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  1. #1
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    How long to break in new pads?

    I just had to replace the rear pads on my 11 month Stroker Grams. Over this time, I have had a terrible time getting the rear brakes to stop dragging and screaming. In May, after having at least 6 different mechanics work with out success on the brakes, I emailed Hayes. They sent me a spacer to put under the rear rotor.

    I removed the rotor and re-installed the rotor with the spacer underneath. Well, it worked! No more brake drag. BUT, I did still have a terrible brake scream. At that point, I just ignored it as it wasn't dragging anymore.

    This month, I took my bike in to have my wheels trued and the mechanic asked if I still had the brake noise. I told him about the spacer which removed the drag and the continued noise. He suggested that the rotor might not be on tight enough. He was right! Now I had no more noise or drag. All was finally right in my mountain bike world.

    Well, I had to have the rear brake pads replaced this week, I suppose due to having 8 months of continuous brake drag, and now the brake drag is back. I did a short 8mile ride last night and I felt like I was dragging a trailer up the hill. Is this brake drag normal with new pads? How long will this brake drag last and how long to break in the new pads?

  2. #2
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    i broke in new brake pads on one ride. I did a 3 miles climb to 2000 footy and rode straight back down. Brake pads burned off any grease/residue about 4 minutes into the descent. By the time I got down, brakes were good to go.

    Regarding the rubbing, it could be alignment issues. My new pads never rubbed against the rotors at all.

  3. #3
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    Couple things to check. Make sure to reset the pistons in the caliper, as the brake pads wear they come out further so that when a new set of pads is installed there won't be enough clearance, thus the drag. Get a large slot screwdriver, remove the wheel and stick the screwdriver in between the pads to wedge them apart. Wiggle and move it around a bit to make sure all the pistons are fully pushed back into the caliper. Then put the wheel back in, DO NOT squeeze the lever, and see if the pads are still rubbing on the rotor.

    If they're still rubbing it's likely an alignment issue, make sure that the caliper is on straight and the rotor is centered between the pads. Spin the wheel to check for drag and if everything's good then pump the lever a few times to bring the pads to the correct distance. This usually takes care of rubbing and drag issues.

    As for breaking in new pads, a half dozen hard stops usually does the trick.

  4. #4
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    I do a few hard stops on the street in front of my house, just so I have *some* brakes on the first downhill, then after one ride they're broken in and working consistently.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by aerius View Post
    Couple things to check. Make sure to reset the pistons in the caliper, as the brake pads wear they come out further so that when a new set of pads is installed there won't be enough clearance, thus the drag. Get a large slot screwdriver, remove the wheel and stick the screwdriver in between the pads to wedge them apart. Wiggle and move it around a bit to make sure all the pistons are fully pushed back into the caliper. Then put the wheel back in, DO NOT squeeze the lever, and see if the pads are still rubbing on the rotor.

    If they're still rubbing it's likely an alignment issue, make sure that the caliper is on straight and the rotor is centered between the pads. Spin the wheel to check for drag and if everything's good then pump the lever a few times to bring the pads to the correct distance. This usually takes care of rubbing and drag issues.

    As for breaking in new pads, a half dozen hard stops usually does the trick.

    This is great advice. I have not had a chance to see if it helps to making sure the pads are fully pushed back into the caliper. I did look at them last night after my ride and the rotor does look to be centered between the pads so I don't think that it is an alignment issue. The old pads were really worn down so I would not be surprised if the pads are not fully pushed into the caliper. The rotor does not appear to have much room between the pads so I suppose it could also be slightly warped.

  6. #6
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    hey

    I need help with a adapter i just bought fox shocks and i have hayes disc brakes is there a certain adapter for these>? because when i put my caliper on it is about a inch away from where it should be to thread in the bolts. Any help?

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by robob View Post
    I need help with a adapter i just bought fox shocks and i have hayes disc brakes is there a certain adapter for these>? because when i put my caliper on it is about a inch away from where it should be to thread in the bolts. Any help?
    You'll get more attention if you start your own thread where people can see that you are asking a question rather than responding to one on breaking in brakes.

    If you start a new thread with the question plus information (what fork, what brakes, what size rotor, what are you replacing), I'd be happy to help and I'm sure many more people would too.
    2012 Intense M9
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  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by robob View Post
    I need help with a adapter i just bought fox shocks and i have hayes disc brakes is there a certain adapter for these>? because when i put my caliper on it is about a inch away from where it should be to thread in the bolts. Any help?
    Robob,

    I have a F-32 140 mm fit RLC fork w/15 mm through axel and I am using Hayes 180 mm brake rotors. The adapter that I have looks like this one: http://www.blueskycycling.com/produc...Post-Mount.htm

    You need to do a search based on your fork and the Hayes brake rotor size. AND, if all else fails you can email Hayes Brakes at hayestech@hayesbrake.com. Good luck.

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