dumping avid vee's for mech!! more!- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Reputation: KamikazeBikr's Avatar
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    dumping avid vee's for mech!! more!

    I'm finally getting rid of my avid vee brakes for avid disc mech.

    Would you recommend replacing all cables and houses for the new disc?
    Or is existing stuff ok?


    Never had or installed disc before so what other tips can you give me?

    Do i need a torque wrench for the rotors or anything?

    Anything else?

    Thanks

  2. #2
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    Reputation: ScottW's Avatar
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    You should definitely replace all cables and housings, in fact you will probably have to since the disks-at least up front-will use a full length cable housing. If you can I would run a full length housing in the rear too. Avids lists torque specs for the brakes but to be honest I didn't use a torque wrench, just used the old snug 'em down till they feel good and tight. No problems for the last year. My Avids came with a little torx wrench for the rotor bolts which works fine.

  3. #3
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    Yep, replace it

    You will definately want to replace the housing. I just (today) installed my new mech's. It was extremeyl easy, and I didn't use a torque wrench either. You'll probably need a couple inches over two feet for the front. LBS recommended 2 feet and it was not enough, plus I got ripped off for housing in the first place. Damn LBS.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by domzanrider
    You will definately want to replace the housing. I just (today) installed my new mech's. It was extremeyl easy, and I didn't use a torque wrench either. You'll probably need a couple inches over two feet for the front. LBS recommended 2 feet and it was not enough, plus I got ripped off for housing in the first place. Damn LBS.

    Right....so with disc i will need longer cable.

    Should hosing be covering the cables the whole way or can there be breaks like in shifting cables?

    Will this work?
    http://www.supergo.com/profile.cfm?L...0&lcat_id=7604

    doesnt say if its ment for vee's or disc or both?

  5. #5
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    Reputation: Ride Biker's Avatar
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    Quote Originally Posted by KamikazeBikr
    Right....so with disc i will need longer cable.

    Should hosing be covering the cables the whole way or can there be breaks like in shifting cables?

    Will this work?
    http://www.supergo.com/profile.cfm?L...0&lcat_id=7604

    doesnt say if its ment for vee's or disc or both?
    I have 2 bikes with Avid mechs. 1 has full cable housing, the other has "regular" cable routing with stops. The full housing has more drag, the regular cable routing feels smoother and snappier. Power is the same. Maintenence is no bother either way. I would ditch the full housing if I could, but I can't. I certainly wouldn't grind away my cable stops to achieve full housing.

    edit: I wouldn't worry about fancy cable and housing, the magic to these brakes is in the set-up and maintaining the proper adjustment, which is easy.

  6. #6
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    avid disc cables

    I set my avid discs up from the start w/ avid full metal jacket cables. It worked really really smoothly with a nice light feel at the lever, altho I had a bit of trouble w/ the rear as far as routing and keeping the sections of flexible housing so they didn't have huge bends or get pulled too much at suspension extension.
    So for my current build, I ran exactly the same cable/ housing up front (with fmj) and ran a QBP housing full length to the rear. Now the rear pull is not as light as it was before. I might be able to trim the cable length down a bit, but don't think that's gonna get me back to the near-hydro feel they used to have. I'll probly end up putting the stainless steel sections back in, and do a little more figuring on how to keep the bends in check.
    Oh, and I drilled out the cable stops on my brand new Switchblade the first day I had it. It hurt a little at first, but I'm never gonna use 'em, so why not? If you're careful and tape up the frame good b4 you start, it's not a bad job...

  7. #7
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    Made the switch to full length...

    ...housing on all of my bikes, and I truly feel it's worth the effort (and pain) of taking a Dremel to an otherwise pristine frame.

    Like RB said, it's all about preparation to achieve a silky smooth lever action. Whether or not you choose full length or conventional housing, this preparation includes clean cuts to maintain the round sprial of housing, filing the cut ends flat so the ferrules fit "cleanly" without compressing under cable pull, maintaining proper housing length and radius, especially at suspension points, and "fluting" the ends of the cable open with a scribe or an awl to give the cable a friction-free entry/exit point.

    I'm not too particular about my cable. I have been using whatever brand of teflon coated cable I could find up until recently, to where now I usually take home un-coated stainless steel cable (usually Shimano brand).

    For housing, I have a box of QBP branded (generic) black 5mm sprial wound. Buy it from a site like aebike or hammerhead and you'll get a 30m box (100') for around 25¢ per foot — enough to last you a long, long time and you'll never feel bad about throwing it away when the time comes. <i>Edit: I wanted to mention that the QBP stuff is manufactured by Jagwire, the same company that manufacturer used by Avid, Shimano and others. Not saying it's the same stuff as Flak Jacket, just that it comes from a reputable manufacturer.</i>

    The pièce de no-résistance, so to speak, is a good squirt of a dry lubricant of your choice — Pyroil Silicone lubricant, Boeshield T9, Pedro's, McLube SailKote, etc. — into the end of the housing for the extra-slippery-smooth action.

    Quote Originally Posted by KamikazeBikr
    Should hosing be covering the cables the whole way or can there be breaks like in shifting cables?
    Last edited by f*nætik; 01-20-2004 at 03:18 PM.

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