How to hone in the tuning?- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    How to hone in the tuning?

    I've got a set of XTR that I got in the mail (bought on ridemonkey) so far disappointment they both needed to be bled and the front rotor was out of true. Anyway I just gave the front one a bleed I ran a full 10 cc though the front line just to make sure there were NO bubbles let. When I got done I checked out the stopping the lever gets with in 1/4" to the grips before full lock up.

    Is there a way to make the levers stiffer? So that less pull on the levels is needed for lockup?
    I'm looking for a shorter sweep from no braking to full lockup.

    The pads don't need replacing, and I know about adjustment hex on the on the levers but when I get I get them to full lock up far enough on the grips that I'm happy I'm pulling on the lever with the VERY tips of my fingers.
    I mountain bike like a dirty $lut, wherever I can get it, whenever I can get it, and the harder it is the better.

  2. #2
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    Have you checked that the caliper is aligned and that both pistons are operating properly? If the rotor is not plumb between that pads the action of one of them having to move further would cause excessive lever travel.

    That said, you really don't want your brakes to be locking up so easily; it's certainly not the sign of a good brake. Perhaps it's your perspective which needs adjustment?

    What use is a philosopher who doesn't hurt anybody's feelings? -
    Diogenes


  3. #3
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    I just addressed this same problem.
    What you have to realize is that there is a lot of pullback on the pistons. This is a good thing as it ensures you will never have any drag even if things get a bit mucky.
    You can get earlier engagement but it will be at the cost of some pad to disc clearance.
    I wanted mine to engage a bit sooner so here is what I did.
    Take the yellow shimano bleed block and sand it down a bit on either side. I did this with a piece of sandpaper on a granite tile. You don't want to take off much. Then use this bleed block to rebleed the brakes. This should take out some of the free play before engagement.

  4. #4
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    Rather than shaving down the block, although thats what I'll try next. Is that the same thing/similar to using a business card on either side of a rotor and bleeding the brakes that way?
    I mountain bike like a dirty $lut, wherever I can get it, whenever I can get it, and the harder it is the better.

  5. #5
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    Wow I feel dumb. What I need to do is put shims/washers on the hex screws that hold the calipers on the tabs. Where can I buy those?
    I mountain bike like a dirty $lut, wherever I can get it, whenever I can get it, and the harder it is the better.

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by chaostactics
    Wow I feel dumb. What I need to do is put shims/washers on the hex screws that hold the calipers on the tabs. Where can I buy those?

    IS 51mm mount shims most LBS will have them, i believe Jesons, or chain reaction have them as well....Brake small parts or spares.

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