Juicy 5 pads not retracting enough.- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
    Howell, MI
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    Juicy 5 pads not retracting enough.

    Help me guys. I'm having a heck of a time setting up these juicy 5's. The rear functions perfectly. The front however always has brake rub going on. They feel great, and have plenty of power. The pads just don't seem to retract enough.

    They have been bled a number of times using the avid syringes. The calipers are centered. What gives?
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  2. #2
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    how did you center the caliper? by sight or by pulling the brake closed with the bolts loose?

  3. #3
    Howell, MI
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    It was centered without the pads in. This is not an alignment issue. It almost feels like it's pumped up. I can push the pads back, but when I do pull the brake a few times it makes contact then only retracts slightly. I have almost instant engagement when i pill the lever.
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  4. #4
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    The pads don't retract in a hydraulic like they do in a cable pull disc brake. They only retract a little bit off the rotor. This may be an alignment issue that is so small you don't notice it. I had this same problem with my juicy 5s and I thought the same thing. But I was wrong.

    So with the pads in, loosen the connecting bolts. Pull the lever on the brake. You don't have to mash down on it, just let the caliper center itself. With the lever pulled tighten the bolts. Then release the lever and torque the bolts to spec.

    It think that will fix the problem for you. This worked for me and I had the same issue. I also thought they weren't retracting enough, but in actually one side was rubbing.

  5. #5
    Howell, MI
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    Quote Originally Posted by mlepito
    The pads don't retract in a hydraulic like they do in a cable pull disc brake. They only retract a little bit off the rotor. This may be an alignment issue that is so small you don't notice it. I had this same problem with my juicy 5s and I thought the same thing. But I was wrong.

    So with the pads in, loosen the connecting bolts. Pull the lever on the brake. You don't have to mash down on it, just let the caliper center itself. With the lever pulled tighten the bolts. Then release the lever and torque the bolts to spec.

    It think that will fix the problem for you. This worked for me and I had the same issue. I also thought they weren't retracting enough, but in actually one side was rubbing.
    All my brakes are hydro's Hope Mono Mini's, and the Avids. I don't expect they will pull back a great deal. I've used your alignment method, and it works perfectly when the pads retract like they do on the rear. I have almost zero retraction on the front. I did try it, but it made no difference. Pistons must be sticking.
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  6. #6
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    double post. see below

  7. #7
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    Yea, that sounds like a problem in the caliper or maybe even in the lever it its not letting the pressure off. Juicy 5's don't have any pad adjustment or anything. Is this a new set? I had an issue once with a bb7 caliper that had no power. The caliper was faulty so avid replaced it for me.

  8. #8
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    Hey everyone, I am having similar issues with my elixir CR's. I have loosened the bolts, spun the wheel, engaged the brakes and finally tightened the bolts while the lever is still pulled. I have done this many times and the pad just seems to sit right up against the rotor on one side while the other side has quite a gap. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. I am almost to the point of ebaying these brakes.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by fsr1
    All my brakes are hydro's Hope Mono Mini's, and the Avids. I don't expect they will pull back a great deal. I've used your alignment method, and it works perfectly when the pads retract like they do on the rear. I have almost zero retraction on the front. I did try it, but it made no difference. Pistons must be sticking.
    Any chance that you did a bleed with 1/2 worn pads and now have new pads? If so, you may need to take a little fluid out of the system.

    Jabone...it sounds like you have a sticky piston that needs freed up.

  10. #10
    Howell, MI
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    You will just need to force the rotor hard toward the side that is rubbing. while doing this pull the lever a couple of times. this should help even the gap.

    Mark
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  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by jabone
    Hey everyone, I am having similar issues with my elixir CR's. I have loosened the bolts, spun the wheel, engaged the brakes and finally tightened the bolts while the lever is still pulled. I have done this many times and the pad just seems to sit right up against the rotor on one side while the other side has quite a gap. Any other suggestions would be appreciated. I am almost to the point of ebaying these brakes.
    In this situation where you have the gap you need, just not where you want it; make sure you aren't pulling the lever too hard when centering the caliper. I found that if I really mash down on the lever, it makes it rub on one side when I'm done. I don't know why that is. But if I center it with just moderat pressure on the lever, it centers just fine.

  12. #12
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    Anyways, i tried the method of pushing the piston in as shown in the manual and as a result chipped the brake pad on the edge. I pulled the pads out and flexed the lever. What is a safe way to get the pistons back in without messing them up? Also, since this is already done, should i rub a little chain oil on the pistons to perhaps make them snap back better?

    Thanks,

  13. #13
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    Fixing a sticky hydraulic piston

    1) I use a 10mm open box wrench to wedge the piston that is out the farthest to hold it in place
    2) I pump the brakes forcing the other (stuck) piston out
    3) I use alcohol and a tooth brush and clean the exposed piston
    4) Let it dry and put a very little lubricant on the sides of the piston (I use white lightening)
    5) Do a standard (i.e., two syringe) bleed of the system **
    6) Make sure the pistons are each extended an equal distance when I reinstall the caliper on the disc.

    ** Often these problems are related to the hydraulic system needing bled versus the piston being stuck. The hydraulic action which pushes on the piston also sucks the piston back when you let up on the brake lever. As the hydraulic system becomes contaminated with air or loss of fluid, one of the pistons stops actuating properly and starts to "stick". For a while you can negate the problem by re-centering the rotor. However as the problem worsens eventually you will either 1) run out of caliper adjustment room, or 2) the piston starts constantly rubbing on the rotor because it will no longer retract enough to give you clearance.
    Last edited by MarkHL; 11-10-2009 at 06:24 PM.

  14. #14
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    I've used this stuff to flush the grime off the pistons that didn't want to move like I thought they should. Not sure if that is it's intended use but worked for me.

    http://www.universalcycles.com/shopp...s.php?id=17638

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