Ibis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?- Mtbr.com
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    Ibis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?

    Here it is! Not the first to market but a special one indeed in this crazy competitive arena.

    My two takeaways after riding it the last couple weeks:

    "The Ripmo not only allows me to use a 170mm dropper post for my 5í7Ē stature, it allows me to go even longer. I can now choose a dropper post length based on my preference, not what the bike will allow. "

    "With its combination its combination of long reach, steep seat angle and dw-link geometry, the Ripmo delivers two bikes in one. Itís a bike that can descend with authority and one thatís not afraid to climb. "



    Ibis Ripmo first look - Mtbr.com

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    Comparisons with the Hightower LT?

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    Quote Originally Posted by 5k bike 50cent legs View Post
    Comparisons with the Hightower LT?
    It one-ups it since it has late mover advantage. The Hightower LT was my favorite bike for riding around here since it is agile and capable.

    Ripmo is slacker and more rowdy ready. It is longer in reach and is thus more stable and roomy plus allowing shorter stems. Seat angle is steeper at 76 degrees so front is more planted on steep tech climbs. X2 rear shock is good and 2.6 tires room too. Rear Aggressor tire is so awesome for here since not as slow as Minion DHR.

    Suspension is dw-link awesome and seems to stiffen up when post is up since steep seat angle unweights the rear. Allowing 180+mm dropper post length for my height is tits.
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    Looks pretty awe inspiring! Will have to demo as soon as I can. Also, plenty of room for a water bottle.

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    Lot's of Ibis riders have been waiting for this. Ripley rider here... may need to check this one out.

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    wow, looks rad! Hitting some numbers too, think it's in the right spot.

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    i have a video I'll release today talking about all the details.

    Oh dammit. Problem. And it's not the pedal hitting the ground.

    Ibis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?-img_5090.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by 5k bike 50cent legs View Post
    Looks pretty awe inspiring! Will have to demo as soon as I can. Also, plenty of room for a water bottle.
    So when I rode, I was expecting incredible descending on the most tech trails that I ride around here. And it delivered that and it felt like a meeting an old friend for the first time.

    What surprised me was when I rode Fremont Older. My local trail optimized for road bikes. The Ripmo delivered. I did all my climbs without getting upset and I pumped terrain like no other. That surprised me.
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    ^ pedal strike city! the lls bikes do that these days....

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    This is making me rethink my plan for replacing my Ripley LS with a Wreckoning... need to find out which climbs better.

    Too early but if anyone can compare (wreckoning vs. Ripmo), please share! Thanks.

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    Did the tire rub with the seat that low?

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    i have a video I'll release today talking about all the details.

    Oh dammit. Problem. And it's not the pedal hitting the ground.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    Those are 2.4s?

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    Quote Originally Posted by IAmHolland View Post
    ^ pedal strike city! the lls bikes do that these days....
    So when one bottoms outs out like that, that's actually pretty rare since the suspension is so good and heavily supported. But if one cases the 40 foot huck to flat, level those pedals.

    The bigger issue with pedal strikes is striking rocks and roots on tech climbs. The Ripmo puts the bb height as low as possible like a lot of West Coast bikes.

    This bike does good though because it sits higher on its travel at sag and under full power. it doesn't sink. The FSR bikes have a tendency to do that. So this and the Pivot Switchblade actually do well on tech climbs.

    There is that other issue though at full compression and the dropper.
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    Quote Originally Posted by B1KER View Post
    That other (blue) color doesn't look as good as it does in that link. That's studio lighting and even looks touched up beyond that. The Black with an X2 looks 10X better IMO.
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    There is that other issue though at full compression and the dropper.
    That seems like a rather large issue?!

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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn View Post
    That seems like a rather large issue?!
    It's not bad. I'm 5'7" and was perfectly fine with a 170mm dropper.

    I had visions of a 200mm dropper but that will be a problem.
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    Quote Originally Posted by k2rider1964 View Post
    That other (blue) color doesn't look as good as it does in that link. That's studio lighting and even looks touched up beyond that. The Black with an X2 looks 10X better IMO.
    Agree. The murdered out black with X2 to me is the bee's knees. Looks like my black Ripley on steroids.

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    Quote Originally Posted by IAmHolland View Post
    ^ pedal strike city! the lls bikes do that these days....
    I don't have any issues with pedal strikes on my Rip LS (as long as the shock is set up right). Looks like an interesting bike--but I'm waiting for their new hardtail to drop.
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    i have a video I'll release today talking about all the details.

    Oh dammit. Problem. And it's not the pedal hitting the ground.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    What version of Fox fork is that with silver stanchion? Or is that an artifact of some camera filter (I see the Maxxis logos are also neither yellow nor white).

    I have been doing a bit of new frame comparisons, and damn if this doesn't look really, really attractive. I'm really pleased to see Ibis addressing the standover/reach issue... I've had issues with their bikes before where my short legs conflicted with my long arms (standover vs. reach). I've had bike shop guys flat out tell me, "you can't ride 29ers because your legs are too short." But if Roxy Lo can at 5'1", I sure as hell can at 5'8" w/ 30" inseam.

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    My wife is making me wait until I actually demo it, otherwise I'd already have one on order.

    But do I wait till Sea Otter, or go to Sunshine this weekend?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtvert View Post
    I don't have any issues with pedal strikes on my Rip LS (as long as the shock is set up right). Looks like an interesting bike--but I'm waiting for their new hardtail to drop.
    That's good to hear. I strike often on my SC bikes, and they aren't exactly what I would call LLS, more moderate. I even strike at the Gap....climbing, hardly strike descending. Everyone tells me Ibis rides high, never rode one, but my SC bikes "blow through" the mid-stroke quite easily.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    What version of Fox fork is that with silver stanchion? Or is that an artifact of some camera filter (I see the Maxxis logos are also neither yellow nor white).

    I have been doing a bit of new frame comparisons, and damn if this doesn't look really, really attractive. I'm really pleased to see Ibis addressing the standover/reach issue... I've had issues with their bikes before where my short legs conflicted with my long arms (standover vs. reach). I've had bike shop guys flat out tell me, "you can't ride 29ers because your legs are too short." But if Roxy Lo can at 5'1", I sure as hell can at 5'8" w/ 30" inseam.
    I filtered this photo to mostly black and white.
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    It's not bad. I'm 5'7" and was perfectly fine with a 170mm dropper.

    I had visions of a 200mm dropper but that will be a problem.
    Ah, I understand now. They've made room lots of seat tube room for even longer droppers, but anything more than the stock dropper length may be an issue depending on your saddle height

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    Quote Originally Posted by HrznRider View Post
    This is making me rethink my plan for replacing my Ripley LS with a Wreckoning... need to find out which climbs better.

    Too early but if anyone can compare (wreckoning vs. Ripmo), please share! Thanks.
    They climb very similarly but the edge goes to the Ripmo.

    They both seem to get firm when the seatpost is up and the weight is shifted forward. So at the wide open position, they're very efficient. When seat is dropped, they're quite active.

    They Ripmo has a firm anti-squat so it climbs like a dream. It wasn't as plush like a Trek Slash 29er when I rode it so I have to play with my rear shock now.

    The Ripmo is lighter than the Wreckoning with the frame about a pound lighter. It also allows longer droppers and allows a tire up to 2.6 compared to 2.4 on the Wreck.

    Travel on the Wreck is higher at 160mm vs. 145.
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    ^ 29.x lbs with carbon hoops or alloy?

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianjerkey View Post
    My wife is making me wait until I actually demo it, otherwise I'd already have one on order.

    But do I wait till Sea Otter, or go to Sunshine this weekend?
    Does sunshine have them to demo yet? I know that their going to have a full demo fleet the last weekend of April

    Man, that seat tube angle has me thinking about switching over from my Hightower already

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    https://www.sunshinebicycle.com/prod...s-ripmo-medium

    "Learn more about Ibis Ripmo and demo/rent one from Sunshine today."

  29. #29
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    Quote Originally Posted by IAmHolland View Post
    ^ 29.x lbs with carbon hoops or alloy?
    Carbon with the big pedals, 2.5 tires and heavy X2 rear shock
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    Quote Originally Posted by boomn View Post
    Ah, I understand now. They've made room lots of seat tube room for even longer droppers, but anything more than the stock dropper length may be an issue depending on your saddle height
    Correct. They've done what is humanly possible with the frame. But the 29er size wheel, that travel and shorter riders will smack ballz at some point.
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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianjerkey View Post
    My wife is making me wait until I actually demo it, otherwise I'd already have one on order.

    But do I wait till Sea Otter, or go to Sunshine this weekend?
    What does she have to do with it?

    Remember... no paper trail. It's a good bike. Twust me bwo.

    It actually depends what you've ridden before and what you're looking for. If you like long, slack, rowdy, travel, roomy, dropper, climbs, it's good.
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    What does she have to do with it?

    Remember... no paper trail. It's a good bike. Twust me bwo.

    It actually depends what you've ridden before and what you're looking for. If you like long, slack, rowdy, travel, roomy, dropper, climbs, it's good.
    Something something finances something...

    Currently on an HD3, with a YT Tues as my DH. The HD3 is a lot of fun, but I've had to jam my shock full of volume spacers to keep it from bottoming at Pacifica and other rowdier trails. I'm thinking the Ripmo would do well to cover the ground the YT doesn't, while not being so completely different jumping between the two (HD3 to Tues feels super slack). Plus I've been feeling more and more cramped on the Med HD3 the more I get in my own head reading articles on longer and slackerrrrrrrr.

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    . Itís ready to take on Whistler, conquer a long, epic ride, putter around at a local trail or even do some laps at the pump track on the way home.
    Since the "ride impressions" article is yet to come, is this a description from Ibis?

    Is a statement like this claiming that a LT 29er is a good contender for the fabled one bike quiver, or just saying you can get the bike through these situations if you want to... and you might enjoy it if you like the handling characteristics of bikes in this class?

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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtvert View Post
    --but I'm waiting for their new hardtail to drop.
    +1
    :-)

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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    i have a video I'll release today talking about all the details.

    Oh dammit. Problem. And it's not the pedal hitting the ground.

    Click image for larger version. 

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    It is gonna be fun when the tire hits your seat off a big drop. Yikes!
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    Looks great!
    For the pedal strike crowd I put 165mm Race face cranks on my Hightower LT after reading an article about how the power is minimally affected and maybe even optimized. Life changing, Iím a good technical rider and know how to ratchet and time my strokes but now I can just focus on the terrain, eliminated 99% of strikes. Life changing.
    Last edited by Dpca10; 03-27-2018 at 04:09 AM.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dpca10 View Post
    Looks great. Chainstays are back to bring real long again 17.5 and are 41mm offset 29er forks easily available for those of us who want to build up frames?

    For the pedal strike crowd I put 165mm Race face cranks on my Hightower LT after reading an article about how the power is minimally affected and maybe even optimized. Life changing, Iím a good technical rider and know how to ratchet and time my strokes but now I can just focus on the terrain, eliminated 99% of strikes. Life changing.
    435mm = 17.1"

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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    They climb very similarly but the edge goes to the Ripmo.

    They both seem to get firm when the seatpost is up and the weight is shifted forward. So at the wide open position, they're very efficient. When seat is dropped, they're quite active.

    They Ripmo has a firm anti-squat so it climbs like a dream. It wasn't as plush like a Trek Slash 29er when I rode it so I have to play with my rear shock now.

    The Ripmo is lighter than the Wreckoning with the frame about a pound lighter. It also allows longer droppers and allows a tire up to 2.6 compared to 2.4 on the Wreck.

    Travel on the Wreck is higher at 160mm vs. 145.
    Thanks for the comparo fc. Lots of good points. Another minor plus is that the Ripmo's rear suspension is easier to clean than the delta linkage. =)

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    Quote Originally Posted by HrznRider View Post
    Thanks for the comparo fc. Lots of good points. Another minor plus is that the Ripmo's rear suspension is easier to clean than the delta linkage. =)
    For sure. I have a delta linkage bike in matte paint and it doesn't clean at all.

    More tire clearance means more room and stays cleaner for the same 2.4 tire. Also the new Ibis has a new linkage where dirt doesn't get trapped easily anymore since there's a pass-thru hole now.
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skeggs1993 View Post
    Since the "ride impressions" article is yet to come, is this a description from Ibis?

    Is a statement like this claiming that a LT 29er is a good contender for the fabled one bike quiver, or just saying you can get the bike through these situations if you want to... and you might enjoy it if you like the handling characteristics of bikes in this class?
    No, that's me. I have three rides on it. and it's very good. I'm a big fan of this bike and might prefer it to the YT Capra 29er now.

    Long travel 29ers are great one-bikes for folks who want to progress and get rowdy who seek out aggressive terrain and road trips in unknown lands.

    It gives the user a lot of room to improve and progress. And when one messes up, runs out of talent or is having an off-day, the bike can make a save.

    The big downside has been weight and pedaling efficiency. But with 28 lb bikes that pedal very well on these big wheels, it's not too bad.

    Price is still a sticking point but a $5k Capra these days is a better, less painful option than the $10k Sworks bikes of a few years ago.
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    Still waiting to see what Pivot does with the Mach 429 trail since my Mach 6 Carbon is on perma-back order.
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    My bike still feels new but these other bikes make me drool...,.

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    Don't know if it's officially been given the OK, but looks like Lopes is running a coil on his:

    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bgyz5kJj...-by=brianlopes
    Ibis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?-ripmo_coil.jpg

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    So sick.

    DW link is the stiffest linkage platform Iíve ever been on. So not surprised about the climbing.

    When I was getting my first ďrealĒ bike a few years ago I was so close to getting an HD3, but they ran too small. I have a soft spot for Ibis though and it looks like theyíve lengthened it out. Too bad I just got a new frame in August.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Finch Platte View Post
    Only 1 left in my size!

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    Not a huge IBIS fan but nice to see another long travel 29er with attention to detail. I'm a Santa Cruz guy but love to see other options and I love that you can go so many directions with builds for your own individual preferences and of course have a water bottle cage.

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    nice early reports - debating whether to get into the long queues at an upcoming demo day.

    FC -any opinion on if the sizing is similar to the Ripley LS? Con"LSsensus is to size up on the Ripley and even though this seems more "LS", Ibis is still recommending a Large for 5'9" and up.

    Currently on a 6-yr old Tallboy LTc and trying to decide whether to replace with Ripley or Ripmo...

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    Quote Originally Posted by HrznRider View Post
    Thanks for the comparo fc. Lots of good points. Another minor plus is that the Ripmo's rear suspension is easier to clean than the delta linkage. =)
    haven't ridden the Ripmo, but yeah, the rear is a pain to clean on the Wreck. a 200mm post is no problem on either (if you are taller than 5'8" ), but the 34.9 post limits your options. This ripmo seems more like the sports car, and the wreck is the monster truck.

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    Quote Originally Posted by doctapow View Post
    nice early reports - debating whether to get into the long queues at an upcoming demo day.

    FC -any opinion on if the sizing is similar to the Ripley LS? Con"LSsensus is to size up on the Ripley and even though this seems more "LS", Ibis is still recommending a Large for 5'9" and up.

    Currently on a 6-yr old Tallboy LTc and trying to decide whether to replace with Ripley or Ripmo...
    I think sizing will be the same. BUT, these bikes are very long now and the rider has to change. I'm a medium on most bikes and I'm a medium on the Ripmo but the the reach is 443mm on the Ripmo compared to 411mm on the Ripley LS.

    It is crazy different that is countered by a steep seat angle, stubby stem and wide bars.
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  51. #51
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    Quote Originally Posted by grrrah View Post
    This ripmo seems more like the sports car, and the wreck is the monster truck.
    Not quite like that. Ripmo is longer and slacker and has the burly X2 shock. The Ripmo might win a DH race between the two.

    They're both big time descenders are pretty agile. And they both seem to stiffen up for climbing when the saddle is up. Ripmo has better dropper options, tire clearance and seat angle. Lighter too. Both have low CG frames and the Wreck may have the edge.
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    How is the current DW-link over really fast chatter? When I had my HDR, I found that the same traits that made it a good climber made it pretty harsh over chatter. I realize shocks have progressed a lot since then, and having a shock as adjustable as the X2 helps, but in comparison VPP with a coil just seems velcro'd to the ground.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Andeh View Post
    How is the current DW-link over really fast chatter? When I had my HDR, I found that the same traits that made it a good climber made it pretty harsh over chatter. I realize shocks have progressed a lot since then, and having a shock as adjustable as the X2 helps, but in comparison VPP with a coil just seems velcro'd to the ground.
    Do you hammer over chatter or do you coast over it? Definitely, if you are hammering you will fell with anti-squat in pedal kickback. But if you coast or provide minimal input- it's smooth.

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    Too bad they spec the KS dropper on lower priced builds. Also what's the weight on GX eagle build?

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    Quote Originally Posted by smoothmoose View Post
    Do you hammer over chatter or do you coast over it? Definitely, if you are hammering you will fell with anti-squat in pedal kickback. But if you coast or provide minimal input- it's smooth.
    Interesting. Very good comment.
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    There you are future next bike!
    Keep pedaling no matter what

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    Next year's Santa Cruz spotted testing in Demo:

    Ibis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?-monster-jam-a3729feb51.jpg

  58. #58
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    good companyIbis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?-screen-shot-2018-03-27-11.50.10-am.jpg
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    good companyClick image for larger version. 

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    That's the fanciest inside of a garage door that I've ever seen.

    What's the rundown on that?

  60. #60
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    This is time of the long travel 29ers. I bet a lot of 29 naysayers will be changing their tune for 29ers. Haha.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    They climb very similarly but the edge goes to the Ripmo.

    They both seem to get firm when the seatpost is up and the weight is shifted forward. So at the wide open position, they're very efficient. When seat is dropped, they're quite active.

    They Ripmo has a firm anti-squat so it climbs like a dream. It wasn't as plush like a Trek Slash 29er when I rode it so I have to play with my rear shock now.

    The Ripmo is lighter than the Wreckoning with the frame about a pound lighter. It also allows longer droppers and allows a tire up to 2.6 compared to 2.4 on the Wreck.

    Travel on the Wreck is higher at 160mm vs. 145.
    Since you mention the Slash, any other thoughts on how these compare?

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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    They climb very similarly but the edge goes to the Ripmo.

    They both seem to get firm when the seatpost is up and the weight is shifted forward. So at the wide open position, they're very efficient. When seat is dropped, they're quite active.

    They Ripmo has a firm anti-squat so it climbs like a dream. It wasn't as plush like a Trek Slash 29er when I rode it so I have to play with my rear shock now.

    The Ripmo is lighter than the Wreckoning with the frame about a pound lighter. It also allows longer droppers and allows a tire up to 2.6 compared to 2.4 on the Wreck.

    Travel on the Wreck is higher at 160mm vs. 145.
    Since you mention the Slash, any other thoughts on how these compare?

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    Quote Originally Posted by k2rider1964 View Post
    That other (blue) color doesn't look as good as it does in that link. That's studio lighting and even looks touched up beyond that. The Black with an X2 looks 10X better IMO.
    I like it in black as well, reminds me of my black HD3. Anyone know if the black has the same flat black look or is a combo of flat/shiny like the HD4 ?

    BTW never seen this many post by fc in one thread, he must be really stoked!

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by tswitz1234 View Post
    Since you mention the Slash, any other thoughts on how these compare?
    The Slash is great bike since it's very light and active with huge useable travel.

    Suspension on the Slash is more active and supple. Slash doesn't climb as well as a result. Top tube on Slash is too short. The seat tube on the Slash is the killer for me as I can only put a 125mm dropper. On the Ripmo, I can put a 180mm dropper.
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    Here is the the double scoop cone:
    Ibis Ripmo video and Q&A - Mtbr.com
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    The Slash is great bike since it's very light and active with huge useable travel.

    Suspension on the Slash is more active and supple. Slash doesn't climb as well as a result. Top tube on Slash is too short. The seat tube on the Slash is the killer for me as I can only put a 125mm dropper. On the Ripmo, I can put a 180mm dropper.
    Thanks, gonna try them both. I'm all of 5'7" with a 30" inseam too, so having that low dropper may be the thing that seals it for me.

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    I just rode the Ripmo in the ABS lot. Canít tell much but ran it over some bumps hard turns and carves. This was after a trail ride on the Hightower LT. Riding them back to back Iíd say they feel pretty darn similar. Even though the wb is longer on the Ripmo it felt smaller, or at least the front tire felt closer and steeper. The ripmo felt like it had a slight bit more pep starting from dead stop but my Hightowerís tires were covered in mud. Not that I need a new bike but I was intreagued enough to want to get on a trail demo ASAP, especially something with flow and jumps. Iíd love Fcís take on the two bikes, specifically efficiency climbing and plushness. If not Iíll do it at some pount

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    Does it feel like you're kicking behind you when you pedal in the flats? I feel like there has to be some consequence of such a steep STA.

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    Quote Originally Posted by SikeMo View Post
    Does it feel like you're kicking behind you when you pedal in the flats? I feel like there has to be some consequence of such a steep STA.
    It feels good actually. I think there's three things at play.

    1) When the bike is tilted up, climbing a hill, the knee actually falls behind the pedal a the three o'clock position. The plumb line drop is done on level ground and it's actually not a good fit when climbing.

    2) On flats it usually not necessary to pedal with the ball of the foot at the spindle. A more centered location on the shoe works.

    3) When the knee is ahead of the spindle, it seems like not just the quads are firing but some glutes as well. Maybe takes some getting used to and some muscle build-up but it feels good and comfortable.
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    Everybody understand what Effective Seat Angle really is and why it screws taller riders relative to Actual Seat Angle? Very hard concept to understand.

    Everyone understand exactly what Reach is and the difference from Top Tube Length?
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    Everybody understand what Effective Seat Angle really is and why it screws taller riders relative to Actual Seat Angle? Very hard concept to understand.

    Everyone understand exactly what Reach is and the difference from Top Tube Length?
    Donít know and donít really care. Get me the bike that gets me from point A to point B the fastest. To me, this bike looks like the perfect Enduro weapon.

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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    2) On flats it usually not necessary to pedal with the ball of the foot at the spindle. A more centered location on the shoe works.
    This is the piece I was looking for. I switched to flats back in August. Your foot needs to move around the pedal, based on terrain. I move my feet around all the time now and love it. Went back to clipless for one ride recently, out of curiosity, and hated it. I've also got duck feet and I never realized how much clipless was leading to knee pain as a result.

    As far as the other geo stuff goes, if you keep ETT roughly the same (or slightly larger for short stems and longer wheelbase) for sizing, then steeper STA -> longer reach. Also need steeper STA with the shorter chainstays now on most bikes to keep your arse forward of the rear wheel.

    Sorry for the thread drift. I am just trying to figure out the logic of these changes in trend and why my current bikes are no longer cool.

  73. #73
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    Quote Originally Posted by RBoardman View Post
    Donít know and donít really care. Get me the bike that gets me from point A to point B the fastest. To me, this bike looks like the perfect Enduro weapon.
    ok.
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    Who's going to be the next company to build a bike in this category? (Steep STA, 140 travel, long reach)

    So far: Guerilla Gravity Smash, Transition Sentinel, Ibis Ripmo, ???? Maybe the Specialized Stumpjumper. I like where bikes are going. It seems like there have been a few longer travel bikes doing this for a couple years now, glad it's trickling down to the mid travel range.
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    FC, how did this compare to the YT capra 29er?

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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    It feels good actually. I think there's three things at play.

    1) When the bike is tilted up, climbing a hill, the knee actually falls behind the pedal a the three o'clock position. The plumb line drop is done on level ground and it's actually not a good fit when climbing.

    2) On flats it usually not necessary to pedal with the ball of the foot at the spindle. A more centered location on the shoe works.

    3) When the knee is ahead of the spindle, it seems like not just the quads are firing but some glutes as well. Maybe takes some getting used to and some muscle build-up but it feels good and comfortable.
    This is all true...and more so when riding flats. Those who find that only their quads are sore after a hard/long ride, should consider their riding position, pedal/shoe choice, and maybe some time at the gym squatting and deadlift as well. You really should be activating your quads, hams, and glutes to maximize power and endurance.

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianjerkey View Post
    Don't know if it's officially been given the OK, but looks like Lopes is running a coil on his:

    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bgyz5kJj...-by=brianlopes
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    I thought he was still riding for Ellsworth????
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post

    2) On flats it usually not necessary to pedal with the ball of the foot at the spindle. A more centered location on the shoe works.

    3) When the knee is ahead of the spindle, it seems like not just the quads are firing but some glutes as well. Maybe takes some getting used to and some muscle build-up but it feels good and comfortable.
    Rationalizing the Ibis marketing much? Wouldn't this go against everything that we "know" about pedaling a bike and proper bike fit as it relates to pedaling. I can understand how in a sagged uphill position the geometry of the bike changes and so your knee would be in the right position but on flats, I would assume that the "sound" riding position is still the one where the knee is not ahead of the spindle.

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    Ibis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?

    Quote Originally Posted by sfmtber View Post
    Rationalizing the Ibis marketing much? Wouldn't this go against everything that we "know" about pedaling a bike and proper bike fit as it relates to pedaling. I can understand how in a sagged uphill position the geometry of the bike changes and so your knee would be in the right position but on flats, I would assume that the "sound" riding position is still the one where the knee is not ahead of the spindle.
    Open for discussion for sure. I had a Pivot Mach 4 before that I loved but simply could not pedal well. Now, all the bikes I prefer have steeper seat angles to work with dropper posts. It has been a tool for countering much slacker head angles and longer top tubes than a few years ago.

    What it does for pedaling fit.... open issue for sure.
    Last edited by fc; 03-28-2018 at 02:30 PM.
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    Open for discussion for sure. I had a Pivot Mach 5 before that I loved but simply could not pedal well. Now, all the bikes I prefer have steeper seat angles to work with dropper posts. It has been a tool for countering much slacker head angles and longer top tubes than a few years ago.

    What it does for pedaling fit.... open issue for sure.
    Seems like what we "know" about pedaling position is mostly garnered from road bike fit and/or the assumption that the rider will be in that position most of the time. Real life MTB is a different story - esp with bikes in this category where it's assumed the rider will be in more aggressive & technical terrain.

    Im 5'11", 200+ currently and just changed over to a Transition Sentinal Carbon from another popular bike in this same category. The bike I sold was possibly the worst of the "effective ST angle" offenders. I knew it was bad...but didnt realize just how bad until I made the switch. On the last bike I basically had to overextend my seat height because at full extension on steeper seated climbs it put me so far over the rear wheel that I would sag really far into the susp travel. The Sentinal falls on the opposite spectrum with one of the steeper ST angles. The difference in climbing capability due to the actual STA between these 2 bikes was dramatic and immediately noticeable - I felt like I was finally in a descent climbing position again.

    Long story short...you can keep your roadie plum bob tests and Ill be damn happy with my steep STA on the steep climbs getting me to the rowdy descents which these bikes deserve. However....all this talk about suspension stiffing up when the seat is raised, that there is some magic I would love to hear more about! ;-)

  82. #82
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    excellent. I'll grab my 140/160 bike for a flat ride on a multi-use paved trail, because that's just so important that we need to compromise climbing *and* descending. The big thing about mountain bikes, it's in the name....mountain, up and down. Flat, it's a method of getting A to B, but pretty much everything on trail is up or down.

    Being forward puts you in the proper position, proper weight balance, for climbing and descending. Long reach, proper "fit" to descend, being in the bike. Climbing, keeping the center of mass centered, and not looping back over the wheel, squatting the suspension. Given those, I'd compromise flat without a problem. If going casual XC, then I wouldn't buy this for that. If racing hard, being forward is more natural, than retro-grouch 72* SA....something along 74* SA works. I think even the Specialized Epic has a 74+ SA, and it's definitely not getting in the way of winning XC races.

    This Ibis is moderate, and not all that progressive. It's the "mainstream" geometry, but just a bit longer, a small tad. Check out Nicolai bikes, or Mondraker for long.

    Numbers alone, I'm really digging this bike. If reach were around 480-490 in the L, I think, would be better.

    I've hated FS bikes for a long time. Hated. They sucked on technical climbs, because the weight goes back and it squats. This newer generation is so much better.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DubC View Post
    Seems like what we "know" about pedaling position is mostly garnered from road bike fit and/or the assumption that the rider will be in that position most of the time. Real life MTB is a different story - esp with bikes in this category where it's assumed the rider will be in more aggressive & technical terrain.

    Im 5'11", 200+ currently and just changed over to a Transition Sentinal Carbon from another popular bike in this same category. The bike I sold was possibly the worst of the "effective ST angle" offenders. I knew it was bad...but didnt realize just how bad until I made the switch. On the last bike I basically had to overextend my seat height because at full extension on steeper seated climbs it put me so far over the rear wheel that I would sag really far into the susp travel. The Sentinal falls on the opposite spectrum with one of the steeper ST angles. The difference in climbing capability due to the actual STA between these 2 bikes was dramatic and immediately noticeable - I felt like I was finally in a descent climbing position again.

    Long story short...you can keep your roadie plum bob tests and Ill be damn happy with my steep STA on the steep climbs getting me to the rowdy descents which these bikes deserve. However....all this talk about suspension stiffing up when the seat is raised, that there is some magic I would love to hear more about! ;-)
    Following?

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    Triathlon bikes have been utilizing steeep STA's since the early/mid nineties. Up to 80 deg on some bikes. One of the oft-touted theories was to lessen quad dominance and utilize more ham/glute so triathletes could use their 'running muscles' while riding. If memory serves and it's been a while since I sold and fit tri bikes, the issue with the knee ahead of the pedal axle is that it can cause strain on knee ligaments if the support muscles are not developed. I think the end-around on this was to start with smaller rides and high cadences before pounding.

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    Can we have JKW an Brian Lopes ripping the Ripmo together, please?

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    Quote Originally Posted by simenf View Post
    Can we have JKW an Brian Lopes ripping the Ripmo together, please?
    Probably not, Lopes would probably consider that to be beneath him lol

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    Quote Originally Posted by sosburn View Post
    Probably not, Lopes would probably consider that to be beneath him lol
    Iíll give BL the benefit of the doubt

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    Quote Originally Posted by sosburn View Post
    Probably not, Lopes would probably consider that to be beneath him lol
    Lol.
    They are kinda opposite personalities. Everyone I talk to about Kendall-weed say he is the nicest most positive person ever.

    And anytime I bring up Lopes, there is always someone that has to offer their input, and itís almost never positive.

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    Quote Originally Posted by simenf View Post
    Iíll give BL the benefit of the doubt
    I thought that Lopes was with Ellsworth.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Dpca10 View Post
    Following?
    That was my guess too, as I like The Following for descending, but it didn't work nearly as well as the Ripley does climbing due to my weight being way back with my long legs putting the seat up where it needed to be.

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    Itís a tough game keeping up on current geo these days. Bikes have a shelf life comparable to milk.

    However, Ripmo ticks all the boxes at the moment.

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    Quote Originally Posted by DubC View Post
    Seems like what we "know" about pedaling position is mostly garnered from road bike fit and/or the assumption that the rider will be in that position most of the time. Real life MTB is a different story - esp with bikes in this category where it's assumed the rider will be in more aggressive & technical terrain.

    Im 5'11", 200+ currently and just changed over to a Transition Sentinal Carbon from another popular bike in this same category. The bike I sold was possibly the worst of the "effective ST angle" offenders. I knew it was bad...but didnt realize just how bad until I made the switch. On the last bike I basically had to overextend my seat height because at full extension on steeper seated climbs it put me so far over the rear wheel that I would sag really far into the susp travel. The Sentinal falls on the opposite spectrum with one of the steeper ST angles. The difference in climbing capability due to the actual STA between these 2 bikes was dramatic and immediately noticeable - I felt like I was finally in a descent climbing position again.

    Long story short...you can keep your roadie plum bob tests and Ill be damn happy with my steep STA on the steep climbs getting me to the rowdy descents which these bikes deserve. However....all this talk about suspension stiffing up when the seat is raised, that there is some magic I would love to hear more about! ;-)
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    The Kool aid is so good.

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    Quote Originally Posted by simenf View Post
    Can we have JKW an Brian Lopes ripping the Ripmo together, please?
    They dropped at least one trail in Santa Cruz riding together during the dealer launch I was at - Jeff had a go-pro on the side of his helmet too. Whether that's video that ever sees the light of day remains to be seen (my guess is probably not but never know).

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    Quote Originally Posted by DubC View Post
    Seems like what we "know" about pedaling position is mostly garnered from road bike fit and/or the assumption that the rider will be in that position most of the time. Real life MTB is a different story - esp with bikes in this category where it's assumed the rider will be in more aggressive & technical terrain.

    Im 5'11", 200+ currently and just changed over to a Transition Sentinal Carbon from another popular bike in this same category. The bike I sold was possibly the worst of the "effective ST angle" offenders. I knew it was bad...but didnt realize just how bad until I made the switch. On the last bike I basically had to overextend my seat height because at full extension on steeper seated climbs it put me so far over the rear wheel that I would sag really far into the susp travel. The Sentinal falls on the opposite spectrum with one of the steeper ST angles. The difference in climbing capability due to the actual STA between these 2 bikes was dramatic and immediately noticeable - I felt like I was finally in a descent climbing position again.

    Long story short...you can keep your roadie plum bob tests and Ill be damn happy with my steep STA on the steep climbs getting me to the rowdy descents which these bikes deserve. However....all this talk about suspension stiffing up when the seat is raised, that there is some magic I would love to hear more about! ;-)
    I've been curious about this since I got my large The Calling last February. I had hoped it would climb better. Not that it is a bad climber but I am pretty far back on the bike when the 175mm post is fully extended with 40mm of base post exposed. This make steep climbs way more of an effort to keep the front wheel down and is likely not the most efficient. I wondered if I would have been better off on an XL with my 6'3" height?

    That said I am eager to check out some new bikes with steeper STAs and longer reach to see how they compare.

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    Quote Originally Posted by canadianjerkey View Post
    Don't know if it's officially been given the OK, but looks like Lopes is running a coil on his:

    https://www.instagram.com/p/Bgyz5kJj...-by=brianlopes
    Click image for larger version. 

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    FYI coil is officially a no go due to the suspension curve, though they did mention they might be working on a coil specific to this bike (and possibly another one for the HD4) that they would sell separate, but also mentioned it would be pretty $$ upgrade (not quite push level but in the $800-1000 range).

    Lopes was running a custom EXT storia that I'm guessing has a good amount of bottom out resistance/custom built, thus why it works. Not sure if that's who they might be partnering with or if it would be made by someone else, also sounded like it might still be a ways off if they decide to do it - were asking some dealer input if customers would actually ask for that option.

    They did say specifically DON'T run an X2 coil FYI... as sweet as the orange spring would look on the blue/orange frame

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    Good to know. If someone else is (maybe) working on a coil I wonder if PUSH would/could develop a tune for it. Whether I actually would is it's own question, but I was bummed when PUSH said they couldn't find a good tune for the HD3.

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    Quote Originally Posted by prozach0215 View Post
    The Kool aid is so good.
    You can pretty say that about any good new product these days. Hey, cheap shots are free!
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  100. #100
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    Quote Originally Posted by simenf View Post
    Itís a tough game keeping up on current geo these days. Bikes have a shelf life comparable to milk.

    However, Ripmo ticks all the boxes at the moment.
    Well said. Shelf life is a big issue indeed, specially for 'aggressive' bikes. Bronson with big Enve rims and decals, S-works are not in the limelight so quickly.
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    Does Francis give himself socks for this thread... it's just crossed the magical 100.

  102. #102
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    Quote Originally Posted by JCWages View Post
    I wondered if I would have been better off on an XL with my 6'3" height?

    That said I am eager to check out some new bikes with steeper STAs and longer reach to see how they compare.
    You definitely should be on the XL at that height. I can't believe you're on a L? That would be tiny for you, that's what I ride, L.

    You'll love a more forward geo, I know I do. What's also good is that I no longer bang my knees on my handlebars, at least not yet, when I get out of the saddle on tech switchback climbs. It's just so much better.

    On my Nickel, the seat nose is so far up my taint, on climbs, that it is really uncomfortable, not to mention a pain in the ass. I also have my saddle slammed forward, because climbing sucks even worse when I go back just another inch. That brings in the reach issue, as I bang knees.

    My N4 climbs worlds better, but it needs to be steeper, and it's 74* SA (effective) ... easily noticeable, much more relaxed and just chilling instead of remembering to load the front on climbs, but I still go forward, just not as much. I would call 75-76 being perfect, based on my experiences...for FS. I wouldn't use that on a HT though. I think 74 for a HT would be about right....which would match my road bike as well. The N4 is not as progressive, but it's a good bike, needs to be a tad longer and a tad steeper SA. If I knew the Ripmo was due out, I would've held off. This one definitely catches my eye, but I will not test it. Nope. No way. I don't want to know.

    If I were to design a bike, it would be more inline with Mondraker, but probably not as much as Nicolai. PVD is in this vein too, but can't remember what his numbers are.

  103. #103
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    Quote Originally Posted by sfmtber View Post
    Does Francis give himself socks for this thread... it's just crossed the magical 100.
    Fack yeah. I have about 30 socks right now missing the matching pair. That's gotta be some kind of record.

    Since I'm a good netizen, I cross-posted this thread on other appropriate forums. TONS of info there but Norcal is killing it as usual.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/all-mountain/...r-1073640.html

    http://forums.mtbr.com/ibis/ibis-rip...r-1073638.html
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    Given the "good for norcal?" question, am I the only one who thinks it may be overkill? I have ridden at every legal place (as far as I know) that you can on my 130mm front/ 125mm rear 29er and although it could use a tiny bit more travel for some riding areas, the 160mm fork seems to be overkill. Maybe at Joaquin Miller the extra bike could be useful as I feel like I have not enough bike there, but even riding at the demo bike event at santa teresa county park, the 29er stumpjumper with ohlins air (I think 150mm front/rear) felt super plush and I had plenty of travel left unused, and that was probably one of the rockiest trails in the bay with some decent drops.

    I also tested the yeti sb5.5 there and didn't run out of travel on the 140 rear (fox dpx2) and had some travel left over, that bike felt pretty stiff and harsh though so it could have just been the setup. I also didn't even come anywhere close to running out of travel on the 160mm fox 36 either.

    The point is it seems like the regular hightower would probably have just the right amount of travel for riding around here, maybe the double black diamond drop at tamarancho could use extra travel but idk otherwise. Yet I say "legal" as I have not ridden some other areas that I know might have bigger drops, harsher terrain etc.

    I wonder how this bike fits too, I am right around the size between medium and large, the large is too big but I think the medium is also too small based on the sizing chart. I don't have any problems with other brands so far, just ibis really, neither the HD3 or newest Ripley fit me well.

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    I've seen guys ride stuff harder than anything you just described on a rigid unicycle. Not sure why you need 130mm and two wheels?

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    Quote Originally Posted by prozach0215 View Post
    I've seen guys ride stuff harder than anything you just described on a rigid unicycle. Not sure why you have need 130mm and two wheels?
    That would be epic to see! Obviously that's not the most efficient way around, I guess the idea here is "use it or lose it," unless you are riding trails I don't know about in the bay or norcal in general and using all your travel, it seems more efficient to have the bike with less travel.

    Plus I felt the stumpjumper so far has been the best bike I ever rode (not that I have ridden many bikes) and on paper it is not the best bike either- short wheelbase, not that slack geometry, etc., but I liked it better than bikes that would probably be rated much higher.

  107. #107
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    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    That would be epic to see! Obviously that's not the most efficient way around, I guess the idea here is "use it or lose it," unless you are riding trails I don't know about in the bay or norcal in general and using all your travel, it seems more efficient to have the bike with less travel.

    Plus I felt the stumpjumper so far has been the best bike I ever rode (not that I have ridden many bikes) and on paper it is not the best bike either- short wheelbase, not that slack geometry, etc., but I liked it better than bikes that would probably be rated much higher.
    Using all of your travel or not seems more about having your suspension set up properly. If you never use close to full travel on the biggest hits you ride regularly your suspension is probably not set up right. Similarly if you constantly bottom out on features you ride regularly you probably need to adjust your setup.

    My number one goal on a ride is not necessarily efficiency. I appreciate an efficient bike as it helps me get to the fun part of the ride with less energy spent. For me that's pretty much the whole point. FUN. I don't race, I ride to enjoy myself and have fun.

    I have a Nomad 3 with 180mm of travel and I regularly trail ride with it because it is fun as hell. Love my HD3 for its light poppy feel and tight cornering ability, another fun bike for sure.

    The ripmo looks like a ridiculously fun bike too, can't wait to ride one. Climbs better and descends better, sounds good!

  108. #108
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    https://youtu.be/z5A74Qhk-RI

    My point was we are all different, blanket statements like"I don't see why anyone would need more than 130mm in NorCal" are just kinda silly. No one needs more that a full rigid. And some people might think that's the most fun way to get around. But either you ride really slow or mainly smooth trail, if 130mm up front seems ideal. (FYI, I ride a 130mm hardtail on pretty much everything. It's fun for a little while, then my hands and back appreciate more suspension front and rear. )

  109. #109
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    Quote Originally Posted by agreenbike View Post
    " unless you are riding trails I don't know about in the bay or norcal in general and using all your travel,
    We are!

  110. #110
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    My friend is a long time Ibis rider rode the Ripmo and was not impressed. I didnít get the details, but I donít think he will be picking one up.

  111. #111
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    Quote Originally Posted by spokeywheeler View Post
    Using all of your travel or not seems more about having your suspension set up properly. If you never use close to full travel on the biggest hits you ride regularly your suspension is probably not set up right. Similarly if you constantly bottom out on features you ride regularly you probably need to adjust your setup.

    My number one goal on a ride is not necessarily efficiency. I appreciate an efficient bike as it helps me get to the fun part of the ride with less energy spent. For me that's pretty much the whole point. FUN. I don't race, I ride to enjoy myself and have fun.

    I have a Nomad 3 with 180mm of travel and I regularly trail ride with it because it is fun as hell. Love my HD3 for its light poppy feel and tight cornering ability, another fun bike for sure.

    The ripmo looks like a ridiculously fun bike too, can't wait to ride one. Climbs better and descends better, sounds good!
    True, on my personal bike I have it optimized for each trail system so i'm using just about full travel everywhere I ride without bottoming out, I've only had limited time on the other bikes I borrowed so perhaps i'd change my mind if I could get more time to set them up.
    Quote Originally Posted by prozach0215 View Post
    https://youtu.be/z5A74Qhk-RI

    My point was we are all different, blanket statements like"I don't see why anyone would need more than 130mm in NorCal" are just kinda silly. No one needs more that a full rigid. And some people might think that's the most fun way to get around. But either you ride really slow or mainly smooth trail, if 130mm up front seems ideal. (FYI, I ride a 130mm hardtail on pretty much everything. It's fun for a little while, then my hands and back appreciate more suspension front and rear. )
    Well technically I think my 130/125 is a bit undergunned so to speak so I can see a use for a little more, so that's not my intention, the question was more about how much is too much for the trails here, which to me the ripmo seemed like. I don't think 130 fork is ideal (plus I have a fox 32...) but it gets the job done and certainly a bit more rear travel would help as I've always wanted a tiny bit more travel for some areas, its just how much more. I actually made a thread here last year asking if a trail or enduro bike was ideal around the bay area as I was planning on buying a new bike, but I haven't settled on buying another bike and am doing okay on my current one so far. I'm hoping something comes out this year that suits my interest.

    And I neither ride slow or exclusively smooth trails, tamarancho or some parts of skeggs (like manzanita trail) come to mind for rougher trails. I do ride as fast as my 2.3 dhf's and narrower wheels, 100mm dropper, etc allow, I suppose with 2.5's and a wider wheelset and more I could possibly be riding quicker though. I feel like my bike is set up perfectly for waterdog though which is fairly smooth, though it rips through the rocky stuff at tamarancho. It could use a tiny bit more for demo and skeggs but then that comes in the question "how much is too much?" I guess i'm going to have to demo some more bikes to find that out.

  112. #112
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    XL geo is similar to my 2018 XL Specialized Enduro 29er only longer.....I thought my bike was long, but this WB is crazy long. I also think the ST is too short. For tall people with a big inseam like me the short ST may create a problem with minimum insertion???

  113. #113
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    Quote Originally Posted by fitnessgeek View Post
    XL geo is similar to my 2018 XL Specialized Enduro 29er only longer.....I thought my bike was long, but this WB is crazy long. I also think the ST is too short. For tall people with a big inseam like me the short ST may create a problem with minimum insertion???
    The ST length on XL the Ripmo is only half an inch shorter than on the HD4. Does half an inch cause a real problem in regards to min insert?

    Seems like a big complaint with past models is riders not being able to fit the length dropper they want to run, which in most cases is at least 150mm.

    I am in this boat with my HD3. With a size medium frame I can only run 125mm.

  114. #114
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    Quote Originally Posted by fitnessgeek View Post
    XL geo is similar to my 2018 XL Specialized Enduro 29er only longer.....I thought my bike was long, but this WB is crazy long. I also think the ST is too short. For tall people with a big inseam like me the short ST may create a problem with minimum insertion???
    Im 6"4 with a 35" inseam and could not run a 100mm, but a 125 would be fine. The simple fact is that I would never go below a 185 after riding a 200mm for the last year. My current bike has over 110mm of extra insertion. Losing seat tube is just weight we don't need.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  115. #115
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    Quote Originally Posted by alexbn921 View Post
    Im 6"4 and could not run a 100mm, but a 125 would be fine. The simple fact is that I would never go below a 185 after riding a 200mm for the last year. My current bike has over 110mm of extra insertion. Losing seat tube is just weight we don't need.
    That is great you found your personal sweet spot.

    For me, I ran a 200 as well as 170. I can use every bit of the 200 on steeper terrain, which I do ride regularly. The problem was, the frame ST was too long, so I opted for the 170 with QR. 75% of what I ride the 170 was fine, then I would just go old school for the steeps.

    Having the 200 with a shorter ST will be the Holy Grail, for Me.

  116. #116
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    some rough math on the seat tube of an XL
    18.5" ST = 469.9mm
    + 175mm cranks = 644.9mm
    + 400mm (max length on a 170mm Reverb dropper with min 80mm insertion) = 1044.9
    from the top of the pedal to the top of my saddle (along ST angle) is ~ 1024mm (I have a 36.5" inseam) so without accounting for the saddle height and pedal height I suppose this works with the minimum insertion on a Reverb 170mm. I'm not sure about the 185-200mm dropper options. I personally would rather have more post inserted for strength knowing that I would still be able to run a 200mm dropper if the ST was longer. I suppose my large inseam is in the minority though. As it is my Enduro with a 521mm ST still has a ton of post sticking out and I'm able to run a 170mm 34.9 Reverb Stealth. My bike looks like I have a crazy long seat post as it is and this bike would be over 2" longer. Bigger concern is strength, but the steeper ST angle helps things. Enough rambling...

  117. #117
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    Most seats are 50-80mm so you would have 70 to 100 extra insertion. Seems like plenty to me.
    Making shit harder than it needs to be isn't awesome, it's just...harder.

  118. #118
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    Quote Originally Posted by fitnessgeek View Post
    some rough math on the seat tube of an XL
    18.5" ST = 469.9mm
    . Enough rambling...
    That is some good ramblings..

    I have been measuring as well with a 9Point8 200mm.

    I need my saddle seat rail at ~31.5" from BB
    31.5-18.5 = 13
    So, 13" is what I need from seat rail to top of ST.

    That gives almost 5.5" of stick-out from top of ST to rail in lowest position.

    Based on FC's full compression pic, this may just barely work depending on your saddle length and position.

    Looks pretty good for tall people.

  119. #119
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    Quote Originally Posted by TraxFactory View Post
    That is some good ramblings..

    I have been measuring as well with a 9Point8 200mm.

    I need my saddle seat rail at ~31.5" from BB
    31.5-18.5 = 13
    So, 13" is what I need from seat rail to top of ST.

    That gives almost 5.5" of stick-out from top of ST to rail in lowest position.

    Based on FC's full compression pic, this may just barely work depending on your saddle length and position.

    Looks pretty good for tall people.
    I have wayyyyy more pics now. Including the bikes of a 5í1Ē person and 6í6Ē
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    I have wayyyyy more pics now. Including the bikes of a 5í1Ē person and 6í6Ē
    Short person pics please

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk

  121. #121
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    So the bike has a big sweet spot with many uses. One of them is for cruising the streets as a lowrider for bike party.Ibis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?-img_5588.jpg

    Ibis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?-ernest07mia.jpg
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  122. #122
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    Quote Originally Posted by bogeydog View Post
    Short person pics please

    Sent from my SM-G955U using Tapatalk
    Roxy is 5 feet tall and Tom is 6'6". Roxy is now able to use a dropper for the first time in full suspension history.Ibis Ripmo - long travel 29er good for Norcal?-unnamed.jpg
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  123. #123
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    Quote Originally Posted by fc View Post
    I have wayyyyy more pics now. Including the bikes of a 5í1Ē person and 6í6Ē
    But, but, but...what size does Lopes ride? I didnít see an XXS listed

  124. #124
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    Anybody know what shops have Ripmo's for demo?

    So far all I can find is Sunshine in Fairfax.

  125. #125
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    Quote Originally Posted by prozach0215 View Post
    https://youtu.be/z5A74Qhk-RI

    My point was we are all different, blanket statements like"I don't see why anyone would need more than 130mm in NorCal" are just kinda silly. No one needs more that a full rigid. And some people might think that's the most fun way to get around. But either you ride really slow or mainly smooth trail, if 130mm up front seems ideal. (FYI, I ride a 130mm hardtail on pretty much everything. It's fun for a little while, then my hands and back appreciate more suspension front and rear. )
    Agreed.

    Funny enough, on one of the Georgetown runs yesterday I let a gal try my bike because she had never ridden a FS bike and was interested in upgrading from her old 29er Spesh hardtail with spring fork and Beeline 1.9" tires. So I rode her bike down Mace Mill DH? Or what we've been calling Iron Gate because of the short iron fencing half way down. Riding sweep I had the luxury of not needing to ride fast but what a hoot. Even with the fork mostly locked out to keep from diving the bike was fun to ride. It was much more of a workout for sure compared to my bike and obviously slower but still fun. I felt more roughed up for sure. You can ride some pretty janky bikes down some pretty serious trails but I wouldn't want to do it all the time.

  126. #126
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    Trailhead have a large, which i demoed yesterday, here's my two word review:

    Buying one!

  127. #127
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    I demoed a Ripmo and Hightower LT back to back. Am I crazy for thinking the LT climbed significantly better?

    LT had a DPX2 while the Ripmo had an X2. Shop did set me up for sag on each bike, but we didnít play around with the rebound settings.

  128. #128
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    Quote Originally Posted by eysikal View Post
    I demoed a Ripmo and Hightower LT back to back. Am I crazy for thinking the LT climbed significantly better?

    LT had a DPX2 while the Ripmo had an X2. Shop did set me up for sag on each bike, but we didnít play around with the rebound settings.
    Probably all comes down to that shock. The X2 is a DH shock at the end of the day.

  129. #129
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    Quote Originally Posted by Joe_510 View Post
    Probably all comes down to that shock. The X2 is a DH shock at the end of the day.
    Yeah, the X2 has all the knobs and adjustments. Probably something to do with LSC setting/adjustment. While the DPX2 probably has the correct LSC out of the box.

  130. #130
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    Iíve climbed about 12k on a dpx2 Ripmo up various fireroads and bumpy single track, and aside from
    the heavier tires, it climbs as well as my Turner czar, which is no slouch. I think there might even be less pedal bob.

  131. #131
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    Thanks. I wondered if it was the shock.

    I was all set to buy the LT but thought I should take it out again and compare it to the Ripmo. Now Iím very close to pulling the trigger on a new GX-build Ripmo. Will probably swap the wheels For Santa Cruz Reserve 30s. Maybe upgrade the brakes and crankset as well. Everything else seems OK on the build. Seem good?

  132. #132
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    I have mine on order, GX black and green. Plan on swapping brakes for my TRP's. Estimated to get in late June.

  133. #133
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    Do any shops have XLs in stock?

    Sent from my SM-N950U using Tapatalk

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    BTW - Sports Basement doing Ibis (as well as Scott and Cannondale) demo days next month. And Ripmo is in the demo fleet. ALSO, once you sign-up to Basementeer program you get 10% EVERYTHING. I think you'll be hard press to get Ripmo demo and discount elsewhere right now.

    https://shop.sportsbasement.com/coll...ke-demo-days-1

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