Shimano LX Hydrolic brake issue!! please help!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Shimano LX Hydrolic brake issue!! please help!

    Hey mtbr,

    ive gone biking a few times downhill.. and now my brakes wont even work.. im not sure if its oil leaking causing it to be very weak, or just needs new pads!

    I can hold down the brakes like crazy and itll barely work.. im scared to even ride my bike now... what can i do? could there be another issue?

    could air gotten into the system?
    should i get the oil replaced? (i just got the bike like 4 months ago..)

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Could be air, brake fade, etc..

    Are your levers sinking to the point where it touches your grips?

    Have you checked your pads? Maybe they are due for a replacement.

    Maybe your rotors are glazed and need some light sanding and maybe a new set of pads?

    Could be quite a few things.

  3. #3
    ballbuster
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    Is this all the time, or only after you heat up your brakes a bit?

    My guess is you overheated your brakes and glazed the pads and rotors. Try sanding a bit of the pads off, and making swirly scratches on the braking surface on the rotor. Clean and re-bed your brakes... see if that clears things up.

  4. #4
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    IMHO...

    If the lever is spongy, it's air in the system. Which you need to bleed.
    If the lever is firm, you might need to check your pads?

    If it's indeed the pads has worn out, you might wanna consider using metallic pads. it will last longer and give more bite (that's if you're still using the stock pads now)

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by parkp81
    Are your levers sinking to the point where it touches your grips?

    Have you checked your pads? Maybe they are due for a replacement.

    Maybe your rotors are glazed and need some light sanding and maybe a new set of pads?

    Could be quite a few things.
    Yes, i am puling down the lever till it touches the grips. even then, it wont stop.. its kinda like an "engine brake" effect in a car..

    ill try sanding down the rotors.. but wont it go back to normal after i go biking again?

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by pimpbot
    Is this all the time, or only after you heat up your brakes a bit?

    My guess is you overheated your brakes and glazed the pads and rotors. Try sanding a bit of the pads off, and making swirly scratches on the braking surface on the rotor. Clean and re-bed your brakes... see if that clears things up.
    This is all the time NOW. Before it would stop completely even with minimal effort on the lever..

    BTW, what do you reccomend for cleaning the brakes? thanks

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaizer
    IMHO...

    If the lever is spongy, it's air in the system. Which you need to bleed.
    If the lever is firm, you might need to check your pads?

    If it's indeed the pads has worn out, you might wanna consider using metallic pads. it will last longer and give more bite (that's if you're still using the stock pads now)
    oh, then yea it may just be air in the system, its just way too "spongy"

    What brand pads do you reccomend that will fit the LX? wont that damage the actual disc using metallic pads?

    thanks

  8. #8
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    I'm running A2Z metallic pads with Alligator rotors on my M485. Much better feel & bite than the stock combo.

    I'm not sure the type of pads that will fit your LX though.

    Best bang for buck is to bleed the system first (free or minimal cost if you're DIY). See if it gets back to your stock feel and bite.

    After that, you can change to metallic pads and/or different (bigger) rotor for more bite.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Kaizer
    I'm running A2Z metallic pads with Alligator rotors on my M485. Much better feel & bite than the stock combo.

    I'm not sure the type of pads that will fit your LX though.

    Best bang for buck is to bleed the system first (free or minimal cost if you're DIY). See if it gets back to your stock feel and bite.

    After that, you can change to metallic pads and/or different (bigger) rotor for more bite.
    ooo

    mehh, i would bleed it, but too bad.. i stripped the resevor cap screws awhile back! i may just ask the LBS to open it up and just replace the screws and oils for now.. the second time, ill just bleed it myself, since ive done alittle research and its seems something stupendiously easy..

    BTW, do Metallic Pads damage the rotor easy?

  10. #10
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    well, not strip, but i had a bad fall awhile back, and it just scratched the screw away

  11. #11
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    Are you running shimano rotors?

    If you know your specific model name/number of the rotors, you can do a search here if it's 'compatible' with metallic pads.

  12. #12
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    I have no idea what rotors im using, but i suspect im using Shimanos.. im riding the Stock GT Marathon 2.0.. hope that helps a bit.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mattlikestobike
    ...snip....

    BTW, do Metallic Pads damage the rotor easy?
    My understanding is some rotors are not hardened so you need to use organic pads. To use metallic pads you need rotors (hardened) that are suitable for them.
    Duct tape iz like teh Force. It has a Lite side and a Dark side and it holdz the Universe together.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by mitzikatzi
    My understanding is some rotors are not hardened so you need to use organic pads. To use metallic pads you need rotors (hardened) that are suitable for them.
    That sounds right from how I see it. However, kaiser I believe is using non-hardened rotors???? Am I missing something here?

    Mehh I guess sticking with resined pads aren't that bad.. I may just sand it down with circles and see if there is a difference for now.. What grit sandpaper do you recommend? Something fine? Or really gritty?

  15. #15
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    I'm not sure if my rotor is hardened or not. But personally my main concern when I change rotor is that I read that resin pads doesn't last with extremely serrated rotors like the Alligator, hence I changed to metallic pads.

    Usually a rotor will last quite a while, like a few pad's lifetime. So even if it shorten's the rotor's life, it's still not that bad I think?

    Again from what I read here in MTBR forum, a resin pad won't even last a few rides with serrated rotors in muddy conditions.

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