Noob help...two week old bike rear brake locked up- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 10 of 10
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    13

    Noob help...two week old bike rear brake locked up

    I'm brand new to mountain biking but I've got several thousand road biking miles. I've always worked on my own brakes on my motorcycles and cars. I've owned this bike two weeks and have not messed with the way it came from the factory.

    The brakes: Avid Elixir 5's front and rear.

    The problem: Back wheel is locked up. At first I thought it was a drag issue with maybe the rotor and the mount slightly out of alignment but it is not. The front brake lever has about 1" of travel where 1/4" of that is the mechanical play and 3/4" is the actual "braking force". The rear brake lever has 1/4" of travel only, the hydraulics are tight as a drum. It takes significant force to turn the rear wheel by hand. No disc warping, no kinking of the brake line

    I looked at the manual and it has no mention of this. It could be temperature related, it was over 90F this morning when I tried to ride.

    I've ridden a ten mile loop last weekend and the brakes seemed fine.

    Any links or suggestions? I'd really like to go for a ride tonight before I head out of town tomorrow. None of the shops around here are open on Sunday.

    Thanks,
    David

  2. #2
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    25,412
    Caliper may need to be recentered and or a minor fluid release.
    Formotion Products
    http://www.formot

  3. #3
    Noli Me Tangere
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    406
    See my other post 'Left Under the Sun'...
    Annie are you ok? Are you ok, Annie?

  4. #4
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    25,412
    Quote Originally Posted by Dial Tone
    See my other post 'Left Under the Sun'...
    Sounds like your still looking after 2 weeks of replies.
    Formotion Products
    http://www.formot

  5. #5
    Noli Me Tangere
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    406
    I know, still awaiting for a definitive answer.

    The original poster's brake problem sounds similar to mine. I have recentered my brakes and had some fluid release when I opened the lever cover and still have the same problem.
    Annie are you ok? Are you ok, Annie?

  6. #6
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    25,412
    This is a video done by Hayes but the technique is the same. Believe I was using .030" feeler gauges between rotor and pads on the Juicys.

    http://forums.mtbr.com/showthread.php?t=415647
    Formotion Products
    http://www.formot

  7. #7
    Noli Me Tangere
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Jul 2008
    Posts
    406
    Are you referring to centering rather than the bleeding?

    The first time I centered my brakes I actually used a business card. The second time was a peice of cardboard the inner tube comes in. Problem with cardboard is that the edges get bent from inserting between the pad and rotor.

    What I use now is I cut up a peice of plastic from a gallon of water jug. Its stiff enough to push in between the rotor and pad and its also smooth that is just glides in.
    Annie are you ok? Are you ok, Annie?

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    13
    I've got an email in to the guys I bought the bike from. I had to go out of town on travel anyway so I can't mess with it now.

    Centering may be part of the problem but I think it is more than that. On the way out this morning I checked the wheel again after sitting overnight in my garage and the ambient temp was 20 degrees cooler. It was way easier to turn the rear wheel. Still slightly draggy but you could spin it hard enough to get a couple of revolutions. Before you could get zero travel after I twisted it.

    So we shall see, I'm not afraid to bleed / swap fluid / screw with them but since I have to wait anyway I'm going to see what the vendor says to do.

    David

  9. #9
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jan 2005
    Posts
    25,412
    Use feeler gauges they really do work. Center the caliper with the feeler gauges. When the caliper is snugged down burp any excess fluid out of the master cylinder. A good setup is a piece of hose attached to the bleed adapter the excess fluid will rise up into the hose this is also a good time to tap on the hose and fittings to help any possible air bubbles to rise up & out. Install the master bleed screw, remove the feeler gauges.
    Formotion Products
    http://www.formot

  10. #10
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    May 2010
    Posts
    13

    problem solved

    Bleeding a few drops out of the system did the trick.
    1. Remove the wheel.
    2. Place the plastic bleed block that shipped in the front brake in between the pads on the dragging brake.
    3. Open the bleed screw very slowly and carefully until fluid just barely oozes out. Catch the oozing fluid with a rag.
    4. Push down on the plastic bleed block to force the pads apart.
    5. Close the bleed screw after a few drops have escaped. You can always bleed out more but it is hard to put back in.
    6. Replace the wheel and check clearance. Repeat until satisfactory pad clearance achieved.

    David

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.