Question About Interrupter Brakes- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Suffers From Binge Biking
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    Question About Interrupter Brakes

    Hey guys, I have a bike that I want to put some interrupter/ cross brakes on but need some clarification on how they work. For these to work properly, do I need a straight length of cable housing from the lever to the brakes, or would it still work if the housing meets a cable stop before getting to the brakes. As I understand it, these brakes push the housing into the brakes, which forces the brakes closed. If the housing is broken up, the lever would just try to push the housing against the cable stop and do nothing at all. Is my understanding correct or can they still somehow work?
    If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.

  2. #2
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    Ummm....

    think about it, all cable actuated brakes, whether disc, drum, or rim, work the same way. It may look different or be designed slightly different, but they all use housing and cable stops. The interupted style housing that we use today is a spin off from road bikes. It saves a few ounces of weight nothing more. There have to be at least two stops for the housing for cable brakes to work. On a full housing run the stops are the seat on the brake (whether it's actually a part of the brake arm or not is imaterial) and one at the brake lever. If you add intermediate stops on the frame and remove a section of housing in the middle somewhere, it's no different. You still have a supported brake cable where it needs to be, at the lever and at the brake. Adding the intermediate stops just means you have some bare cable to whistle in the wind and less housing. Your brakes will work just fine using the cable stops on your frame, or you can do a full length housing run, it won't make any difference.

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  3. #3
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    Thanks Squash. I get what you're saying and I know it makes sense, but I guess it's just one of those things I need to see to actually understand. For now I'll take your word.
    If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.

  4. #4
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  5. #5
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    I have them installed and see now how they work, and that it's just the same concept of an in-line barrel adjuster. Thanks for the link bikinfool, but unfortunately I didn't even see your post until just now (not sure why I didn't get an email). Installation was pretty straight forward though, and the only real problem I had was that I had to clamp the levers on a tapered section of the bar so they were far enough apart to allow the opposing cables to be routed without too much interference. Should I wrap some old tube around the bar before clamping on the levers to give them a little more grip?
    If it ain't broke, fix it 'till it is.

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