Brakes on my GT Avalanche 3.0- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Brakes on my GT Avalanche 3.0

    I have been riding my GT Ava 3.0 for about 3 months and keep hearing this hissing sound everytime I brake. This is pretty common on these bikes as I have heard the same noise on other 3.0. I was wondering if changing my brakes bads will help this.
    I am willing to change my brakes aswel and was considering the Avid Juicy 3.
    Before I buy anything I have a couple of questions.

    1. What brake bads do I need for 2010 GT Ava 3.0?
    2. If I were to upgrade the brakes to the Avid Juicy 3, what size of rotor fits my MT Bike?
    3. HOw hard are brakes to install?

  2. #2
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    First off...

    the hissing sound you are hearing is common to all disc brakes. It varies a bit between brands and models, but it is common. You are dragging a metalic or organic brake pad across a steel rotor. Any little bit of grit or dust will cause them to hiss, esspecially when applying the brakes lightly. So even with the best brakes made you'll likely get some hiss out of them. Another cause of the hiss sound is the cooling cut outs in the brake rotors. With that said, organic pads are usually a little quieter than metalic pads. Bottom line is though, some brake designs hiss more than others, but they all do it. You should be glad that you're only getting a little hiss, they could be squealing!


    1. What brake bads do I need for 2010 GT Ava 3.0?

    The stock brakes on the 3.0 are Tektro mechanicals. What model is not apparent from the specs. So you'll have to figure that one out. But it's a pretty good guess that they are likely organic pads. So changing pads won't likely change much. And you'll likely need to go with Tektro pads as well. But before you begin your search you need to know the specific model brake that is on the bike.

    2. If I were to upgrade the brakes to the Avid Juicy 3, what size of rotor fits my MT Bike?

    The 3.0 comes with 160mm rotors stock, front and rear. Your fork, Suntour XCM, is rated for up to a 185mm rotor. So if you like you can go with the bigger rotor up front. Your options on the rear are limited by clearance. Most hard tails like the 3.0 won't have enough chain stay clearance to handle anything bigger than a 180mm rotor. And depending on the design may not handle 180's. Anyway if your not having any problems with your current set up (160 fr, 160 rr) there's really no need to go bigger. But a 180 front 160 rear combination does give better braking performance and tends to ballance out front and rear braking nicely. You'r call on that one.

    3. HOw hard are brakes to install?

    That depends totally on you. If you can follow instructions well and are mechanically inclined they're not very hard to install. But if you don't know what you are doing, don't follow directions and/or don't have the right tools, they can be a nightmare.

    Things to consider: Do you have any experience installing disc brakes. Are you sure you want to go hydraulic? They do tend to have a higher learning curve for install and maintenance to begin with. Do you know how to bleed hydro's. They're prebled at the factory, but it isn't always a good bleed. Also if you have to shorten the brake lines (very likely) you'll have to learn to do that on the fly, and learn to bleed as well.

    Also have you considered Avid BB7 mechanical brakes. Likely to cost you less than J3's, and you can use your current levers and possibly even the same cables and housing. And they'd deffinately be an upgrade over your current brakes.

    Anyway, your call on this deal. But the bottom line is, if you don't know what you are doing, have them professionally installed. Costs more but less headache. Oh and keep in mind that you may or may not get less hiss out the brakes when they are applied.
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  3. #3
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    Thanks for your reply Squash.

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