Increasing Mech. Disc lever pull- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 8 of 8
  1. #1
    MTB Withdrawal
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    89

    Increasing Mech. Disc lever pull

    I replaced my integrated shifter/lever set with seperate shifters and levers (upgrading my shifters in the process). The only problem is, I ended up with pretty darn old Tektro levers. Well, maybe not that old. My LBS had several pairs of them on some bikes they had built up running V-brakes, and the pull and feeling was very nice.

    I instaled them this afternoon and then promptly had to put some pulleys back on my RD that had decided to unscrew themselves. That was rather akin to playing with a mousetrap. I set them up kinda-sorta about an hour ago, and I'm about to call it a night. I replaced my handlebars and stem today too, so I don't have my grips or bar-ends back on yet. Perhaps thats a good thing:

    I'm running my "new" levers on Hayes MX-1s, from which I was able to get a good pull out of my old integrated levers. If I set up my pads for optimal clearance, I have to pull the levers just about all the way to my bare, gripless handlebar to get my wheels to lock up, and the levers still keep going long after its locked up. If I set up my levers for a good 2-finger pull, the pads rub pretty badly, and keep on going for a while too.

    Is there any way I can increase my lever pull without getting new levers? I worked an 8-hour shift at my LBS in exchange for these parts, so I can probably take the levers back and exchange them for a pair that would work. Unfortunately, a good deal of their stuff dates back from the 80's, so finding a pair of Avids or something is gonna take a while. I found a single AD3 lever the other day, but I couldn't locate its mate.

    Of interest: these levers have the receptacle for the beadish thing on the end of the cable molded into the lever, whereas all the other levers I've ever used have that bracketish thing that's hinged. Would this have anything to do with the lever pull? I've also noticed that the MX-1s seem to require a longer than normal pull compared to the MX-2s and V-brakes. (I've got all three in my family's bike lineup)
    ^^^^^^^^^^
    Completely off topic, please ignore.

  2. #2
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    Make sure the caliper is square. Make sure there is good tension on the cable with the barrel adjusters just a couple turns out. Adjust the inboard pad (closest to the wheel) as close to the rotor as possible without rubbing. Then adjust cable tension as neccesary to set the position of the outboard or dynamic pad.

    If you can't figure it out, bring it to your LBS.

  3. #3
    Nouveau Retrogrouch SuperModerator
    Reputation: shiggy's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 1998
    Posts
    48,236
    You may have canti levers (less pull than V levers). The Travel Agent adaptors cost as much as or more than the proper levers and do not work as well.
    mtbtires.com
    The trouble with common sense is it is no longer common

  4. #4
    MTB Withdrawal
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    89
    So, I should bring them back and go through the boxes upon boxes of levers and try to find some V-brake levers I like then?

    These identical levers worked fine on V-brakes though...
    ^^^^^^^^^^
    Completely off topic, please ignore.

  5. #5
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    If it's the same levers, you have a setup issue. Ask one of the guys at the shop to take a look at it.

  6. #6
    MTB Withdrawal
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    89
    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    If it's the same levers, you have a setup issue. Ask one of the guys at the shop to take a look at it.
    Quite frankly, I'm doing this myself because only one other guy at my LBS knows how to work disc brakes (mech and hydros), and I think he graduated this year. The other guys are roadies and a few BMX guys.

    I think I know enough about mechanical discs to be able to set this up. My current brakes are upgrades anyways, and when I work off parts at my LBS, I end up doing quite a bit of mechanical disc work.

    My guess is that the MX-1s have a longer than normal throw needed to contact the rotor. I tried to set up my brakes so that the pads were aligned and the rotor was as close to the stationary pad as possible and the piston was as close as possible as well, but this still had a really long lever throw.

    So, I guess I might just have to find some levers that are pull more cable then. Or, I might not be as cheap as I have been towards upgrades. How are the Avid FR-5s or the SD7 levers?
    ^^^^^^^^^^
    Completely off topic, please ignore.

  7. #7
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    http://www.parktool.com/repair/readhowto.asp?id=124

    Instructions for an Avid, but same concept.

    I don't think that the caliper has anything to do with it.

  8. #8
    MTB Withdrawal
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Posts
    89
    Well, that settles that. I got the brakes set up for an acceptable pull without drag, but not quite at the 2 finger stopping amount.

    And then... I snapped my derailleur hanger when my RD got sucked into the spokes (it was a little bent already). Thankfully, my new derailleur is still fine... I think. Perhaps its a good thing that it snapped instead of being mangled.
    ^^^^^^^^^^
    Completely off topic, please ignore.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.