please help on adjusting hydrolic breaks- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    please help on adjusting hydrolic breaks

    HI all

    I've got a set of Shimano XT, the ones where the gear shifter and break are in one. I would like to decrease the play for my rear break. The distance that I must pull my rear break to get a skid say is much more than I need to pull my front break and I would like them the same. Its also easier for me on the down hills when I dont need to pull it so far.

    CAn anyone help me on how to adjust this, it would be much appreciated.

    Thanks
    G

  2. #2
    Gone riding
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    Information on hydraulic brakes can be found in the Brake Time forum.

    Good luck.

    Dave.

  3. #3
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    there is a very small 2.5mm adjustment that you screw in or out it is right where the lever goes into the housing.

  4. #4
    Gone riding
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    I’m no expert (hence the link to the Brake Time forum), but won’t that just change the lever position, not the actual bite point like gambithunt requires? I would give the system a good bleed first to see if that improves the feel.

  5. #5
    Glad to Be Alive
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    bleed your lines again........that will make it a shorter stroke/pull from on and off
    the trick is ENJOYING YOUR LIFE EACH DAY, don't waste them away wishing for better days

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Low_Rider
    Iím no expert (hence the link to the Brake Time forum), but wonít that just change the lever position, not the actual bite point like gambithunt requires? I would give the system a good bleed first to see if that improves the feel.
    Yes that will just change postion of the stroke of the lever.

    The distance of the pads from the rotor floats with the pad spring strength.

    Yes a bleed maybe required, difficult to tell from the given data.

    Also he may need new pads and a spring??

    So if you don't know try the lever adjust, if that don't work, check for pad wear, go to lbs buy pads and a bleed kit and your good to go?

    I guess I check pad wear first!

  7. #7
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    It is most likely that you need a bleed. The rear brake has a much longer brake line, so there is much more room for air bubbles... and it doesn't take much. The rear brake lever is generally going to feel a little softer than the front for this very reason. A good bleed can get you pretty close though.

    Pad condition won't affect lever position if your brakes are functioning correctly. As the piston pushes outward from the caliper, it passes by a rubber seal which is square in cross section. As it pushes out, it deforms this seal by trying "roll" this square seal. When the lever is released, the seal goes back to its original position, taking the piston with it. As the pad wears, the seal will reach its maximum "roll" before the pad contacts the rotor, and the piston will begin to slide by the seal (because it cant roll anymore). When the lever is then released, the piston will return to a position slightly more extended than before, even though your levers are in the same place it always is. The next lever compression wont have to slide the piston against the seal, because it has been "reset".

  8. #8
    friend of preston
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    try this

    go to your LBS and ask them what you are asking here. they will diagnose it and fix it.
    remember... brakes make you stop.
    He who makes a beast of himself, gets rid of the pain of being a man.- Dr. Samuel Johnson

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by crashomatic
    go to your LBS and ask them what you are asking here. they will diagnose it and fix it.
    remember... brakes make you stop.
    Yeah, if the OP has no clue how to work on them, might be worth having someone else do it right (but I work on my own anyway)

  10. #10
    Tear it all out! SuperModerator
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    Moved thread to the brake board.

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