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  1. #1
    Rep'n the 905
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    Pads wont retract, caliper wont even fit on rotor without forcing it - brand new bike

    So my buddy bought a Goblin, we went down to the US to pick it up. Un boxed it (surprised how well packaged it came) and everything was mounted and installed except the front tire, sea post and handle bar. All the components were bolted on but seems like they all need fine tuned.

    His rear brake and front brake were rubbing so we tweaked the front and its good to go now but the back was rubbing a bit worse. So we tried tweaking it but it didnt work, so I had just watched a youtube video from parktools where a guy builds his bike, its a 12 part video. When he adjusted his rear, while the caliper was off the bike he seperated the pads as wide as possible, mounted the caliper then engaged the brake 3 times. then he checked the spacing. In his video is wasnt far off so he moved the entire caliper a nudge and bolted it in and that was that.

    I tried this with his but it made it worse and now the caliper barely fits on the rotor. From the moment he took it out of the box I felt the rear brake it always felt way to strong in the lever (Very little movement of the lever and tons of pressure, nothing like the front brake)

    I believe they are Elixir 7's.

    So in my completely unprofessional and amateur opinion it feels to me like either theres air in the line or too much oil??? I get the feeling that we should bleed the brake and try again.Theres just way too much pressure feel from the lever and even if you unbolt the caliper and manually space the pads they do not stay retracted they shoot right back together.

    If anyone can understand this problem I am doing a horrible job at explaining and can help us out I'd appreciate it.

  2. #2
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    forcing it - brand new bike

    When I've gotten brakes and the factory put too much in them, I just open the bleed port on the brake lever and usually closing it back up immediately without letting air in under the screw does the trick. Brakes on 'some assembly required' bikes typically frighten me. Having to adjust warped rotors seems to be an all too common repair job on bikes out of the box. It's lame, I think the rotors shouldn't come installed on a wheel that sits with room to wiggle while traveling thousands of miles. Avid catches a lot of flack for this, probably in part because they come on a lot of bikes-from-the-box. They aren't my favorite brakes anyways. Anyone else with experience, please chime in.

    Sent from my Desire HD using Tapatalk 2

  3. #3
    Rep'n the 905
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    Yea, I checked the rotor for any signs of warp, it doesnt look like thats the issue. But good call.

    We did try the screw on the lever too and that didn't help neither.

  4. #4
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    Did you remove the pads? It may help when prying the pistons apart

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    Did you remove the pads? It may help when prying the pistons apart
    Nah didnt do that, its not my bike and I'm not sure my buddy wants to start disassembling things.

    But how might this help? I'm willing to give it a go

  6. #6
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    Unless you are sure the pistons are retracted completely, removing the pads makes it easier. Do the process a few times, you may have a sticky piston.

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by rjedoaks View Post
    Unless you are sure the pistons are retracted completely, removing the pads makes it easier. Do the process a few times, you may have a sticky piston.
    well I tried forcing the pads wider, which is does but as soon as I pull the tool out from between the pads they just close back together again.

  8. #8
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    There may be too much fluid in the system to completely retract the pads. Try loosening the bleed screw on the caliper or lever (loosen just enough to allow fluid to escape past the threads, do not remove the screw) and pushing the pads back with that screw loosened. Once the pads are retracted tighten the screw.

    Another method is to loosen the bleed screw on the caliper and squeeze the brake lever a bit (this is assuming the pads are in the caliper and the rotor is between the pads) to force some fluid out of the system, while still holding the lever close the bleed screw, and then try pushing the pads/pistons back in.

    The whole goal is to lose some fluid from the system without introducing air so that you have more room for the pistons to retract.

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