BB7 to TRP Spyres results in poor braking. Pads?- Mtbr.com
Results 1 to 15 of 15
  1. #1
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    41

    New question here. BB7 to TRP Spyres results in poor braking. Pads?

    I have a recumbent and an Montague Folder. The Montague came with terrible components especially the brakes. I built my recumbent with BB7s that were great on my loaded tours. I decided to upgrade the Montague to disks using the BB7's, and buy TRP Spyres for the Recumbent. (I like the double sided TRP design) The Spyres do not stop my bike nearly as well as the BB7s, yet all the loaded tour bikes I ride with have Spyres, and they stop these 100lb riggs just fine.

    I read somewhere, that bulk eBay sellers, (my purchase) sometimes remove the quality stock pads on Spyres, replace them with cheap ones, and sell the originals separately. True or not, the suggestion is weak pads. Could a pad change improve the braking? If so, suggestions?

  2. #2
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Sep 2017
    Posts
    40
    Have you bedded in the pads? I would clean the rotors with isopropyl alcohol.

  3. #3
    B A N N E D
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    5,122
    What brake levers are you using with the Spyres?

  4. #4
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Lone Rager's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    7,513
    ^^^ Yeah. Lever pull is significant consideration. I believe Spyres are for use with road levers. If you use Spyres with long-pull (V brake) levers, they'll be pretty weak. TRP Spyke calipers are designed for use with long-pull levers, like their Spyke specific lever set.
    Do the math.

  5. #5
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    41
    I'm using Avid speed Dial levers. I have a couple hundred miles on the brakes so shouldn't the pads be bedded in?

  6. #6
    Wanna ride bikes?
    Reputation: *OneSpeed*'s Avatar
    Join Date
    Oct 2013
    Posts
    7,096
    Quote Originally Posted by CalypsoArt View Post
    I'm using Avid speed Dial levers. I have a couple hundred miles on the brakes so shouldn't the pads be bedded in?
    Not if you've never got them good and hot. Have you done any repeated hard stops down a long hill to get them really heated up?

    Yes, it could also be the pad compound.
    Rigid SS 29er
    SS 29+
    Fat Lefty
    SS cyclocross
    Full Sus 29er (Yuck)

    Stop asking how much it weighs and just go ride it.

  7. #7
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    883
    I use the TRP "Spyke" with compressionless housing and XT Long-pull levers. They modulate almost as good as my XT hydraulic brakes and stop all the same. In the cold, they don't lose power.

    The difference from the Spyres to the Spykes is the spring weight that pushes the pads. The Road calipers do not have the heavier spring the Spykes have. Hence why the Spyre is listed as "Road".
    Goodbye '95 ZJ. Just so you know, transfering box of left behind womens panties to next truck. Thank you ZJ!

  8. #8
    B A N N E D
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    5,122
    Quote Originally Posted by pdxmark View Post
    The difference from the Spyres to the Spykes is the spring weight that pushes the pads. The Road calipers do not have the heavier spring the Spykes have.
    That doesn't sound right, where did you hear this?
    A mountain lever pulls about twice as much cable as a road lever.

    Without pulling a Spyke or Spyre apart, I'd think that the difference between the two would be similar to a BB7 Mountain and a BB7 Road, they have different ramp sizes for the ball bearings on the drive cams.

    BB7 drive cams....
    BB7 to TRP Spyres results in poor braking. Pads?-p4pb11876177.jpg

    Spyre drive cams....
    BB7 to TRP Spyres results in poor braking. Pads?-image.jpg
    Last edited by cobba; 11-07-2017 at 05:16 AM.

  9. #9
    B A N N E D
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    5,122
    Quote Originally Posted by CalypsoArt View Post
    I'm using Avid speed Dial levers.
    Spyke's would of matched those levers better.

    Speed dial levers are a v-brake/linear brake lever that pull about 37 to 42mm of cable.
    V-brake/linear brake levers pull around 40mm of cable.
    Cantilever/road levers pull around 20mm of cable.

    Spyres are meant to be used with cantilever/road levers
    Spykes are meant to used with v-brake/linear brake levers
    Last edited by cobba; 11-07-2017 at 05:31 PM.

  10. #10
    WillWorkForTrail
    Reputation: Cotharyus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    4,674
    Sounds like a lever problem. You should use Spykes with the Speed Dials. I have Spyres on my GT Rogue with Shimano 105 Brifters and with the 160mm rotors they do just fine. You might try some shimano pads in them (that's what they're compatible with) but I suspect you'll have more luck combining the correct lever with the correct brake.

  11. #11
    mtbr member
    Reputation: Redlands R&C's Avatar
    Join Date
    Dec 2013
    Posts
    842
    I run the SPYRES on my Jones Plus towing my girl on the trails in her modified WeeHoo. More than enough power, a little squishy only because I didn't use compressionless housing

    I chose the spyres specifically so I could run my vintage cantilever brake levers, Ritchey Logics, XT M730/733 and similar.

    Spykes definitely would have been the better bet given your configuration, but thankfully you are only a brake lever swap away, and many flat bar brake levers are available cheap for canti/road pull
    Last edited by Redlands R&C; 11-07-2017 at 08:53 PM. Reason: forgot some key words

  12. #12
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Posts
    883
    We don't even know this users full brake component layout and we are trying to figure out his issue. Not going to be easy!

    Things we need to know in order to provide a remedy:
    1) Calipers: Which were stated as TRP Spyres
    2) Levers: Which were stated as Avid SD-5's
    3) Pad Material: Not stated
    4) Cable Housing: Not stated
    5) Cable choice: Not stated

    Of these five component areas, one being the most important with mechanical cable brakes is the "compressionless housing". Without that, cantilever, V-brakes and mechanical disk brakes do not feel good at all. --I know this from experience as I once bought the "Jagwire sport brake kit" for the BB7/SD5 combo and for a few weeks didn't have a clue as to why it felt like I was grabbing sponges, until my LBS mech told me. Then there was pre-Vbrake housing, don't get me started...-- Once I traded out for compressionless, the difference was night and day.

    If you cut compressionless housing yourself, be sure to file down each end of the cable housing to flush so strands of the compressionless housing don't fold against the inside of the ferule causing drag/resistance.

    To end; as far as cable goes, just buy the polished, pre-stretched Stainless Steel. I typically run the cable through grease on my gloves as I feed it into the cable housing.
    Goodbye '95 ZJ. Just so you know, transfering box of left behind womens panties to next truck. Thank you ZJ!

  13. #13
    mtbr member
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Nov 2009
    Posts
    41
    My brake housing is the aluminum Alligator iLink.
    Alligator I Link: Cables & Housing | eBay

    and the cables are Jagwire Pro Teflon Slick Stainless. https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...?ie=UTF8&psc=1

    The system of Speed Dial 7s, Jagwire Pro, iLink & BB7 calipers worked great. The only change was the TRP Spyres. The Speed Dial 7s were recommended for the Spyres, and several manufacturers spec the two. The levers are adjusted for the pull. Again, I'm wondering if it could be the pads. I guess I'll take them out and see. Any recommendations on quality quiet replacements?

  14. #14
    B A N N E D
    Reputation:
    Join Date
    Apr 2007
    Posts
    5,122
    Quote Originally Posted by CalypsoArt View Post
    The Speed Dial 7s were recommended for the Spyres, and several manufacturers spec the two.
    By who and which?

    The Spyke would be a better match with those levers as it's a long pull brake.

    The levers are adjusted for the pull.
    Even at minimum cable pull (about 37mm), the speed dial lever will pull nearly twice as much cable as a canti/road lever (about 20mm).

    Brake specs...
    Long pull lever: https://www.trpcycling.com/product/spyke/
    Road lever: https://www.trpcycling.com/product/spyre/

  15. #15
    WillWorkForTrail
    Reputation: Cotharyus's Avatar
    Join Date
    Jun 2012
    Posts
    4,674
    Quote Originally Posted by CalypsoArt View Post
    Again, I'm wondering if it could be the pads. I guess I'll take them out and see. Any recommendations on quality quiet replacements?
    Like I said in my first post, they're compatible with Shimano pads. Pretty much any Shimano pad should be reasonable quality.

Similar Threads

  1. Spyres & BB7s with Altus brake/shifters?
    By CalypsoArt in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 2
    Last Post: 11-20-2016, 09:24 AM
  2. Replies: 6
    Last Post: 10-02-2015, 08:54 AM
  3. TRP Spyre mechanicals or TRP HyRd for Salsa Fargo
    By sgtrobo in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 10
    Last Post: 08-30-2015, 07:19 PM
  4. SR Suntour - Poor product, poor service even with higher end forks
    By chrisaz82 in forum Shocks and Suspension
    Replies: 15
    Last Post: 10-23-2012, 03:33 PM
  5. BB7 pads off the braking track ??
    By AshKa in forum Brake Time
    Replies: 9
    Last Post: 12-30-2011, 09:14 AM

Members who have read this thread: 5

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •  

THE SITE

ABOUT MTBR

VISIT US AT

© Copyright 2020 VerticalScope Inc. All rights reserved.