Hayes 9 Rear Disk Rubbing- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Hayes 9 Rear Disk Rubbing

    I just got a "like new" Kona Stinky and the back disk brake is rubbing just a little bit. I can barely feel any resistance and it rubs on about 1/3 of the disk. The brakes are Hayes 9s. I have no knowledge of disks, my last bike had linear pull brakes. I checked the Hayes site, but they didn't have anything there.

    Should I just take them in to my shop, or is there a simpler solution? Thanks for any help.

  2. #2
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    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
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    Your rotor is warped. Read the FAQ in the top right corner for how to true rotors.

    You may need to center the caliper. Loosen the two bolts that attach the caliper to the adapter (not the adapter to the frame) so that the caliper can slide side to side a bit. Pump the lever a few times and squeeze. While holding the lever, alternately tighten the two bolts a little at a time. Make sure the caliper does not shift. Spin the wheel. Repeat if it's still dragging. This may take you a few tries.

  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by XSL_WiLL
    You may need to center the caliper. Loosen the two bolts that attach the caliper to the adapter (not the adapter to the frame) so that the caliper can slide side to side a bit. Pump the lever a few times and squeeze. While holding the lever, alternately tighten the two bolts a little at a time. Make sure the caliper does not shift. Spin the wheel. Repeat if it's still dragging. This may take you a few tries.
    A slight modification of the caliper centering technique described by Will often produces quicker results. Loosen the caliper bolts as described by Will, but prior to squeezing the brake lever, place a business card in between each pad and the rotor. Then squeeze the lever and continue with the procedure as descibed by Will.

    My OE HFX-9s frequently have one piston that wants to stick more than the other and sometimes even this modified technique fails to produce good results. (The "dominant" piston ends up pushing the caliper off to one side.) When that happens, I remove the brake pads and push the pistons back in their bores using a 10mm box wrench (being careful not to bend the center pin). Once the pistons are pushed all the way back, I put the pads back in and loosen the caliper bolts. I then put two business cards (if possible) on each side of the rotor. This centers the caliper slot on the rotor. Do not squeeze the brake lever at this point. Just tighten the caliper bolts a little at a time, alternating between each bolt.

  4. #4
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    Reputation: MikeDee's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KevinB
    A slight modification of the caliper centering technique described by Will often produces quicker results. Loosen the caliper bolts as described by Will, but prior to squeezing the brake lever, place a business card in between each pad and the rotor. Then squeeze the lever and continue with the procedure as descibed by Will.

    My OE HFX-9s frequently have one piston that wants to stick more than the other and sometimes even this modified technique fails to produce good results. (The "dominant" piston ends up pushing the caliper off to one side.) When that happens, I remove the brake pads and push the pistons back in their bores using a 10mm box wrench (being careful not to bend the center pin). Once the pistons are pushed all the way back, I put the pads back in and loosen the caliper bolts. I then put two business cards (if possible) on each side of the rotor. This centers the caliper slot on the rotor. Do not squeeze the brake lever at this point. Just tighten the caliper bolts a little at a time, alternating between each bolt.
    I've heard of the business card trick, but I've tried it several times and it doesn't seem to accomplish anything. Presumably it's supposed to give you a little more gap between the pads and the rotor, but when I pull out the business cards, the pistons just move in that much further anyway.

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