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Thread: hayes 9 fade?

  1. #1
    the giant.
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    hayes 9 fade?

    i love the feel of my hayes nine brakes. but they fade horribly. i lose almost all my power on a short 1 min steep dh.

    i dont have the money for new brakes, so thats out of the question (i love the feel of hydros and will stay hydros, they just too expensive for my budget)

    is there a way to fix this a little? the back brake has noo power at all (i cant even skid) and the front is amazing, but it fades fast. is there a compound of brake pad that gives more power and stays powerful?

    im 175lbs and running front and rear 8" rotors already.....

  2. #2
    ride hard take risks
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    Remove the pads and deglaze them unless they are worn then replace.

    Clean the rotor with alcohol or brake/contact clean.

    Replace the brake fluid.
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  3. #3
    the giant.
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    the pads are less than a month old. so they arent worn. but ill give them a light sanding to deglaze them

    and ill be sure to give the rotors a light sanding to get a good clean finish.

    and then wait a few rides and see if there are differences.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbosbiker
    and then wait a few rides and see if there are differences.
    Bleed the brakes your fluid is old
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  5. #5
    the giant.
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    the brakes were bled when i put in new pads a month ago.

    i bought the bike used and each brake like had a hole in it. so i got new pads and lines. so the fluid is new.....

  6. #6
    Live 2 Ride
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    Quote Originally Posted by dogonfr
    Bleed the brakes your fluid is old
    Makes no sense. They use the same fluid as a car and we don't change out the brake fluid in a car every time something goes wrong.
    My Bike: '18 Giant Talon 3 29er
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  7. #7
    Meh.
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    Less thermal mass in a bike brake than in a car. And most cars are not driven very aggressively anyways...

    Bleed the brakes. If the brake fluid is old stock that had been sitting opened or cracked on the shelves, it's no good. Glycol based DOT fluid is hygroscopic.

    You can try a semi metallic pad or something.

  8. #8
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    if your fluid is bad your lever feel will change dramatically, lever pegs the bar.. feels mushy and vague, etc. if it feels exactly the same but your bike just stops braking, you have a pad/rotor problem.

    sounds like your rear definitely needs a bleed. 9's should lock up the rear with a 6 inch rotor and another 50lbs on you.. is the front going mushy?

  9. #9
    the giant.
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    nothing is mushy at all. they feel the same no matter if i descended for 30 second or a full on mountain decent that takes an hour.

    on the back rotor it look is "baked" on like grease or something. it was like that when i got the bike. but ill give both rotors and pads a light sanding to deglaze them and get any junk off the rotors (and i know 9's should have more power in the rear because my friend has 9's on the back of his dh bike with 6 in rotors.....)

  10. #10
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    If the pads are burnt then save your time and get some Semi Metallic pads and clean your rotor. If your using the brakes enough to burn the pads the fluid lust may be toast also.

    Did you bleed the brakes or a shop??
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  11. #11
    the giant.
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    im new to hydro's so i had my lbs do the bleed.

    the rain has let up here to im gunna go clean up my brakes the best i can and go for a quick run to brake in the pads again and look for a difference.

    and the fluid in the back is 2 weeks old. the brass fitting that goes in the hose at the lever wasnt pushed in enough so it leaked, and the shop fixed it for me and re-bled. so the back shouldnt need a bleed.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by gbosbiker
    im new to hydro's so i had my lbs do the bleed.

    the rain has let up here to im gunna go clean up my brakes the best i can and go for a quick run to brake in the pads again and look for a difference.

    and the fluid in the back is 2 weeks old. the brass fitting that goes in the hose at the lever wasnt pushed in enough so it leaked, and the shop fixed it for me and re-bled. so the back shouldnt need a bleed.
    Dont drag the brakes on and off pumping to allow cool off time.
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  13. #13
    the giant.
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    the one spot i lose braking power is a very steep hill with a spot in the middle that you HAVE to go slow over otherwise you die. and its a 30 hill to that point and i have to hold my brakes to be able to slow down. and after that point i let them go and hit like 40 in 3 seconds. its a steep hill....and after about a min, i hit street and im still going around 40 and thats when i noticed the fade...

    but i pulled off the pads and rotors and got any glaze off the pads, and sanded down the rotors until they shined with no black let of them. i went to that same hill and the first time i expected weak brakes (getting them to set in) and after about the 3rd time down it my brakes (front and rear) were working MUCH better, and there was still fade, but not nearly as much, and im still comfortable with the amount of power with the fading....

    the front brake is pretty touchy now...itll take some getting used to...and the back is better, and i can lock up the tire no problem. its power isnt where it should be with 8" rotors, but i like them the way they are. i can put about even pressure on each lever without skidding or going otb.

    so i think i got it sorted out pretty well. i did some other steep hills and they still worked perfect.

    edit: ill try to pump my brakes a little more.. i usually wait till the last second to brake anyways when i can. i know the effects of dragging brakes.....i had a bad experience on my old bike with bb5's in the front and tektro's in the back....i toasted my pads and almost went careening into traffic....

  14. #14
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    Whenever I find braking starting to fade it is usually because I was not riding fluid, tension causes us to drag the brake even if we dont think we are doing it as much as we really are. If you check out motos on a road race circuit they tend to use a 2 piston rear caliper with small rotor and 6 piston front with 2 large rotors and yes they get brake fade at times also.
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