Magura MT lever screws -- where to get replacements?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Bonking ... not feelin' well Magura MT lever screws -- where to get replacements?

    Aluminum Torx heads sure are easy to round off. And the MT's T25 heads have a non-standard shape as well.

    Any ideas on where to find replacements?

  2. #2
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    Contact Magura direct - they'll set you up.

    I'd recommend installing with a standard screw driver with replaceable bits or fixed t25, instead of a L-shaped wrench, if you are not already.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
    Contact Magura direct - they'll set you up.
    Thanks -- I'll give it a try.

    Quote Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
    I'd recommend installing with a standard screw driver with replaceable bits or fixed t25, instead of a L-shaped wrench, if you are not already.
    Yes, it's possible to do quite a bit of damage with an L-shaped wrench :-( I'm now the humbled owned of a remarkably expensive German screwdriver -- the Wiha 28553 TorqueVario-S -- set to 3.0 Newton-meters as specified by Magura for the MT levers.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ecgtheow View Post
    Thanks -- I'll give it a try.



    Yes, it's possible to do quite a bit of damage with an L-shaped wrench :-( I'm now the humbled owned of a remarkably expensive German screwdriver -- the Wiha 28553 TorqueVario-S -- set to 3.0 Newton-meters as specified by Magura for the MT levers.
    That's a great excuse to get a sweet new tool and that is a nice looking one - I think I'll pick one up.

    Magura actually recommends 2-3Nm for those AL clamp bolts, even though they just list 3Nm in the instructions that come with the brakes. I made the mistake of following the 3Nm recommendation when I first installed my MT8's - grabbed my Effetto Mariposa(which is highly accurate) set to 3nm and turned the bolt head off before hitting 3nm. Now I just use a standard screw driver and tighten them up, which I should have done from the beginning.

    Anyways, I've been there. Magura was super quick to send out replacement bolts and even spare carbon clamps. All free of charge, even though it was on me.

  5. #5
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    Caution;  Merge;  Workers Ahead! Torque screwdriver shopping tip.

    Quote Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
    That's a great excuse to get a sweet new tool and that is a nice looking one - I think I'll pick one up.
    With benefit of hindsight, I bought the wrong Wiha -- for two reasons:
    1. The 28553 only goes down to 1.0 Nm, but the Magura bleed screw specifies 0.5 Nm
    2. 28553 goes up to 5.0 Nm, but this is a waste, as 5.0 is more torque than is comfortable for someone of ordinary hand strength to apply to a screwdriver.
    Lower torque ranges are available in a couple of different models from Wiha.

    Quote Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
    Magura actually recommends 2-3Nm for those AL clamp bolts, even though they just list 3Nm in the instructions that come with the brakes. I made the mistake of following the 3Nm recommendation when I first installed my MT8's - grabbed my Effetto Mariposa(which is highly accurate) set to 3nm and turned the bolt head off before hitting 3nm.
    It gets better. In tiny print on the clamp edge I now see "4 Nm"! Good thing the bad advice is too inconspicuous for the average mechanic to notice, I guess ...

    Quote Originally Posted by ncfisherman View Post
    Magura was super quick to send out replacement bolts and even spare carbon clamps. All free of charge, even though it was on me.
    I've sent them a plea for help -- we'll see what happens.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Magura MT lever screws -- where to get replacements?-mt_lever_clamp.jpg  


  6. #6
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    If you can figure out the thread pitch and diameter, and can't get the originals from the manufacturer, this place has just about everything you could want: McMaster-Carr

  7. #7
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    Other than how fragile they are, they arealso painfully expensive. Here is what I got from magura.

    Hey Tim,

    We sell the torx nuts in a 10 pack. Cost on these is $30.00. The part number is 0 724 713. You can order these direct through me if needed. I will need all of your shipping and billing information.

    Thanks!
    Corey Steber / Magura Direct
    618-395-2200 ext 235 / Home: MAGURA Direct

  8. #8
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    Honestly, go to your local automotive store such as NAPA or whatever is in your area.

    Torx, hex, triple-square, allen, metric, standard blah blah it's all used in the automotive community and there is absolutely nothing special about those bolts, especially at $30.00/set.

    Bet it costs the company $0.10/per bolt and look what they're being sold for.

  9. #9
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    I stripped out mine as well using a torque wrench assuming that 5NM would be fine and I was more worried about cracking my carbon bars. I am pretty ham-fisted when it comes to things, but the frustrating thing was I was trying to be light and cautious. I guess I will see what they say what they can do for me.

    I don't understand the point on having such a fragile part on a mountain bike. This is the first time I have stripped out the head of a bolt on any of my bikes.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    I don't understand the point on having such a fragile part on a mountain bike. This is the first time I have stripped out the head of a bolt on any of my bikes.
    If you own the MT-8's the reason is weight. It is their weight weenie brake, even though it actually works too. They cut the weight every where to make it absolute minimum weight. This includes the bolts.

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    Quote Originally Posted by 2 Slow View Post
    Honestly, go to your local automotive store such as NAPA or whatever is in your area.

    Torx, hex, triple-square, allen, metric, standard blah blah it's all used in the automotive community and there is absolutely nothing special about those bolts, especially at $30.00/set.

    Bet it costs the company $0.10/per bolt and look what they're being sold for.
    They're a little different than a "normal" bolt. It's basically a sex bolt. Kind of a silly design to be honest, but it is what it is. I tried to take clear pics but macro is not my friend.

    It's threaded on the inside so you get an idea.
    GRAINGER APPROVED VENDOR Barrel Bolt, 1/4-20, Pk5 - Binding Barrels - 5MA20|5MA20 - Grainger Industrial Supply

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    Quote Originally Posted by TBarnaby View Post
    They're a little different than a "normal" bolt. It's basically a sex bolt. Kind of a silly design to be honest, but it is what it is. I tried to take clear pics but macro is not my friend.

    It's threaded on the inside so you get an idea.
    GRAINGER APPROVED VENDOR Barrel Bolt, 1/4-20, Pk5 - Binding Barrels - 5MA20|5MA20 - Grainger Industrial Supply
    Gotcha. So the bolt threads onto a stud.

    Yea I guess you'd need to buy direct in this case.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    I stripped out mine as well using a torque wrench assuming that 5NM would be fine and I was more worried about cracking my carbon bars. I am pretty ham-fisted when it comes to things, but the frustrating thing was I was trying to be light and cautious. I guess I will see what they say what they can do for me.

    I don't understand the point on having such a fragile part on a mountain bike. This is the first time I have stripped out the head of a bolt on any of my bikes.
    Why would you want your levers that tight anyway? I snug mine just enough to keep them from spinning on the bar - so they'll spin rather than break if I crash on them.
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  14. #14
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    Magura USA wrote me back with:

    Please confirm your shipping address and Iíll have a couple sent your way.
    Which strikes me as perfectly appropriate.

    Suggestions for Magura:
    1. Short term, print up some red labels saying "2-3Nm" and slap them on all shroud clamps going out to customers. And include a spare screw with every kit.
    2. Longer term, think through the plight of home mechanics who discover they need a $70 screwdriver to safely adjust their brake levers. Maybe design a more stout screw for the low-end MT-2/4. Alternatively, describe in the manual some low-tech workaround to torque-limiting e.g. dirtyjack's method.

  15. #15
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ecgtheow View Post
    Suggestions for Magura:
    1. Short term, print up some red labels saying "2-3Nm" and slap them on all shroud clamps going out to customers. And include a spare screw with every kit.
    2. Longer term, think through the plight of home mechanics who discover they need a $70 screwdriver to safely adjust their brake levers. Maybe design a more stout screw for the low-end MT-2/4. Alternatively, describe in the manual some low-tech workaround to torque-limiting e.g. dirtyjack's method.
    Agreed.

    I'm a total Magura junkie and I was close to pull the trigger on a set of MT6 or MT4 but reports on stripping bolts and bleed screws definitively make me wait until they are sorted out.

    They're still at the top of my list, though.

    Oh... one more suggestion... offer the MT4 in other colour than hideous white, please. Really, white components are dead. Black is the new black.
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  16. #16
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    Anybody know where to get these other than the $50 for the 10 pack? I keep sending requests to the Magura site and they aren't responding. Did you guys have to call?

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    I wasn't able to find the 10-pack on the US web site, only the UK. So it seems they're not fully geared up to sell them. In my case, sending e-mail to Magura USA acknowledging my own guilt and begging for relief got me what I needed ) Or almost -- the Wiha, now dialed in to 2.2Nm, was another $70.

    As a stopgap, I considered hack-sawing a slot across the top. Maybe the aluminum could handle 2Nm applied by a flat-blade screwdriver.

    BTW, after ~100 miles break-in, modulation is excellent -- the out-of-the-box "squishiness" is gone.

  18. #18
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    It looks like I am having some bolts sent to me as well free of charge. Lesson learned. Thanks Magura!

    I am also loving my brakes so far. At first they were noisy and squishy, but after about 50 hard stops they were bed in and ready to go.

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    Reviving an old thread buuuuut I contacted Magura about this and never got a response. Lame. I've been looking at Titanium Bolts, Aluminum Bolts, Titanium Fasteners, Precision Billet for Ti replacements but cant seem to find the same bolts.

  20. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by cameronhd View Post
    Reviving an old thread buuuuut I contacted Magura about this and never got a response. Lame. I've been looking at Titanium Bolts, Aluminum Bolts, Titanium Fasteners, Precision Billet for Ti replacements but cant seem to find the same bolts.
    Send a PM to Jude Monica here on MTBR.
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  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by dirtyjack View Post
    Send a PM to Jude Monica here on MTBR.
    thanks dude! will do!

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    Jude is very knowledgeable and helpful. I PM'd you the guy that helped me out when I was a little too ham fisted and busted up my bolts. If those guys can't help you out, then let me know. I might have some extras laying around.

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    Quote Originally Posted by tooclosetosee View Post
    Jude is very knowledgeable and helpful. I PM'd you the guy that helped me out when I was a little too ham fisted and busted up my bolts. If those guys can't help you out, then let me know. I might have some extras laying around.
    Just emailed him... keeping my fingers crossed! Thanks!

  24. #24
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    Update - Kent is the man. Got my replacement screws on Sat.

    Props to Magura USA!

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    I somehow managed to shear off the head of the shroud bolt and, in order to remove the remaining piece, unscrewed the stud from the lever that the shroud bolt screws onto. I can't seem to get the stud screwed all the way back in, any ideas on how to screw this the rest of the way in without damaging the threads on the stud?

  26. #26
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    Idea! Plan A

    Quote Originally Posted by sargelicious12 View Post
    I somehow managed to shear off the head of the shroud bolt and, in order to remove the remaining piece, unscrewed the stud from the lever that the shroud bolt screws onto. I can't seem to get the stud screwed all the way back in, any ideas on how to screw this the rest of the way in without damaging the threads on the stud?
    How about fashioning a ~3mm pin -- maybe by cutting off 3mm of a smaller diameter screw. Drop that into another shroud bolt, thread it onto the stud and tighten. So the stud should bottom out before the shroud bolt does.

  27. #27
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    Hi gang, Whomever has a problem with their Magura hardware, give me a buzz and we will send you more at no cost.
    Those original MT back clamp hardware was trick as can be but also finicky. They are totally up to the task but need attention when tightening the back clamp. You need to pay attention to evenly tightening both top and bottom hardware in order to avoid the back clamp from cocking a little and then preventing the tool's tip to get enough "purchase" on the alloy nut. The tool tip area/alloy nut becomes too shallow due to the uneven tightening of the back clamp.
    Then it becomes rather easy to round the dainty pieces.
    We've changed the affair on the new MT Next but they aren't as sexy! Haha.
    No longer a two piece hardware deal that was a steel stud inserted into the MC body, then the alloy "Sex" nut to hold the back clamp onto the studs. They are now just a one piece steel course thread screw in place of the multi piece.

    Let me know and we will send you what is needed.
    Jude

  28. #28
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    Plan A,

    attach 2) 5mm nuts onto the steel stud and lock the two together. Then you can tighten them or remove the stud entirely.

    The two studs are what hold the red "top cap" (on the MT8) to the internal reservoir fyi.
    Jude

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    I just picked up my Cannondale Scalpel 2 last week but before I had the dealer switch the brake sides to right front brake, left rear brake. Well they had to make a longer brake line for the rear and re-bleed everything and after I got the bike home I noticed they had broke one of the lever clamps and stripped the bleed hole on the right brake handle. I haven't gotten a chance to ride the bike yet to try out the brakes but the Magura brakes do seem fragile, or ham fisted mechanics? They are fixing everything free of charge but we will see what happens.

  30. #30
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    Quote Originally Posted by judemonica View Post
    Plan A,
    attach 2) 5mm nuts onto the steel stud and lock the two together. Then you can tighten them or remove the stud entirely.

    The two studs are what hold the red "top cap" (on the MT8) to the internal reservoir fyi.
    Hey Jude, I just got myself a used MT6, and had to replace the lever-bolts right away (former owner broke them in a crash).

    The thing that came to mind was something that I'm allways concerned with - what am I gonna do when one of these breaks during a week-long trip in the mountains?
    Is it feasable to replace the stud/bolt combination with a normal allen-bolt, or is there something more to be kept in mind? Regarding your comment that it holds the top cap for example.

  31. #31
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    You had to replace all four lever bolts, two per side? That was some crash.

    More likely, I'm thinking, is that the previous owner stripped the screw caps when removing them. Which can easily happen, and I did it once. One screw, over 3 years of riding, when changing handlebars.

    I have 3 spare screws. I don't change handlebars on rides, and I've never crashed nearly hard enough to break these stud-screws.

  32. #32
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    No no ... not all of them - just the two screw-caps on one side. Sorry probably didn't use the correct word for them - not a native speaker (I'm from where these brakes come from).

    But nevertheless - those screw-caps seem mighty fragile! This is what I'm afraid of - that I strip one or two of those on a trip. Probably going to need to take spares?

    My idea was simply to replace the things with normal screws, so that this weak point is eliminated.

  33. #33
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    Quote Originally Posted by allrider View Post
    My idea was simply to replace the things with normal screws, so that this weak point is eliminated.
    Not a horrible idea. Jude did explain that in broad terms above, and I haven't done it.

    I do suggest using a t-handled Torx 25 screwdriver and pushing down to ensure good bite. Then of course, don't overtorque the screw caps and use carbon paste if you have carbon handlebars so that the levers don't move easily when you have reasonable clamping force.

  34. #34
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    The tip for dealing with these trick but fragile hardware is to always thread them on good by hand and alternate tightening them evenly.
    They are tapered so (like a car wheel lug nut) they orient the back clamp as they tighten. If you torque one down completely prior to the other, it may orient the back clamp as to not allow the second one to start good with the threads, then can potentially strip its alloy threads against the steel threads of the stud.

    If you pay attention to the back clamp hole oriented with the steel stud, its never a problem.

    That being said, let me know if you would like us to send you a couple back ups.

    Thanks for riding Magura!





    Quote Originally Posted by allrider View Post
    No no ... not all of them - just the two screw-caps on one side. Sorry probably didn't use the correct word for them - not a native speaker (I'm from where these brakes come from).

    But nevertheless - those screw-caps seem mighty fragile! This is what I'm afraid of - that I strip one or two of those on a trip. Probably going to need to take spares?

    My idea was simply to replace the things with normal screws, so that this weak point is eliminated.
    Jude

  35. #35
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    @ColinL @judemonica: Thanks to both of you for the tips!

    By now I've got used to dealing with fragile hardware - thanks to the Formula T1s I've rode before. Those had tiny little m2 alu-screws. Coming from a BMX background that took some time getting used to ;-).

    It's good that you mentioned to tighten both simultaniously. Due to the asymetric shape of the clamp, I assumed that it was meant to be just "closed" on the front-side of the clamp (where the narrow gap is) - and afterwards fastened by tightening the rear screw-cap.

    In regards to sending me replacements @judemonica - I'd gladly accept this kind offer, but I live in Germany. I have to hope that Magura here is just as forthcoming as you guys in America :-).

  36. #36
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    Hi jude.

    My address is:

    #2-1700 Mission Rd
    Vernon BC
    V1T5Z2


    I need only one but 4 would be fantastic.

  37. #37
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    Hey Bigg Rigg, Did we drop the ball or have you received hat you were in need of?

    Let me know and apologies for being tardy!


    Jude


    Quote Originally Posted by Bigg Rigg View Post
    Hi jude.

    My address is:

    #2-1700 Mission Rd
    Vernon BC
    V1T5Z2


    I need only one but 4 would be fantastic.
    Jude

  38. #38
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    I have Magura mt2ís and the lever bolts stripped out and the clamps are all cracked, do you have any bolts and clamps In stock? I tightened them snug but they still rounded. I know this forum is old but this is the only problem Iíve had with my mt2.

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