Brake align problem- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Brake align problem

    Last week, after having a few problems with my new Elixir CR (front) rubbing, I tried aligning the caliper by eye. It worked great eventually but was pretty fiddly and I noticed that it's at the maximum position [left] away from the wheel it can possibly be (as in the bolts are pushing right up against one side of the mounting holes in the caliper).

    After noticing it was rubbing again after travelling without the wheel on, and after reading the "centralise your caliper" thread, I tried nudging the back of the pads while pumping the brakes. While it seemed to start working, I noticed that the left pad was much more retracted than the right. Then I realised the center of the top of the caliper was to the right of the disc, while the bottom was fairly well centered. As I said before, the caliper can't be moved any further left. When I took the caliper off, I saw that the mounting post (correct terminology?) is closer to the disc at the top than the bottom.
    (see photo)

    The size of the caliper mounting holes should be enough to overcome the problem of not being parallel, but only if I can increase the distance between the mounting post and the disc.

    I see two possible solutions:
    1 - getting the mounting post ground down at the top left.
    2 - getting the disc mounted closer to the middle of the wheel - this might be a problem with the 6-bolt-to-centrelock adapter?

    Advice?

    Cheers in advance, Ian
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Brake align problem-dsc_5778.jpg  


  2. #2
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    Have the mounting tabs...

    faced. Take it into a shop that you know does good work and have them face the tabs. Show them the problem, what they will do is set up the facting tool to index off of the lower tab and then face the upper tab to match it's width. Once the tabs are matched, square, flat, and concentric to one another, then it becomes much easier to set up the brakes. In your case, since the caliper is already as far to the left, or as far outboard as you can get it, they will likely put a shim or two between the adapter and the tabs to move the caliper inboard a bit. This is a common practice with calipers and rotors when they need to be moved and not detrimental to the brakes in any way.

    Good Dirt
    "I do whatever my Rice Cripsies tell me to!"

  3. #3
    ...idios...
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    Squash said it all, as per usual, I'm just posting to take my hat off to you for the best descriptive photo I've ever seen in a "need advice" thread. Nice one!

    What use is a philosopher who doesn't hurt anybody's feelings? -
    Diogenes


  4. #4
    bt
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    are you fully in the dropouts?

  5. #5
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    Thanks! Facing is the answer. I'd read about it before and couldn't remember the term. That's what I meant by getting the mounting tabs 'ground' yes? They basically grind them until they are parallel with the disc?

    bt - can you explain? Do you mean is my wheel clamped low on one side? I had wondered about this myself but have been having this problem each time I take the wheel off and put it on, and I can't find anything which would be stopping it.

    SteveUK - cheers, I just didn't want people to be like "what the f are you on about Ian??"

  6. #6
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    This thread could have been written by me! Exactly the same problem I have had, particularly after a journey in car where the front wheel was out (but no load on the forks in any way).

    The fork in your photo looks like it might be a Fox the same as mine (on a Cube Reaction), so wondering if there's even more common ground with my problem and it's something to do with the fork as well as the caliper.

    Thanks to the other posters replies , stuff for me to try.

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