Bleed Shimano M575 with Mity Vac- Mtbr.com
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  1. #1
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    Bleed Shimano M575 with Mity Vac

    I just used my Mity Vac vacuum pressure tool to bleed my Shimano 575 brakes. Used the funnel screwed in at the lever, full of fluid, then got vacuum up to 7 psi and opened bleed screw, small little air bubbles and a few big burps flew out-just keep the oil full in the funnel.Name:  mity.jpg
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  2. #2
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    Nice, how did you connect the funnel to the bleed port at the brake lever if you don't mind me asking? How well is the entire unit sealed? I once tried with a small battery operated hand vacuum bag sealer thing, but air leaked from various connecting locations - it was quicker and easier to just use gravity.

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    Bleed Shimano M575 with Mity Vac

    He means the shimano specific funnel. http://www.jensonusa.com/Shimano-Dis...-FunnelStopper

  4. #4
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    Yes, elborikua has it correct, funnel at top, keep it full of fluid, mity vac at bleed nipple, for some physical reason the air comes out from the bottom with the vacuum. The Mity Vac costs $40 up here in Canada roughly, if it's cheaper than that it's pretty useful for other uses. Mostly, for me yesterday, was just way quicker. I don't like my M575's, I don't think they have enough fluid/reservoir/master cylinder going on, so they always need fluid and get weak a lot.

  5. #5
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    How does the funnel / bleed port work? Pardon my ignorance on this but I’ve never used the bleed port, as I open the cap and add oil, let it overflow a little to somewhat ensure the reservoir air free… So you fill the funnel with oil while it’s still detached, then attach the funnel to the port, open the bleed port, let the negative vacuum that’s been built up as the pads wear, suck oil in? In other words, these funnels allow you to add oil without introducing air into the system during oil add process?

  6. #6
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    I just use a 100cc syringe and pull the vacuum at the bleed port that way. Usually takes a bit of strength to do it, but it is cheap. I pull 1-2 funnels worth of fluid back through until the bubbles completely stop.

  7. #7
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    Yes, Hatake, that's correct. Remember, the BR M-575 line of Shimano brakes doesn't have a large "master cylinder" for holding the brake fluid in at the lever. So, there isn't much fluid, mostly in the line, it heats up and you have to bleed this model of brake a lot. The syringe way is totally related to the Mity Vac method dgrolem, and is much different than the manual suggests. Remember, these are amongst the lowest rated/reviewed brakes on this site, mostly because it's difficult to keep them running consistently strong, they need a lot of care.

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    Agreed, after a season, used-to-be pink oil is usually totally colorless. Good suggestions, I'll have to try it. Thanks guys.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by hollywoodcrash View Post
    Remember, the BR M-575 line of Shimano brakes doesn't have a large "master cylinder" for holding the brake fluid in at the lever. So, there isn't much fluid, mostly in the line, it heats up and you have to bleed this model of brake a lot.
    I think what you mean by "master cylinder" is actually the master cylinder reservoir. Quantity of fluid or heat has nothing to do with the frequency that you should have to bleed a brake. All brakes experience heat to varying levels. It’s a byproduct of energy exchange. The reason we have a need to bleed the brake is nothing more than air being introduced in the system. Heat causes the air to expand and the result is an increased ‘sponginess’ at the lever. Shimano’s require bleeding perhaps less than any other OEM brake around.


    Quote Originally Posted by hollywoodcrash View Post
    Remember, these are amongst the lowest rated/reviewed brakes on this site, mostly because it's difficult to keep them running consistently strong, they need a lot of care.
    WTF? Where did you get these are the lowest rated or reviewed brakes around? You must be confusing these with Avid Elixers. The Shimano brakes clearly are some of the best rated amongst brakes in terms on maintainability and function. All of the Shimano hydraulic brakes are the easiest to maintain and bleed and require the least amount of care. Especially when compared to Avids. WTF again…over?
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  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Cleared2land View Post
    I think what you mean by "master cylinder" is actually the master cylinder reservoir. Quantity of fluid or heat has nothing to do with the frequency that you should have to bleed a brake. All brakes experience heat to varying levels. It’s a byproduct of energy exchange. The reason we have a need to bleed the brake is nothing more than air being introduced in the system. Heat causes the air to expand and the result is an increased ‘sponginess’ at the lever. Shimano’s require bleeding perhaps less than any other OEM brake around.




    WTF? Where did you get these are the lowest rated or reviewed brakes around? You must be confusing these with Avid Elixers. The Shimano brakes clearly are some of the best rated amongst brakes in terms on maintainability and function. All of the Shimano hydraulic brakes are the easiest to maintain and bleed and require the least amount of care. Especially when compared to Avids. WTF again…over?
    LOL pretty much sums up what I was thinking
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