Underwhelmed by BB7s- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    No good Underwhelmed by BB7s

    I just put BB7s front and rear. Maybe I was expecting more based on the praise they get on the forum. I set them up according to the instructions I read on here. Did the break in, ect. They don't feel any better than the TEKTRO IO that came stock. I've tried readjusting the pads, cleanied the rotors, and retightened the cables. Stopping power is lacking especially on the rear. The fronts are slightly better than stock. Give me some suggestions please as right now they suck.

  2. #2
    AZ
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    Did you glaze the pads ? If the pads got glazed during brake in you will suffer from diminished stopping power . Just a thought .

  3. #3
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    they rock, you just suck at installing them

    find a lbs near by.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by AZ.MTNS
    Did you glaze the pads ? If the pads got glazed during brake in you will suffer from diminished stopping power . Just a thought .
    It's possible. Will check tomorrow.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kevin_Federline
    they rock, you just suck at installing them

    find a lbs near by.
    Thanks for the great suggestion! Got any more helpful hints? Maybe riding in the middle of on coming traffic playing chicken.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by smackay
    Thanks for the great suggestion! Got any more helpful hints? Maybe riding in the middle of on coming traffic playing chicken.
    That doesn't work, trust me.
    What kind of rotors? The stock Tektro?
    Sand the pads and rotors with a medium grit, then rinse with water. Then try again.

  7. #7
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    Yes, stock TEKTRO rotors. I asked the question about rotors in another thread. I was told there was no advantage with the Avids Roundagon rotors. Medium grit= 200? 400? Finer? After sanding and rinising, redo the break-in? Sand the rotors while still on bike, spinning wheels while still attached?

  8. #8
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    A trick my LBS taught me. Put on some mud and use the brakes. It will clean off whatever crap you had on there. Then rinse it off. Works great!

  9. #9
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    I had a similar problem with my BB7's when I first got them. Days and days of trying to set them up properly never worked. What did work and allowed me to get to bite really hard was some advice XSL_WiLL will gave me.


    Take out the pads and clean them, get some new rough low grit sand paper. Put the paper on a flat surface(like glass), and then put the pad on the sand paper braking material down. Do even figure 8 rotations, with the pad. Its best to wear some form of medical/kitchen gloves while doing this. Do each pad maybe 10-20 full figure 8's. Make sure the pad is getting evenly worn, which should not be a problem if the surface is flat. I did this on my kitchen table.

    Do that for all the pads with new paper for each. Now clean your rotors with 90% rubbing alcohol. Go out and ride. Each caliper needs to be activated between 60-80 times before the brakes start working properly. Do hills and fast flats. When you activate your brake, do it so you don't stop, you want to apply pressure, drastically slow down, release lever, then go again. Keep doing this until you hit 60-80 times per caliper. Make sure you don't come to complete stop's.


    It may also be a problem that your inboard pad is not close enough to the rotor. It must really get close, your rotors upon brake activation should have little movement. If you see a lot, your inboard pad is out to far and it needs to be brought in. If you cant bring it in, because the rotors are touching and thus bent, try this method:


    Loosen your CPS bolts and tighten the inboard pad so when you apply outbound(away from wheel) pressure to the entire caliper, the rotor rests against your inboard pad. The 2/3 and 1/3 split needs to be seen here. So keep adjusting your inboard pad until you see a perfect 2/3 1/3 like in the manual. Now spin your wheel in clockwise direction like you are riding. Keep it spinning now. With your CPS bolts loose and your inboard pad set, slowly start to tighten your outboard pad in, Keep spinning the wheel and slowly click the pad in. What will happen is the caliper will be set around where it gets stuck on the rotor. So tighten it until the wheel cant turn anymore. Now tighten your CPS Bolts to spec.


    That method may sound silly, but it really works on non perfect rotors.

    If this doesn't work, your pads are really and completely contaminated and your best bet is to just buy new ones. If you must go this route, remember to keep your rotor clean, lots of alcohol to get accidental oils off.


    GL

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by smackay
    Yes, stock TEKTRO rotors. I asked the question about rotors in another thread. I was told there was no advantage with the Avids Roundagon rotors. Medium grit= 200? 400? Finer? After sanding and rinising, redo the break-in? Sand the rotors while still on bike, spinning wheels while still attached?
    400 grit should be fine. Rinse then redo break in. I'd be care full spinning and sanding then on the bike. Wouldn't want a finger getting caught.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by smackay
    Yes, stock TEKTRO rotors. I asked the question about rotors in another thread. I was told there was no advantage with the Avids Roundagon rotors. Medium grit= 200? 400? Finer? After sanding and rinising, redo the break-in? Sand the rotors while still on bike, spinning wheels while still attached?
    You need to get the old pad residue completely off of the rotors. "Mixing" compounds gives poor braking. Either install the Avid rotors or remove the current ones and wet sand them wilt 800 grit Emory paper and LOTS of water. Then you will need to go through the break in process again.

    BB7s also work best with full length housing routed with the fewest and easiest bends possible, even if it means bypassing the frame's guides/stops.
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  12. #12
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    Thanks for the helpful suggestions. I will try them in the morning. I'll report afterwards.

  13. #13
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    FWIW, I recently posted about lame BB7 brakes after "upgrading" to BB7s. First off, I think people rave about the BB7s because of how "nice" they are--all the adjustments you'd want in a well designed package. Stopping power isn't necessarily going to be better than other mechanical brakes.

    Anyway, it turns out that my pads were glazed. They were like mirrors and had very low friction as a result. I sanded the glaze off, sanded the rotors, and cleaned everything and they are now as strong as you'd expect.

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