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  1. #1
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    Any Balance owners go to a 170mm then back to 160mm?

    I've been riding a new Fox 36 170 for 2 months (had a 160 Pike) and so far any combo of stem/bar length/width combo doesn't address the understeer feeling on normal trails and to some extent tight fast berms. I feel like I'm more likely to cross up the front wheel as even with a lot of leaning the bike over, it doesn't feel "balanced". I know the bros designed this bike around 160 but I was curious.

  2. #2
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    I ran 170mm for a while then switched to 160mm. It was an instant improvement for me. The front wheel tracks a lot harder, and the bike doesn't want to tip over backwards as much on the climbs.

    Now i'm running 164.98mm in the front and it's a good compromise. Still plenty of weight on the front end, but doesn't need as much speed to feel comfortable. 164.98mm is definitely the best for this bike.

  3. #3
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    Wondering if there is some compromise like running more sage like 35-40%. Would the fork perform normally if I ensure there are no tokens in it?

  4. #4
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    You could try running more sag and adding more tokens, but it's going to end up being harsh. You'll basically be blowing through the mid-stroke and running up into the bumpers all the time.

    You could try a longer stem?

    When I ran 170mm, I had a 35mm stem and 800mm bars. That definitely did not provide a "balanced" feel. Now I run a 50mm stem and it has helped keep a lot of weight on the front tire (as well as dropping the fork travel down).

  5. #5
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    How is midstroke established in a fork? Is it possible I get a less poppy fork this way? More sag with no change in tokens will get too wallowy?

    I went from a 50mm stem to 60 for a bit, then I changed the 785 bars to 750, just feels weird now. Maybe I'll keep the narrower bars and go back to 50mm next.

  6. #6
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    Iíve got a 170 stage on my balance and never had any of those problems with it. Had the bike at windrock while back and worked amazing. Took it to pisgah last fall and had no problems with front end looping out. Iíve got 35 mm stem and 780 bars


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  7. #7
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    The stage doesn't count because the axel to crown is closer, if not the same, to the 160s offered by other companies. Someone described it as a free extra 10mm of travel, but that's a dangerous line of thought. Pretty soon you'll be thinking 'hey if I got an extra 10mm of travel for free, maybe I should buy some carbon wheels with onyx hubs, or how about a riot for the missus?'

    I guess if you can ride the riot when she's not then that's a pretty good deal.

  8. #8
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    I was thinking about the same thing with the Stage. The Fox36 also has a much shorter offset compared to the Pike it was designed around. Come to think of it I don't ever see balances with Fox...

  9. #9
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    I have a 170mm Fox 36 on the 2016 Balance since day one and love it.
    No understeer whatsoever.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Thrashbarg View Post
    The stage doesn't count because the axel to crown is closer, if not the same, to the 160s offered by other companies. Someone described it as a free extra 10mm of travel, but that's a dangerous line of thought. Pretty soon you'll be thinking 'hey if I got an extra 10mm of travel for free, maybe I should buy some carbon wheels with onyx hubs, or how about a riot for the missus?'

    I guess if you can ride the riot when she's not then that's a pretty good deal.
    Well Iíve already got a riot a epo and chrome nimble9 so ....


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  11. #11
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    I rode my Balance with a Lyrik at 170 the first year and 160 last year as I sold my trail bike and needed it to climb better. Honestly I'll be going back to 170 as soon as I get a new trail bike (Balance is just too heavy for all day epics for me). What I found was that handlebar height makes a world of difference as to making the Balance feel "balanced". I cut most of my steerer tube (mistake) so now I have to rely on handlebar rise to deal with bar height. Running 50mm stem on both (5mm spacer under stem) I have it dialed by running 25 mm rise 740mm bars in 160 mode and 15mm rise, 760 bars in 170 mode. The key is keeping the SAME down force on that front tire using bar height and width. The LAST thing you want to do is start messing with sag as that will only mess with your mid-stroke support as someone else pointed out. Hope this helps, I did a LOT of experimenting before getting this DIALED.

    Have FUN!

    G MAN
    "There's two shuttles, one to the top and one to the hospital" I LOVE this place!!!

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by BTTR View Post
    I have a 170mm Fox 36 on the 2016 Balance since day one and love it.
    No understeer whatsoever.
    What stem/bar combo you riding?

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by madamfunk View Post
    What stem/bar combo you riding?
    I have a 50mm Eastern Havoc stem and a Havoc bar with 20mm rise cutted at 260mm
    It's the same combo i have on all my bikes.

  14. #14
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    170mm lyrik for me since day 1. Started with a cc dbair and went to dbcoil after a year.

    50mm stem and 800mm enve dh bars since day 1 as well.

    Feels great to me, but definitely likes going down the mountain best. Tight technical areas aren't an issue, but I do feel I work harder on smoother xc trails when a lot of pedaling is required.

  15. #15
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    I have run a 170mm Lyrik and a 170mm Fox 36. 50mm stem and 800mm bar. I have no understeer and climb everything without too much toruble -other than the wieght of my bike overall - lol. I run heavy rubber and flats so she's a little heavy. I honestly thought about going to 180 ...

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