rotor size?!??-
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Thread: rotor size?!??

  1. #1

    rotor size?!??

    hey whats the difference in the rotor sizes? I'm new to the disc brake world and have to know this stuff.

  2. #2
    also, good and bad b/t hydro and mechanical? I'm leaning towards the mech, think it will be easier in the long run. Any input would be awesome.

  3. #3
    Reputation: skaterqwertyuiop's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jul 2010
    Larger rotors are for more stopping power, and obviously weigh more. The larger the rotor, the more leverage you get to stop the wheel.
    I run mechs (BB7s) and I love them on my AM/FR rig with 203mm rotors. I don't care about weight.
    Mechs and hydros are both pretty easy to set up usually, it's just personal preference.
    I like the BB7s because they take <5 minutes to install and adjust properly. They have been put through their paces as I ride them at Diablo, they've never disappointed me.
    It's not about what bike you ride, but how hard you tear it up :)

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Join Date
    Apr 2010
    185mm is a good all around rotor to have. its not too big and still has plenty of stopping power. i have ran both hyd and mech brakes, i prefer hyd because of the feel and lack of effort required on the pull. they really are 1 finger brakes. but the downfall to that is bleeding and leaks from a crash.

    Juicy 3's are fairly cheap and do a great job if you aren't a weight weenie.

  5. #5
    I am definitely seeing the bb7 name thrown around the most, seems cheap too. I definitely believe I am going with them. Will any size rotor fit on any bike?

  6. #6
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    Apr 2010
    yes, you just need the right spacer for the caliper so they line up.

  7. #7
    Just Ride
    Reputation: Cormac's Avatar
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    Aug 2011
    I to am new to disc brakes. I originally wanted a bike with hydro brakes, just because. But the bike I ended up with had mech. I have no complaints with them. I still think I might want hydros at some point, but I really don't see the need to spend the money on them right now as the mechs work just fine for me. I don't rely on my brakes for everything, just use them to shave speed as needed. But they do stop when needed!
    SS ==> Nut up or Shut up!

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ridingaddict's Avatar
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    Feb 2011
    Another vouch for the bb7's here. Picked them up on ebay for 100 shipped new. Calipers, rotors, screws... Comes with 160mm rotors. One day I'm going to get something larger at least for the front but the 160's will do for what I need them for.

    One thing I love about them vs what I was assuming were the bb5's on my uncles old bike and uh winzip calipers on a khs bike I bought is that they are really easily adjustable even without tools because they have two red rotating adjusters on both sides of the caliper to adjust how close the pad is on each side which the bb5's only had one adjuster knob and the other calipers didn't have any if I remember right (too cold to go look)

    Like the other guy said, it's really easy to install. When I first install them I loosen the cable all the way and loosen both red rotating adjusters all the way. Then I place the wheel in and start spinning it as I'm adjusting the knobs one at a time to find the sweet spot where the pads are as close to the rotor as possible without scraping. I then move the mechanical part as the wheel spins to find out where it starts to rub the rotor and then I move about a mm back down and tighten the cable. This, I've noticed is the best steps to take to get the tightest braking possible and even with my old rim-brake brake levers they feel very responsive and not squishy at all.

    As far as hydraulics go, I've never ridden a bike with it. I've heard they are really smooth and effortless but after reading about both I think mechanical can endure more with less maintenance and therefore I'm happy I went with the mech.

    I hope that helps
    Low saddles save balls.

    You win again, gravity!

  9. #9
    mtbr member
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    Apr 2011
    Another +1 for the BB7's. I have mine setup with 160mm rotors F&R on a 26er (plenty of power for my 230lb a**), Jagwire cables, and Avid SD7 levers. And if you do go the route of BB7's you can still get good cables and levers for less than you would pay for a nice set of hydro's.

    Now have ridden my buddy's bike with Avid Elixir's and I will admit hydro's do have an advantage. When really squeezing the lever, hydros have a nice bottom out, locked down feel. Mechanicals will have a little give due to the stretch in the cables, but this is typically beyond the amount of pressure you need to apply during normal riding conditions.

    The BB7's are dead simple to service and definitely the best mechanical disc, IMO. Use them with SD7 levers and you have more modulation/feel adjustability than you would with hydro's. As for rotor size, unless you're a downhiller or 29er, 160mm should be plenty of power.

  10. #10
    Jamin, Applesause, No?
    Reputation: Senor StrongBad's Avatar
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    May 2009
    Eddie, You should be good with the BB7's the only advantage to hydros is on longer decents when your hand will tend to get more worn out with mech. Unless you are going down hill for longer then a couple miles with constant braking you should be fine. You would also probably be fine with both 160mm rotors front and back although I like 185 up front for a little more stopping power. Make sure you get the right adapters for your fork and rotors. If you need help installing shoot me a Text or a PM and i will be more then happy to help. I have installed dozens of disc brakes and have done a lot of work on BB7's.

    The better your brake line the better the BB7 will work too. Do not scimp on the cable and housing.

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