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  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation: jpc6000's Avatar
    Join Date
    Feb 2018

    New question here. Problem with shortening sram guide r


    I shorten the cable as indicated in sram guide and youtube.
    I use new hose barb, dot 5.1 grease and compression fitting. When I tighten the compression nut to 8NM with flat spanner 8 mm, which is a lot. And so I stop if it is not yet 8NM. I bleed and then, when the pinch is squeezed in the brakes, oil escapes from the hose barb. I continue to to tighten the compression nut, but the oil keeps leaking out. So I remove the hose again and check the hose barb and compression fitting. I note that the aluminium compression fitting is damaged. So I renew this with a new hose barb. In the packaging of the compression nut and hose barb are also two different joints, and these appear to fit on the hose barb, the narrow left and the big right. They have not use these in the manual or on your tube. Are these joints for the hose barb?
    I have then tried with and without but do not get it closed.
    Then I also have the compression nut overridden, apparently with Open ring key, must be used. I use BGS Torque wrench set 1/4 ", 6-30 NM but I do not find an open ring wrench 8mm for the torque wrench, then I screwed up with the pipe wrench and broke the compression nut.
    I'm looking for:

    Open ring wrenches for my torque wrench or torque wrench 8NM with 8mm open ring wrench.

    Any advice welcome.
    Problem with shortening sram guide r-momentsleutel-bgs.pngpipe wrench

  2. #2
    SS Pusher Man
    Reputation: mtnbikej's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2001
    Dis you make sure the hose was pushed all the way into the master cyclinder?

    Make sure the fit up is tight when you start tightening the compression nut.
    Bicycles donít have motors or batteries.

    Ebikes are not bicycles

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Was the olive red? (AKA Stealthamajig) If so, it threads onto the barb with left hand threads. First the boot then compression nut are placed on the the hose. Then the process is the barb is first screwed in to the hose using right hand threads, then the red olive is slid over the large end of the barb and threaded onto the bar with left hand threads. Insert the hose with the barb and olive into the lever and tighten the compression nut.

    If the olive is silver, put the boot, nut and olive on the hose, thread in the barb, push the hose end with the barb fully into the lever, hold it in while sliding the olive into the lever and keep holding it in while tightening the nut.
    Do the math.

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: teK--'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2011
    What you need is a crows foot attachment for your torque wrench. Remember to perform a calculation to work out your new target torque value based on the increased lever arm length.

    I have found also that the red barb/thingamajig system doesn't ever seem to hit 8Nm without feeling like I am overtightening it. I have stopped at 7Nm and the system worked fine with no leaks.

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