Results 1 to 9 of 9
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    84

    Disc Brakes Scraping

    Hey. I just got a new Iron Horse Warrior Pro 2005 and the disc brakes on it slightly touch the brake pads... From what I hear this is not good and can wear down your pads quickly.

    Is there any tutorial/diagram that shows how to spread the pads apart away from the disc, but still maintain the full brake power it would usually have.

  2. #2
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    Is it mechanical or hydraulic?

    First off, recenter the caliper. Loosen the two caliper mounting bolts, squeeze the brake lever while rotating the wheel. Equally retorque both bolts while still squeezing the brake lever.

    If it's hydraulic, it should be pretty much set.

    If it's mechanical, the inboard pad (closest to hub) will need to be backed off slightly. You adjust the distance of this pad with the allen key or torx bolt on the back or inboard side of the caliper.

  3. #3
    mtbr member
    Reputation: ANdRewLIu6294's Avatar
    Join Date
    Sep 2005
    Posts
    601
    first, inner or outer pads?

    outer meaning on the left side when you're looking at the back of the bike

    EDIT: will has pretty much got it, except that on my Mechs, i didnt have to bakc off the pads a bit, its not touching,

  4. #4
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    Of course it depends entirely on the situation. Do things based on feel.

    For instance, Avid provides me with a set of instructions on how to bleed my J7s. I think they're garbage. I used my own way to bleed the brakes and got every last bubble out of the system. Versus the Avid way, it always seemed to have a reluctuant bubble in trapped in the system somewhere.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    84
    Lets see, the brakes are on the left side of the bike... and I guess they are mechanical (how do I tell?).

    Sorry for the noobish questions, I'm pretty new to this stuff.

  6. #6
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    Mechanical uses a cable. Hydraulic uses brake fluid, like in a car. Do you know which model of brake it is?

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
    Posts
    84
    Just Looked at the specs; its mechanical.

    Brakes: HAYES MECHANICAL DISC, MX-2-XC BRAKE W/ 6" ROTOR

  8. #8
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Mar 2006
    Posts
    202
    i have this SAME problem, but it's not on the brake pad that is moved by that bolt on the backside. I know this because i loosened that like CRAZY, to where that pad didn't even come close to the rotor and it was STILL rubbing. I just don't know how to move or adjust the outside (dynamic pad), in the manual it says something about cable tension and stuff, but, uh, complete noob here can someone elaborate???

  9. #9
    Meh.
    Reputation: XSL_WiLL's Avatar
    Join Date
    Nov 2004
    Posts
    17,508
    Pulling more cable through the anchor puts more tension on the cable, letting cable out takes tension off the cable. The levers move the dynamic pad in by pulling cable and thus adding tension.

Members who have read this thread: 0

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2019 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.