Juicy 3 vs Juicy 5 -real differences ?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Juicy 3 vs Juicy 5 -real differences ?

    I did some research but I can't find the answer, what are the real differences between these two brakes ? I've heard hose is mounted to the caliper in a different way on the 3's. Any more real differences, that I can notice in practice ? Sram www says only that it has little less power, where does this difference come form? different piston size or only one piston is moving? Are they shipped with worse pads ?

    I really can't find any concrete info about this brakes....
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  2. #2
    Meh.
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    The caliper is a cheaper casting. It uses an in-line fitting rather than a banjo. The lever is not split clamp. The lever looses the "pop-out" feature. The ability for the lever to hyper extend helps prevent or isolate damage in a crash.

    Both brakes are opposing two piston.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    The caliper is a cheaper casting. It uses an in-line fitting rather than a banjo. The lever is not split clamp. The lever looses the "pop-out" feature. The ability for the lever to hyper extend helps prevent or isolate damage in a crash.

    Both brakes are opposing two piston.
    ok, finally some precise info, thanks!!!
    but I still ahve doubts:

    1. The caliper is a cheaper casting - waht does it mean in practice? Is it going to fall apart? Difference in power ? looks worse ?
    2. It uses an in-line fitting rather than a banjo. - i don't understand - is this about the hose fitting to caliper?
    3. The lever looses the "pop-out" feature. The ability for the lever to hyper extend helps prevent or isolate damage in a crash. - I have Juice 5's for 2 seasons now and I crashed, hitting with the levers into sth, quite a few times and the only thing that really helped them was the fact that I do not tightem them too much on the bar so they can turn around it. I haven't notice a lever being in the pop-out position after a crash... or maybe I missed it ? I thought the popo-out feature is used during bleeding (manual says so and I did so) so how is it done in case of 3's if one cannon isolate caliper from lever by extending it ?
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  4. #4
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    Uh... I've never used it during bleeding... The pushrod is seperate from the MC... so rather than trashing both... you're at most out a lever and a pushrod, but not an MC.

    Yes, the hose fitting to the caliper.

    Not as nice, probably heavier, probably more flex (thus less power).

    Having worked in a shop and worked on both. I would say the J3 is definitely a step down.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Uh... I've never used it during bleeding... The pushrod is seperate from the MC... so rather than trashing both... you're at most out a lever and a pushrod, but not an MC..
    hmm ok I get it

    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL

    Not as nice, probably heavier, probably more flex (thus less power).
    ok so maybe this is the reason for less power ....

    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    Having worked in a shop and worked on both. I would say the J3 is definitely a step down.
    Did you ride both? What;s the comparison in practice ?
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  6. #6
    No Fear
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    Hows that push rod - MC isolation from each other . Can you explane it more mechanically ? and whats its pros and nos?

  7. #7
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    The pros are that you isolate damage... I thought I made that fairly clear. And since you don't seem to get that it's not one piece...


    Pushrod and cup assembly. Pushrod is inserted into the cup. When it's hyperextend, the push rod pulls out. The pushrod is not permanently attached to the MC.


    This is a Hayes MC... The pushrod is part of the entire cartridge.

  8. #8
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    ive got juicy 3s and an 8 inch front rotor, as far as power goes ive never had to squeeze hard to stop yet which is good enough for me

  9. #9
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    hmmm that sounds quite promising, what kind of riding do you do, maybe some DH? Do you have comparison to any other hydraulic brakes ?

    I'll be getting this with the bike and I don't know whether it's worth to change them right away....
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  10. #10
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    my old hardtail had mechanical disc brakes, they werent bad but thease juicy 3s are more comfortable, you just have to squeeze a little and the bike stops, i ride all over the place dirt, dirt hills, roads, dirt tacks, rocky terrain, the only think i dont dont do is severe jumps or drops i dont think my fs xc bike could take the pounding, for me the main diference between the juicy 3s and the 5s and 7s are there are less bells and whistles and bling with them, they just sit there and they work well, to be perfectly honest with you though id be just as happy with a good set of v brakes, hydro discs were originally for downhillers but the technology leaked down to all mtb variables and most of us dont need them, the thing is people like gadgets and gismos and the latest tech stuff not to mention big rotors etc look really cool, i have no problem with the juicy 3s, try them first, if you dont like them, then you can change them

  11. #11
    lurkio
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    I've found the power is about the same as the 5, but as will says, cheaper construction and heavier etc. I reckon they will all break (no pun) given the same abuse, but the cheaper versions are always more difficult and expensive to repair and maintain.
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  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by darkest_fugue
    my old hardtail had mechanical disc brakes, they werent bad but thease juicy 3s are more comfortable, you just have to squeeze a little and the bike stops, i ride all over the place dirt, dirt hills, roads, dirt tacks, rocky terrain, the only think i dont dont do is severe jumps or drops i dont think my fs xc bike could take the pounding, for me the main diference between the juicy 3s and the 5s and 7s are there are less bells and whistles and bling with them, they just sit there and they work well, to be perfectly honest with you though id be just as happy with a good set of v brakes, hydro discs were originally for downhillers but the technology leaked down to all mtb variables and most of us dont need them, the thing is people like gadgets and gismos and the latest tech stuff not to mention big rotors etc look really cool, i have no problem with the juicy 3s, try them first, if you dont like them, then you can change them
    I would disagree with the no need for discs idea. My favorite area to ride (Dark Peak UK) is a well known brake killer. You could wear out several sets of v-brake pads in a few hours, not to mention rims.
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  13. #13
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    ive also forgotten weight issues, im light and a smooth rider, a good set of V brakes equipped with cool stop pads is more than enough for me, as i said before hydro disks were originally for downhill bikes, i suspect Dark Peak has plenty of downhill sections? thus hydro discs would be better, for the riding i do my hydro discs are overkill but they are fun,

    theres an urban hill in my neighbourhood im training on, very high very steep, not much fun going up but going down ive passed out cars, i must be nearing 50 at the bottom and i still dont need to squeeze too hard, i suspect the 180 rotor on the front helps things along

  14. #14
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    Parts for the J3 are no more expensive than the J5 or J7. I've had one set of J7s since 2004 and have had no issues with it.

    I think the J7s have a better lever feel and overall performance.

    Discs offer more consistent braking performance, regardless of wobbles in the rim, dirt, mud, rain, etc.

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