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Thread: Formula Cura 4

  1. #1
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    Formula Cura 4

    Has anyone had any experience yet with the new Cura 4s?
    They hopefully should be available in the USA shortly.

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    Well if they are anything like my 2019 2 piston Cura's then they will be great.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stemcell View Post
    Has anyone had any experience yet with the new Cura 4s?
    They hopefully should be available in the USA shortly.
    Been running mine for a month. Ran the Cura 2's all last season. The 4's are significantly more powerful but have the same great modulation and feel. I love them! The organic pads are nice; i switched to the sintered pads recently and they are grabby and slight more noisy.

    running mine with 180mm rotors on a Yeti 5.5

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    I don't know what brand or model rotors you are using but have you experienced any rotor rub or alignment issues? I have used Formula "The Ones" in the past which were in my opinion awesome brakes but required a lot of attention in that matter.

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    Yes, my rear caliper rubs slightly, but gets better with each ride. Its pretty common for Formula calipers to rub a little at first. I run Shimano Icetech rotors.

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    Ive been running a set for a few months now, seriously nice brakes. Very consistent lever feel, short lever throw but plenty of modulation and a bucket load of overall power. I'm also running ice tech rotors, no major rubs, certainly nothing I'm worried about slowing me down with too much drag. An out of true rotor would probably suck though. They ship with organic pads so you'll need to grab a set of sintered ones at the same time if you want to go that route. Being a Shimano user of 10+ years it's taking a while to get used to the levers, you can't wind them in as close to the bars as shimanos if that's what you like.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stemcell View Post
    Has anyone had any experience yet with the new Cura 4s?
    They hopefully should be available in the USA shortly.
    Good news and bad news.

    Bad news first. Rear caliper leaked at hose-caliper connection, at the trailhead just when I am about to ride them for the 1st time. Zero ride time on them, failed right after mounting. More frustrating is that ride time is a luxury for me and its the long Chinese New Year hols here. Best of all, no local dealer for Formula in Singapore. Jokes on me trying to support exotic non-locally supported products. I expected more from a product made in Italy. Had way better experiences with products made in China and Malaysia. Guess I got the exotic QC lemon just as the Ferraris, Ducatis are known for.

    Good news. The feel of the front brakes, oh my... smooth butter at the fingers, but all business at the calipers. On 203mm Shimano Ice Tech rotors, front and rear. Bike's a 2018 YT Capra 29 AL.

    Can't say much more than car park feel. Zero ride time on the Cura 4s. Had to go back to my Yeti for the holiday ride. I can compare the Cura 4s against the Code brakes on the Yeti (203mm rotors too) once the rear Cura 4 is back from warranty (I hope).

    The Code brakes are amazing though. Comparing to the old 2 piston XT (m785). Worlds apart.

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    Anyone tried Cura 4's with Hope Floating rotors? The 203 Formula rotor is mostly on back order so I'm thinking going with Hope.

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    I believe a long awaited new shipment of Formula stuff has just arrived in the USA through BTI (their US distributor) which should be good news for those in search of it.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Stemcell View Post
    I believe a long awaited new shipment of Formula stuff has just arrived in the USA through BTI (their US distributor) which should be good news for those in search of it.
    I'm in EU, so need to wait for 203's to appear here.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kombinat.PL View Post
    I'm in EU, so need to wait for 203's to appear here.
    check http://alltricks.com/ Im in Aus and buy most of my formula stuff from them, quick to ship and have pretty much every spare part you could want.

    Looks like they have the formula floating rotors in stock @ 203 as well.

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    Two snow rides on my new Cura 4's and couldn't be happier. They are much more powerful than the 2 piston Cura's I ran last year on the same bike. I love how smooth the lever is and the rear caliper just barely rubs on the rotor and should stop soon. I did switch to the sintered pads and the additional bite is noticeable from compared to the stock organic pads.

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    quick update: spent nearly a week down in NW Arkansas recently and the brakes were flawless! The rear caliper still rubs a bit on the rotor but not terribly. I love these brakes!

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    glad to know i'm not the only one with cura 4 rubbing.

    both my front and rear do and its driving me a bit crazy.

    there is next to zero space between rotor and pads.

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    an old trick for rubbing Formula's is to align the caliper so that the pads arn't rubbing, then iteratively tighten the caliper bolts a bit at a time, so as not to disturb the alignment.

    There's also that 4-piston calipers rub more than 2-pison ones...search (or look on this sub-forum) for the things that Hope folks do to unsure that their 4-pot brakes are rub free e.g. balancing pistons / cleanings sticky pistons. Yes, it may even be worthwhile doing this for brand new brakes.

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    Just finished a trail ride. The Cura 4s are nice. Smooth, refined, predictable, with lots of power on reserve for a 86kg rider, 14.6kg bike.

    I am comparing the feel against my Code brakes on the same SRAM centreline 203mm, f&r rotors. No noise. The Codes are a bit vague and the levers and pull don't feel as refined. Power is comparable I feel.

    Comparing against my old 2 pot XT M785, I am a converted modulation lover now. Used to like Shimano on/off brake feel. Still do, but a bit lesser now. Power wise, the XT is no match at all.

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    Anyone with Cura/Cura 4 bleeding experience here? I'm waiting for my set to arrive in a day or two and will definitely trim the hoses. Do I need to bleed em? Can I use Magura Royal Blood or Finish line mineral oil? How was the process?

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    I bled my Cura's. Easiest bleed job yet. I used Shimano mineral oil. I'm sure the finish line will work.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Georgia_Rider View Post
    I bled my Cura's. Easiest bleed job yet. I used Shimano mineral oil. I'm sure the finish line will work.
    Thanks

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    Quote Originally Posted by Georgia_Rider View Post
    I bled my Cura's. Easiest bleed job yet. I used Shimano mineral oil. I'm sure the finish line will work.
    How did you bled your Curas? Did you use open syringe on the master cylinder? Or push/pull method? I had good luck bleeding Maguras and Hope, but with Cura it looks complicated

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  21. #21
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    Easy peasy.

    Check out the Formula bleed video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_ONPngkYK4

    I have bled Magura (Louise, MT Trail, MT7s) and if you can do that you can do the Formula as they are very straight forward across the board - bleed, install, use.

    Universal Cycles has the bleed kits.

    Pretty kick ass Cura 4 is.

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    Quote Originally Posted by silentG View Post
    Easy peasy.

    Check out the Formula bleed video - https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=w_ONPngkYK4

    I have bled Magura (Louise, MT Trail, MT7s) and if you can do that you can do the Formula as they are very straight forward across the board - bleed, install, use.

    Universal Cycles has the bleed kits.

    Pretty kick ass Cura 4 is.
    I had issues with one master cylinder - the diaphragm/bladder came torn and the oil easily sipped through the hole in the cap. The other side was really easy to bleed.
    Now I'm waiting for the response from Formula customer support and BTI USA.

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  23. #23
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    I have a set of 4's arriving tomorrow, hopefully all is well with them.

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    Well, BTI doesn't sell their parts directly to the customers, only partnering bike shops.
    I decided to glue that tiny hole and it worked fine.
    Was able to bleed the brake with no issues. Waiting for the weather to calm down and give it a shake on a trail. Hopefully it will hold just fine

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    Well, BTI doesn't sell their parts directly to the customers, only partnering bike shops.
    I decided to glue that tiny hole and it worked fine.
    Was able to bleed the brake with no issues. Waiting for the weather to calm down and give it a shake on a trail. Hopefully it will hold just fine

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    Did you contact Formula at all?

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Did you contact Formula at all?
    I did, but got no response at all.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    I did, but got no response at all.

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    Well that's very disappointing!!

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Well that's very disappointing!!
    Agree. Good thing is that I was able to pull it apart and fix with $1 glue. Most other parts are available from Universal Cycles, but not this one.
    Keep in mind, that I purchased the brakes through German seller, so returns and warranty claims is kinda pita...

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    Keep in mind, that I purchased the brakes through German seller, so returns and warranty claims is kinda pita...

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    Yeah I did as well, saved a bunch of dollars. ?ust hope that doesn't come back to bite me in the ars.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Yeah I did as well, saved a bunch of dollars. ?ust hope that doesn't come back to bite me in the ars.
    Kudos to Alba Distribution , they were very responsive and committed to send me the replacement part though USA is not the area of their responsibility.

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    The following combination will not work with Cura 4: Fox 36 and Hope rotors. The caliper is too close to the disc and it catches the rivets.

    However Hope rotors with Cura 4 on MRP Ribbon and DT swiss hubs work flawlessly... go figure.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kombinat.PL View Post
    The following combination will not work with Cura 4: Fox 36 and Hope rotors. The caliper is too close to the disc and it catches the rivets.

    However Hope rotors with Cura 4 on MRP Ribbon and DT swiss hubs work flawlessly... go figure.
    Not true. I have Cura 4 on Fox 36 with Hope floating rotor. But I have Hope hubs, which are known to be little offset to the middle. So Hope rotors are best compatible with Hope hubs. Previously I tried Magura brakes with Race Face hubs and Hope rotors and rivets were rubbing like a crazy.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    Not true. I have Cura 4 on Fox 36 with Hope floating rotor. But I have Hope hubs, which are known to be little offset to the middle. So Hope rotors are best compatible with Hope hubs. Previously I tried Magura brakes with Race Face hubs and Hope rotors and rivets were rubbing like a crazy.

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    Thanks for the info! To clarify my 1st post it didn't work with DT's.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Kombinat.PL View Post
    Thanks for the info! To clarify my 1st post it didn't work with DT's.
    Agreed. it has more to do with the hubs, than the brakes or fork.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    I did, but got no response at all.

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    I reached out initially through Formula's Instagram message, no response. Got a reply when I emailed Formula. They told me to send it back to Bikecomponents.de for warranty.

    Note that warranty is sending the unit back to Formula for repairs. Not immediate replacement with a brand new piece.

    My issue was the rear caliper leaked at the hose-caliper interface. Had to replace my rotors, pads. All brand new and unused. Kinda annoyed, plus the waiting time Germany-Singapore-Germany-Italy-Germany-Singapore.

    All is well now. Brake is awesome. Refined and smooth compared to Codes. Lots of power in reserve.


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    I wonder why they dropped the pull style levers.

  37. #37
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    Just installed a set and it went smoothly. I shortened the lines but didn't require bleeding, maybe I will just for the heck of it when I get some time.

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    Quote Originally Posted by bdundee View Post
    Just installed a set and it went smoothly. I shortened the lines but didn't require bleeding, maybe I will just for the heck of it when I get some time.
    Congrats on your purchase! Just try to put the bike vertically or upside down for some time. Trapped air bubbles might get to the master cylinder. It's safer to sort things out before the ride.

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    Quote Originally Posted by Robik View Post
    Congrats on your purchase! Just try to put the bike vertically or upside down for some time. Trapped air bubbles might get to the master cylinder. It's safer to sort things out before the ride.

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk
    I've never had to bleed any brakes after shortening the hoses (if I'm careful) but that's not a bad idea and going to give it a go.

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    I have been reading through this thread. I have been running a set of Cura 4s on my Pole Evolink since November of last year. I am a huge fan of Hope V4ís and still run them on my Evil Following and Wreckoning. I am bigger guy, 6í 3Ē and 220lb kitted. I am very pleased with the performance from the Curaís. I havenít had any issues with rotor rub or bleeding them. I am really shocked by this because I set them up with the Speedlock break lines. I run the older two piece formula rotor and with one organic pad and one sintered pad per caliper. I was ran them with Hope Floating rotors without issue but not the vented versions. I did order a set of Inetend Rotors that are one piece but much thicker than a standard rotor. Interested to see if they do in-fact provide greater performance since the cost a premium price. As for bleeding recommendations, I have had success with the Syndicate style bleed. If you are in the states and have issuesgetting parts through BTI like I have or donít have a bike shop to go through, try this a vendor on eBay: kw570. They are located in Genova Italy. They ship pretty quickly, about one week to Norther GA. They are also super helpful with trouble shooting Formula stuff. I got my rotors, breaks, pads, and speedlock lines through them last year. Hope this helps someone. This is the link to the bleed video. https://youtu.be/piWBVDh1pTE

  41. #41
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    thanks _FiremanSam_ This is great feedback and info re: kw570 and bleeding

    Keep putting out those fires

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    I've got the 2-pot Curas, and even though I've got Trickstuff on order, thinking I could save some dough if I could get a bit more power by going with Cura 4 or to 203mm rotor...but only in the front. I'm able to lock up rear brake almost too easily. Part of the issue with front/left side is accumulated injuries, so I dont have equal strength.

    I lean towards throwing a 4-pot up front...not even sure I can actually find a Formula CL rotor in black 203mm.

    As far as levers go, are they the same on 2- and 4-pot versions...cause they look the same on photos? And how much different are master cylinder...photos show slightly different design with slightly larger resevoir, but look similar enough to mis-match and not look funky, bit again, photos are hard to tell? Or, can you simply pair a 4-piston caliper with 2-piston lever/master?

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    Pros and cons...certainly cheaper for menton simply buy a 203mm rotor and adapter. And simpler. But I doubt that will give me the boost in front braking power the jump to 4-piston would give.

    Plus I worry about the increased difficulty achieving rub-free setup on 4-pot, as the 2-pot was hard enough...though I never implemented the procedures suggested by Puddleduck, I finally installed a rotor that was true enough.

    P.S., looks like they claim the 4-pots are only 20g/per end heavier, which would be an amazing feat if accurate.

  44. #44
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    Two methods I have used with success:

    Method Uno
    Pistons pushed back flush with the caliper (can be done with the pads in).

    Center the caliper over the rotor and snug up the bolts evenly so that the caliper is still centered.

    Spin the wheel, grab and hold the brake lever (can do this a couple of times).

    Tighten up the caliper bolts a bit per bolt while holding the brake lever closed (wheel not moving) to 6 Nm or so.


    Method Dos
    You can also use the Hayes disk brake feeler guide (https://www.biketiresdirect.com/prod...yABEgIyF_D_BwE deal to make centering over the rotor really easy and then snug up the bolts with a 1/4 or 1/2 turn per bolt to the required torque.

    Have you emailed Cura to ask about the lever/MC being the same or not the same between 2 and 4 port?

    In the photos they look very very similar and it doesn't seem like they would have to be different.

    I have the Cura 4 on two bikes and the lever and MC guts look just like the teardown NSMB.com did - https://nsmb.com/articles/formula-cura-brakes-teardown/

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    I have that Hayes tool...great in theory, but I've not found it to actually work. I've become pretty good at centering and truing rotors over time...but margins are awfully thin here, and sometimes even remounting anwheel can cause slight rub/tick...nothing of concern, except I require a silent bike to be happy.

    And I havent emailed them...I can try, but it sounds like response is unlikely from what gather...but i will try.

    Thanks!

  46. #46
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    I have that Hayes tool...great in theory, but I've not found it to actually work. I've become pretty good at centering and truing rotors over time...but margins are awfully thin here, and sometimes even remounting anwheel can cause slight rub/tick...nothing of concern, except I require a silent bike to be happy.

    And I havent emailed them...I can try, but it sounds like response is unlikely from what gather...but i will try.

    Thanks!
    Hi RAG2,

    I have the Hayes tool, and I don't use it. Per my previous comments, I find it easy to eyeball with the bike upside down, with a white background on the floor for contrast, move the caliper so it runs rub free, then iteratively tighten the caliper bolts..all the while checking that the rotor is still rub-free.

    I too need a silent bike to be happy

    I saw your question about Guide's on another thread, and on yet another thread I saw someone post that Guide RE's have noticeably less power than the Magura MT5/7 (can't remember which).

    I reckon you'd be happiest with the Trickstuff's...you've been mentioning them for ages. If you otherwise like the Formula's aside from the lack of power on the front, then why not try a Cura4 up front or a 203 rotor (I'd assumed that you were already using a 203 front rotor)??

    The M/C is the same on the Cura 2 and 4
    See https://www.pinkbike.com/news/new-fo...-4-brakes.html

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    Yeah, I'm gonna try a Cura 4 up front, almost certainly.

    Somewhat hoping I like it too much to go through with spending $900 on trickstuff and all the fixin's.. my fun account is getting low, ha!

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    Impressive response time from Formula...they replied and said the master cylinder on the Cura 2 and 4 are the same, other than logo. They didn't say anything about the lever, but would assume it's the same as well.

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    Cura 4 on order! Just 1 for the front. The Cura 2 pot in the rear has all the power I could want...I've got to consciously apply more pressure to front or I end up locking up the rear too quickly...so dropping a Cura 4 in the front should be perfect solution, and now that I finally have a near perfectly true rotor, hopefully i won't have challenges getting a rub/risk-free setup.

  50. #50
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    Cura 4 on order! Just 1 for the front. The Cura 2 pot in the rear has all the power I could want...I've got to consciously apply more pressure to front or I end up locking up the rear too quickly...so dropping a Cura 4 in the front should be perfect solution, and now that I finally have a near perfectly true rotor, hopefully i won't have challenges getting a rub/risk-free setup.
    I'm looking forward to your feedback RAG2

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    Yup...the master cylinder and lever are identical between the Cura 4 and 2, so mid-March scheme should work perfectly.

    I wanted to see what the factory bleed felt like so I left the hose long, really long lol, per the picture.

    I only did a 15 minute break-in session so far, so I can't draw any power conclusions/comparisons just yet.

    But, upon mounting, my 1st thought was...I can drive a truck through the clearance between the pads and rotor now. Never before have I had this much clearance, coming off the least clearance I've ever had in the cura 2. In all seriousness the clearance is more than double that I had on the 2-pot. On the flip side, the dead lever throw is at least double as well, and it's a little squishier, so over all no bueno. It must be the bleed...I guess I got a bad "factory bleed". But at least I know more clearance is achievable, cause it has notably more clearance than my previous couple sets of Guides. I wonder if they also used more elastic seals as well...for better retraction...that would be nice but probably just the bleed.

    Gonna have to cut it down and re-bleed this weekend anyways, so we'll see.




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    Last edited by RAG2; 08-29-2019 at 03:50 AM.

  52. #52
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    But, upon mounting, my 1st thought was...I can drive a truck through the clearance between the pads and rotor now. Never before have I had this much clearance, coming off the least clearance I've ever had in the cura 2. In all seriousness the clearance is more than double that I had on the 2-pot. On the flip side, the dead lever throw is at least double as well, and it's a little squishier, so over all no bueno. It must be the bleed...I guess I got a bad "factory bleed".
    if the bleed is ok, but they are low on fluid, or the lever throw is too long, you can use another old trick is to shorten the throw.
    1.Remove the wheel or the pads.
    2.Pull the lever all the way to the bars.
    3.Remount the wheel or pads
    Repeat until the lever throw is how you'd like it. If you decrease it too much, reset the pistons and start again.

    I'm looking forward to your feedback. Especially if the Cura4 "feels" the same as the 2, and simply has more power.

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    Quote Originally Posted by PuddleDuck View Post
    if the bleed is ok, but they are low on fluid, or the lever throw is too long, you can use another old trick is to shorten the throw.
    1.Remove the wheel or the pads.
    2.Pull the lever all the way to the bars.
    3.Remount the wheel or pads
    Repeat until the lever throw is how you'd like it. If you decrease it too much, reset the pistons and start again.

    I'm looking forward to your feedback. Especially if the Cura4 "feels" the same as the 2, and simply has more power.
    Bingo! I ended up having to work out, and balance the pistons, because had a couple lazy pistons that weren't moving well, and then I tried this technique. Perfect. I was able to fiddle with it to get the lever throw the same.

    Literally the lever throw and action feels identical...only more power, noticeably more power! Ive only done some front yard tests, but I can tell its Exactly what I was looking for...the Cura 4 up front with Cura 2 in back is the perfect blend of power. For my liking anyways. I think I can save my $900 and cancel my Trickstuff order...will report back after a couple trail rides.

  54. #54
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    Quote Originally Posted by RAG2 View Post
    Bingo! I ended up having to work out, and balance the pistons, because had a couple lazy pistons that weren't moving well, and then I tried this technique. Perfect. I was able to fiddle with it to get the lever throw the same.

    Literally the lever throw and action feels identical...only more power, noticeably more power! Ive only done some front yard tests, but I can tell its Exactly what I was looking for...the Cura 4 up front with Cura 2 in back is the perfect blend of power. For my liking anyways. I think I can save my $900 and cancel my Trickstuff order...will report back after a couple trail rides.

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    Got a trail ride in. Very much like the ratio of power front and rear with the 4 - 2 combo. The 4 isnt quite "lock up the front tire at any speed" power...but I feel like it's right on the cusp...with 180mm rotor anyways. Definitely requires less force/pull to come to a stop (compared to the 2). Butni would not want the 4 in the back...I'm locking up the rear tire with, what feels like, just 50-60% power.

    Being that I'm strickened with gram-counting syndrome, I cant help but wonder how much more the Cura 4 caliper weighs than the 2....?

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    Have you noticed any flex in the 4 at all? It's been nonstop pissing down here, but on the stand I've noticed the caliper looks a bit flexy.

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    I forgot to weigh the Cura 4, but maybe I'll remove at some point and do so. According to r2-bike, there would only be a 9gram difference...but I find that had to fathom. I was guessing 25-30g per end heavier. The pics would surely be worth uncut end, as my Cura 2 on the front weighs just 238g.

    Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

  58. #58
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    Anyone here replaced the hose? Looks like I need longer one for my new frame. Any chance Shimano hose kit would work or it got to be genuine Formula?

    Sent from my Pixel 3 using Tapatalk

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    Quote Originally Posted by _FiremanSam_ View Post
    If you are in the states and have issuesgetting parts through BTI like I have or donít have a bike shop to go through, try this a vendor on eBay: kw570. They are located in Genova Italy. They ship pretty quickly, about one week to Norther GA.
    I really really want to put a set of Cura 4s on my new build but this type of thing is what will probably keep me from getting them. The only US distributor for Formula has "issues" providing parts and the other stated option is to order pads thru some rando ebay seller in Italy for $55 a side after shipping (and he only has 2 left atm). A cursory google search for "formula cura 4 brake pads" wasn't very encouraging. I'd rather just run XTs knowing that I can get pads at my LBS. Even my old Hope M4s I just parted with I could get pads from Jenson or CRC easily.

  60. #60
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    Quote Originally Posted by Heiril View Post

    Good news. The feel of the front brakes, oh my... smooth butter at the fingers, but all business at the calipers. On 203mm Shimano Ice Tech rotors, front and rear. Bike's a 2018 YT Capra 29 AL.
    How do they work with the Ice Tech Rotors? I'm temped to get that exact combo myself!

  61. #61
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skipper_mtb View Post
    How do they work with the Ice Tech Rotors? I'm temped to get that exact combo myself!
    They worked great. No complains at all. Changed to SRAM rotors now as the Shimano rotors were contaminated due to my lack of care during maintenance. No complains too for the SRAM.

    Sent from my SM-G955F using Tapatalk

  62. #62
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    In the Bikeradar review they also said "My only real complaint with the Cura 4 is that the tight spacing in the caliper means a spot-on bleed is necessary to avoid overheating, and the bleed process is a touch fiddly in practice." Have any of you guys found that you can get them silent with some tinkering? Great to hear about those rotors too, thanks for letting me know

  63. #63
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    Quote Originally Posted by Skipper_mtb View Post
    In the Bikeradar review they also said "My only real complaint with the Cura 4 is that the tight spacing in the caliper means a spot-on bleed is necessary to avoid overheating, and the bleed process is a touch fiddly in practice." Have any of you guys found that they keep rubbing even after a few rides to settle them in? Great to hear about those rotors too, thanks for letting me know
    BikeRadar used to be a HUGE fan of Formula brakes, they now are the only? review site that doesn't really rave about them

  64. #64
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    Quote Originally Posted by beerdrinker View Post
    I really really want to put a set of Cura 4s on my new build but this type of thing is what will probably keep me from getting them. The only US distributor for Formula has "issues" providing parts and the other stated option is to order pads thru some rando ebay seller in Italy for $55 a side after shipping (and he only has 2 left atm). A cursory google search for "formula cura 4 brake pads" wasn't very encouraging. I'd rather just run XTs knowing that I can get pads at my LBS. Even my old Hope M4s I just parted with I could get pads from Jenson or CRC easily.
    The big EU stores have a HUGE range, and great prices.
    Try
    - Bike24.com
    - Bike-Components.de
    - R2-bike.com

    Stock up on consumables (pads), then enjoy not having to worry about wandering bite points and sticking m/c pistons

    I mitgate any risk of issues by having a spare Shimano budget brake on hand e.g. this for $~20 https://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-BR-MT201-Disc-Brake. See this article for how good Shimano's budget brakes are: https://nsmb.com/articles/are-shiman...budget-brakes/


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    I got the new Cura 4 on the front cut down and I presume re-bled st LBS...suppose I don't know what they actually did. But I ended up with a great compromise...ample rotor-to-pad clearance at the expense of microscopically more dead lever throw. Probably a touch more clearance than my last couple sets of Guides. I recall reading the Bike Rumor press release of these brakes and it referenced new seals that generate .4mm of retraction...seems the new seals worked to that end; for me anyways, as I saw reference to others sho had minimal clearance (as did I on my formula Cura 2).

    I would say it's just right, all the way around. I think I'll go ride for a while and enjoy my properly functioning brakes!
    Last edited by RAG2; 09-01-2019 at 08:25 PM.

  66. #66
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    Dude.

    If you use the Google and look for 'Formula Cura 4 pads' you will see that you can get them in the US from Universal Cycles, Modern Bike, Bikeman, etc along with finding them on Ebay from US based sellers.

    Not really an issue for sourcing and it is pretty low cost insurance to have a spare set of pads on-hand before you need them.

    Is an LBS going to have them - probably not since LBS aren't monolithic things so the quality and availability of parts there is going to be all over the map...depends on the bike shop, some of them have to order practically every...single...thing as they are trying to avoid holding stock for stuff that doesn't sell quickly, are lame in some cases, or selling parts isn't their bread and butter.

    My Cura are silent on two bikes and if they are noisy I find that has to do with the caliper not being centered over the rotors with an adjustment to that taking care of the noise (squeaking when grabbing the brakes).

    In theory mineral oil based brakes would be more susceptible to overheating and fade than DOT brakes but I haven't seen that personally across Magura, Shimano, and Formula although maybe you would need a really long heavy mega multi-thousand meter/feet descent to get to that point.

  67. #67
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    Quote Originally Posted by silentG View Post
    Dude.


    My Cura are silent on two bikes and if they are noisy I find that has to do with the caliper not being centered over the rotors with an adjustment to that taking care of the noise (squeaking when grabbing the brakes).

    In theory mineral oil based brakes would be more susceptible to overheating and fade than DOT brakes but I haven't seen that personally across Magura, Shimano, and Formula although maybe you would need a really long heavy mega multi-thousand meter/feet descent to get to that point.
    Yeah, the Cura 2 and 4 have been dead silent for me this far...and I tried to get them to fade down a super steep decent that was too much for Guides...and nope, these things can't be faded!

  68. #68
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    Galfer now has pads for Cura 2's and 4's. I run their pads and rotors on my hardtail and they are excellent.

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    Quote Originally Posted by shapethings View Post
    glad to know i'm not the only one with cura 4 rubbing.

    both my front and rear do and its driving me a bit crazy.

    there is next to zero space between rotor and pads.
    I had the same issue with my Cura 2s. I didnt have enough space to deal with out-of-true rotors. I was able to achieve rub-free setup with careful alignment and going through a few rotors, but it wasnt ideal. This was the only aspect of these breaks that was not ideal, otherwise fantastic modulation, Bite point consistency, power and fade resistance... But I wanted just a little more power so I got a 4 piston caliper for the front. It came with so much clearance I could drive a truck through it. EXCESS clearance...which seemed nice, but the dead lever throw was too long. I also noticed only 2 of the 4 pistons were moving, so I "worked" the lazy/sticky pistons back and forth with tire lever until they all moved equally...I then set everything as normal, removed the brake pads again squeezed the brake lever to take up the excess space and achieved the perfect tolerances first try. Perfect!

    I later noticed my rear (2-piston) caliper also had a lazy piston...so I worked the pistons with a tire lever until both moved equally. Since then, this caliper has also had significantly more space...the perfect balance of space and lever throw.

    I've gone from being pretty happy to extremely happy. I will be cancelling my trickstuff order.

  70. #70
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    Really good to hear you've had such a good experience with them, hopefully I'll be following in your footsteps soon!

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    Have a cura4 up front, and just added one for the rear as well. Used to run only 2 pot cura. But no matter how much I bleed the lever will have too much throw.
    If I keep the pads in and put in the travel spacer and push some oil in the reservoir through the mc the feel is great and I get a distance of about 3 cm between the grip and edge of the lever. This is same amount of throw as on the front brake.but as soon as I disconnect the syringe and close the bleed port despite really filling the mc, the distance from lever edge to grip decreases by more than half a cm.
    Have bled them like 10 times but always the same
    I can't spot any leaks at mc or caliper either.
    Any ideas?

  72. #72
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    Can anyone measure the width of their Formula bleed block? The standard 10mm block from a universal kit seems too thin as it doesn't make the pistons flush with the caliper body.

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    the block that came with mine was too thin as well.

  74. #74
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    Quote Originally Posted by tr1cky_k1d View Post
    Have a cura4 up front, and just added one for the rear as well. Used to run only 2 pot cura. But no matter how much I bleed the lever will have too much throw.
    If I keep the pads in and put in the travel spacer and push some oil in the reservoir through the mc the feel is great and I get a distance of about 3 cm between the grip and edge of the lever. This is same amount of throw as on the front brake.but as soon as I disconnect the syringe and close the bleed port despite really filling the mc, the distance from lever edge to grip decreases by more than half a cm.
    Have bled them like 10 times but always the same
    I can't spot any leaks at mc or caliper either.
    Any ideas?
    Hi TK, did you know that you can reduce lever throw by pulling the lever with the wheel removed. This moves the pistons a little bit towards the disc. See post #53 for more on this.

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    Cheers! Tried it, and worked, but instead now I don't get enough clearance for the rotor
    Guess I will have to play around with it a bit more.
    Never had any issue like this on other brakes in the past so quite annoying. Thanks for the tip though.

    In regards to the bleed block, actually with the Formula Cura 4 block, the pistons are not entirely flush either. They protrude from the caliper a bit.

  76. #76
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    Quote Originally Posted by tr1cky_k1d View Post
    Cheers! Tried it, and worked, but instead now I don't get enough clearance for the rotor
    Guess I will have to play around with it a bit more.
    Never had any issue like this on other brakes in the past so quite annoying. Thanks for the tip though.

    In regards to the bleed block, actually with the Formula Cura 4 block, the pistons are not entirely flush either. They protrude from the caliper a bit.
    Glad that it worked!

    It is a trial and error thing. Reset the pistons, and try again, maybe half a lever pull at a time if you used 1 lever pull before.

  77. #77
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    Quote Originally Posted by PuddleDuck View Post
    Glad that it worked!

    It is a trial and error thing. Reset the pistons, and try again, maybe half a lever pull at a time if you used 1 lever pull before.
    Well, not too happy right now. Went for a ride to try and dial in the clearance and for that reason did not put the c clip on the pad retainer bolt. Turns out there is a reason to have it, suddenly had not power left in the rear, turns out the retainer pin had come out and one of the pads had fallen off :/

    Can't find the ratainer bolt for sale anywhere and typically I gave away all my Shimano spare cotter pins and pads when I sold my last bike with Shimano brakes

  78. #78
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    Formula part FD40225-10 is the caliper bolt kit.

    In looking at pictures of the pad bolt in this kit it looks very very similar to

    https://www.ebay.com/itm/Formula-Ita...1246%7Ciid%3A1

    The same seller on Ebay sells the clips that go on the end of the bolt if you need them.

    On my unofficial calipers my bleed block is 10.7mm wide which would be the part that sits between the pistons.

  79. #79
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    I'm not sure the thickness/width of the bleed block matters from 10mm to 10.7mm so much as you can fiddle with it if you think it is too thin (add an old credit card to the bleed block for example).

    I think you can gauge the adequacy of the bleed block by looking at the caliper when bleeding to make sure the pistons are flush and stay that way when you are pushing or pulling fluid.

    The main thing is the pistons are flush with the caliper body although I think post 52 is a bleed while manipulating the piston position and fluid (? - I might not be reading that properly if this is a bleed to position the pistons a certain way or just positioning the pistons while the system is sealed to get the throw dialed in).

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    Do not buy these brakes!

    Winter is setting in and after a full year on the Cura 4's I am moving on to something more reliable. I have had issues all year with lack of piston retraction (front and rear calipers). I ordered new seals that were supposed to fix the problem. Not a chance. Like all other things Italian (my experience), when they work properly, they are fantastic. But they have only worked properly 30% of the time. In fact, I had two out of town trips essentially wasted because of issues with the brakes.

    I simply can not recommend these brakes. I have some Trickstuff Maxima's on order and will be switching over to my tried and true Shimano SLX's until they come in. I really wanted these to be amazing.....now i just want to smash them with a hammer.

  81. #81
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    Quote Originally Posted by hookem34 View Post
    Winter is setting in and after a full year on the Cura 4's I am moving on to something more reliable. I have had issues all year with lack of piston retraction (front and rear calipers). I ordered new seals that were supposed to fix the problem. Not a chance. Like all other things Italian (my experience), when they work properly, they are fantastic. But they have only worked properly 30% of the time. In fact, I had two out of town trips essentially wasted because of issues with the brakes.

    I simply can not recommend these brakes. I have some Trickstuff Maxima's on order and will be switching over to my tried and true Shimano SLX's until they come in. I really wanted these to be amazing.....now i just want to smash them with a hammer.
    Sounds like I dodged a bullet. I ordered a set earlier in the year, but they arrived without the quick disconnect feature so I returned them. That was a feature I wanted. Formula had just switched over from that being a standard feature. Plus getting fluid and bleed kits in the USA at that time was next to impossible.

    On paper the Cura looked very enticing: modulation, power, mineral oil, quick disconnect, flip flop lever, reasonable price, nice looking.

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