Magura Marta pad adjustment- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Magura Marta pad adjustment

    Do the Magura Marta brakes offer pad adjustment?

  2. #2
    Meh.
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    No.

    With the exception of old closed system brakes like the old Hopes, I am not aware of any modern open system hydraulic brake that allows you adjust the pad position.

    Avid PCP, Formula FCS, Shimano freestroke, Magura BAT all only adjust where in the lever stroke the brakes begin to engage. They do not affect the pad position.

  3. #3
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    So the only decision we have to solving pad rub is to adjust the wheel, or bend the rotor?

  4. #4
    Riding free's the mind
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    It's been my experience, at least with Avids, that when the pads are new (thicker) it's pretty hard to get 100% of the rub eliminated. The pad/rotor clearance is so small, that it takes some luck to actually get it perfect. Plus the tolerance changes from when you adjust it on the stand versus sitting on the bike weighted down and causing minute flex in the frame/wheels/hub.

    I've heard (and just bought) Magura Martas because they seem to be one of the best in terms of pad rub from all the reviews I've read. From viewing the action of the calipers/pads, both sides equally push-out as compared to my Avids where one pad usually pushes out more than the other.

    I guess I'll prove all this when I get the bike built up and running.
    Question to a custom frame builder..."So what makes your bikes climb better?"....his answer, "Uh, your legs?"

  5. #5
    Just Grin and HUCK it...
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    Quote Originally Posted by nrsnow
    So the only decision we have to solving pad rub is to adjust the wheel, or bend the rotor?
    Pad rub can usually be solved with a few different options:
    1. adjust/shim the caliper to get it centered on the rotor
    2. straighten the rotor (assuming it's bent)
    3. clean the calipers if the pads do not retract properly

    Also, the tightness of the QR can be a contributing factor to brake drag/rub.
    MCM# 2007.1

  6. #6
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    cleaning calipers help

    Quote Originally Posted by SilverSpot
    3. clean the calipers if the pads do not retract properly

    .
    Any tips on how to do this? I have a rear Magura Marta SL's that are dragging big time. I burned up a set pads in about a month of riding.

    Thanks.

    -TD

  7. #7
    kmc
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    fourth option...

    Quote Originally Posted by SilverSpot
    Pad rub can usually be solved with a few different options:
    1. adjust/shim the caliper to get it centered on the rotor
    2. straighten the rotor (assuming it's bent)
    3. clean the calipers if the pads do not retract properly

    Also, the tightness of the QR can be a contributing factor to brake drag/rub.
    If you don't have any shims for the caliper or don't want to have the disc tabs faced on the bike, here is another option...you will need a helper:

    1. Grab the rotor (use a rag so oil from your hands does not get on your rotor) and flex it slightly toward the pad that is rubbing.

    2. Keep the rotor in that position while the helper pumps the lever a couple of times. You need to make sure you have a firm grasp on the rotor.

    3. Let go of the rotor and check the pad position. The pads should now be centered over your rotor position.

    I have owned Martas since 2003 and have to do this when I put new pads in. Works every time and I have no more rub at all. It might take a few tries to get it right, but you can really micro adjust the pad position doing this.

    This was a trick I learned from a Magura race support tech who happened to swing by my LBS. After my LBS learned this, they never used shims.

  8. #8
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    I use the same method outlined above. My first step though is "centralizing the caliper, without pads over the rotor. I try and set it up so that the rotor is exactly in the middle of the caliper body.

    At that point I install the pads and give the lever a number of good pulls to extend the pistons out. If I'm getting rubbing on one side or the other I use the method described. Your rotor will not rub and the pistons will extend evenly.

    I recently switched over to 08 Marta SLs to save the 100 grams over my 08 Hope Mono M4s and have been VERY impressed with their feel, modulation, and power. I have yet to take them on a really, really long descent to test their resistance to fade but so far so good. If they past the long descent test I'll know I have a keeper. I LOVE my M4s and didn't think there was a better brake (if setup and bled properly) but the Martas have been exceeded my expectations so far.

    Goodluck

  9. #9
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    I have only had my 08 Marta SL CFs for about a month (came on a clearance Spec) and used a combo of what was mentioned here to get them centered and so far they are staying that way. I have two wheelsets, and was prepared to shim the rotors of one to keep them both aligned for pain free wheelchanges but did not have to. First I verified all the rotors were flat, and with wheelset one in place, I removed the pads, cleaned then pushed the calipers in all the way with a butter knife. Then I centered the rear rotor in the caliper visually using caliper shims, tightened it down, then replaced the pads. I had to install the pads in front and hold it steady with feeler gauges to keep it centered while tightening. Then I pumped the brakes and verified again with feelerguages I had about the same clearance on both sides. Great. With shims at the ready, I installed wheelset two and pumped the brakes again but when I looked at it, I saw daylight around the pads. A quick feeler gauge confirmed they were clearing well, front and back. Put wheelset one back in, pumped the brakes again, and daylight again. Woopie, I hate messing with brakes so it's good to see that the pads retracted equally around all four rotors. The Stroker Trails on my Anthem would never do this; they are a pain to keep from rubbing with just one wheelset.

    It sounds like a lot of steps, but really, it wasn't.

  10. #10
    fliernh
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    See the Magura web site. In the Tech section they have a Tech Tip "mobilizing marta stuck pistons". My brakes used to drag and I went through this process and the piston popped loose and was great from then on. Same thing happened on the other brake a while later and this fixed it right up.

    It works very close to the process described by KMC above. Both processes push the piston way back in and breaks it free from the seal and allows it to move back to the right position. Bet this fixes your issue. I would not shim before doing this process, if the piston unsticks itself after you have shimmed, you will be unhappy again.
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  11. #11
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    I recently made the switch from Hayes to Marta SL's on my 5.5 EVP. I love em so much I built my new El Guapo with them too. They are the quietest, non-rubbing brakes I've ever had.

    However, I've observed that they are also quite precise in their minimal space between rotor and pad.

    In reading the Magura manual about their special mount facing tool, I decided to pay some attention to this area when setting both bikes up. I was a bit surprised to see how poorly prepared the untouched mounting surfaces really were. Basically, the paint applied to either the ends of the post mounts on my Fox forks, or to the IS mounts welded to the swingarms was enough to cause an ever so slight cocked caliper postion, resulting in slight rubbing. After carefully applying a flat sanding device to squarely "face" each surface, the dreaded rub is non-existent. After this treatment, proper caliper adjustment is done just once, and its as easy as loosening the mounting bolts, squeezing the lever, and tightening the bolts. Ahh, the sounds of silence.

    It's worth checking this area out before moving on to shims and other compensating measures.

  12. #12
    I Tried Them ALL... SuperModerator
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    If you can afford them - Magura Marta SL is one of the best-kept secrets in MTB.
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  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by fliernh
    See the Magura web site. In the Tech section they have a Tech Tip "mobilizing marta stuck pistons". My brakes used to drag and I went through this process and the piston popped loose and was great from then on. Same thing happened on the other brake a while later and this fixed it right up.

    It works very close to the process described by KMC above. Both processes push the piston way back in and breaks it free from the seal and allows it to move back to the right position. Bet this fixes your issue. I would not shim before doing this process, if the piston unsticks itself after you have shimmed, you will be unhappy again.

    thank you very much. I'll try this tonight!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by VTmojo
    thank you very much. I'll try this tonight!

    yup - this will prob set you up

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