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Thread: Which Rotors?

  1. #1
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    Which Rotors?

    i need new rotors because my clean sweeps aren't cutting it. I'm running Juicy 5s and i'm looking for 203mm rotors and adapters. somthing that cools really well and can stand up to HEAVY DUTY DH clyde use.

    somthing that doesn't cost a fortune please

    i was thinking galfer, but their website isn't working?

  2. #2
    2010 RockHopper Comp Disc
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    what's wrong with the CS.

  3. #3
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    i overheated the hell out of them! a 203mm rotor turned blue, and my brakes faded like mad in an effort to keep my speed under 40mph. all accompanied by smoke and smell.

    they work well, but after i burned up a set of 185s and made the jump to 203s a couple of weeks ago in an attempt to solve the overheating problem, i toasted another set and i'm feeling a strong need for an upgrade

    i need new adapters cause the ones i have are ugly and beat to hell (dunno how, i got them used... for free)

  4. #4
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    Awwwwww

    Shame you're against the expensive options, nothing out there to touch these for bling (and they perform well too), oh and it comes in 203 :

  5. #5
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    I know this is a bit off topic but I'm curious as to your weight. I'm 240 geared up and have 203mm cleansweeps with BB7s and have purposely tried to abuse them on DH and haven't been able to fade them. I'm just wondering under what conditions they will fail. I'm sure what I consider DH is nothing compared to yours.
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

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  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by BuickGN
    I know this is a bit off topic but I'm curious as to your weight. I'm 240 geared up and have 203mm cleansweeps with BB7s and have purposely tried to abuse them on DH and haven't been able to fade them. I'm just wondering under what conditions they will fail. I'm sure what I consider DH is nothing compared to yours.
    i'm 230 lbs, and the 203mm took ALOT longer to overheat than the 185mm, but it still overheated

    But this is also an extremely steep and rocky trail. not insanely difficult, but crazy steep.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah
    hmmmm... it looks cool but i dunno if it would cool better?

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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexJK
    hmmmm... it looks cool but i dunno if it would cool better?
    That rotor will cool better and stop your large frame with zero problems. I used to weigh 230 and never had issues then. I'm now 160 and went back to Galfer 160mm rotor.
    "This is a male-dominated forum... there will be lots of Testosterone sword-shaming here" ~ Kenfucius

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Zachariah
    That rotor will cool better and stop your large frame with zero problems. I used to weigh 230 and never had issues then. I'm now 160 and went back to Galfer 160mm rotor.
    How do you know it will cool better than a cleansweep?
    '08 Hardrock HRXC
    '09 Epic Comp
    '14 Trance SX -

  11. #11
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    Get a bigger rotor. Or a bigger brake.

    Anyhow - what pads do you use?

  12. #12
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    i was using organic, but i switched to sintered. still overheated.

    i'm thinking i might try those galfer rotors, they aren't too expensive and it might be worth the bling alone!

  13. #13
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    Bleed the brakes with a high quality DOT fluid. Don't drag the brakes so much.

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Bleed the brakes with a high quality DOT fluid. Don't drag the brakes so much.
    Already filled with Avid DOT 5.1

    and you have to drag the brakes, this trail is stupid steep and it's rediculously rocky... and i'm on a hardtail i'm pretty sure i just need to get a set of good 4 pots but i don't have the money at the moment. i'll look around the classifieds

  15. #15
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    "i was using organic, but i switched to sintered. still overheated"

    That is because sinterd pads operate at a higher temp than organic pads do.

  16. #16
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    Quote Originally Posted by mrgto
    "i was using organic, but i switched to sintered. still overheated"

    That is because sinterd pads operate at a higher temp than organic pads do.
    oh, ok. should i switch back to the organics for now then?

  17. #17
    Meh.
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    How fresh was the bottle of DOT 5.1? DOT fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture. This lowers the boiling point. There are DOT 4s with higher boiling points (Motul RBF 600).

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    How fresh was the bottle of DOT 5.1? DOT fluid is hygroscopic and absorbs moisture. This lowers the boiling point. There are DOT 4s with higher boiling points (Motul RBF 600).
    It was a new bottle, but who knows how long it was sitting in Jenson's warehouse. The Motul has a higher boiling point than even fresh DOT 5.1? I thought the DOT ratings were given according to boiling point.

  19. #19
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    Motul RBF 600 is a DOT 4 and has a higher boiling point than any DOT 5.1 than I am aware of. The dry boiling point is 593 Fahrenheit. The wet boiling point is 420 F. Motul DOT 5.1 has a wet boiling point of only 365 Fahrenheit. Endless RF650 has a dry boiling point of 622F. Wet bp is 424 F.

    DOT determines a certain minimum performance among other characteristics for fluid.

  20. #20
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    slightly off topic, but can mechanical disc overheat?

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by nony
    slightly off topic, but can mechanical disc overheat?
    ooh yeah, the only difference is that you can let them cool off and they will still probably work fine, though you might glaze the pads (sand them)

  22. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Motul RBF 600 is a DOT 4 and has a higher boiling point than any DOT 5.1 than I am aware of. The dry boiling point is 593 Fahrenheit. The wet boiling point is 420 F. Motul DOT 5.1 has a wet boiling point of only 365 Fahrenheit. Endless RF650 has a dry boiling point of 622F. Wet bp is 424 F.

    DOT determines a certain minimum performance among other characteristics for fluid.
    so what would be the advantage of 5.1? hah, i'm running out of Avid fluid and the Motul is sounding good!

  23. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by AlexJK
    so what would be the advantage of 5.1? hah, i'm running out of Avid fluid and the Motul is sounding good!
    There may be a viscosity difference. All brake fluids must be no less viscous than 1.5 centistrokes at 100C. And different types must be lower than a certain maximum viscosity at -40C.

    Some fluids may have a longer service interval than others. Motul RBF600 should not be used with magnesium brake components.

    The Endless fluid has the benefit of high performance as well as stability and longer service intervals. It does come with a price tag though.

    Whatever fluid you choose, do a full flush.

  24. #24
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    endless fluid? DOT 4 is compatible with DOT 5.1 right? i'll for sure do a full flush.

    i appreciate the help!
    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    The way I see it right now, if my bike is too heavy, then I'm too weak!

  25. #25
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    don't know about avids, but hayes has 9" rotors. you'll have to have and IS fork to work cause you'll have to use an 8" rear adaptor up front....

  26. #26
    Meh.
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    Yes, DOT 4 and DOT 5.1 are compatible.

    http://www.evasivemotorsports.com/Me...&Store_Code=EM

  27. #27
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    i think i'll go and get some Motul, service interval doesn't really apply to me, i bleed my brakes once a month cause it's good, easy, preventative maintaniance(especially for a guy that is hard on his brakes)
    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    The way I see it right now, if my bike is too heavy, then I'm too weak!

  28. #28
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    Quote Originally Posted by vk45de
    don't know about avids, but hayes has 9" rotors. you'll have to have and IS fork to work cause you'll have to use an 8" rear adaptor up front....
    hah, i went and looked at those on the hayes website, this is what the weight info said:
    Weight: Don't ask
    Quote Originally Posted by Dictatorsaurus
    The way I see it right now, if my bike is too heavy, then I'm too weak!

  29. #29
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    Those 9" rotors from hayes should be approx 250-280 grams. Formula also makes 9" rotors.

    If the brake is properely bled, and the fluid is not stale, then the thing with "overheating" is actually the pads losing the ability to create proper friction against the rotor - this happened to me several times, usually with organic pads and/or small rotors ( I weigh circa 270 lbs with riding gear). To fix this problem you either need to use a bigger rotor or use a bigger brake. Both will get you some extra weight, but both will fix the problem ( or more specifically - will significantly delay it happening ).

    Anyhow - you say you need it for HVD clyde use, so you need a HVD clyde brake - hopes V2, gustavs, saints, codes, stroker aces, that kind of stuff.

  30. #30
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    29ers should have brakes approx 12 % bigger(3/26) that's very close to 225mm(9 inch) i don't know if you're riding one of those contraptions or where you're at(himalaya's?). There's always technique,or picking your runs, if you're trying runs that are way above your ability and just riding the brakes constantly, on a 29er ,there may be no current solution.You can go faster and pick your braking spots,only where it's really necessary for survival, that will actually keep the brake temps down. I have a friend ,who's a bit of a mad scientist, he was working on a moto sized mtb,carbon,internally gearboxed bike.He had widened a set of hope 4 piston calipers ready to go with dual disks, and a captive floating pad between the rotors, he didn't stay interested in mountainbikes long enough to finnish it,huge project. If you're looking for brakes at the upper level of current technology,weight really shouldn't enter the discussion.

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