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  1. #6201
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    Interesting. It's cheap enough ($50) that I think it would make for an interesting experiment IF i wasn't already running a 160mm fork. I don't think that would make for a particularly balanced feel. Ha ha.

  2. #6202
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    What kind of shock is it? Some air shocks such as the DVO Topaz use a spacer to convert between 200x57 and 200x51. This makes it pretty easy to swap back and forth as you like. While this isn't true for all shocks, it might be worth looking into just in case.

    As an aside, how have you been liking the 160mm fork? I've been considering bumping up to 150 or 160, but have been a bit put off by the official recommendation to not run longer than a 140mm fork. I've seen the zero stack cups that can be used to keep the fork's ATC within stock margins, but the bearings look far worse than what the EC headsets use normally. Did you decide to run the ZS lower cup, or stick with the EC?

    Thanks.

  3. #6203
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    It's a Vivid Rc2. At the end of the day, I'm probably just going to wait until i can pick up a Marzocchi Bomber CR coil shock and go with that. Still affordable and will keep the travel I want.

    For the most part, it's been great. That said, I do a fair amount of shuttling and am a bad climber at the best of times. I'm running a normal EC headset (I kind of threw the parts I had at it when i bought the frame). It's definitley easy to unweight the front end, especially when things get steep or technical. I know they have the official recommendation to not go over 140, but have seen enough unoffical "we don't have any doubt 160 will hold up" comments that I decided to run with it, especially because I ride more down than up. Lol.

  4. #6204
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    Quote Originally Posted by saskskier View Post
    It's a Vivid Rc2. At the end of the day, I'm probably just going to wait until i can pick up a Marzocchi Bomber CR coil shock and go with that. Still affordable and will keep the travel I want.

    For the most part, it's been great. That said, I do a fair amount of shuttling and am a bad climber at the best of times. I'm running a normal EC headset (I kind of threw the parts I had at it when i bought the frame). It's definitley easy to unweight the front end, especially when things get steep or technical. I know they have the official recommendation to not go over 140, but have seen enough unoffical "we don't have any doubt 160 will hold up" comments that I decided to run with it, especially because I ride more down than up. Lol.
    From SRAM's spec page on the vivd, I don't think it ever came in anything smaller than a 200x57 (what's speced stock on the riot). I previously had a vivd on my riot. I ended up selling it for $250 - it was a great shock for the serious chunk, but too heavy and lacked pop and enough bottoming resistance for daily riding. That said, it would be solid secondary shock for rougher days. If you decide to pass and the seller doesn't mind shipping, I might be interested in buying the vivd.

    The Bomber coil looks like a fantastic coil option. Super cheap, good looking shock, lots of service parts, and should be easy to custom tune through Avy. After a custom tune it probably will preform better than something like a DHX2 while also being cheaper.

    Thanks for the info on the fork, it sounds like I need to give it a shot a 150 or 160mm. How long have you been running at 160mm?

  5. #6205
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    So I picked up the Vivid and it fits perfect. Even had the right sized mounting hardware. The only problem I have now is finding a spring that's heavy enough for me (6'4 and close to 300lb geared up). Anyone know of anything heavier than 650lbs? I'll also probably give Avy a shout and see if they can make some magic happen. Until I can figure that out, the CCDB Air will conitnue to serve faithfully. Ha ha.

    160mm fork and a coil shock definitely gives it a more aggressive look!

  6. #6206
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    Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks

  7. #6207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks
    I have a large with the cane creek that I haven't gotten around to listing if you could make that work.

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  8. #6208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks
    I'm 5'6" on a Medium a large might do you better.

  9. #6209
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    Well, i'm 5.7 / 175 cm myself, not that difference ).
    Also being suspicious over that 483mm seat tube listed for L size. Huge gap from 432 for M, but could it be a mistake in a sheet? Would definetely not going over 450mm for my anthropometery.
    TOIR - 29er ALL MOUNTAIN / ENDURO | Canfield Brothers Bikes

  10. #6210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Well, i'm 5.7 / 175 cm myself, not that difference ).
    Also being suspicious over that 483mm seat tube listed for L size. Huge gap from 432 for M, but could it be a mistake in a sheet? Would definetely not going over 450mm for my anthropometery.
    TOIR - 29er ALL MOUNTAIN / ENDURO | Canfield Brothers Bikes
    Ok, yeah ya need a medium.

  11. #6211
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    Added a coil and paired with the 160mm fork, I think she'll be ready to rip down pretty much anything I can throw at it (once I find a heavier spring).

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-p5pb17387262.jpg

  12. #6212
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    I'm 173cm and ride a L but shortened the seat tube to about ~ 460mm

    The old M is definitely to short for me. My L could also be longer. Maybe they'll do an other update to the Toir?

  13. #6213
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    How is the bottom out with the coil?

  14. #6214
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    At the moment, itís much too soft so I havenít ridden anything other than city paths, so I canít speak to any kind of bottoming out yet.

    That said, despite a spring thatís way too soft, I canít believe how efficiently it pedals. The coil also feels so much smother moving through the travel than my CCDB Air.

  15. #6215
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    Quote Originally Posted by saskskier View Post
    At the moment, itís much too soft so I havenít ridden anything other than city paths, so I canít speak to any kind of bottoming out yet.

    That said, despite a spring thatís way too soft, I canít believe how efficiently it pedals. The coil also feels so much smother moving through the travel than my CCDB Air.
    Regarding the spring, a friend of mine used to run a DHX2 on his Riot before he broke it. He was using a 700lb 2.3 Fox spring. Online it looks like you can get up to a 800lb spring: https://www.tftuned.com/steel-spring-23/p2899. I'm no expert regarding coil spring compatibility so you should double check before buying, but it's definitely possible one of those Fox springs would fit on the Vivid. He did say that it took a spring compressor to mount the spring on the shock, I don't know if that would also be true for a Vivid.

  16. #6216
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    Looked around for a bit but couldn't find the post that mentions it:

    Does anyone have any guidance on the replacement axle needed to boost your Riot?

  17. #6217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fancy View Post
    Looked around for a bit but couldn't find the post that mentions it:

    Does anyone have any guidance on the replacement axle needed to boost your Riot?
    1.75 thread pitch, 174mm length (or more). I've got a salsa deadbolt which has been working fine, but there are plenty of other options available out there.

  18. #6218
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    1.75 thread pitch, 174mm length (or more). I've got a salsa deadbolt which has been working fine, but there are plenty of other options available out there.
    Perfect thats all I was looking for! Appreciate it!

  19. #6219
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    Quote Originally Posted by gfelix View Post
    I'm 173cm and ride a L but shortened the seat tube to about ~ 460mm


    The old M is definitely to short for me. My L could also be longer. Maybe they'll do an other update to the Toir?

    Do you mean v1 L size?

  20. #6220
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    I snapped the lower rear linkage bolt probably by overtightening and tried to order one from the canfield site but they just rebounded the payment, anyone know where I can get a bolt that fits? I am also missing the spacers there so looking for those too!

  21. #6221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorheimen View Post
    I snapped the lower rear linkage bolt probably by overtightening and tried to order one from the canfield site but they just rebounded the payment, anyone know where I can get a bolt that fits? I am also missing the spacers there so looking for those too!
    Oooof.... good luck, brother.
    May need to find someone with a 3d printer! or someone with a broken frame hanging in their garage who doesn't need their bolts.

  22. #6222
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    Well that is a bit scary. I was under the impression they were still in business.

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  23. #6223
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Well that is a bit scary. I was under the impression they were still in business.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
    When I saw the Oil Slick N9 on Facebook I emailed and asked to be on the list. That was Feb, can't believe it takes this long to get them in.

    June 10th is the last Facebook post. They really need to release something.
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  24. #6224
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    Apparently since the Brothers are splitting up, nothing new will be released until the legal stuff is done. Sucks to have to wait and see.

  25. #6225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorheimen View Post
    I snapped the lower rear linkage bolt probably by overtightening and tried to order one from the canfield site but they just rebounded the payment, anyone know where I can get a bolt that fits? I am also missing the spacers there so looking for those too!
    The long or short one?

  26. #6226
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Do you mean v1 L size?
    yes, the v1 large

  27. #6227
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    I was able to get spare pivot bolts a few months ago by contacting them directly. I inquired about the spacers but they were out at the time.

  28. #6228
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    Guyz...
    please lead me with riot spacing vs boost hub.

    it listed Riot has rear spacing for 142mm hub, but seems somebody using it with 148mm boost hub? Searched the thread a bit, but did not found straight answer.

    Thanks!

  29. #6229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Guyz...
    please lead me with riot spacing vs boost hub.

    it listed Riot has rear spacing for 142mm hub, but seems somebody using it with 148mm boost hub? Searched the thread a bit, but did not found straight answer.

    Thanks!
    The Riot will fit a boost hub fine. You just need a longer axle. I know Salsa and SRAM make an axle that works - you're looking for 174mm length with 1.75 thread pitch. However, if you're running a non-boost crank, switching to a boost hub may affect your chainline. I'm not an expert on that and can't say for sure (I built up my Riot with boost wheels and cranks), but it is something to consider.

  30. #6230
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    So...the chainstays are just flexible enough?
    What's over crank to chainstay clearance?
    Chainline modidication could be done with chainring only, setting a ring with 3mm offset instead if 6mm (acttual for sram DM cranks, did not check other vendors for such option).

  31. #6231
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    I would not say you need to modify the chainline at the chainring.
    actually a non boost chainline should work fine (if not better) with the boost rear.

  32. #6232
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    I would say that the boost wheel fits just fine in the chainstays, even without really needing to flex them outwards. While I haven't run a non-boost wheel on my Riot, other Riot owners have commented on this thread that they felt like the boost wheel fit better than the non-boost wheel, as they felt they had to clamp the dropouts together when installing the non-boost wheel.

    Canfield has also officially stated (I think in the balance thread) that they were running boost wheels on their bikes with no problems and wouldn't hesitate to recommend doing it. My experience completely mirrors that - when taking out and installing my rear wheel I never felt like I had to push the dropouts apart. The hub always just slips right into place. I've occasionally taken the Riot to a shop from some service. They never commented that the wheel felt any different than installing a boost wheel into a boost frame.

    The crank clearance is fine - I've got a Kona unit that has tighter crank clearance than my Riot. I'll try to upload a picture later. Again, I'm not an expert regarding cranks and chainrings, but I would guess you would want to space it identically to a boost bike if you choose to use a boost wheel.

  33. #6233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    I would say that the boost wheel fits just fine in the chainstays, even without really needing to flex them outwards. While I haven't run a non-boost wheel on my Riot, other Riot owners have commented on this thread that they felt like the boost wheel fit better than the non-boost wheel, as they felt they had to clamp the dropouts together when installing the non-boost wheel.

    Canfield has also officially stated (I think in the balance thread) that they were running boost wheels on their bikes with no problems and wouldn't hesitate to recommend doing it. My experience completely mirrors that - when taking out and installing my rear wheel I never felt like I had to push the dropouts apart. The hub always just slips right into place. I've occasionally taken the Riot to a shop from some service. They never commented that the wheel felt any different than installing a boost wheel into a boost frame.

    The crank clearance is fine - I've got a Kona unit that has tighter crank clearance than my Riot. I'll try to upload a picture later. Again, I'm not an expert regarding cranks and chainrings, but I would guess you would want to space it identically to a boost bike if you choose to use a boost wheel.
    My experience too. Started with 142, switched to boost and didn't have to touch either the brake caliper or derailleur.

  34. #6234
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    Now it's clear, thanks!
    Dug a bit over my aeffect cranks. It has 51mm chainline with standard dm ring and 52.5mm with boost spider. Typically boost hubs have 52mm chainline. Also there is a spacer on a spindle, which brings that 1mm adjustment to the desk. So, i need no changes besides that spacer placement.
    In theory

  35. #6235
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    The long or short one?
    It's the short one, I have a long one left which I currently use by placing a couple of big spacers between the head of the bolt and the frame, so the bike is useable, but certainly not optimal.

  36. #6236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorheimen View Post
    It's the short one, I have a long one left which I currently use by placing a couple of big spacers between the head of the bolt and the frame, so the bike is useable, but certainly not optimal.
    I'll check tomorrow when I get home, i bought a second frame to upsize that had a broken chain stay. So I have some spare parts.

  37. #6237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    I'll check tomorrow when I get home, i bought a second frame to upsize that had a broken chain stay. So I have some spare parts.
    Great, crossing my fingers!

  38. #6238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Now it's clear, thanks!
    Dug a bit over my aeffect cranks. It has 51mm chainline with standard dm ring and 52.5mm with boost spider. Typically boost hubs have 52mm chainline. Also there is a spacer on a spindle, which brings that 1mm adjustment to the desk. So, i need no changes besides that spacer placement.
    In theory
    I just happened to see a thread on this exact topic - running a non-boost crank with a boost rear wheel: https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-compone...e-1107735.html

    Just like Savo said, as long as the chainring clears, a non-boost crank/chainring might result in an even better chainline than a boost chainring. As far as crank clearance here's my boost Riot vs my Kona Unit:

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-img_20190704_142745.jpg

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-img_20190704_142923.jpg

    While it looks a bit tight, I haven't experienced any issues when riding either.

  39. #6239
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    1.75 thread pitch, 174mm length (or more). I've got a salsa deadbolt which has been working fine, but there are plenty of other options available out there.
    174mm or more?

    Does 174mm not thread right though to the frame? Is there is room for a longer axle?

    Several manufacturers I see make 174mm and 180mm. Any idea which would be MOST suitable?

    I don't suppose you could post a quick picture of how close the axle thread come to the outer side of the frame it's threading though? Or let me know how many extra mm grace you figure 174mm may have?
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  40. #6240
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    174mm or more?

    Does 174mm not thread right though to the frame? Is there is room for a longer axle?

    Several manufacturers I see make 174mm and 180mm. Any idea which would be MOST suitable?

    I don't suppose you could post a quick picture of how close the axle thread come to the outer side of the frame it's threading though? Or let me know how many extra mm grace you figure 174mm may have?
    Sorry, I don't quite understand what you mean by "thread right through to the frame". There definitely is room for a longer axle. I've run both 174mm and 180mm axles without problem.

    I find that 174mm is better than 180mm. 174mm leaves some axle showing, but not too much. I'm currently using a 174mm Salsa Deadbolt, it seems to work fine - maybe 3mm visible. Before that I was using a 180mm Maxle, there was definitely a good bit sticking out - 7/8mm or so.

    I'll get a picture of my current setup as well to better highlight what it looks like.

  41. #6241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    Sorry, I don't quite understand what you mean by "thread right through to the frame". There definitely is room for a longer axle. I've run both 174mm and 180mm axles without problem.

    I find that 174mm is better than 180mm. 174mm leaves some axle showing, but not too much. I'm currently using a 174mm Salsa Deadbolt, it seems to work fine - maybe 3mm visible. Before that I was using a 180mm Maxle, there was definitely a good bit sticking out - 7/8mm or so.

    I'll get a picture of my current setup as well to better highlight what it looks like.
    That's more or less what I mean - is it threaded right though the frame and sticking out?

    I figured you said 174 or more, because 174mm may not have threaded all the way though to the point of sticking out the other side!

    So 174 works well, more would just pass though the frame and stick out a little more. That's what I was trying to figure out =)

    A picture of the axle exiting and sticking out the frame would be very helpful - thank you for the reply!
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  42. #6242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorheimen View Post
    Great, crossing my fingers!
    I need to check at work. I cannot find them. Will keep looking

  43. #6243
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    That's more or less what I mean - is it threaded right though the frame and sticking out?

    I figured you said 174 or more, because 174mm may not have threaded all the way though to the point of sticking out the other side!

    So 174 works well, more would just pass though the frame and stick out a little more. That's what I was trying to figure out =)

    A picture of the axle exiting and sticking out the frame would be very helpful - thank you for the reply!
    Yep, 174mm definitely passes all the way through the dropouts and sticks a bit out the other side. 180mm does the same, just it sticks more out the other side. I'll definite snag a picture when I get home.

  44. #6244
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    Here you go - as you can see the 174mm fits pretty well. Depending on how much you torque the axle it will stick out more or less, but with any amount of reasonable torque it will fit just fine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-img_20190709_184514.jpg  


  45. #6245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post




    Here you go - as you can see the 174mm fits pretty well. Depending on how much you torque the axle it will stick out more or less, but with any amount of reasonable torque it will fit just fine.
    Perfect. That is awesome. So the 172 or 174 looks sensible. Seeing this, I would avoid the 180, personally.

    Thanks again!!
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  46. #6246
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    Perfect. That is awesome. So the 172 or 174 looks sensible. Seeing this, I would avoid the 180, personally.

    Thanks again!!
    No problem, if you find a 172mm let me know. I think that would fit just about flush, but I haven't seen any brands offering them.

  47. #6247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    No problem, if you find a 172mm let me know. I think that would fit just about flush, but I haven't seen any brands offering them.
    This should do the trick.

    Ignoring the 142 designation, there is a 172mm 1.75p

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod176624

    And it's cheap!
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  48. #6248
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    This should do the trick.

    Ignoring the 142 designation, there is a 172mm 1.75p

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod176624

    And it's cheap!
    Looks great - I would appreciate if you let me know how it works. If it fits well I'll probably be looking to pick one up.

  49. #6249
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    Are many of you guys/any of you guys using works components headsets or cane Creek anglesets?

    I am curious how the bike would run with a slightly slacker HTA.
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  50. #6250
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    Are many of you guys/any of you guys using works components headsets or cane Creek anglesets?

    I am curious how the bike would run with a slightly slacker HTA.
    I think back on the previous page there was some discussion of running the Riot with angleset. If I remember correctly it was basically exclusively positive - as I would expect, since a angleset basically exclusively offers benefits. Slacker HTA, steeper STA, longer reach. If you're looking for a slacker HTA, then I don't think you would be going wrong with a headset from Superstar or Works.

  51. #6251
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    Are many of you guys/any of you guys using works components headsets or cane Creek anglesets?

    I am curious how the bike would run with a slightly slacker HTA.

    Iím doing but not yet ridden so much times since then.


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  52. #6252
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    I am very happy with my bike. Works -1 degree. I am running a 150mm Fox 36, slackening the bike a tad more and at the same time keeping the rest of the numbers close to stock bike (140mm Pike). Gained more confidence. More stable. Maybe a little less playful.

  53. #6253
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    Does anyone know if the "upper link bolts" for the Riot are the exact same "upper link bolts" used on the 2016/17 Balance?

    I want to purchase service parts for my Riot frame, off of the Canfield Brothers webstore, but under parts listed to purchase for the Riot they no longer have available the "upper link bolts".

    There are "upper link bolts" available for purchase under the Balance service parts options, and I was under the impression that the Riot and 2016/17 Balance "upper link bolts" were identical.

    Am I wrong?
    Last edited by A. Rider; 1 Day Ago at 05:30 PM.

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