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  1. #6201
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    Interesting. It's cheap enough ($50) that I think it would make for an interesting experiment IF i wasn't already running a 160mm fork. I don't think that would make for a particularly balanced feel. Ha ha.

  2. #6202
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    What kind of shock is it? Some air shocks such as the DVO Topaz use a spacer to convert between 200x57 and 200x51. This makes it pretty easy to swap back and forth as you like. While this isn't true for all shocks, it might be worth looking into just in case.

    As an aside, how have you been liking the 160mm fork? I've been considering bumping up to 150 or 160, but have been a bit put off by the official recommendation to not run longer than a 140mm fork. I've seen the zero stack cups that can be used to keep the fork's ATC within stock margins, but the bearings look far worse than what the EC headsets use normally. Did you decide to run the ZS lower cup, or stick with the EC?

    Thanks.

  3. #6203
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    It's a Vivid Rc2. At the end of the day, I'm probably just going to wait until i can pick up a Marzocchi Bomber CR coil shock and go with that. Still affordable and will keep the travel I want.

    For the most part, it's been great. That said, I do a fair amount of shuttling and am a bad climber at the best of times. I'm running a normal EC headset (I kind of threw the parts I had at it when i bought the frame). It's definitley easy to unweight the front end, especially when things get steep or technical. I know they have the official recommendation to not go over 140, but have seen enough unoffical "we don't have any doubt 160 will hold up" comments that I decided to run with it, especially because I ride more down than up. Lol.

  4. #6204
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    Quote Originally Posted by saskskier View Post
    It's a Vivid Rc2. At the end of the day, I'm probably just going to wait until i can pick up a Marzocchi Bomber CR coil shock and go with that. Still affordable and will keep the travel I want.

    For the most part, it's been great. That said, I do a fair amount of shuttling and am a bad climber at the best of times. I'm running a normal EC headset (I kind of threw the parts I had at it when i bought the frame). It's definitley easy to unweight the front end, especially when things get steep or technical. I know they have the official recommendation to not go over 140, but have seen enough unoffical "we don't have any doubt 160 will hold up" comments that I decided to run with it, especially because I ride more down than up. Lol.
    From SRAM's spec page on the vivd, I don't think it ever came in anything smaller than a 200x57 (what's speced stock on the riot). I previously had a vivd on my riot. I ended up selling it for $250 - it was a great shock for the serious chunk, but too heavy and lacked pop and enough bottoming resistance for daily riding. That said, it would be solid secondary shock for rougher days. If you decide to pass and the seller doesn't mind shipping, I might be interested in buying the vivd.

    The Bomber coil looks like a fantastic coil option. Super cheap, good looking shock, lots of service parts, and should be easy to custom tune through Avy. After a custom tune it probably will preform better than something like a DHX2 while also being cheaper.

    Thanks for the info on the fork, it sounds like I need to give it a shot a 150 or 160mm. How long have you been running at 160mm?

  5. #6205
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    So I picked up the Vivid and it fits perfect. Even had the right sized mounting hardware. The only problem I have now is finding a spring that's heavy enough for me (6'4 and close to 300lb geared up). Anyone know of anything heavier than 650lbs? I'll also probably give Avy a shout and see if they can make some magic happen. Until I can figure that out, the CCDB Air will conitnue to serve faithfully. Ha ha.

    160mm fork and a coil shock definitely gives it a more aggressive look!

  6. #6206
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    Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks

  7. #6207
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks
    I have a large with the cane creek that I haven't gotten around to listing if you could make that work.

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  8. #6208
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks
    I'm 5'6" on a Medium a large might do you better.

  9. #6209
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    Well, i'm 5.7 / 175 cm myself, not that difference ).
    Also being suspicious over that 483mm seat tube listed for L size. Huge gap from 432 for M, but could it be a mistake in a sheet? Would definetely not going over 450mm for my anthropometery.
    TOIR - 29er ALL MOUNTAIN / ENDURO | Canfield Brothers Bikes

  10. #6210
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Well, i'm 5.7 / 175 cm myself, not that difference ).
    Also being suspicious over that 483mm seat tube listed for L size. Huge gap from 432 for M, but could it be a mistake in a sheet? Would definetely not going over 450mm for my anthropometery.
    TOIR - 29er ALL MOUNTAIN / ENDURO | Canfield Brothers Bikes
    Ok, yeah ya need a medium.

  11. #6211
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    Added a coil and paired with the 160mm fork, I think she'll be ready to rip down pretty much anything I can throw at it (once I find a heavier spring).

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-p5pb17387262.jpg

  12. #6212
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    I'm 173cm and ride a L but shortened the seat tube to about ~ 460mm

    The old M is definitely to short for me. My L could also be longer. Maybe they'll do an other update to the Toir?

  13. #6213
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    How is the bottom out with the coil?

  14. #6214
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    At the moment, itís much too soft so I havenít ridden anything other than city paths, so I canít speak to any kind of bottoming out yet.

    That said, despite a spring thatís way too soft, I canít believe how efficiently it pedals. The coil also feels so much smother moving through the travel than my CCDB Air.

  15. #6215
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    Quote Originally Posted by saskskier View Post
    At the moment, itís much too soft so I havenít ridden anything other than city paths, so I canít speak to any kind of bottoming out yet.

    That said, despite a spring thatís way too soft, I canít believe how efficiently it pedals. The coil also feels so much smother moving through the travel than my CCDB Air.
    Regarding the spring, a friend of mine used to run a DHX2 on his Riot before he broke it. He was using a 700lb 2.3 Fox spring. Online it looks like you can get up to a 800lb spring: https://www.tftuned.com/steel-spring-23/p2899. I'm no expert regarding coil spring compatibility so you should double check before buying, but it's definitely possible one of those Fox springs would fit on the Vivid. He did say that it took a spring compressor to mount the spring on the shock, I don't know if that would also be true for a Vivid.

  16. #6216
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    Looked around for a bit but couldn't find the post that mentions it:

    Does anyone have any guidance on the replacement axle needed to boost your Riot?

  17. #6217
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    Quote Originally Posted by Fancy View Post
    Looked around for a bit but couldn't find the post that mentions it:

    Does anyone have any guidance on the replacement axle needed to boost your Riot?
    1.75 thread pitch, 174mm length (or more). I've got a salsa deadbolt which has been working fine, but there are plenty of other options available out there.

  18. #6218
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    1.75 thread pitch, 174mm length (or more). I've got a salsa deadbolt which has been working fine, but there are plenty of other options available out there.
    Perfect thats all I was looking for! Appreciate it!

  19. #6219
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    Quote Originally Posted by gfelix View Post
    I'm 173cm and ride a L but shortened the seat tube to about ~ 460mm


    The old M is definitely to short for me. My L could also be longer. Maybe they'll do an other update to the Toir?

    Do you mean v1 L size?

  20. #6220
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    I snapped the lower rear linkage bolt probably by overtightening and tried to order one from the canfield site but they just rebounded the payment, anyone know where I can get a bolt that fits? I am also missing the spacers there so looking for those too!

  21. #6221
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorheimen View Post
    I snapped the lower rear linkage bolt probably by overtightening and tried to order one from the canfield site but they just rebounded the payment, anyone know where I can get a bolt that fits? I am also missing the spacers there so looking for those too!
    Oooof.... good luck, brother.
    May need to find someone with a 3d printer! or someone with a broken frame hanging in their garage who doesn't need their bolts.

  22. #6222
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    Well that is a bit scary. I was under the impression they were still in business.

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  23. #6223
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    Quote Originally Posted by hitechredneck View Post
    Well that is a bit scary. I was under the impression they were still in business.

    Sent from my SAMSUNG-SGH-I537 using Tapatalk
    When I saw the Oil Slick N9 on Facebook I emailed and asked to be on the list. That was Feb, can't believe it takes this long to get them in.

    June 10th is the last Facebook post. They really need to release something.
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  24. #6224
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    Apparently since the Brothers are splitting up, nothing new will be released until the legal stuff is done. Sucks to have to wait and see.

  25. #6225
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorheimen View Post
    I snapped the lower rear linkage bolt probably by overtightening and tried to order one from the canfield site but they just rebounded the payment, anyone know where I can get a bolt that fits? I am also missing the spacers there so looking for those too!
    The long or short one?

  26. #6226
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Do you mean v1 L size?
    yes, the v1 large

  27. #6227
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    I was able to get spare pivot bolts a few months ago by contacting them directly. I inquired about the spacers but they were out at the time.

  28. #6228
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    Guyz...
    please lead me with riot spacing vs boost hub.

    it listed Riot has rear spacing for 142mm hub, but seems somebody using it with 148mm boost hub? Searched the thread a bit, but did not found straight answer.

    Thanks!

  29. #6229
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Guyz...
    please lead me with riot spacing vs boost hub.

    it listed Riot has rear spacing for 142mm hub, but seems somebody using it with 148mm boost hub? Searched the thread a bit, but did not found straight answer.

    Thanks!
    The Riot will fit a boost hub fine. You just need a longer axle. I know Salsa and SRAM make an axle that works - you're looking for 174mm length with 1.75 thread pitch. However, if you're running a non-boost crank, switching to a boost hub may affect your chainline. I'm not an expert on that and can't say for sure (I built up my Riot with boost wheels and cranks), but it is something to consider.

  30. #6230
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    So...the chainstays are just flexible enough?
    What's over crank to chainstay clearance?
    Chainline modidication could be done with chainring only, setting a ring with 3mm offset instead if 6mm (acttual for sram DM cranks, did not check other vendors for such option).

  31. #6231
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    I would not say you need to modify the chainline at the chainring.
    actually a non boost chainline should work fine (if not better) with the boost rear.

  32. #6232
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    I would say that the boost wheel fits just fine in the chainstays, even without really needing to flex them outwards. While I haven't run a non-boost wheel on my Riot, other Riot owners have commented on this thread that they felt like the boost wheel fit better than the non-boost wheel, as they felt they had to clamp the dropouts together when installing the non-boost wheel.

    Canfield has also officially stated (I think in the balance thread) that they were running boost wheels on their bikes with no problems and wouldn't hesitate to recommend doing it. My experience completely mirrors that - when taking out and installing my rear wheel I never felt like I had to push the dropouts apart. The hub always just slips right into place. I've occasionally taken the Riot to a shop from some service. They never commented that the wheel felt any different than installing a boost wheel into a boost frame.

    The crank clearance is fine - I've got a Kona unit that has tighter crank clearance than my Riot. I'll try to upload a picture later. Again, I'm not an expert regarding cranks and chainrings, but I would guess you would want to space it identically to a boost bike if you choose to use a boost wheel.

  33. #6233
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    I would say that the boost wheel fits just fine in the chainstays, even without really needing to flex them outwards. While I haven't run a non-boost wheel on my Riot, other Riot owners have commented on this thread that they felt like the boost wheel fit better than the non-boost wheel, as they felt they had to clamp the dropouts together when installing the non-boost wheel.

    Canfield has also officially stated (I think in the balance thread) that they were running boost wheels on their bikes with no problems and wouldn't hesitate to recommend doing it. My experience completely mirrors that - when taking out and installing my rear wheel I never felt like I had to push the dropouts apart. The hub always just slips right into place. I've occasionally taken the Riot to a shop from some service. They never commented that the wheel felt any different than installing a boost wheel into a boost frame.

    The crank clearance is fine - I've got a Kona unit that has tighter crank clearance than my Riot. I'll try to upload a picture later. Again, I'm not an expert regarding cranks and chainrings, but I would guess you would want to space it identically to a boost bike if you choose to use a boost wheel.
    My experience too. Started with 142, switched to boost and didn't have to touch either the brake caliper or derailleur.

  34. #6234
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    Now it's clear, thanks!
    Dug a bit over my aeffect cranks. It has 51mm chainline with standard dm ring and 52.5mm with boost spider. Typically boost hubs have 52mm chainline. Also there is a spacer on a spindle, which brings that 1mm adjustment to the desk. So, i need no changes besides that spacer placement.
    In theory

  35. #6235
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    The long or short one?
    It's the short one, I have a long one left which I currently use by placing a couple of big spacers between the head of the bolt and the frame, so the bike is useable, but certainly not optimal.

  36. #6236
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorheimen View Post
    It's the short one, I have a long one left which I currently use by placing a couple of big spacers between the head of the bolt and the frame, so the bike is useable, but certainly not optimal.
    I'll check tomorrow when I get home, i bought a second frame to upsize that had a broken chain stay. So I have some spare parts.

  37. #6237
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    I'll check tomorrow when I get home, i bought a second frame to upsize that had a broken chain stay. So I have some spare parts.
    Great, crossing my fingers!

  38. #6238
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Now it's clear, thanks!
    Dug a bit over my aeffect cranks. It has 51mm chainline with standard dm ring and 52.5mm with boost spider. Typically boost hubs have 52mm chainline. Also there is a spacer on a spindle, which brings that 1mm adjustment to the desk. So, i need no changes besides that spacer placement.
    In theory
    I just happened to see a thread on this exact topic - running a non-boost crank with a boost rear wheel: https://forums.mtbr.com/29er-compone...e-1107735.html

    Just like Savo said, as long as the chainring clears, a non-boost crank/chainring might result in an even better chainline than a boost chainring. As far as crank clearance here's my boost Riot vs my Kona Unit:

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-img_20190704_142745.jpg

    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-img_20190704_142923.jpg

    While it looks a bit tight, I haven't experienced any issues when riding either.

  39. #6239
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    1.75 thread pitch, 174mm length (or more). I've got a salsa deadbolt which has been working fine, but there are plenty of other options available out there.
    174mm or more?

    Does 174mm not thread right though to the frame? Is there is room for a longer axle?

    Several manufacturers I see make 174mm and 180mm. Any idea which would be MOST suitable?

    I don't suppose you could post a quick picture of how close the axle thread come to the outer side of the frame it's threading though? Or let me know how many extra mm grace you figure 174mm may have?
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  40. #6240
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    174mm or more?

    Does 174mm not thread right though to the frame? Is there is room for a longer axle?

    Several manufacturers I see make 174mm and 180mm. Any idea which would be MOST suitable?

    I don't suppose you could post a quick picture of how close the axle thread come to the outer side of the frame it's threading though? Or let me know how many extra mm grace you figure 174mm may have?
    Sorry, I don't quite understand what you mean by "thread right through to the frame". There definitely is room for a longer axle. I've run both 174mm and 180mm axles without problem.

    I find that 174mm is better than 180mm. 174mm leaves some axle showing, but not too much. I'm currently using a 174mm Salsa Deadbolt, it seems to work fine - maybe 3mm visible. Before that I was using a 180mm Maxle, there was definitely a good bit sticking out - 7/8mm or so.

    I'll get a picture of my current setup as well to better highlight what it looks like.

  41. #6241
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    Sorry, I don't quite understand what you mean by "thread right through to the frame". There definitely is room for a longer axle. I've run both 174mm and 180mm axles without problem.

    I find that 174mm is better than 180mm. 174mm leaves some axle showing, but not too much. I'm currently using a 174mm Salsa Deadbolt, it seems to work fine - maybe 3mm visible. Before that I was using a 180mm Maxle, there was definitely a good bit sticking out - 7/8mm or so.

    I'll get a picture of my current setup as well to better highlight what it looks like.
    That's more or less what I mean - is it threaded right though the frame and sticking out?

    I figured you said 174 or more, because 174mm may not have threaded all the way though to the point of sticking out the other side!

    So 174 works well, more would just pass though the frame and stick out a little more. That's what I was trying to figure out =)

    A picture of the axle exiting and sticking out the frame would be very helpful - thank you for the reply!
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  42. #6242
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorheimen View Post
    Great, crossing my fingers!
    I need to check at work. I cannot find them. Will keep looking

  43. #6243
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    That's more or less what I mean - is it threaded right though the frame and sticking out?

    I figured you said 174 or more, because 174mm may not have threaded all the way though to the point of sticking out the other side!

    So 174 works well, more would just pass though the frame and stick out a little more. That's what I was trying to figure out =)

    A picture of the axle exiting and sticking out the frame would be very helpful - thank you for the reply!
    Yep, 174mm definitely passes all the way through the dropouts and sticks a bit out the other side. 180mm does the same, just it sticks more out the other side. I'll definite snag a picture when I get home.

  44. #6244
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    Here you go - as you can see the 174mm fits pretty well. Depending on how much you torque the axle it will stick out more or less, but with any amount of reasonable torque it will fit just fine.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-img_20190709_184514.jpg  


  45. #6245
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post




    Here you go - as you can see the 174mm fits pretty well. Depending on how much you torque the axle it will stick out more or less, but with any amount of reasonable torque it will fit just fine.
    Perfect. That is awesome. So the 172 or 174 looks sensible. Seeing this, I would avoid the 180, personally.

    Thanks again!!
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  46. #6246
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    Perfect. That is awesome. So the 172 or 174 looks sensible. Seeing this, I would avoid the 180, personally.

    Thanks again!!
    No problem, if you find a 172mm let me know. I think that would fit just about flush, but I haven't seen any brands offering them.

  47. #6247
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    No problem, if you find a 172mm let me know. I think that would fit just about flush, but I haven't seen any brands offering them.
    This should do the trick.

    Ignoring the 142 designation, there is a 172mm 1.75p

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod176624

    And it's cheap!
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  48. #6248
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    This should do the trick.

    Ignoring the 142 designation, there is a 172mm 1.75p

    https://www.chainreactioncycles.com/.../rp-prod176624

    And it's cheap!
    Looks great - I would appreciate if you let me know how it works. If it fits well I'll probably be looking to pick one up.

  49. #6249
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    Are many of you guys/any of you guys using works components headsets or cane Creek anglesets?

    I am curious how the bike would run with a slightly slacker HTA.
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  50. #6250
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    Are many of you guys/any of you guys using works components headsets or cane Creek anglesets?

    I am curious how the bike would run with a slightly slacker HTA.
    I think back on the previous page there was some discussion of running the Riot with angleset. If I remember correctly it was basically exclusively positive - as I would expect, since a angleset basically exclusively offers benefits. Slacker HTA, steeper STA, longer reach. If you're looking for a slacker HTA, then I don't think you would be going wrong with a headset from Superstar or Works.

  51. #6251
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    Quote Originally Posted by mjw View Post
    Are many of you guys/any of you guys using works components headsets or cane Creek anglesets?

    I am curious how the bike would run with a slightly slacker HTA.

    Iím doing but not yet ridden so much times since then.


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  52. #6252
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    I am very happy with my bike. Works -1 degree. I am running a 150mm Fox 36, slackening the bike a tad more and at the same time keeping the rest of the numbers close to stock bike (140mm Pike). Gained more confidence. More stable. Maybe a little less playful.

  53. #6253
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    Does anyone know if the "upper link bolts" for the Riot are the exact same "upper link bolts" used on the 2016/17 Balance?

    I want to purchase service parts for my Riot frame, off of the Canfield Brothers webstore, but under parts listed to purchase for the Riot they no longer have available the "upper link bolts".

    There are "upper link bolts" available for purchase under the Balance service parts options, and I was under the impression that the Riot and 2016/17 Balance "upper link bolts" were identical.

    Am I wrong?
    Last edited by A. Rider; 07-18-2019 at 05:30 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Neck Romancer View Post

    No. All it does is add to your stack height under the headtube, effectively giving you a larger a2c. You could achieve the same thing just buy bumping your travel up 10mm.

    Side affects of either are a higher front end, higher BB, and slacker sta. Not great imho. I would rather a proper angleset.
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  56. #6256
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    Actually seems pretty good for the rigid fork on my N9...

  57. #6257
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    So, just got my Riot, what settings do you use for the DVO Topaz and Cane Creek DB air CS?

    Haven't gotten a chance to try it with the right size shock yet
    I'm 77 kg/170 lb with gear I think.
    Last edited by javisst44; 07-30-2019 at 10:28 PM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by saskskier View Post

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Wasn't sure a 650lb spring would be enough, but seems to be working great and definitely feels smoother going through the travel than my CCDB Air did.

    I'm scared to figure out how much it weighs right now... XL frame, 160mm fork, coil shock, and generally built to be strong, not light.

  59. #6259
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    Quote Originally Posted by Sorheimen View Post
    I snapped the lower rear linkage bolt probably by overtightening and tried to order one from the canfield site but they just rebounded the payment, anyone know where I can get a bolt that fits? I am also missing the spacers there so looking for those too!
    Doing some cleaning and found my links and bolts did you still need one?

  60. #6260
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    Has anyone tried a reduced offset fork? I'm eyeing the DVO Sapphire 34 or Diamond with 44mm offset.

    Also, anyone try a 27.5 wheel in the back?

    There seem to be some discussions on these two topics, but no final reports of good/bad.

  61. #6261
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    Doing some cleaning and found my links and bolts did you still need one?
    What color links? Would you sell them? The frame I got has blue and I'm thinking of green to match the DVO shock/fork or orange to math the few orange bits that will come over from my current bike (mainly the Industry 9 hubs).
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  62. #6262
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    Has anyone tried a reduced offset fork? I'm eyeing the DVO Sapphire 34 or Diamond with 44mm offset.

    Also, anyone try a 27.5 wheel in the back?

    There seem to be some discussions on these two topics, but no final reports of good/bad.
    I'm on a 42į offset. It really tamed the wandering and made it more stable at higher speeds. More traction on the front.

    The 27.5 on the rear was ok but it probably would work better on a longer wheelbase longer chain stay bike. I didn't like the difference in feel hiting large square hits. Hung up into the rear more.

  63. #6263
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    What color links? Would you sell them? The frame I got has blue and I'm thinking of green to match the DVO shock/fork or orange to math the few orange bits that will come over from my current bike (mainly the Industry 9 hubs).
    They are silver /no color, could be painted or sent to be Adonized

  64. #6264
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    Has anyone tried a reduced offset fork? I'm eyeing the DVO Sapphire 34 or Diamond with 44mm offset.

    Also, anyone try a 27.5 wheel in the back?

    There seem to be some discussions on these two topics, but no final reports of good/bad.
    I've run a 46mm and 51mm offset MRP fork on mine (29 wheels front and back). I was surprised by the degree to which I preferred the 51mm offset. The biggest difference was the feedback at the limit. The 51mm offset seemed to offer a lot more feel to correct slides while the 46mm provided less feedback.

  65. #6265
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackbart View Post
    I've run a 46mm and 51mm offset MRP fork on mine (29 wheels front and back). I was surprised by the degree to which I preferred the 51mm offset. The biggest difference was the feedback at the limit. The 51mm offset seemed to offer a lot more feel to correct slides while the 46mm provided less feedback.
    True, at the limit 51į slides, lower offset tends to tuck first.

  66. #6266
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    Quote Originally Posted by blackbart View Post
    I've run a 46mm and 51mm offset MRP fork on mine (29 wheels front and back). I was surprised by the degree to which I preferred the 51mm offset. The biggest difference was the feedback at the limit. The 51mm offset seemed to offer a lot more feel to correct slides while the 46mm provided less feedback.
    I don't ride to the limit that much. So that's not much of an issue for me. On other bikes I notice that with 51mm offset the first 15-20 degrees of steering are a bit floppy and there is a point where the bike feels really unstable then quickly feels normal/good again. Its also like the bike wants to steer more initially.

    With 44/46mm that is largely gone. Granted its a bit slower steering, but feels more in control and I don't have that feeling like it wants to steer more than I want to input.

    I also notice on technical climbs the reduced offset tracks better. I suspect this has to do with the length of the lever that 51mm creates. longer offset allows rocks and roots more leverage to knock the front wheel around.

    The reduced offset seems to only be on and work with bikes that have sub 66 degree HTAs. Tallboy 4, Hightower 2, Transition Smuggler/Patrol, Ibis Ripley 4. Those all feel great when I rode them. I also rode an Intense Primer (new one) and it has similar geo but 51mm offset....it had the floppy off feeling steering I don't like. I think they missed the boat with that fork spec.

    DVO and Yeti both have podcasts where they talk about reduced offset forks on slacker 29" bikes. The Yeti engineer said on paper and in theory 51mm would steer better. However on the trail they were surprised how much they preferred 44mm. DVO said they tested a few options and also felt 44mm felt the best.

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    I run 44mm offset with 29x2.6 tires and really like the setup when going fast. I also feel as though it gives me more precise handling at all speeds. When going slow the steering does feel a bit heavy, like it requires a little more effort to initiate. Now when I go back to riding a bike with a 51mm offset it feels twitchy and floppy.

    I recently gave a try running my 27.5 x 2.8 Rekons on the back and a 29x2.4 DHRII up front. It has some merit I suppose but I didn't care for it overall. It maybe improved tight handling some as it felt like the bike could be thrown around a little more but the tires were too different. It just felt strange and I perceived no noticeable benefit.
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  68. #6268
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyandhisBike View Post
    I run 44mm offset with 29x2.6 tires and really like the setup when going fast. I also feel as though it gives me more precise handling at all speeds. When going slow the steering does feel a bit heavy, like it requires a little more effort to initiate. Now when I go back to riding a bike with a 51mm offset it feels twitchy and floppy.

    How wide are your bars and how long is your stem?

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    That's a valid question. My stem is 50mm and my bars started life as 800's but they measured more like 805 and I cut 15mm off each side so they are around 775. They're comfortable at that width but they're too wide. I keep saying I'm going to cut them down some more but have yet to actually do it, because you know how you can't put it back on once you do.
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  70. #6270
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    Quote Originally Posted by StumpyandhisBike View Post
    That's a valid question. My stem is 50mm and my bars started life as 800's but they measured more like 805 and I cut 15mm off each side so they are around 775. They're comfortable at that width but they're too wide. I keep saying I'm going to cut them down some more but have yet to actually do it, because you know how you can't put it back on once you do.
    Thanks, both of those would slow steering a bit, but are also about what I would want to run (I use bars 780-800).

    Definitely sounds like the reduced offset works for this bike.

  71. #6271
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    I'm on a 45mm stem with 42į offset. 770 bars. With the Riot having such short wheelbase and short chain stays I think the bike is better with shorter offset.

  72. #6272
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    Doing some cleaning and found my links and bolts did you still need one?
    Yes, still using the long one as a replacement for the short one, I guess we could work out the details on PMs

  73. #6273
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks
    Bump
    Still watchin' if there's any!

  74. #6274
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    "Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks
    Bump
    Still watchin' if there's any!"

    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Bump
    Still watchin' if there's any!
    You can still buy a brand-spankin'-new Riot frame, in size medium (only), from the Canfield web site, for only $999 including a damn-good DVO Topaz shock.

    SHOP Toir 29 | Canfield Brothers Online Store

    (This was a no-brainer for me, btw)

  75. #6275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Bump
    Still watchin' if there's any!
    Yup, on their site. Otherwise very few options.

    If you do get one and want blue links (or maybe silver) let me know. I have them and prefer green, which are available with the new frames. We could work out a trade.

  76. #6276
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    Their site is 2017 leftovers...it just kills me that the Riot STILL has such a following and relevance years after it was introduced and even after production stopped, but Canfield has been almost entirely out of the frame business. I really miss mine, I've matured as a rider and shed a bunch of weight in the last couple years, I'm curious what a lighter, faster Glenngineer would be able.to do on a Riot again...

  77. #6277
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    Quote Originally Posted by Glenngineer View Post
    Their site is 2017 leftovers...it just kills me that the Riot STILL has such a following and relevance years after it was introduced and even after production stopped, but Canfield has been almost entirely out of the frame business. I really miss mine, I've matured as a rider and shed a bunch of weight in the last couple years, I'm curious what a lighter, faster Glenngineer would be able.to do on a Riot again...
    I've heard they had plans for carbon, but bad molds messed that up. Now it sounds like the brothers want to part business ways and while the lawyers sort that out they cannot produce anything new.

    Once all that is settled there will be new production. Carbon? Updated geometry?

    Have you seen the new Ripmo? Aluminium and DVO suspension. Its like an updated Riot without CBF.

    I'm looking forward to getting mine. I've got a used frame on the way and will swap over all my parts (DVO suspension) to get a good apples to apples comparison between the Riot and my Tallboy LTc. I've also demoed most of the current "best ever" bikes and can compare how the Riot does vs those. On paper its not much different apart from its shorter chain stays,reduced reach, and impressive kinematics with CBF. Its really aged well.

  78. #6278
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    I am still clinging to the hope that a carbon Riot will be unveiled one day. The Revel Rascal ticks many of the boxes that I am looking for (I love the CBF suspension) but I really enjoy the Riot's geometry (e.g. steep seat tube angle, short chain stays, etc.). I love my Canfield Riot (outfitted witha DVO Diamond and Topaz) but I can definitely feel the weight on long and steep climbs in the Tahoe basin.

  79. #6279
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyC View Post
    I am still clinging to the hope that a carbon Riot will be unveiled one day. The Revel Rascal ticks many of the boxes that I am looking for (I love the CBF suspension) but I really enjoy the Riot's geometry (e.g. steep seat tube angle, short chain stays, etc.). I love my Canfield Riot (outfitted witha DVO Diamond and Topaz) but I can definitely feel the weight on long and steep climbs in the Tahoe basin.
    [incorrect info, removed]
    Last edited by Doug; 09-11-2019 at 12:23 PM. Reason: wrong info
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    Interesting--thx for the info.

  81. #6281
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    The pedal dynamics are also different. Lower Anti-squat so not as firm a pedaling platform. Sort of like Pivot vs Ibis DW Link.
    Not really.
    The Instant Center moves more front to back, instead of up and down.
    The Center of Curvature moves across the top of the ring a little instead of the Riot which sits in one spot at about 1230 o'clock on the ring.
    Your Anti-squat numbers are not that different and also depend on the chainring size.
    CBF is a formula. It can be mounted on a bunch of layouts. The key is in the patent. It balances over the Chainring to target the IC through out travel. Pairing the movement of the rear axle and the chain to the same place.


    The Revel rides like a CBF for sure.

  82. #6282
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    Thanks for the excellent input!

  83. #6283
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    Quote Originally Posted by cSquared View Post
    Not really.
    The Instant Center moves more front to back, instead of up and down.
    The Center of Curvature moves across the top of the ring a little instead of the Riot which sits in one spot at about 1230 o'clock on the ring.
    Your Anti-squat numbers are not that different and also depend on the chainring size.
    CBF is a formula. It can be mounted on a bunch of layouts. The key is in the patent. It balances over the Chainring to target the IC through out travel. Pairing the movement of the rear axle and the chain to the same place.


    The Revel rides like a CBF for sure.
    Thanks for correcting me. I was going off someone who rode a Revel as well as what someone at Revel themselves told me. Maybe the Revel guy's attempts to sound better than a Riot backfired by trying to make it sound like the ride was different.

  84. #6284
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    Quote Originally Posted by A. Rider View Post
    "Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks
    Bump
    Still watchin' if there's any!"



    You can still buy a brand-spankin'-new Riot frame, in size medium (only), from the Canfield web site, for only $999 including a damn-good DVO Topaz shock.

    SHOP Toir 29 | Canfield Brothers Online Store

    (This was a no-brainer for me, btw)
    I wouldn't trust the inventory on their website. I tried to buy a medium Jedi frame a couple of weeks ago and my credit card ended up being refunded. I emailed to see what's up and Sean said they didn't have any Jedi frames left, even though it's STILL listed on their website for $1,099. Not sure about other frames though. He did mention to expect new frames this winter, whatever that means.

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    Guys, just get a Revel. They are badass.

  86. #6286
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    Quote Originally Posted by CWnSWCO View Post
    Guys, just get a Revel. They are badass.
    The Revels look badass, but me and plastic bikes don't get along. Also, I'm not sure you can run a coil on a Revel. Can anyone confirm? It looks like it a has a really long yoke that would make it a bad candidate for a coil.

  87. #6287
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    Quote Originally Posted by JimmyC View Post
    ...I love my Canfield Riot (outfitted with a DVO Diamond and Topaz) but I can definitely feel the weight on long and steep climbs in the Tahoe basin.
    I asked about the weight of their Rascal frame, when someone posted in here somewhere many months ago about their new Rascal frame, and concluded that the carbon Rascal frame is only like one pound lighter than an aluminum Riot frame.

  88. #6288
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Guy are there any actual Riot frame offerings? M size in search.
    Pinkbike checked already , thanks
    Piggybacking on that - I'm considering selling my large Riot frame as I've recently had an injury that will be keeping me off the bike for awhile. If anyone's interested feel free to send a PM for more info.

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    TY for offer, but L definitely oversize for me in a seattube.
    483mm is waaay to much. Will have downsize dropper to 100mm instead of 150, and will suffer on pumping and jumps.

  90. #6290
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    TY for offer, but L definitely oversize for me in a seattube.
    483mm is waaay to much. Will have downsize dropper to 100mm instead of 150, and will suffer on pumping and jumps.
    Yeah, the seat tube length is one of the metrics where the Riot is pretty behind the times. I've heard of people cutting it down 10mm or so, but even then it's still pretty long. Fortunately I find that the steep STA helps out with dropper fit (I manage a 150mm with plenty of clearence, even with my 5'9"/-5'10" frame on a large). That said, I certainly wouldn't be complaining if the ST was 440mm.

  91. #6291
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    On a large Riot, I'm 178cm tall and can fit a 150 One up v2 dropper with 8mm to spare so I guess it's depending on leg length (I don't have long legs) and dropper stack

  92. #6292
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    Keep in mind there is a difference in seat tube length between V1 Riots and V2 Riots.
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  93. #6293
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    I'm selling my 2017 size large with blue links...

    Carbon Reynolds wheels
    Carbon Deity Mohawk bars
    XT brakes
    XTR cassette
    140 Pike fork
    Mantitou Mcloed shock
    Sixc cranks
    Wolf Tooth oval 30

    $2950

    PM for pics

  94. #6294
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    Quote Originally Posted by TwoTone View Post
    Keep in mind there is a difference in seat tube length between V1 Riots and V2 Riots.
    Only mention v2 for sure. Can't find v1 geo, but it was on my test ride, l size. I had to put my chest to seat on descents

  95. #6295
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    Long shot, but anyone have green links they would sell or trade for blue?
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    Quote Originally Posted by javisst44 View Post
    On a large Riot, I'm 178cm tall and can fit a 150 One up v2 dropper with 8mm to spare so I guess it's depending on leg length (I don't have long legs) and dropper stack
    Would illustrate my opinion 2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-20190913_135930%7E2.jpg
    Blackmaret roam, M size.
    438 mm seattube, 350 bb height (bb drop not listed for older geo)

    Rf turbine dropper, 150mm.
    I have almost nothing more to insert.
    And with riot i assume i'll have about the same.

    And yeah, i'm 175 height.

  97. #6297
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Would illustrate my opinion
    Blackmaret roam, M size.
    438 mm seattube, 350 bb height (bb drop not listed for older geo)

    Rf turbine dropper, 150mm.
    I have almost nothing more to insert.
    And with riot i assume i'll have about the same.

    And yeah, i'm 175 height.
    Centerof BB to bottom of rails when post is extended?

  98. #6298
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    I got my new (to me) riot together. All parts from my Tallboy LTC were an easy swap. Two observations so far:

    1. Pedal bob is more than I expected. Shock moves about 12-15mm as I pedal. Iím using a OneUp cinch 30t oval if that matters. Would a round 30t reduce pedal Bob? Or is this normal? (Topaz Shock has 205psi for my 185 weight)

    2. Chainring clearance is very tight. I had to make a 1mm spacer to keep the ring from hitting the chainstay. Iím using a standard 6mm offset to keep the ~49mm chainline. Seems common to have tight clearance and shouldnít be a concern, right?
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    Tight is ok but quite normal to put a spacer on the bottom bracket.
    I have a 32 oval and felt the same, more pedal bob than expected but as soon as it's rooty and rocky it's not a thing you'll notice.
    Tried using the middle or firm setting when you pedal?

  100. #6300
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    Quote Originally Posted by javisst44 View Post
    Tight is ok but quite normal to put a spacer on the bottom bracket.
    I have a 32 oval and felt the same, more pedal bob than expected but as soon as it's rooty and rocky it's not a thing you'll notice.
    Tried using the middle or firm setting when you pedal?
    In the middle setting itís nit much different. Firm does help a good amount. It had just read so much about the anti-squat And pedaling performance I expected less bobbing. It will. not be noticed on rough terrain but does mean itís less efficient than it could be.
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  101. #6301
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    In the middle setting itís nit much different. Firm does help a good amount. It had just read so much about the anti-squat And pedaling performance I expected less bobbing. It will. not be noticed on rough terrain but does mean itís less efficient than it could be.
    How much sag and compression are you running? The Riot has 90-100% antisquat with a 30t ring. It is efficient while being active.

  102. #6302
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    How much sag and compression are you running? The Riot has 90-100% antisquat with a 30t ring. It is efficient while being active.
    25-30% Iíd estimate. I have not measured yet but feels right (how I set spring rate), I may add a bit more air after my first real ride. I suspect the riot will ride better with more air than my Tallboy. Then may need to add a spacer or two to dial sag to get the right geometry.

    Given CBF anti-squat is pretty constant through travel sag wont inherently matter provided the spring rate is correct.

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    One thing to note about the topaz - when the compression lever is set to full open the low speed compression circuit is bypassed and the shock has basically no LSC. With the lever in the middle position the high speed circuit remains the same, but the low speed circuit is used.

    I don't know why DVO has it valved like this, but I prefer to run the shock in the middle setting all the time. The LSC blows off during high speed hits resulting in basically the same performance as the open mode, while also resisting pedaling forces better.

    Setup can also make a large difference. I'm about your weight geared up - 200ish psi gets me about 25% or a little more sag with no bands in either air chamber. I would say fewer bands and higher pressure is better for minimizing pedal bob and providing more support. I also found running the bladder pressure higher increases firmness (I run about 185psi).

    More rebound will also help keep the shock higher in its travel. I've had a hard time finding info from others, but I personally have been running about 2-3 clicks off from full fast.

  104. #6304
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    Quote Originally Posted by javisst44 View Post
    Centerof BB to bottom of rails when post is extended?
    About 660mm center of bb to rails, post extended.
    Sorry, slowpoke is me sometimes

  105. #6305
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    I've had a few weeks with the bike. Rode it on local familiar trails and on some new stuff up in Lake Placid. This bike can handle anything I can throw at it. I quickly got used to the forward position of the steep seat tube angle. The pedal platform is not as firm as I expected from the anti-rise numbers, but it climbs great and thats what matters. I will add a shim to the Topaz's piggy pack shim stack to firm it up a bit more and that should get me the firmness I'm after in the "climb" position.

    I swapped the links for silver and serviced the bearings while I was at it. Its a very easy linkage to work on. SOOO much easier than my Tallboy and its blind bearings and collets. Super smooth operation and no binding when you tighten it all down. Much more lateral stiffness as well.

    I hope to have a 44mm offset Sapphire on the way (got in on the close-out just before DVO sold out...at least I hope so). I look forward to comparing the 51mm Diamond to the 44mm Sapphire (both set to 140mm travel).

    I'm impressed with this bike. For a 2017 it rides like many of the 2020 bikes. All it needs is a XXL with 500mm reach and it would be perfect. Its a bit short for an XL IMO, but still fits me well with a 60mm stem.
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  106. #6306
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    I hope to have a 44mm offset Sapphire on the way (got in on the close-out just before DVO sold out...at least I hope so). I look forward to comparing the 51mm Diamond to the 44mm Sapphire (both set to 140mm travel).
    Please return with your impressions then

  107. #6307
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    I've had a few weeks with the bike. Rode it on local familiar trails and on some new stuff up in Lake Placid. This bike can handle anything I can throw at it. I quickly got used to the forward position of the steep seat tube angle. The pedal platform is not as firm as I expected from the anti-rise numbers, but it climbs great and thats what matters. I will add a shim to the Topaz's piggy pack shim stack to firm it up a bit more and that should get me the firmness I'm after in the "climb" position.

    I swapped the links for silver and serviced the bearings while I was at it. Its a very easy linkage to work on. SOOO much easier than my Tallboy and its blind bearings and collets. Super smooth operation and no binding when you tighten it all down. Much more lateral stiffness as well.

    I hope to have a 44mm offset Sapphire on the way (got in on the close-out just before DVO sold out...at least I hope so). I look forward to comparing the 51mm Diamond to the 44mm Sapphire (both set to 140mm travel).

    I'm impressed with this bike. For a 2017 it rides like many of the 2020 bikes. All it needs is a XXL with 500mm reach and it would be perfect. Its a bit short for an XL IMO, but still fits me well with a 60mm stem.
    I'm on a 42į offset and love it. 51į always felt wandery and easily knocked off course. Shorter offset feels dead set where I point it and has better traction.

    I feel a bit of a "platform" with a 28t chain ring. But with a 30t it peddles through chunk without hanging up and still feels like all my efforts move the bike forward.

  108. #6308
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    Gentlemen, who runs boost hubs rear: do you compensate chainline change? For example with 3mm offset chainrings instead of standard 6mm, meaning sram/canfield cranks.
    Thanks!

  109. #6309
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Gentlemen, who runs boost hubs rear: do you compensate chainline change? For example with 3mm offset chainrings instead of standard 6mm, meaning sram/canfield cranks.
    Thanks!
    I had to use a boost carrier (oneup switch) even with 142/standard hub. Oneup switch carrier has a bit more material at the bolt and it can rub ever so slightly on the chainstay.

    If your current ring works Iíd expect the boost to be fine too. I donít imagine you get much flex there and itís only 3mm at the axel. If you are switching cranks and rings it may be different. Seems the stays are wider than most.

  110. #6310
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Gentlemen, who runs boost hubs rear: do you compensate chainline change? For example with 3mm offset chainrings instead of standard 6mm, meaning sram/canfield cranks.
    Thanks!
    I've been using a standard offset Absolute Black 30t oval chainring with boost hubs for over a year with no problems. No unusual wear or shifting that I've noticed.

    Sent from my Pixel XL using Tapatalk

  111. #6311
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Please return with your impressions then
    Went for my first ride on my usual spot with a bit of everything from technical climbs to fast corners with berms.

    The short version: the differences are subtle, but make everything feel better. I didn't notice a single time I preferred the 51mm offset, but several times I did notice the 44mm felt right.

    Granted, this is just one ride on a brand new fork compared to an older fork due for service. However I was focussing on the handling feel and not the way the suspension actually feels (both very good).

    A few examples of where 44mm was better:
    Fast uphill switchbacks. There is one in particular that isn't too steep and has a wider diameter so you can pedal faster in it than most switchbacks. With the 51mm Diamond I could make the corner fairly fast, but after exiting the apex it felt like I was falling inside and had to check my balance and bike position. It also felt or could have been oversteer at that point in the corner. With the 44mm Sapphire I could carry the same speed and take the same tighter line, but didn't have the tippy feeling exiting the Apex and it was much easier to pedal out and stay on line.

    Tight Berms were also much more comfortable. Some of the berms are big and tight, so it was always a bit awkward for me (admittedly not a great berm rider) on my XL bikes. They felt different enough that a few times I had a terrible exit line and speed. Other times with good form it really felt better and the bike did what it should. Despite my few really bad/slow corners I set a PR on this section.

    Fast flowy trails is where it really felt right. Not hugely different. It just seemed to take away the nervousness that was left in the bike. The slight twitch or moment of vagueness that would be felt in small quick steering input. particularly in fast chunky stuff. It felt like it tracked better.

    Across the board it felt best when you lean vs turn the bars. Lean the bike in corners and it just feels so good and right. I'm sold on 44mm offset fo 29" for sure.

    FYI...DVO has the D1 Sapphire in Blue for $599 on clearance. Not as good as my $399 in black
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  112. #6312
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    Topaz users, what are your settings?

    I'm running 230lbs in the main can, 180lbs in the reservoir, 0 clicks rebound damping, two bands in positive (don't need those, too progressive but still experimenting).

    I'm 190-195 geared up. I was running 200-210lbs in the main can but it was getting hung up on bumps. Seemed to go into the mid stroke too soon. Going to 230 made it feel much better in the small mid size stuff as it rode higher in the travel.

    I'm got to experiment with negative bands to reduce how progressive the shock is and improve mid stroke support. That may let me dial the main air can pressure down to 220ish.
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  113. #6313
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    I'm about 25-30lbs less than you and running 205-207psi in the can and 190 in the reservoir, with two bands in the positive. Not sure about rebound, but it's pretty fast. This setup seems just about perfect for the riot. For reference, I was running a ribbon coil, medium spring, and 5 clicks out from full ramp control, and 17 clicks out from full on rebound. Note I'm also running cushcore front and rear, with seems to enable a faster/stiffer suspension setup.

  114. #6314
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    Where would you guys value a rear triangle for the Riot? I've got an extra black rear triangle, links, and derailleur hangers I've been thinking about selling. Since new pricing for rear triangles is non-existent, I'm having a hard time deciding on a reasonable price.

  115. #6315
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phoenix864 View Post
    Where would you guys value a rear triangle for the Riot? I've got an extra black rear triangle, links, and derailleur hangers I've been thinking about selling. Since new pricing for rear triangles is non-existent, I'm having a hard time deciding on a reasonable price.
    I got my full frame for $800. It depends on how badly someone wants/needs it. I'd be interested in it but not for what someone with a broken rear triangle would pay.
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  116. #6316
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    Got my own lego recently.
    Gonna blow the hivemind during assembly
    2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-20191020_232953%7E2.jpg

    1st of all, gentlemen, what's torque specs for suspension pivots? And for nds axle bolt?
    2nd, how long the bearings does sustain usually? Mine seems to have 6 of 8 below acceptable condition, it's quite normal for used frame, so i just want to look further.

    Thanks!

  117. #6317
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Got my own lego recently.
    Gonna blow the hivemind during assembly
    Click image for larger version. 

Name:	20191020_232953~2.jpg 
Views:	27 
Size:	230.2 KB 
ID:	1287639

    1st of all, gentlemen, what's torque specs for suspension pivots? And for nds axle bolt?
    2nd, how long the bearings does sustain usually? Mine seems to have 6 of 8 below acceptable condition, it's quite normal for used frame, so i just want to look further.

    Thanks!
    The links/pivot bolts donít side load the bearings. They have sleeves that make it a snug press fit. I found here the correct torque is hand tight. Youíll feel it snug up and that abiut all you need. Definitely a lot easier than the VPP systems where you need to balance torque vs play n the links vs tight bearings.
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  118. #6318
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    Quote Originally Posted by Doug View Post
    The links/pivot bolts donít side load the bearings. They have sleeves that make it a snug press fit. I found here the correct torque is hand tight. Youíll feel it snug up and that abiut all you need. Definitely a lot easier than the VPP systems where you need to balance torque vs play n the links vs tight bearings.
    This is correct. As for the bearings it depends on how well you take care of them. I got 3 seasons out of mine. But I grease and rotate them (they never make a full circle in the movement so you should spin them so all are getting equal load time) I don't was my bike often mostly use a brush to clean it and wipe it down anytime I disassemble it. IF you don't want to go through all this you will have to change them more often.

  119. #6319
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    I grease and rotate them (they never make a full circle in the movement so you should spin them so all are getting equal load time)
    Do you mean you extract these to turn outer race, or just turning the inner race of bearings?

    Had assembled a frame yesterday and found that actual turn angle in rear lower joint (where the most worn bearings placed) is very small, and haven't feel any issues while operating the suspension by hand.
    So i actually prone to clean and regrease these old ones, and give it a try .

  120. #6320
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Do you mean you extract these to turn outer race, or just turning the inner race of bearings?

    Had assembled a frame yesterday and found that actual turn angle in rear lower joint (where the most worn bearings placed) is very small, and haven't feel any issues while operating the suspension by hand.
    So i actually prone to clean and regrease these old ones, and give it a try .
    I keep them In place and turn the inner race.

  121. #6321
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Do you mean you extract these to turn outer race, or just turning the inner race of bearings?
    No need to take them out. You only need to rotate them a bit so the load is on a new set of balls in the bearing.

    A good trick I'm going to use is one taken from my baseball/softball days. The modern bats need to have equal use all around. Each hit you rotate the bat 1/4 turn. Some even have numbers printed so you can do this with even greater precision. The idea being this evens the load on the bat so one spot isn't getting prematurely worn while the rest of the bat is nearly new.

    Same idea with these bearings. I'm going to (try) and mark them somehow (marker, note lettering position on bearing seal, other?) so I can be sure to rotate them around and spread the load. Otherwise I might rotate them 360 degrees...180 degrees each time and not even out the load despite spinning them.

    Also, another tip is to put helicopter tape on them. I've yet to try this but should work. It helps seal them from dirt and water. I imagine you cut circles that fit the bearing size. Some swear it helps bearings last years, if you can manage to get the shape close. If anyone has any ideas on how to cut the outer and inner circles...let me know.
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  122. #6322
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    Helicopter tape is a neat idea. I pop the seals and regrease the bearings then put a layer of grease outside the seals when I'm done to act as a barrier.

  123. #6323
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cerberus75 View Post
    Helicopter tape is a neat idea. I pop the seals and regrease the bearings then put a layer of grease outside the seals when I'm done to act as a barrier.
    Me too. I also rarely wash my bike. Santa Cruz did a study of bearing claims and found washing your bike often is the fastest way to kill your bearings. Wash it when its really needed, be careful about pivots, and periodic service is the recipe for getting years out of pivot bearings.
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  124. #6324
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    Are those bolu bearings have ball divider inside, or these are filled with balls completely, like enduro maxx bearings?
    Haven't popped it yet. Even found a thread over the bolu, while there's no mention over my question.

  125. #6325
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    Quote Originally Posted by Logoffski View Post
    Are those bolu bearings have ball divider inside, or these are filled with balls completely, like enduro maxx bearings?
    Haven't popped it yet. Even found a thread over the bolu, while there's no mention over my question.
    change them in my bike damage 2 sets of hardwares and the coil in ther rear bolt!
    enduro max bo or anything good bearings!


    I have a question here in group
    anyone installed 1x12 slx or xt any problems or its full compatible!

    I got new wheels setup I had ztr flow ex woth novateks hubs and now
    spank 345 oozy trail with 350hubs!!
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-74348432_749693728828373_2200161056813219840_n.jpg  


  126. #6326
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    change them in my bike damage 2 sets of hardwares and the coil in ther rear bolt!
    enduro max bo or anything good bearings!


    I have a question here in group
    anyone installed 1x12 slx or xt any problems or its full compatible!

    I got new wheels setup I had ztr flow ex woth novateks hubs and now
    spank 345 oozy trail with 350hubs!!
    I mean, just like any other boost or non-boost bike the Riot will work fine with 12 speed stuff. People have been running SRAM 12 speed on the Riot for years, I can't think of any reason why Shimano's 12 speed drivetrains wouldn't work.

  127. #6327
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    change them in my bike damage 2 sets of hardwares and the coil in ther rear bolt!
    enduro max bo or anything good bearings!
    well...
    Recently had checked it.
    6 of those are good enough, just popped and closed again.
    2 suspicious was really bad, so was cleaned and re-greased with marine lube, hope it will run for a bit more.

    Towards the bearing choice: afaik (rumors maybe), SKF produces those bearings, Enduro is only a brandname seller for margin ^_^.

    Had found twice as cheap substitution on aliexpress, with no divider inside. Roughly 25$ for a set of 10. Gonna give it a try.

  128. #6328
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    Quote Originally Posted by Darksoul View Post
    I got new wheels setup I had ztr flow ex woth novateks hubs and now
    spank 345 oozy trail with 350hubs!!
    yeah, building the same rims, with nukeproof horison hubs (which are actually Novatec xd642sb-a rear and 641 front)

  129. #6329
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    Completely random, but I was just watching a commercial for Royale (a household paper product company in Canada) and as they're going through the house (different products for different parts of the house) there is definitely a raw Riot in the garage. Ha ha.

    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails 2015 Canfield Brothers Riot 29er FS-19_1014_198_010_g_royale_tigertowelontable_new.jpg  


  130. #6330
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    Quote Originally Posted by saskskier View Post
    Completely random, but I was just watching a commercial for Royale (a household paper product company in Canada) and as they're going through the house (different products for different parts of the house) there is definitely a raw Riot in the garage. Ha ha.


    Funny! Thanks for posting. What a funny sequence of events that had to occur for a Riot to end up in a TV commercial

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