Brake upgrade questions/suggestions- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Brake upgrade questions/suggestions

    So I made this post...

    But really I feel like I might need to ask the further question of... "I'm looking to spend about $300 on a break overhaul, preferably focusing on the rear breaks, but the front need it too.

    Anyways any detailed advise is much appreciated.
    Last edited by navysarchris; 02-07-2014 at 04:24 PM.

  2. #2
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    If you are spending that much money why not get new brakes?
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  3. #3
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    Quote Originally Posted by navysarchris View Post
    So I made this post...
    Critical info

    Constructive advise was constructive

    Overhaul =/= all new brake setups?

  4. #4
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    What type of riding do you do?
    Off the top of my head I would suggest Shimano SLX brakes, you can get a set for around 300 for both if you look around.
    If you want to spend that on each then I say go Hope, you won't be sorry with these babies.
    Strong and great modulation, I am 220 lbs and they can easily OTB me with one finger pull.
    Plus they are the sexiest looking brakes out there.
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  5. #5
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    Quote Originally Posted by Learux View Post
    If you are spending that much money why not get new brakes?
    I believe OP was talking about upgrade, rather than overhaul. Overhaul would involve taking the brake apart, and replacing orings, pistons etc.

  6. #6
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    Well sorry for not reading, the title is misleading to say the least.

    You really can't go wrong with slx.
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  7. #7
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    I am trying to build a brake system for AM/DH. But the thing I am trying to do with this build is use parts that you could comfortably use for endero (that seems to be more in regards to the suspension).

  8. #8
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    formula t1, or RO. trail bike weight, dh stopping power

  9. #9
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    If you decide XT meets your needs, I just picked XT Ice Tech brakes and 180/203 rotors for $289 from Competitive Cyclist today. You need to use the code LOYAL

    Cheers!

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by csermonet View Post
    formula t1, or RO. trail bike weight, dh stopping power
    I'll sell you my Formula RO (RO=R1 with carbon levers) off my Ibis SL-R for $275 + shipping from California. They have around 100 hours of XC use and would include a Formula 180 (+ adapter) & 160 rotor, good organic pads, and almost new metallic pads. They are too grabby for me so I put them in a box a while ago. PM me if interested for details.

    photos taken at around 50 hours of use:
    https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p3pb9105934/p3pb9105934.jpg
    https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p3pb9105933/p3pb9105933.jpg
    https://ep1.pinkbike.org/p3pb9105935/p3pb9105935.jpg

    I put the FCS (red color) barrel adjusters on both levers since those pics were taken, as depicted here:
    https://www.componentsbike.it/shop/i...CS-860x650.jpg

  11. #11
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    Heck, if you want to actually do SLX, look in the classifieds, I have my SLX's, 180 rotors and adaptors in there. 60 miles.

    I replaced them with Hope E4 (4 piston) front, and X2 (2 piston) rear brakes. You can do a set of them for less than $375, no rotors.

    Don't neglect the importance of rotor size. When I got my 29er, I was disappointed in the SLX brakes. Reason? I was coming off a 26" wheel bike with 180mm rotors. When I jumped on the 29" wheel with 180mm rotors, the rotor was effectivly reduced in size to a 160mm, and I noticed the lack of stopping power. I jumped to 203mm rotors, and was very happy with the power of the SLX brakes then. Unfortunately, the levers were too short with the newly installed X0 grip shifts.

    I only do XC type riding. I don't think I've ever been to a place that actually can be considered enduro or downhill. That said, I am a believer of you cannot have too much braking power. Running 203 mm rotors front and rear now. I wish I could run larger.

  12. #12
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    Quote Originally Posted by DethWshBkr View Post
    Heck, if you want to actually do SLX, look in the classifieds, I have my SLX's, 180 rotors and adaptors in there. 60 miles.

    I replaced them with Hope E4 (4 piston) front, and X2 (2 piston) rear brakes. You can do a set of them for less than $375, no rotors.

    Don't neglect the importance of rotor size. When I got my 29er, I was disappointed in the SLX brakes. Reason? I was coming off a 26" wheel bike with 180mm rotors. When I jumped on the 29" wheel with 180mm rotors, the rotor was effectivly reduced in size to a 160mm, and I noticed the lack of stopping power. I jumped to 203mm rotors, and was very happy with the power of the SLX brakes then. Unfortunately, the levers were too short with the newly installed X0 grip shifts.

    I only do XC type riding. I don't think I've ever been to a place that actually can be considered enduro or downhill. That said, I am a believer of you cannot have too much braking power. Running 203 mm rotors front and rear now. I wish I could run larger.
    Wow, thanks! good advice I wouldn't have inheritantly concidered. I have a 27.5 Heckler, and am going with 180s for the rear, I think I should go with 180s for the front also (203 seems like too much?)

  13. #13
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    I am 235lbs 180mm in front and 160mm rear formula r1s brakes.

    Never think about more brake power. Try the smaller ones first before you go 203mm rotor.
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  14. #14
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    Too much? How? how can you honestly have too much?

    Seriously, think about it.

    A larger rotor, if anything, will allow less force on the brake levers as being needed for the same amount of braking power at the wheel.

    I would not hesitate to jump 203mm rotors on BOTH wheels (front being more important)
    What is the reason NOT to? Weight? I reject that philosophy if thats the case.
    It is far more important for your front wheel to be the strong one. Over 70% of your braking force is done on the front wheel. "Upsizing" the rear without doing the front is a waste. If you jump ANYTHING, jump the front.
    Again, I went to 4 piston brakes in the front, and two pistion in the rear. The reason was because the rear is not as critical, and as long as I can lock it up, it's OK. Front, I want power, modulation, and most importantly - NOT having to death grip the lever to bring that bike to a stop. Larger rotors are the absolute most effective way to increase braking power.
    Rotors are cheap too. You can get a Hayes V-cut rotor and an adaptor for your bike in any rotor size for 35 bucks.


    I am 205 lb, 6' but I can tell you, my '08 Fuel EX9 (26") with Avid Juicy 7's and 180mm rotors is far superior in stopping power than my '14 Fuel EX8 29er with 180mm rotors and SLX brakes. Wheel size and rotor size.

  15. #15
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    1. Can you lock your wheel with the smaller rotor?

    2. Do you experience brake fade due to overheating?

    If you answered 1. yes and 2. no, You don't need bigger rotors

    Larger rotors damage easier in a crash.

    Just read the original post. Yes for downhill the larger rotor will probably be better.
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  16. #16
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    The OP is intending however to spend 300 bucks on a "brake upgrade".

    I maintain you can upgrade ANY brake by increasing rotor size. Best 35 bucks you can spend, XC, DH, or any other riding.

  17. #17
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    I'm ganna upgrade the fronts also, I ended up going with Saints in the Rear with Shimano Ice Technologies SM-RT86 V2 6-Bolt Rotor - 180mm

    I am contemplating using a different set up front lol... And then if the rotor size needs to increase do that second...

    I'm either thinking hope's or SLX, which I could get a full set from the classifieds here for like 200...

  18. #18
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    Ugh everything but the 180mm shimano adapter came in... Gotta wait till wed for that

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