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  1. #1
    Three sheets to the wind
    Reputation: Bawitdaba's Avatar
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    Did I cause damage????

    I was installing pads on my Hayes 9's, and I was pushing the piston back in with the box end of a 10mm wrench when I noticed fluid leaking from the piton. What did I do???

  2. #2
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    You are lucky if the leaking fluid comes from the end cable of caliper. you can just replaced it with new hydro cable. But if the leaking fluid comes from inside the caliper probably you damaged the oil seal or ethier made some crack around the piston by mistaken forcing (using 10mm wrench) there's no inner serviceable parts hanging around. bring your bike to nearest LBC and to have it check. Nextime you change the pads turn you bike upside so that the fluid in the cable will not run to caliper instead the fluid going back to the lever and the two caliper slowly retract itself. some safety reminders do not leave the hydro caliper without pads/rotors even in a minute, if nessesary get a piece of stick 3mm thick or a like and put it between the caliper.

  3. #3
    Three sheets to the wind
    Reputation: Bawitdaba's Avatar
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    Shux!!! I'm pretty sure the fluid is coming from the outer edge of the piston.The bike is upsidedown on a bench, I guess I'll know for sure when I put upside right. The damn instructions told me to use that particular wrench and method to open the caliper!!! Is that a seal I can replace????

  4. #4
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    I can hardly say that even the expert bike mechanic can't fix it but try some LBC or ask their website of manufacturer of their technical know how. I'm pretty sure oil seal is pop out a little bit. We cannot open the caliper because it's one piece made and factory's set up.

  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by boyet
    We cannot open the caliper because it's one piece made and factory's set up.
    The only mono-block caliper that I know for Hayes is the El Camino and maybe the sole- all the others, Mags, HFXs, G1 or G2 calipers are two piece and can be serviced. You do need compressed air to get the piston out. Also needed is a new piston and seal ($7) and transfer port o-ring (goes between the two caliper halfs- about $1.50), DOT 4 brake fluid and bleed kit.

    There is nothing wrong with using the box end of a 10mm wrench, but one must be very careful to not bend or break the pin in the middle of the piston. I have found the open end of the 14mm wrench works better- it only touches the edge of the piston.
    I bike; therefore, I work

  6. #6
    ride hard take risks
    Reputation: dogonfr's Avatar
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    That is the good thing about Hayes brakes you can rebuild them. You might try & squeez the lever a tad withe the wrench betweel the pistons & push them back again. Possibly the seal was dry & rolled a little, lubing it with the fluid might unroll it & seat back again, not a guarantee but worth a try.

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