Bottom Bracket click click click click- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Bottom Bracket click click click click

    What is causing this? I pulled the thing out complete, regreased all thread, crankarm connection, and pedals.

    Literally issolated down to the right drive side crank at the 4o'clock position. This is a cheapie bike with a VP-BC73 bottom bracket. The unit said 68x116. Can't find anything from shimano that has this dimension. Will a 68x115 work as a replacement? That is the closest I found so far.

  2. #2
    Wēk Ss
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    The spindle length (116/115/117/113/etc.) will adjust your chainline and q-factor. Not sure about greasing a square taper spindle. Check the crank arm for roundness where it attaches to the spindle.

    Going from 116 to 117 would move, ideally, the chainline out 0.5mm. A 115 would move the chainline in 0.5mm. In reality, with a square taper, it changes after wear on the arm, as it's a press fit and not splined. 0.5mm is in the noise, IMO.

    When you assembled it back together did the ticking change? Check the chainrings. Is it straight (bent tooth), loose bolts, etc.

  3. #3
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    Try another set of pedals if you have some to make sure it's not the pedals.

  4. #4
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    Will try dif pedals.

    Chainring is straight. I only ride this bike xc at mission peak. Impossible to bend any chainring as its a up hill fireroad. After regreasing, and putting it back, noise went from click, click, click to double click, double click, double click.

    So the 115 should be ok if i adjust the derailleur?

    Brw, this is a hardtail, so, no joints/bearing

  5. #5
    Wēk Ss
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    Does the clicking happen on a workstand as well as riding or only when riding?
    Does the clicking happen when you remove the cranks and spin the BB by hand?
    After you put it back together, is it still at the 4 o'clock position or has it moved around?

    It could be the threads in the frame, or a bad BB, or the crank wiggles (is rounded out) on the spindle. For wiggling crank arms, there might be wear marks on the spindle as well. Is the BB torqued to the proper spec?

    115 or 117 should be fine. You may or may not need an adjustment on the derailleur.

  6. #6
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    No click on work stand. Infact, only when i m going uphill. Regular pedaling will not create noise. Noise only at 4 oclock, before and after. I m starting to suspect is the frame or crank arm connection to bb as you suggested. Let me pull it out again. I didnt tighten as hard after pulling bb out and putting it back. May be thats the thing thats causing the double click.

    Thanks

  7. #7
    aka dan51
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    Sounds like a pedal or chainring bolt.
    My pedals were doing that last week until I took them off and greased them.

  8. #8
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    I had a problem like that ,turned out to be the crank arm connection

  9. #9
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    you know, funny thing, now my other bike, which is only a few wks old, is doing the same thing too. And this is a highend press fit BB.

    This one I suspect is coming from the left pedal as the bike is mint. But this one does it even with the lightest flat ground pedal stroke.

  10. #10
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    Have you tried greasing the outside of the chainring nuts, the ring/arm interfaces, and your cleat bolts? Those can be culprits if the usual stuff doesn't work.
    "A thing is right when it tends to perserve the integrity, stability, and beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when it tends otherwise." - Aldo Leopold

  11. #11
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    Have you checked your chain ring bolts? Make sure they're very tight.

  12. #12
    Weird huh?
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    tick tick tick? It's a boomb!

    El Cid is Spanish for The Cid..
    cmdrpiffle 7 points 1 day ago
    Cinco de Mayo is Spanish for Cinco de Mayo

  13. #13
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    Other than the chain ring bolts, I have tried greasing everything.

    I have ruled this out as the clicking happens on small, middle, and big chainring. Small ring is attached independently to the crank than the middle and big.

  14. #14
    Ariolimax columbianus
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    Check, grease seat post. Make sure saddle rails are clean, dry.

  15. #15
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    What kind of frame is it? Another weird one i've seen on frames by certain manufacturers is a bb shell in which the threaded part is bonded to the rest of the shell and is starting to separate.
    "A thing is right when it tends to perserve the integrity, stability, and beauty of the biotic community. It is wrong when it tends otherwise." - Aldo Leopold

  16. #16
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    I had the dreaded "click" as well, changed pedals, still clicking, cleaned and re-greased pedals, still clicking, took seat off, cleaned rails, re-greased, no more clicking! Good luck, I can't stand when my bike clicks or creaks

  17. #17
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    Nope, not seatpost. Noise is there when I am standing, not seating down.

    Frame is a Fuji. Aluminum hardtail.

  18. #18
    WWYD?
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    On the downstroke? Two clicks after all that pressure might be a crack in the frame at the bottom bracket area. Is the click on the pressure and after? Had that happen to a Fisher AL frame. Broke another frame at the seatpost/toptube junction on a giant NRS, made a creak with every stroke.

  19. #19
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    The noise is there only on pressure for the Fuji hardtail drivetrain side.

    As for the high end stumpjumper FSR, the noise is there on the non-drive left side, even with the slightness pressure, standing or sitting.

    I start to miss my quiet old bike

  20. #20
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    How about these ideas:

    Do your shoes have laces? When I commute by bike my laces will hit the crank and "click".

    Try using plumbers tape-dope on the threads of the bottom bracket. If its a square tape,r you need to torque down really hard to make a good interface.

    The pedals may need an overhaul or at least pull them off and clean them really good and tri flow the hell out of them under the rubber seals.

    Does your seat post clamp make ANY sound when loosening or tightening? A bent seat post bolt can make it hard for a tight interface.

    Clicks and creaks make me crazy too!

  21. #21
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    As you can see, this type of stuff is annoyingly hard to diagnose. IF you have a trainer and a buddy, try riding on that (or your buddy can) and see what you can find out when you take a look at it spinning on a trainer with high resistance.

    The mechanical interfaces are my first guess, but it's going to cost some money to blindly start replacing stuff. It works, no doubt. You might be able to borrow a square taper BB to test out. I have some, but not sure what spindle lengths I have.

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loll View Post
    you know, funny thing, now my other bike, which is only a few wks old, is doing the same thing too. And this is a highend press fit BB.

    This one I suspect is coming from the left pedal as the bike is mint. But this one does it even with the lightest flat ground pedal stroke.

    Have you checked your ankles, knees and hips?
    I like to ride bikes.

  23. #23
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    you know, I am willing to take the fact that the cheap fuji makes noise. What really pissed me off is that the 1 month old stumpy is making similar noise. It just really pissed me off.

    But I suppose I get what the priced paid for. Never really thought much about those reputable shops that rebuild the bike from factory before selling to the customer. Now I am really seeing how that would have been great. The dealer I picked up the bike from is a good 50 miles away.

    I like the plumber tape on the thread idea. Will try that. Again, the bike clicks even when I am standing, so the noise is likely not from seat/seatpost/seatpost clamp.

    Also, IAmholland's idea of trying a different BB is also something I meant to try. Just dont know too many people with 68x116.

  24. #24
    WWYD?
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    Quote Originally Posted by Loll View Post
    Also, IAmholland's idea of trying a different BB is also something I meant to try. Just dont know too many people with 68x116.
    There's always the 1 mm spacer trick...

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