    Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-clamp.jpg
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  25. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by GatorXman View Post
    Per the website that frame uses a 30.9 seatpost: http://canfieldbrothers.com/archive-frames

    Maybe using a 27.2 seat post put too much stress on it. Only 2013 V2 used 27.2
    OH, if your using a 27.2 in a 30.9 frame that's what cracked it.
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  26. #26
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    That archive has an entry error. It was the 2014 that had the 27.2 mm seat tube. The 2013, and then brought back for 2015, had the 30.9 seat tube.

    Also, look at their web page dated February 7, 2013.

    "Seat post Ė 30.9mm"

    http://canfieldbrothers.com/the-new-...thers-nimble-9

  27. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by LyNx View Post
    Also, reaching out to the Brothers would not be a bad idea from all I've read about them in terms of CS, they might be able to offer you some help or even a reasonable solution.
    I reached out by going to their web store and purchasing a brand new Toir frame for $999.

    What would these guys be able to do for me anyway? It's a nearly 5 year old frame, and they have no more Nimble 9 frames, or even Yellis or EPOs.

    Sean Gollub from CB has probably seen this post too, since I've noticed he responds in this forum from time to time.

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    I reached out by going to their web store and purchasing a brand new Toir frame for $999.

    What would these guys be able to do for me anyway? It's a nearly 5 year old frame, and they have no more Nimble 9 frames, or even Yellis or EPOs.

    Sean Gollub from CB has probably seen this post too, since I've noticed he responds in this forum from time to time.
    Send me your 27.2 dropper.

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  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by *OneSpeed* View Post
    OH, if your using a 27.2 in a 30.9 frame that's what cracked it.
    oh for sure if that is what happened
    hands down no question if seatpost is too small, case closed.
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  30. #30
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    If that was what happened.

  31. #31
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    If that was what happened.
    are you the only owner of this frame or could someone have run it with wrong post ?
    "Put your seatbelt back on or get out and sit in the middle of that circle of death." - Johnny Scoot

  32. #32
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    Quote Originally Posted by 127.0.0.1 View Post
    are you the only owner of this frame or could someone have run it with wrong post ?
    I bought it 4 years ago in February of 2015, used. So the previous owner put an undersized post in there 4 years ago, and it finally broke after all that time?

    It has a 27.2 mm seat tube, not a 30.9 mm. You may need to go reread the thread again, or perhaps I need to bust out the calipers for the doubters?

  33. #33
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    you couldn't even clamp a 30.9mm tube enough to stabilize a 27.2mm post. c'mon now guys...


  34. #34
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    Sorry to hear about this. If it were my bike, I think I'd be tempted to try to salvage it - but do some prep work myself prior to giving it to a good framebuilder. Basically just like the builder/repair guy quoted you, but being surgical about the egde of the chrome removal. Perhaps a sloped line so that a sleeve, also cut and shaped by you from appropriate-diameter tubing, could be longer on the back side. The DIFFERENCE is that I'd ask him to braze rather than weld the sleeve in place, after the crack was welded and ground smooth. Paint the sleeve, and it could look like it came that way. Worse case scenario, there'd be some heat discoloration near the top of the chrome, it lasts another few years, and you gave up a saturday of riding to do the prep work. Best case, it lasts indefinitely.

    On the other hand, if we knew the Brothers were going to re-stock, maybe new is easier.
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  35. #35
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    i'd chop off the broken piece, cut a new slot and put an integrated collar on it..


  36. #36
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    I think I may try to salvage this frame... one day. And I think what I would do is cut it clean and level at the crack, carefully create a new slot, and use a shallower height seat collar (there's enough room). Perhaps I'll rebuild it as a fully rigid eventually, who knows.

    In the meantime, I've already stripped all the parts off of it, and I'm moving them to the new Toir/Riot frame I just ordered (a new headset lower assembly and a different seat post and seat collar is required, all else will transfer).

    I would have needed to strip down the N9 frame anyway, in order to be able to manipulate it properly, so that's now done.

  37. #37
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    ^^Good choice! I hear the Toir is a riot!

    Who needs a seatpost anyway?

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  38. #38
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    *The sound of "Taps" playing gently in the distance*
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Cracked my Nimble 9 below the seat collar.-n9-stripped.jpg  


  39. #39
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    *The sound of "Taps" playing gently in the distance*
    LOL, are you going to bury it in your back yard?
    No dig no whine

  40. #40
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    Quote Originally Posted by .WestCoastHucker. View Post
    i'd chop off the broken piece, cut a new slot and put an integrated collar on it..
    I'm with this line of thinking. A bit of a rub given how close the crack is to the next junction/weld but I think there are some cost effective ways to salvage this frame. You don't need much to reinforce that crack so if appearance isn't important - find a local welder.. Heck -> you could have someone fix mount a steel post in there and run your saddles low - session ready.

  41. #41
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    Grind it, have someone tig it for $25, sand it, paint it with chrome paint, ride it.

    Or just cut that piece off, slot it and drill it. Iíve done this on muni frames and hardtail, works fine.
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  42. #42
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    Quote Originally Posted by twd953 View Post
    LOL, are you going to bury it in your back yard?
    Yeah, right next to my leg lamp, that my wife inexplicably didn't like.

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