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  1. #1
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    Hayes rubbing... can't figure this one out

    I have the old Hayes HFX Mags on my bike. Recently I switched front wheels, from a King hub to a Real hub. Fork is the same (05 Vanilla R). With the King hub I had to put washers under the rotor to move it out enough to get it to run drag free. Now I have the exact same problem with the Real hub. It's like the brake mount doesn't move enough to allow for correct adjustment.

    Now I don't mind putting washers under the rotor again. But it seems like I shouldn't have to. Is there another solution for this problem?

    Also, is this something I would be able to overcome with the Avid CPS? I've been thinking about Juicys because these Hayes have been nothing but trouble for me...

  2. #2
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    You can put spacers between the adapter and the IS tabs. It's a fairly common problem. Two brands might manufacture something to the opposite further ends of tolerances. No big deal.

    The CPS can correct issues with allignment and facing problems, but if it's WAY off, then it's going to be the same.

    I went from Hayes HFX-9s to the newer Hayes Mag levers with the last G1 calipers to Avid Juicy 7s. I don't regret it one bit.

  3. #3
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    If I had a half millimeter more adjustment, there would be no issue. But I'm not very happy with these brakes anyway, so I may just spring for the Juicy...

  4. #4
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    Just space the adapter over with some small washers. Or you can even take a drill bit to open up those slots a little bit more.

  5. #5
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    He means Dremmel not drill.

  6. #6
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    I'll try the washers for now... I'm not confident I could open those slots up without screwing something up.

    Now if I could just get a good bleed on the back brake...

  7. #7
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    Whats wrong with the rear brake?

  8. #8
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    Well, I think it's just that it hasn't been bled correctly. But basically, the last 2 seasons after the bike hasn't been ridden for awhile the rear lever goes to the bar. I never find any leaks, or at least I haven't so far, nor any evidence that fluid has been leaking. After a bleed, it's good again, but it seems odd to me that it would be fine for a season and then 2 months off causes this. So I don't really know what to think.

    Currently I'm operating under the assumption that I haven't bled it correctly yet. I was jerry-rigging the bleed setup with a syringe and various other automotive parts, but for the next one I will have the Hayes bleed kit. Although the front was fine with my old setup...

    Anyway, we'll see in a couple days.

  9. #9
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    It could be the master is failing, i had one do that & it finally died after about 3 years. It had a rough life came off a pro DH bike about 7 years ago so it was a old school master. If you have the old pre 2000 year master the rebuild kit is not available any more. I belive you can order the master assembly seperatly. Im shure your makeshift setup is doing a fine job, i have done it both ways & it's a tie.

  10. #10
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    I assume if it is the master, I will not be able to get it to work correctly no matter how much I bleed it? I don't have a clue what year these brakes are, is there a way to tell for sure?

    The main difference (I hope) is that I don't have the Hayes fitting with my makeshift setup. I'm hoping that will make some difference.

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowride
    I assume if it is the master, I will not be able to get it to work correctly no matter how much I bleed it? I don't have a clue what year these brakes are, is there a way to tell for sure?

    The main difference (I hope) is that I don't have the Hayes fitting with my makeshift setup. I'm hoping that will make some difference.
    Thats the funny thing being from moto i would assume the master to fail, but is seamed to survive for awhile with yearly bleedings. If it looks like the pic it's old school. The differance is the cylinder that slides into the housing has a flat side that does'nt fit the old style, foolish change.

    As long as the fluid going in has no air the fluid going out shouldnt have air in the tube. You can pump the fluid out & back through the bleed hose as long as you keep the air out of the master. I found air hose from a fish store works really good, does'nt get eaten as quickly by the DOT fluid as the Hayes supplied hose.
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  12. #12
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    Alright, cool. Hopefully a new bleed will work then.

    My lever has the 2-bolt mounting setup, I think they are the flip-flop levers?

    Thanks!

  13. #13
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    Well, finally got my bleed kit, and just got done bleeding the brake. Seems like it's working again, although I may it do it once more just to be sure, as I didn't care much for the Hayes squeeze bottle (is it just me, or does it seem like it should have more volume?)

    Anyway, three cheers for having brakes again!

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowride
    Well, finally got my bleed kit, and just got done bleeding the brake. Seems like it's working again, although I may it do it once more just to be sure, as I didn't care much for the Hayes squeeze bottle (is it just me, or does it seem like it should have more volume?)

    Anyway, three cheers for having brakes again!
    Its a very small diameter hose, the caliper & resivor are not that large a volume. ya the bottle sucks. Some people use a syringe you can get at the super market in the baby or cooking sections.

  15. #15
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    Yeah, I've got a couple of those around. I meant the squeeze bottle should be bigger... I had it crushed almost flat when I was doing the last bit with the lever, and then trying to close the bleed valve without sucking air back in.

    Oh well, as long as I have brakes I'm happy.

  16. #16
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    Do it with a BIG medical supply syringe next time. It's so much easier, and provides better results.

  17. #17
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    ok!

    Just got back from a ride, and I noticed that my lever was starting to feel mushy again. Luckily it was dusty out at Palos today, because now I've noticed a leak in my rear hose. It appears to have been caused by the cable guide (the leak is on the seatstay on the rear side of a Giant AC, so the cable would be moving in this guide as the suspension goes up and down).

    Obviously I'm going to replace the hose, but I'm wondering how I would prevent this from happening again. Maybe plastic inserts or something like that, so the hose is not directly contacting metal?

  18. #18
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowride
    Just got back from a ride, and I noticed that my lever was starting to feel mushy again. Luckily it was dusty out at Palos today, because now I've noticed a leak in my rear hose. It appears to have been caused by the cable guide (the leak is on the seatstay on the rear side of a Giant AC, so the cable would be moving in this guide as the suspension goes up and down).

    Obviously I'm going to replace the hose, but I'm wondering how I would prevent this from happening again. Maybe plastic inserts or something like that, so the hose is not directly contacting metal?
    Palos? Are you in Illinois?

    That typically doesn't happen too often, but you can wrap your hose in a bit of electrical tape where it's contacting the frame.

  19. #19
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    Yes, I'm in the Chicago area, at least for now (I keep thinking about moving west).

    Electrical tape... that's a good idea. Thanks!

  20. #20
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    I use Spiral wrap on all contact points, easy to work with & looks good.

    http://www.action-electronics.com/jtsw.htm

  21. #21
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowride
    Yes, I'm in the Chicago area, at least for now (I keep thinking about moving west).

    Electrical tape... that's a good idea. Thanks!
    I'm in Naperville, I don't really have a "trail" bike anymore, but hit me up if you want to ride sometime.

  22. #22
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    Cool. I've got some serious fitness to regain before I start riding in groups again though...

  23. #23
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    Hey, I'm still trying to relearn everything on a hardtail. It's all good.

  24. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by slowride
    Cool. I've got some serious fitness to regain before I start riding in groups again though...
    He just like to beat up on older people, be carefull

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