Stroker Ryde - Lack of brake power?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Stroker Ryde - Lack of brake power?

    This is my first set of hydros, first set of discs, first suspension (hardtail) bike so bear with me here. I just bought a bike used and so I don't know the history of the bike but I've bled the brakes as they were very mushy and couldn't stop so now the handle is firm but the actual power out of the brakes seems poor comparing against the other bike's entry level canti's.

    I've taken the pads off, sanded them and then doused a little rubbing alcohol on them to clean them off. I've also wiped the rotors down with rubbing alcohol, I didn't scratch them up however. After this it didn't seem to help one thing I tried was accelerating up to 15-20 mph and braking down to just barely moving and I did this about 40 times, and boy it's tiring! But toward the the end the brakes started to feel like they were working better but still not up to par of the canti's and of course the rotors were probably blazing. By not working great I mean getting to around 15 mph and taking 30ft to stop by grabing a fistful of front brake. The rears seem to work alright as they can lock up the rear fine.

    Now, what's the next step? Buy another set of pads? I see there's the stock Ryder pads and pads from Kool Stop and Swiss Stop available for these calipers. The Kool Stops are (by one site) organic compound so I'm not sure if those will help me, I can't find the composition of the Swiss Stops (and they're $40!) and the factory Hayes brakes are a semi-metallic compound. Should I just buy the Hayes brakes as they should work better than what I'm getting? Or is this just the problem with entry level hydros?

  2. #2
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    they're not great brakes to begin with, but they should have much more power than that!

    take the pads out and hit them with a propane torch, or a lighter if you have nothing better. i bet you/someone got some oil or brake fluid on them at some point.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by tomsmoto
    they're not great brakes to begin with, but they should have much more power than that!

    take the pads out and hit them with a propane torch, or a lighter if you have nothing better. i bet you/someone got some oil or brake fluid on them at some point.
    I've baked mine in the over before. Soaked in ipa for a few minutes and baked @ ~400F for 10mins. Sides were a bit crumbly but make them a lot better.

    Might want to try a set of cheapo pads from ebay.

  4. #4
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    You should be able to replace both sets of pads with either sintered or semi-metallic Hayes OEM pads for $40.

  5. #5
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    I think you guys are on the wrong track. I suspect air in the line, water in the line, or the wrong kind of brake fluid? did you do the bleed yourself? Since you are a newbie to hydraulic discs, I recommend you find a good shop with a mechanic who knows what he is doing, and pay the $30 or whatever to have a new bleed and fresh fluid. Watch what he is doing, and learn it for the next time.
    The rydes are the low end of the stroker line, but in terms of design key elements, they should perform as well as the higher priced trails or carbons. They are good brakes, and they are plenty strong enough.

  6. #6
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    I've been bleeding my own car for years now and am pretty confident in the bleed. The brake lever is solid after about 7.5mm of pull and is solidly engaging from that point on, I can't get the lever anywhere near the bars so I'm not bottoming out the lever. Admittedly I tried the syringe method and found it way too messy and convoluted and switched over to the method I've used in cars. Used the syringe (pulling out the stopper) as a reservoir, putting that into the fill hole and pumping the brakes til no air is in the lines. I've read also that you're supposed to put positive pressure into the caliper before closing the bleeder line to compress the bladder? I didn't do this but I don't think that's my problem. I know I probably didn't need to do this but I also knocked all the air out of the MC reservoir as well before screwing the cap back on.

    The fluid is a relatively good DOT4, its Valvoline Synpower which has a good dry boiling temp and a very good wet boiling temp, the whole system was flushed with it as I put at least enough for 5 complete flushes though the lines to make sure there's no air.

    I've tried sanding and IsA the brake pads, tried 'boiling' them in water with a mild detergent, tried soaking them in IsA and then holding the pads over a propane cookstove til the edges showed signs they were flaming up. I even moved the rear pads to the front. Unless this bedding process takes more than 20-30 hard stops then I'm stumped. I think I'm just going to take it to a local dealer tomorrow and see what they say.
    Last edited by makeitso; 11-13-2009 at 06:27 PM.

  7. #7
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    75mm of pull?
    7.5 cm of pull = 2.95"

    I don't see that much pull happening if they are right.
    I've got maybe .75" max of lever travel.

    If you are pulling 3" of lever I'd think you'd be at the bars.

  8. #8
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    Oops I typed that out wrong. I meant to type 7.5mm of pull to engage the brake. In total I'd say there's about .8" of total pull if I grip the hell out of it.

    Took it to a shop and they basically told me the bleed is fine and I should just try going for a few runs to let them bed in so hopefully I'm not going to be hanging on for dear life!

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